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Thanks, I'll definitely try it the next time I spray.
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Dec 5, 2013 06:35
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| # ? May 30, 2024 01:13 |
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Anyone know of good companies that make motorcycle models aside from Hasegawa and Tamiya? I'm not really sure whether I want to do old GP bikes or just street bikes, but I don't really know where to start looking either.
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Dec 5, 2013 20:12
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Question, I should try to wash the sprues before base coating them right? I recall reading something about doing that before really starting to work on the model.
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Dec 5, 2013 23:46
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Probably, it really depends on how they were produced. Most kits don't have any noticeable residue, but I had one ICM kit that was nearly dripping with some kind of lubricant.
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Dec 5, 2013 23:59
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Ensign Expendable posted:Probably, it really depends on how they were produced. Most kits don't have any noticeable residue, but I had one ICM kit that was nearly dripping with some kind of lubricant. Ah ok, I don't think it will be that much of an issue with the Hobby Boss A-10 that I wanna start working on but I wanted to be on the safe side and check.
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Dec 6, 2013 01:39
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Cooked Auto posted:Question, I should try to wash the sprues before base coating them right? I recall reading something about doing that before really starting to work on the model. Yes you should, as Ensign pointed out some of them may have leftover mold release lubricant on them but also to get rid of any dust, dirt or grime that will interfere with your base coat.
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Dec 6, 2013 04:54
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Some people wash the parts before they assemble, and some wash the finished model (or finished substructures). Most glues you'd use on a typical model aren't affected by water, so you can soak an entire model in a little soapy water, let it sit for a while, then drain it and let it air dry. If you go that route, just make sure there aren't any pockets of water trapped in certain areas of the model.
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Dec 6, 2013 06:29
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Morgenthau posted:Yes you should, as Ensign pointed out some of them may have leftover mold release lubricant on them but also to get rid of any dust, dirt or grime that will interfere with your base coat. Although in this case all sprues are still packed in plastic bags but I'm just gonna do it way mentioned by Bloody Hedgehog to be safe.
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Dec 6, 2013 11:00
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TANKS    This is the "Academy" PzIV Ausf H with Armor. The last part is kind of silly, since all tanks have armour. In this case it refers to the skirt armour armour the turret and on the hull sides. Which is kind of unnecessary, since all PzIV Ausf H tanks came with that. I say "Academy", because as soon as you look at the sprues, it's clearly a Tamiya product. There is a battery compartment just like on my Tamiya PzII Ausf F, except the hull doesn't snap closed as nicely. The rubber Tamiya tracks are there as well. Remember how I complained about Dragon cheapening out on in-turret detail? Academy beat them out, since you only have the gun breech and case catcher inside. Not even chairs for the crew, which means you can't put the kit together with the turret doors open. That's a shame, since it would allow you to show off the detail inside the tank. The doors in the extra turret armour don't open anyway, so you wouldn't be able to show it off too well, since the turret armour comes in only three pieces (left, right, and back arc). The side panels come in one piece each, even though the box shows a section missing from both sides. The turret appears to be too big for the turret ring. I managed to get it in there by filing off the little tabs, but it's stuck in so tightly, it can't rotate. Aside from those minor complaints, it's a pretty solid kit, especially for under twenty bucks. Comes with the standard accessories, lots and lots of spare track links (not enough to replace the rubber ones, sadly), and a creman. Not the one in the picture (that one is from a Tamiya German tank crew kit), since the one in the box is posed in a pretty boring way. There's an interesting feature that I've never seen before: the hull MG can move. It's a nice touch, though, ultimately, it doesn't add much.
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Dec 11, 2013 04:20
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Acadamy has always been about re-boxing other companies models with modern touches added. Usually this means engraved panel lines, new decals, etc.
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Dec 11, 2013 05:23
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I wonder what they added this time, because it wasn't the decals, for sure. I hope it wasn't the three helmets and two gas cans with no caps on them. The Academy Stuart looks much nicer, the inside of the turret is fully detailed, and there is a huge choice of decals, plus plastic tracks.
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Dec 11, 2013 05:33
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Nice tank, as always. I'm making a 1/72 German something right now with a similar color scheme.
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Dec 11, 2013 12:50
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Hey guys, Had a look through this thread and there's some incredible talent here. I've done modelling for several years but only on a casual basis really. You've inspired me to drag some of my older kits out and I've started slowly piecing together my Revel Type XXI U-2540. It's a 1:144 scale u-boat and measures about 21" bow to stern. Pictures show it mocked together, parts are glued but not the hull and deck. I'm trying to figure out a way to securely tie it or clamp it together before gluing as the kit needs a little playing with and it's awkward as hell to position. The fore dive planes in particular were a bitch and the instructions are vague suggestions where it comes to those. I managed to get them positioned well between the two sides of the hull and glued one edge only, they work okay, as you can sort of see in the shots, I moved position once. Sorry for the lighting; black primer, dim room, phone cam. I'll get better ones as I progress if there`s any interest. Any advice welcome with anyone who has experience with this kit or spots mistakes!    
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Dec 15, 2013 18:02
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Meltdown321 posted:Pictures show it mocked together, parts are glued but not the hull and deck. I'm trying to figure out a way to securely tie it or clamp it together before gluing as the kit needs a little playing with and it's awkward as hell to position. Any way you can start gluing at one end and do a little at a time, rather than doing it all at once? That might help. Couple of 1/72nd planes; Gloster Gladiator and AR-2. Just finished the Gladiator, did the AR-2 a while back but never posted.   The brown on the Gladiator isn't right but my nearest decent model shop is now about 60 miles away so gently caress it. I need to find out if anyone sells Revell acrylics mail order.
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Dec 15, 2013 22:39
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Unkempt posted:The brown on the Gladiator isn't right but my nearest decent model shop is now about 60 miles away so gently caress it.
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Dec 15, 2013 22:49
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quote:Any way you can start gluing at one end and do a little at a time, rather than doing it all at once? That might help. quote:The brown on the Gladiator isn't right but my nearest decent model shop is now about 60 miles away so gently caress it. I need to find out if anyone sells Revell acrylics mail order.
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Dec 16, 2013 00:09
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that sub looks like the ideal candidate for Tamiya's super-thin cement. Just line it up the way you want, elastic or clamp it, and touch the brush to the seams. Capilary action will pull the cement into the seams and Robert is your mother's brother.
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Dec 16, 2013 01:21
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Yeah, I'm using some Humbrol poly cement which will work the same way. It`s all elasticated together at the moment and I'll glue it sections at a time.
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Dec 16, 2013 12:47
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Meltdown321 posted:
Well I was in the UK but I then went mental and moved to the US where Revell Aqua paints are apparently non-existant. My nearest shop doesn't sell any acrylic at all, just enamel, and I remember faffing about with that in my youth and don't want to go back. Can anyone recommend some decent acrylic paints that are available in the US?
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Dec 16, 2013 15:13
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Unkempt posted:Well I was in the UK but I then went mental and moved to the US where Revell Aqua paints are apparently non-existant. My nearest shop doesn't sell any acrylic at all, just enamel, and I remember faffing about with that in my youth and don't want to go back. Can anyone recommend some decent acrylic paints that are available in the US? Vallejo model color if you don't mind paying through the nose for it. Pretty sure testors makes acrylics too, and they tend to be more available than vallejo, if not cheaper.
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Dec 16, 2013 15:51
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Is there any sort of guideline for prices to pay/charge for building and painting models? Ideally I'm trying to find out what to charge separately for building and painting (to a reasonable 'shelf' standard). I know with wargaming models charging retail price to paint already built models to a basic standard is about where the fees to paint start, but I have no idea what to ask for painting and/or assembling scale models. I'm in the UK, if that matters.
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Dec 16, 2013 19:35
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Honestly, not really. Very few people do it other than on commission, so prices are hugely variable - and most people would probably not expect to pay what would actually be a normal living wage for the painter - the fastest I can finish a mini (admittedly I'm a slow painter) to decent tabletop standard is about 3 hours, which increases in speed for batch work, so to make the sort of wage I'm making at the moment I'd probably need to charge about £30 a pop, which is way over the odds. Eye of Error has a price guide for what a good commission painter might charge:http://eyeoferror.blogspot.co.uk/p/eye-of-error-commission-painting.html
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Dec 16, 2013 20:33
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Unkempt posted:Well I was in the UK but I then went mental and moved to the US where Revell Aqua paints are apparently non-existant. My nearest shop doesn't sell any acrylic at all, just enamel, and I remember faffing about with that in my youth and don't want to go back. Can anyone recommend some decent acrylic paints that are available in the US? Tamiya is all over the place anywhere I've bothered to check.
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Dec 16, 2013 21:17
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Unkempt posted:Well I was in the UK but I then went mental and moved to the US where Revell Aqua paints are apparently non-existant. My nearest shop doesn't sell any acrylic at all, just enamel, and I remember faffing about with that in my youth and don't want to go back. Can anyone recommend some decent acrylic paints that are available in the US? Vallejo, Tamiya, Golden, and Liquitex are usually my go-to paints. If I want some cheaper paints when I need larger quantities, I usually go with Apple Barrel/Folk Art/Delta Ceramcoat (basically the same paint from the same manufacturer).
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Dec 16, 2013 21:18
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Vallejo, Tamiya, Golden, and Liquitex are usually my go-to paints. If I want some cheaper paints when I need larger quantities, I usually go with Apple Barrel/Folk Art/Delta Ceramcoat (basically the same paint from the same manufacturer). Ah, I actually bought some Folk Art stuff recently from a 'Michael's' but haven't had a chance to try it yet. If that works it'll be handy as it's only about 10 miles away. And cheap. Tamiya - I didn't actually know they made acrylics. Next time I'm at the 60-miles-away shop I'll see what they've got. I bought some 'Polly Scale' last time I was there which is OK but meant for model railways, so it's all "Weyerhauser Green" and stuff which means nothing to me.
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Dec 16, 2013 23:46
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Tamiya (and to a lesser extent Vallejo) acrylics are my standards really. With Tamiya, beware the code system; X is gloss finish and XF is matt.
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Dec 17, 2013 00:59
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Also be aware with Tamiya that their "acrylics" are made in different formulations in different countries. Their standard acrylic is an acrylic with some lacquer in it. I'm not sure, but I believe that they formulated it that way to promote adhesion and drying in more humid countries in the asian region. Much of the Tamiya stock found in the US though is this formula with lacquer in it. In other countries that have stricter laws on the import of harsh chemicals, or individual states like california, their acrylics are a true water-based acrylic. The main problem with this is unless a shop has specifically labelled their product, sometimes it can be impossible to tell which one you're getting. Always test out Tamiya paints first if you plan to mix them with another brand.
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Dec 17, 2013 01:31
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Just made myself an applicator to apply the glue with moderate success. Saved me a few quid.
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Dec 17, 2013 18:10
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Meltdown321 posted:Just made myself an applicator to apply the glue with moderate success. Saved me a few quid. Is it similar to the Touch-'N-Flow? Seriously, everyone get a Touch-'N-Flow applicator. Best modeling tool I've ever bought.
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Dec 17, 2013 22:32
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Is it similar to the Touch-'N-Flow? Yeah, very similar. I used a biro, cleaned it out, merged it with an old revell contacta glue nozzle and it works. Looks horrible but functions fine. Edit: More shots but little more to see. I reinforced and fiddled the mock up to where I wanted it with masking tape and elastic bands and glued it in situ. These shots are taken with a proper camera but there's still poor lighting. I will try for some natural daylight shots. I assembled the body of the conning tower and the AA guns (which elevate and traverse), did some flatting and shaping of the hull to the deck (not much of that) and glued most the hull (still needs a bit of work on the deck at the stern). Conning tower is not fixed yet, just mocked up.     Meltdown321 fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Dec 18, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 23:57
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Is it similar to the Touch-'N-Flow? I bought one and my first use jammed it irreparably. (I used Tamiya glue and now it does not work.) Am I missing some sort of filling device? I also broke the nozzle on my airbrush by snapping the fitting on it - hopefully I didn't strip the threads. This is the second time I managed to do this... Also also, built a 1/350 submarine a little while ago. Revell's U-boat Mk. VII C. Good experience - this is the first time I built in the 'modern era', but also with failure. I bought some Canadian tire primer that didn't work well, and trying to get a flat finish did a lot to ruin the finish. My Vallejo flat finish just didn't get dull, and the old standby of Testors rattlecan dullcoat took the edge off of the detail. A good learning experience for (eventually) building my I-400, esecially in that you should always do rigging of line before painting.    
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Dec 18, 2013 01:05
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Nebakenezzer posted:I bought one and my first use jammed it irreparably. (I used Tamiya glue and now it does not work.) Am I missing some sort of filling device? Mine came with a syringe, which you attach to the end and use to draw up the glue. Which Tamiya glue did you use? If it was a thin, plastic-welding cement similar to Abroid/Tenax/Plast-i-Weld, then you can probably clear a clog. The only thing that can really clog it with those cements is the melted plastic being drawn up into the tip of the applicator. If you use a syringe to draw more cement up, it should remelt any plastic lodged in their and free it up. You can also use a dropper to add more cement in through the top, if the blockage is higher up and you can't draw cement through the tip. I've "clogged" mine numerous times, but simply forcing cement into the tip has helped clear things. If you used any other type of glue, then you may well and truly have destroyed it.
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Dec 18, 2013 06:06
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quote:I bought one and my first use jammed it irreparably. (I used Tamiya glue and now it does not work.) Am I missing some sort of filling device? quote:Also also, built a 1/350 submarine a little while ago. Revell's U-boat Mk. VII C. Good experience - this is the first time I built in the 'modern era', but also with failure. I bought some Canadian tire primer that didn't work well, and trying to get a flat finish did a lot to ruin the finish. My Vallejo flat finish just didn't get dull, and the old standby of Testors rattlecan dullcoat took the edge off of the detail. A good learning experience for (eventually) building my I-400, esecially in that you should always do rigging of line before painting. Good information, so thanks. I don't have a working airbrush so i'll hand brush it. I have no idea how that'll turn out as i'm not fantastically skilled. Detail may be lost but that's still a nice u-boat.
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Dec 18, 2013 15:21
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Might seem kind of gross or whatever, but I have a diabetic friend and got a huge bucket of used insulin syringes from them to use as glue applicators with Tamiya extra thin cement.
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Dec 20, 2013 05:35
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Meltdown321 posted:I cleared my blocked revell contacta nozzle by gripping it in pliers and burning the glue out on my cooker. It just flashes out and then you can run the tip under the tap to cool it again. Thanks. Hand brushing may be a good idea; I've read from certain online places that hand-brushing in this scale gives the color 'depth' (no submarine pun intended.) As always with that sort of painting, thinning your paint will be key.
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Dec 20, 2013 13:02
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SkunkDuster posted:Might seem kind of gross or whatever, but I have a diabetic friend and got a huge bucket of used insulin syringes from them to use as glue applicators with Tamiya extra thin cement. A lot of places you can buy new ones OTC. In VA you just have to sign your name at the pharmacy.
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Dec 20, 2013 17:01
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Have a seasonally correct mini diorama.  Tried sticking some figures into it, but I think it works better on its own.   The snow is made from baking soda. The tank is all the leftover parts from the Polish T-26 kit (from the 7TP variant). The track is from the SU-76 kit, and looks close enough to a T-26 track. I think it turned out pretty well for a first try.
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Dec 27, 2013 04:45
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Ensign Expendable posted:Have a seasonally correct mini diorama. Baking soda makes good snow. It's all soft and smudgy, even!
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Dec 27, 2013 16:30
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I sprayed over with flat sealer, it's keeping it from smudging.
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Dec 27, 2013 18:53
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| # ? May 30, 2024 01:13 |
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Any of you Scale goons know if there's a thread for Flames of War players somewhere? I've been meaning to get into the game and need help.
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Dec 29, 2013 11:16
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