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Motronic posted:This is the kind of thing you should ask in advance and in writing. Yep, I was thinking as I read your post "Hm, better call the office and check." I get the impression that they're willing to accept drywall as adequate 1-hour rating, since they only suggested I do the stucco when I said I didn't plan on finishing the interior. But why not clarify things. Thanks again for the advice!
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Jul 21, 2014 02:35
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A bit late, sorry. I built my garage with a bare interior, like you are planning. To get the 1-hour burn rating, I put up (on the outside); 5/8 plywood, then 5/8 sheetrock; then, T1-11, also 5/8. It's a thick-rear end wall, but it passed the code inspection. You could bypass a couple of steps & put up 3/4" fire-rated plywood(about $60/sheet!), then maybe T1-11 or Hardiebacker clapboard siding (which I used on all other walls). I had to use the fire-rated poo poo as my roof sheathing for the rear four feet of the roof run (because I built within 2' of the property line) Yes, I overbuild. I sheathed the roof in 3/4" plywood.
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Jul 21, 2014 02:43
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I have a hard time seeing how any AHJ could have a problem with that. Going better than minimum code is hardly overbuilding. But you far exceeded that. Good job. That's how I build for my own stuff.
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Jul 21, 2014 03:08
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 friend's place. every time i am over it's... magical going up these stairs
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Jul 21, 2014 06:21
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Jul 22, 2014 03:11
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Yummy, sewer gas into a vented soffit. I bet that attic is ripe.
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Jul 22, 2014 03:21
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OSI bean dip posted:
 Back steps to three different apartments, my sister's in-law's house, Beach Haven. NJ 1984
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Jul 22, 2014 03:47
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For the non-handy, can someone please explain to me what the deal with those staircases are?
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Jul 22, 2014 03:52
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Motronic posted:Yummy, sewer gas into a vented soffit. I bet that attic is ripe. It looks to me like A) there's no attic there, just the overhang of a piece of roof, and B) the vent was probably there before that addition was put there and they just extended the pipe upwards all the way through the new roof (to avoid having to move it).
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Jul 22, 2014 03:59
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Leperflesh posted:It looks to me like A) there's no attic there, just the overhang of a piece of roof, The "overhang of a piece of roof" (i.e. soffit) is what leads to the roof space, whether it's an attic or not. If it's a flat roof or cathedral ceiling it's still an obviously vented soffit, meaning it's designed to exchange air under the roofing materials so the singles don't cook off and keeps the space from turning into a moldy mess. Leperflesh posted:and B) the vent was probably there before that addition was put there and they just extended the pipe upwards all the way through the new roof (to avoid having to move it). While I'm sure that the vent was there before the addition was put on, it was not extended through the soffit in this photo nor should it be.
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Jul 22, 2014 04:12
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Leperflesh posted:It looks to me like A) there's no attic there, just the overhang of a piece of roof, and B) the vent was probably there before that addition was put there and they just extended the pipe upwards all the way through the new roof (to avoid having to move it). There is indeed no attic but a sewer vent under the roof overhang gave me pause.
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Jul 22, 2014 04:32
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(Workshop stuff again) I spoke with the building office, and apparently the rule they're applying is that any portion of a structure that comes within 5' of the property line has to be fire-rated. For my structure, that's just going to be the eaves and rakes, and from what they said, it should be sufficient to put some exterior drywall on the underside of those components. No need for interior drywall, so long as I run my electrical supply through conduits since exposed Romex is a no-no. Not that I'm trying to make a shoddy/underengineered building; I just want the first-pass to be as simple as is still safe so that I can actually get it done. It's easy enough to add interior drywall after the fact, but if I'm going to do that I'd want to go ahead and put in insulation as well (and maybe even run a water supply) before the drywall goes in. I just know, however, that by the time the structure's built, the shingles are on the roof, the siding's up, and the whole thing's painted, I'm going to need to take a break for at least a few months. As for exterior, I should look into that fire-rated plywood someone was talking about. Sounds like it wouldn't hurt to use that instead of plain plywood for my sheathing; just a question of how much it'll increase the cost.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:54
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Motronic posted:
I'm pretty sure the vent is supposed to extend a bit past the roof line. They should have put a pair of elbows on there to offset the vent and extended it past the addition's roof
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Jul 22, 2014 17:41
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Ooohkay we're talking about different pipes. I saw the big one going right through the soffit and (hidden from view) out the other side. You guys are talking about the much smaller pipe in the foreground that doesn't do that.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sounds like it wouldn't hurt to use that instead of plain plywood for my sheathing; just a question of how much it'll increase the cost. 3/4"x4'x8' fire rated plywood runs ~$60 each. In my experience using it as a backboard in IDFs, inspectors want to be able to see the fire rating stamp on every sheet. We sometimes put making tape over the stamp to make sure it doesn't get painted.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:06
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Leperflesh posted:Ooohkay we're talking about different pipes. I saw the big one going right through the soffit and (hidden from view) out the other side. You guys are talking about the much smaller pipe in the foreground that doesn't do that. I think we're talking about the same vent, but it seems you think it's something going into/through the soffit (which would be a hack job anyway). What I'm seeing is a vent that stops a few inches below the soffit. 
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Jul 22, 2014 18:20
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Huh. Perspective is a bit skewed there but it looks to me like it goes right through. The image has a lot of graininess so I can't quite tell for sure, now.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:28
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Leperflesh posted:Huh. Perspective is a bit skewed there but it looks to me like it goes right through. The image has a lot of graininess so I can't quite tell for sure, now. If it were cut through you'd see at least a darker bit around where they would have cut the hole, or hopefully some flashing at least, though given the quality of work I doubt they would have bothered.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:59
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CopperHound posted:3/4"x4'x8' fire rated plywood runs ~$60 each. In my experience using it as a backboard in IDFs, inspectors want to be able to see the fire rating stamp on every sheet. We sometimes put making tape over the stamp to make sure it doesn't get painted. Right, so on the order of $40 more per sheet than the non-fire-rated stuff, and I'd need about 25 sheets. Kinda pricey, but not totally out of the question. Good to know about the stamp. Since using fire-rated stuff isn't required in this situation, it probably won't be an issue, but might as well be careful just in case the inspector decides to make a fuss.
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Jul 22, 2014 19:08
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From the funny pictures thread:
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Jul 22, 2014 19:31
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So uh I just put a new roof onto a shed that has cinder blocks detaching from the mortar. Problems. Also it is made out of plywood road ads from the 70s.
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Jul 22, 2014 19:31
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Dick Trauma posted:From the funny pictures thread: I take it they got the mechanism from one of those motion activated sinks but didn't have the motion detector so wired it up to a lightswitch? If they wired it correctly it should be ok. Other than soaking wet hands fiddling with a light switch.
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Jul 22, 2014 19:33
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Baronjutter posted:I take it they got the mechanism from one of those motion activated sinks but didn't have the motion detector so wired it up to a lightswitch? If they wired it correctly it should be ok. Other than soaking wet hands fiddling with a light switch. Isn't the motion detector integral to the fixture? I don't see one there.
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Jul 22, 2014 19:36
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Neo Duckberg posted:Isn't the motion detector integral to the fixture? I don't see one there. Depends; sometimes it's in the sink wall instead. The ones where it's integral to the faucet tend to be really annoying because you have to hold your hands right below the faucet head to get water to flow; putting the sensor lower down makes washing your hands feel more natural (at least for me).
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Jul 22, 2014 19:43
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Baronjutter posted:I take it they got the mechanism from one of those motion activated sinks but didn't have the motion detector so wired it up to a lightswitch? If they wired it correctly it should be ok. Other than soaking wet hands fiddling with a light switch. And an apparent inability to change water temperature.
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Jul 22, 2014 19:47
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mind the walrus posted:For the non-handy, can someone please explain to me what the deal with those staircases are? For the first one, there are no balusters on the hand rail. Leaving aside the "sideways exit" danger, that makes for a bouncy hand rail. The second one has cleats, the little pieces of wood nailed into the stringers that are holding up each step. Most stairways are held up by the stringers, which have right angle cuts out of them that the stairs are directly nailed into. With that method, the stringers are directly supporting the weight. With cleats, the only thing holding up the stairs is the nails driven sideways into the stringer. Plus if you look closer, those cleats only appear to be 1x lumber.
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Jul 22, 2014 21:15
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Dick Trauma posted:From the funny pictures thread: The do this a lot of times in labs where they do blood and urine drug tests. Usually the switch is far enough from the sink that you can't switch it and use the sink at the same time, and the 'monitor' has to throw the switch for you. This way you can't use the sink to dilute your pee sample to get more time or rehydrate the dehydrated pee you bought off the internet.
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Jul 22, 2014 22:44
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Amykinz posted:The do this a lot of times in labs where they do blood and urine drug tests. Usually the switch is far enough from the sink that you can't switch it and use the sink at the same time, and the 'monitor' has to throw the switch for you. This way you can't use the sink to dilute your pee sample to get more time or rehydrate the dehydrated pee you bought off the internet. I forgot that was a thing in the states. God drat.
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Jul 22, 2014 22:57
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Baronjutter posted:I take it they got the mechanism from one of those motion activated sinks but didn't have the motion detector so wired it up to a lightswitch? If they wired it correctly it should be ok. Other than soaking wet hands fiddling with a light switch. My money is on one of those capacitive 'tap' faucets failing without being replaced, because why else would they specify not touching something that already has no handles?
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Jul 22, 2014 23:40
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Baronjutter posted:I take it they got the mechanism from one of those motion activated sinks but didn't have the motion detector so wired it up to a lightswitch? If they wired it correctly it should be ok. Other than soaking wet hands fiddling with a light switch. The solenoids in these run on batteries. Most I see are 4x "C" batteries. Not really an electrocution hazard.
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Jul 23, 2014 00:01
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kid sinister posted:For the first one, there are no balusters on the hand rail. Leaving aside the "sideways exit" danger, that makes for a bouncy hand rail. The second one has cleats, the little pieces of wood nailed into the stringers that are holding up each step. Most stairways are held up by the stringers, which have right angle cuts out of them that the stairs are directly nailed into. With that method, the stringers are directly supporting the weight. With cleats, the only thing holding up the stairs is the nails driven sideways into the stringer. Plus if you look closer, those cleats only appear to be 1x lumber. I should really post a picture of my crazy funhouse stairs from my deck. They're built the same way, except all the lovely lumber is warped so no step feels the same as the last. There's a brick holding up one end of the handrail and a porcupine of nails holding it to the deck. It was like this when we bought the house, and while it's crawling to the top of the priority list, other stuff needs to be addressed first.
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Jul 23, 2014 00:07
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Splizwarf posted:My money is on one of those capacitive 'tap' faucets failing without being replaced, because why else would they specify not touching something that already has no handles? So that shitheads don't twist and pull at the non-working faucet and break it off trying to make it work.
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Jul 23, 2014 01:46
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 I'm not entirely sure this is the place for it, but I'm wondering if any goons in this thread know how to go about getting government help or grants for fixing extremely out of code and potentially dangerous homes. My mother's house is falling the gently caress apart and while she can pay the mortgage, she can't pay for repairs; it really upsets me seeing the house she's had for 22 years slowly fall to bits around her.Our savings were completely wasted and we almost went bankrupt when I was younger- My father died after a series of lengthy hospital stays that lasted a year combined with battling alcoholism, his mother was diagnosed with cancer right after and lingered, passing away after two years and expensive therapy that cost her all of her money and most of ours, and then his father had a major stroke and we had to pay for him to be in and out of hospitals and dementia wards for about 2 years, until he finally died in his sleep. Shortly after that, she ended up paying for my short stay in a hospital and therapy after, because I decided it was too much and stupidly attempted suicide- something I still feel guilty that she ever had to pay for. This has left my mother with almost no savings, nothing to fall back on, and no way to fix the home she loves so much. She has no family of her own to turn to, because they disowned us when I was a child. Half of the house was built in the 1920s//1930s, and the other half was built by a dyslexic aviation engineer in the 1970s; it is probably out of code by at least a 'never was in code'. I KNOW some of the wires in the front part of the house are cloth wrapped, the foundation is sinking, the doorways are cracked...the windows are non-insulated and painted shut, so its impossible to clean them. The carpet is green shag, half the outlets and switches either don't work or are broken...the roof is leaking into the den, causing part of the ceiling to fall. The shingles under the roof tiles are wood, which is apparently a huge no no...there's an ancient breaker box in the garage with throwable switches that I could take some pictures of and there are actual loving fuse boxes, that are still in use, in the laundry room. The wall in the den has warped a bit from the water. The house even still has those porcelain, gas-fire heaters in the bathrooms, and a porcelain-log fireplace in the livingroom, and they still work. I've forced her to put gas and smoke detectors all over the house. I just wish she had the money to get it fixed. She works full time and she's 61 years old. She deserves better than what she has after everything she's been through.  She will NEVER have enough to rewire the whole house and fix the roof, though, so I was wondering if there were any sort of emergency grants for people in her type of situation. Any help would be appreciated- sorry for the E/N all over the thread. Continue with classy stories of broken houses, please. It's comforting to see other lovely homes, somehow.I just want my mama to be safe and happy- she's the only parent I have left. 
Freakbox fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jul 23, 2014 |
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Jul 23, 2014 03:39
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kid sinister posted:For the first one, there are no balusters on the hand rail. Leaving aside the "sideways exit" danger, that makes for a bouncy hand rail. The second one has cleats, the little pieces of wood nailed into the stringers that are holding up each step. Most stairways are held up by the stringers, which have right angle cuts out of them that the stairs are directly nailed into. With that method, the stringers are directly supporting the weight. With cleats, the only thing holding up the stairs is the nails driven sideways into the stringer. Plus if you look closer, those cleats only appear to be 1x lumber. I see both now. Awesome. Thank you so much.
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Jul 23, 2014 04:02
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kid sinister posted:For the first one, there are no balusters on the hand rail. Leaving aside the "sideways exit" danger, that makes for a bouncy hand rail. The second one has cleats, the little pieces of wood nailed into the stringers that are holding up each step. Most stairways are held up by the stringers, which have right angle cuts out of them that the stairs are directly nailed into. With that method, the stringers are directly supporting the weight. With cleats, the only thing holding up the stairs is the nails driven sideways into the stringer. Plus if you look closer, those cleats only appear to be 1x lumber. Also: not even remotely level. I mean, maybe having those stairs angled down away from the house keeps water from pooling up and freezing in the winter...but I bet they're real fun if you've been drinking. There's also that whole "I hope these stairs don't unbolt themselves from the house while I'm walking on them" thing.9 Freakbox posted:
There might still be some government programs that can help but I don't think any will cover "bringing it up to code." We were "save the bath water so you can flush the toilet with a bucket of used bathwater" poor and got a grant to install reusable plastic window insulation. I can't say for certain but I'd imagine we also received heating support as well. The new roof we needed still came out of pocket. We also got grants through our church though I don't recall the exact name at the moment. I think the name is Thrivent Financial these days. Your mother is almost old enough for the Rural Repair and Rehabilitation Loan and Grants program. There are probably others as well. You may be able to find local charitable organizations that could be of assistance. You might have luck talking to a local home/tenant advocacy organization. Although I doubt they'd be of direct financial assistance they may know about programs she would be eligible for or be able to orient you in the proper direction. If she's willing you might try seeing if she qualifies for other services like SNAP benefits to free up a little money for the most pressing concerns. Food shelves could help as well.
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Jul 23, 2014 05:52
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Time to take another stab at getting my workshop plans past the planning office. I feel pretty good about this set. And if nothing else, the process of making them (over and over again...this is something like my sixth draft, and third to go to the office) has been hugely educational.
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Jul 23, 2014 15:00
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Serious question from the guy who likes to DIY, but has little training, and just a moderate amount of experience. I see posters on here claiming that code is the minimum you should aim for, and I understand that, but I also fear that for the average guy, trying to exceed it may end up being worse. You may or may not know the reasoning behind that code. The more is better is not always the case, and many of us do not have a thorough understanding of stress, tension, shear, hot, neutral, etc. I feel that for those of us code is probably safer unless we have a trustworthy guide to hold our hand and explain why code says what is does. Anyone care to comment on that? Content:  I posted this a while back, now I own it and the house it was attached to. Made in japan of all places.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:07
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Mercury Ballistic posted:now I own it and the house it was attached to. Grats. I hope you have fire insurance.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:11
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CopperHound posted:Grats. I hope you have fire insurance. For a second there I thought your av was McGruff
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Jul 23, 2014 22:31
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PuTTY riot posted:For a second there I thought your av was McGruff I'm his cousin. "Hey kids take a bite out of copper theft. Report any tweakers with A/C condensers and wire in the back of their pickup." Oh on a related note: before the house I was buying closed, somebody stole all my circuit breakers. Had them replaced at sellers expense, but after close somebody came back and stole just the main breaker. If I knew better then I would have had the whole panel replaced. It is Zinsco brand. Not quite as bad as federal pacific, but I don't think the new breakers carry the UL mark. And in the summer time I learned what a HACR breaker is because they just put in a standard breaker in on my AC circuit. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jul 23, 2014 |
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Jul 23, 2014 22:37
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