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johnnyonetime posted:It looks like 80/20 but I can't find that exact profile on their website. Maybe the links below will get the wheels turning and you can find it I know my Grizzly bandsaw has a fence with the same profile and perpendicular t-nut channels for flipping it on its face to get a low-profile fence. The tall side of mine is more like 6", but it actually looks like it'd fit just the same. How long do you need it? You can order such a fence from Grizzly if nothing else (I'm sure you could find it cheaper, but that may be a start)  http://www.grizzly.com/products/Re-Saw-Fence-Attachment-For-21-24-Bandsaw/H7528 That one's only a couple feet long, though.
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Jul 29, 2014 20:06
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I did find the product, it's made by Felder and too expensive for me atm given other stuff I've sunk a lot of money into, so it's on hold for now, might just make my own version from wood instead. http://www.felder-tooling.co.uk/8he...-show-mwst=true
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Jul 30, 2014 07:00
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Wood should work. I'd be worried about being able to make a proper t-channel in wood that wouldn't fall apart, but you could very easily just get some aluminum t-channel and use that on a wood block, so your channel would be aluminum extrusion but the fence itself would be wood. Bonus: you can have whatever fence profile you like. Shouldn't cost much because aluminum t-channel is used EVERYWHERE and is pretty easily sourced.
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Jul 30, 2014 15:17
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I won't bother with a t-channel or stuff like that if I am building it myself. It'll be a lot simpler in design. My fence is already high enough so no need to for it to be able to have a high setting, all I really need is something I can slip over the fence to make a low fence for certain cuts and to get me more clearance when ripping, as well as making it a shorter fence for ripping. The fence on this saw is not really a short rip, but not a full length biesemeyer one either, it goes past the blades end a bit. I think for ripping long boards it'd be best if it ended in the middle of the blade.
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Jul 31, 2014 04:57
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Uhhhh, no? If it ended in the middle of the blade, then nothing behind the blade would have a guide. That may sound awesome when you start your cut, but when you have a few feet hanging off the back and only a few inches still on the fence, you'll wish you had more fence. My ideal fence is a little over twice the length of the piece I'm cutting with the blade right in the middle. That way the work piece is fully supported through the entire length of the cut and a little before and after, as well. And somehow it magically doesn't get in my way.
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Aug 1, 2014 16:17
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Those of you who don't sharpen your hand tools by hand, what do you recommend? I've been attempting to use a set of diamond plates to sharpen my chisels and plane irons, but can't seem to get a good consistent edge, even when I use a guide. I'm thinking about getting a bench grinder, but it seems they top out at around 150 grit for wheels. Do you get a good enough edge with that? Should I pony up the extra cash and get something like the WS 3000. If neither give really good results, I guess I'll suck it up and work on improving my hand sharpening technique.
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Aug 1, 2014 18:25
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Bad Munki posted:Uhhhh, no? If it ended in the middle of the blade, then nothing behind the blade would have a guide. That may sound awesome when you start your cut, but when you have a few feet hanging off the back and only a few inches still on the fence, you'll wish you had more fence. You know lots of americans seem to have this reaction and similar argument re: supporting the piece, while europeans think it works just fine.
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Aug 1, 2014 19:24
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His Divine Shadow posted:You know lots of americans seem to have this reaction and similar argument re: supporting the piece, while europeans think it works just fine. I've also seen a video of some dummy cross-cutting 2x4s on a tablesaw without any guide whatsoever, just freehanding it, one hand on each side of the blade holding the two halves of the work piece. She thought it worked fine, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. The goal is to keep the piece moving in a straight line, and when you deviate from that straight line, you spoil the cut or, worse, risk kickback. Not supporting the workpiece for the full travel of the cut seems like the best way to accomplish that deviation.
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Aug 1, 2014 21:16
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Zhundult posted:Those of you who don't sharpen your hand tools by hand, what do you recommend? I've been attempting to use a set of diamond plates to sharpen my chisels and plane irons, but can't seem to get a good consistent edge, even when I use a guide. I'm thinking about getting a bench grinder, but it seems they top out at around 150 grit for wheels. Do you get a good enough edge with that? Should I pony up the extra cash and get something like the WS 3000. If neither give really good results, I guess I'll suck it up and work on improving my hand sharpening technique. I wouldn't use a bench grinder for planes and chisels besides an initial reshaping of the bevel, if needed. Finer grit stones are for further polishing the bevel and putting on a micro-bevel if that's something you're in to. The worksharp would certainly be able to do that, but many people get along fine with diamond plates. Sounds like it's an issue with your technique. It took me a couple tries to get the hang of it on my water stones. Watch some videos on YouTube, especially ones that use the same guide. What kind of guide do you have?
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Aug 1, 2014 21:40
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Zhundult posted:Those of you who don't sharpen your hand tools by hand, what do you recommend? I've been attempting to use a set of diamond plates to sharpen my chisels and plane irons, but can't seem to get a good consistent edge, even when I use a guide. I'm thinking about getting a bench grinder, but it seems they top out at around 150 grit for wheels. Keep in mind is that "grit" means different things for different abrasives, so 150 grit wheel and 150 grit sandpaper may not be the same things. For example a 2k grit stone might be the same as 1k grit sandpaper. Also 150 grit in the US is not the same as 150 grit in Europe. I've never used a 150 grit wheel so I can't say whether it's good enough for bench chisels but would probably give you a good edge that you can hone. I do most of my sharpening by hand, sometimes with a guide; lathe chisels I sharpen on the grinder and sometimes on a drum sander for a keener edge. Best advice I can give on sharpening is don't overthink it. It's just an acquired skill that takes some practice but many people make it complicated both in their head and in practice. His Divine Shadow posted:You know lots of americans seem to have this reaction and similar argument re: supporting the piece, while europeans think it works just fine. People are skeptical about the unfamiliar. There are Americans who prefer a short fence but it's pretty uncommon here. I've tried it (my Unifence will slide forward and back) and while it worked just fine, it was disconcerting. Support behind the blade is too ingrained in me.
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Aug 1, 2014 22:03
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For me: I can think of a number of reasons to want the fence to continue on well past the blade, some of them pretty serious. I can't think of any reason to want it to stop mid-blade.
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Aug 1, 2014 22:51
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Zhundult posted:Those of you who don't sharpen your hand tools by hand, what do you recommend? I've been attempting to use a set of diamond plates to sharpen my chisels and plane irons, but can't seem to get a good consistent edge, even when I use a guide. I'm thinking about getting a bench grinder, but it seems they top out at around 150 grit for wheels. Do you get a good enough edge with that? Should I pony up the extra cash and get something like the WS 3000. If neither give really good results, I guess I'll suck it up and work on improving my hand sharpening technique. More practice with a freehand technique. I like Paul Sellers' approach, you can find the videos on youtube. For plane irons you need to be sure you're working on the heel as well as the edge. If you don't you'll end up with the heel contacting the wood instead of the edge, making it seem like a freshly sharpened iron isn't cutting at all or needs a really deep set to take a bite.
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Aug 1, 2014 22:55
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Zhundult posted:Those of you who don't sharpen your hand tools by hand, what do you recommend? I've been attempting to use a set of diamond plates to sharpen my chisels and plane irons, but can't seem to get a good consistent edge, even when I use a guide. I'm thinking about getting a bench grinder, but it seems they top out at around 150 grit for wheels. Do you get a good enough edge with that? Should I pony up the extra cash and get something like the WS 3000. If neither give really good results, I guess I'll suck it up and work on improving my hand sharpening technique. I got a WS3000 on sale. It won't do as nice an edge as a diamond plate, but I've found that it does just fine using the stock sandpapers included. I'm sure if I wanted to do something asinine like go to 10000 grit it'd be equivalent. I think the things I like best about it is that I can touch up a microbevel in 1 second, and that I can take a stock set of cheap Harbor chisels to something extremely useful and useable in about 3 minutes a chisel.
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Aug 1, 2014 22:58
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Elston Gunn posted:I wouldn't use a bench grinder for planes and chisels besides an initial reshaping of the bevel, if needed. Finer grit stones are for further polishing the bevel and putting on a micro-bevel if that's something you're in to. The worksharp would certainly be able to do that, but many people get along fine with diamond plates. Sounds like it's an issue with your technique. It took me a couple tries to get the hang of it on my water stones. Watch some videos on YouTube, especially ones that use the same guide. What kind of guide do you have? I got one of the Robert Larson guides. The problem I think I'm having with it is setting the chisel or plane iron at the correct length. I'll make several passes and when I check the bevel, I can see it putting on a different angle.
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Aug 2, 2014 00:05
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Cpt.Wacky posted:More practice with a freehand technique. I like Paul Sellers' approach, you can find the videos on youtube. For plane irons you need to be sure you're working on the heel as well as the edge. If you don't you'll end up with the heel contacting the wood instead of the edge, making it seem like a freshly sharpened iron isn't cutting at all or needs a really deep set to take a bite. Paul Sellers is the guy I have been watching videos of. He certainly makes sharpening with diamond plates by hand look simple. When I do it freehand, I find despite thinking I'm keeping the iron held at a steady angle, I'm putting a convex to it.
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Aug 2, 2014 00:08
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Zhundult posted:Paul Sellers is the guy I have been watching videos of. He certainly makes sharpening with diamond plates by hand look simple. When I do it freehand, I find despite thinking I'm keeping the iron held at a steady angle, I'm putting a convex to it. He never talks about holding it steady. He specifically talks about an adjustment through the stroke that gives a slight convex bevel. This one shows it pretty clearly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvTcReENk9g
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Aug 2, 2014 04:21
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Bad Munki posted:For me: I can think of a number of reasons to want the fence to continue on well past the blade, some of them pretty serious. I can't think of any reason to want it to stop mid-blade. Helps prevent kickback, no fence behind the blade, no pinching.
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Aug 2, 2014 05:26
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Bad Munki posted:I've also seen a video of some dummy cross-cutting 2x4s on a tablesaw without any guide whatsoever, just freehanding it, one hand on each side of the blade holding the two halves of the work piece. She thought it worked fine, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. Short rip fences have been in use for decades in the EU, mine lacks one because it's old as gently caress, and the concept is primarily lauded for being inherently safer over a full length fence. Guess the whole place is just a buncha dummies with bad safety thinking/features compared to american table saws. e: steve maskery explains the short rip fence https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Aug 2, 2014 |
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Aug 2, 2014 08:06
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wormil posted:Helps prevent kickback, no fence behind the blade, no pinching. Can't say I would want to use a short rip fence but that is exactly the reasoning I believe. The school I work at has a door with a large indent from just such a kickback.
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Aug 2, 2014 13:33
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Cpt.Wacky posted:He never talks about holding it steady. He specifically talks about an adjustment through the stroke that gives a slight convex bevel. This one shows it pretty clearly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvTcReENk9g Maybe I am sharpening it correctly then and my planing technique is what needs improvement.
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Aug 2, 2014 13:35
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Zhundult posted:Maybe I am sharpening it correctly then and my planing technique is what needs improvement. I didn't like planing at all till I realised that (1) I had the blade in upside down and (2) thin cuts as thin as you can get. I sight down the length of the sole and extend the blade just enough so you can start to see you bit of a shadow. If you are trying to take too big a bite, it's going to chatter and feel wrong.
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Aug 2, 2014 14:04
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Zhundult posted:Maybe I am sharpening it correctly then and my planing technique is what needs improvement. Like I said it's possible you aren't working the heel enough and it's making contact with the wood before the edge does. There are a lot of little tricks to tuning planes that aren't immediately obvious. Chris Schwarz has done some good videos and articles on it that might help too.
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Aug 2, 2014 23:26
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Like I said it's possible you aren't working the heel enough and it's making contact with the wood before the edge does. There are a lot of little tricks to tuning planes that aren't immediately obvious. Chris Schwarz has done some good videos and articles on it that might help too. Thanks. I'll keep at it and check out some more videos too.
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Aug 3, 2014 00:52
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I happened across a returned Bosch Colt at Lowes for $75 so I picked it up. Holy loving poo poo, why didn't someone tell me about this thing? This thing is awesome. My only wish is that the plunge base was a little bit smaller and cheaper on its own; not sure I want to drop $89 on a base.
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Aug 3, 2014 04:02
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Where can one find a decently priced and (most importantly) goddamn affordable rolling toolbox? Home depot has this and I've played with it, but the drawers are incredibly flimsy.
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Aug 7, 2014 05:31
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Anytime "affordable" is mentioned regarding tools, Harbor Freight is inevitably mentioned. Have you been by your local HF location lately and looked at their wares?
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Aug 7, 2014 05:58
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kid sinister posted:Anytime "affordable" is mentioned regarding tools, Harbor Freight is inevitably mentioned. Have you been by your local HF location lately and looked at their wares? By affordable I don't mean HF, as I constantly hear terrible things about it  Honestly the only reason I didn't buy the Husky stuff was specifically because the drawers felt so flimsy. If their stuff is otherwise considered "good enough" I suppose I could buy it.
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Aug 7, 2014 06:11
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HF toolboxes are supposedly way better than anything else for the money. I can tell you that a cheap Craftsman box is not; they're not bad but they aren't what they used to be.
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Aug 7, 2014 06:50
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Got a Kobalt rolling box here at home, not as good as the Macs but good enough.
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Aug 7, 2014 07:22
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I put castors on an old drawer that was too crappy to take into the house, also nailed a buncha compartments into the drawers to help organization using surplus MDF pieces and the like. Plan to build another one from scratch.
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Aug 7, 2014 08:17
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Got to use my makita DHP458 drill for the first time last night. "Brother in law" (fits, but I'm not married to my gf) needed help putting up a satelite dish and the people he had to put it up had basically no tools. The guy there said "What a battery drill, that's too weak, it'll never work!" Took less than a minute to drill the holes in concrete. Ofcourse I had only a 10mm bit and we needed a 12mm one so he still just scoffed and went home to get his corded drill and a 12mm drill bit.
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Aug 7, 2014 10:02
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Wicaeed posted:By affordable I don't mean HF, as I constantly hear terrible things about it Go to a harbor freight store and touch their 44" pro series toolbox. I bought the side-chest for it a few years ago to use as a tiny apartment toolbox, and was impressed. I have been checking around everywhere here and it's by far the best thing I can find under 400 bucks. Roller slides, heavy steel, good finish. The only downside for me is that the drawers aren't super deep, but I store bigger stuff in cabinets so it's not going to be a big deal for me. 369 with coupon right now, I'm picking one up today after work.
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Aug 7, 2014 14:47
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I don't own one, but have looked at the Harbor Freight tool boxes. I think they seem fine for the most part. I think Harbor Freight power tools aren't great, but I've not had anything bad to say about anything I've bought there with no motor in it. For that matter, the small pancake compressor I bought there also works fine, so some of their power tools aren't terrible too.
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Aug 7, 2014 17:32
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For the money, you can't beat any HF tools that aren't powered. This includes jack stands, containers, and other accoutrement. I have heard bad things about power tools but I have an Impact wrench that is pretty good and has lasted forever.
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Aug 7, 2014 19:45
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My HF rule is "nothing that can burn my house down or kill me" Things that do both are probably OK though
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Aug 7, 2014 22:42
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Wicaeed posted:Where can one find a decently priced and (most importantly) goddamn affordable rolling toolbox? Harbor Freight has by far the best $/quality ratio for a tool box. The 44" is the common recommendation on pretty much ever forum. I have one at work and it's great, the production staff love it vs the crappy Husky one we had before.
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Aug 8, 2014 01:49
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canyoneer posted:My HF rule is "nothing that can burn my house down or kill me" You know, you could probably choke to death on a HF pencil if you were really determined...
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Aug 8, 2014 02:07
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There has been a long running thread on Garage Journal about the best tool chest for the money. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153445 The 44" Harbor Freight box is very well rated, seems like most people who don't spend the money for a Snap-On, Matco, or equivalent will go with the Harbor Freight. I have one myself and the only bad thing I could say is some of the drawers are really only deep enough for thin things like screwdrivers, wrenches, and sockets.
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Aug 8, 2014 05:00
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We use and abuse the crap out of a HF 44" toolbox at work also. Just wanted to point out though that the 26" combo unit is also fantastic for the money, depending on what you're looking for. Also if you can be patient, these do go on sale rather frequently. I think the 26" goes below $300 periodically.
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Aug 8, 2014 13:07
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**Edit: this is actually better than the black Friday deal. I looked again and that was actually an impact and cordless screwdriver, not a drill which is what would be in this combo ** For anyone who was thinking about buying a cordless combo kit, now might be a good time. (Black Friday-ish prices) Home Depot has a deal going on where you buy a qualifying Milwaukee M12 tool kit (single tool) and receive a 2nd qualifying tool (tool only / no battery) for free. There are a bunch of different tool combo's you can come out with, but the one that caught my eye is the Drill / Impact combination. For $99 you can come out with a 12v drill and 12v impact w/ 2 batteries and a charger. For those that remember, that combo at that price was ond of HD's big black Friday blow outs from last year. To get that combo, you would go in store, purchse this drill and then request the Impact driver as your free tool. (The drill kit comes with the 2 batteries and charger) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-8-in-Drill-Driver-Kit-2407-22/204300706 Here's the flyer that I picked up from my local HD. 
Sointenly fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 15:45
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