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I've been using WERA/Makita/Milwaukee impact bits and prefer them in that order.
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Sep 8, 2014 22:26
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Deedle posted:I like my bits to be very consumable. I'd rather ruin a bit than a screwhead. So cheap as chips bits and quality screws is my philosophy. That's where drill bit sharpeners come in handy. Drill Doctor kits are the bee's knees when it comes to to putting a cutting edge back onto any dull or broken bit. Of course, spending a pretty penny for a complete set of US-made cobalt steel bits for drilling metals is nice too...
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Sep 9, 2014 06:18
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kid sinister posted:That's where drill bit sharpeners come in handy.
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Sep 9, 2014 07:13
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Isn't the point of impact bits avoiding being grenaded by your tool? I figured they were less brittle or whatever. Honest question, I have no clue and am a new idiot impact driver owner.
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Sep 9, 2014 12:59
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uwaeve posted:Isn't the point of impact bits avoiding being grenaded by your tool? I figured they were less brittle or whatever. Honest question, I have no clue and am a new idiot impact driver owner. Motronic, I agree, not being able to drive a couple dozen screws with a bit without it breaking makes them worthless. I can make a 2 euro Aldi set of bits last a year of DIY and hobby projects and not ruin a screw, whereas a single 5 euro WERA bit will probably last me a life time with the added headache of stripping screws when I really need that screw to just come undone and not shear the head off. Something all toghether different. Do you guys think it's worth spending €50 extra on a skilsaw so it'll take the same blades as my mitresaw? I have a very good quality crosscut blade with my mitresaw, but a skilsaw with a 30mm arbor is that much more expensive than one which has a 16 or 20mm arbor. The idea of being able to share blades between saws seems really attractive, but I have no idea whether it'll actually be useful.
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Sep 9, 2014 13:53
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My circular saw came with a set of adapters to run different arbor sizes, is that what you mean?
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Sep 9, 2014 14:43
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I switched to star drive screws and now I don't have to deal with the bullshit that is phillips bits.
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Sep 9, 2014 14:45
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Sylink posted:I switched to star drive screws and now I don't have to deal with the bullshit that is phillips bits.
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Sep 9, 2014 14:55
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Robertson bits for life, yo
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Sep 9, 2014 16:18
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Those are good too, and have a good prevalence in my shop thanks to kreg stuff.
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Sep 9, 2014 16:21
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Sylink posted:I switched to star drive screws and now I don't have to deal with the bullshit that is phillips bits. Star drive is the best thing ever for impact guns. Instead of balancing half your body weight on a Phillips to avoid cam-out, you just rest the impact gun on top of the screw and drive it home. It's retarded how much easier it is. I put my deck together with the epoxy coated T12 deck screws, and it was the best extra $10 I ever spent.
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Sep 9, 2014 20:45
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Squibbles posted:Robertson bits for life, yo
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Sep 10, 2014 05:32
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Cakefool posted:My circular saw came with a set of adapters to run different arbor sizes, is that what you mean? But having thought about it a bit more I do think it's worth it. I'll probably still have some blade double just to avoid the hassle of having to swap a blade from one saw into the other, but for speciality blades it'd be nice to be able to just buy 1 and use it with both saws. Added bonus is that 190x30 is the smallest size in which professional-grade blades are available here.
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Sep 10, 2014 09:36
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:Star drive is the best thing ever for impact guns. Instead of balancing half your body weight on a Phillips to avoid cam-out, you just rest the impact gun on top of the screw and drive it home. It's retarded how much easier it is. Square are good too and a bit more common and less expensive. I'm a big fan of McFeely's and McMaster carries plenty of square as well.
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Sep 11, 2014 03:07
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Good deal on a tool I really like. Craftsman Nextec 12v Right Angle impact driver kit (Tool, battery, and charger) for $35 http://www.sears.com/craftsman-next...67&AID=11042411 This is a great tool to have stowed away. I've had one for about a year and have patted myself on the back for buying it on more than one occasion. It doesnt look like much but it's a powerful little driver. In fact, I used it a couple of weeks ago to repair some damaged 2x6 joist. It fits right between the bay and drove 3" galvanized screws with no problems. I've soap boxed on this before, but the Craftsman Nextec tools are all surprisingly good and inexpensive. They have these >$40 deals all the time and it makes it pretty cheap to build up a good set of 12v's. They've also started going the M12 route by expanding the line with more specialized tools. (The Auto hammer is pretty rad also). So yea, at $35 this is a no brainier. The battery alone runs about $23 and you're getting a super useful tool to boot. 
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Sep 11, 2014 17:27
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nmfree posted:You can resharpen Philips head bits? Never heard of that before. Nope. I suppose I should have mentioned you can resharpen cutting and masonry bits. But yeah, fastener bits can't really be resharpened without a machine shop. Well, I suppose you could redo flathead bits with just a bench grinder, but that's it.
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Sep 11, 2014 18:20
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Sointenly posted:Good deal on a tool I really like. Man it would be awesome if this took a M12 battery pack.
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Sep 11, 2014 18:45
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Ok I am having trouble deciding between two drill kits: Milwaukee 2691-22 18V Compact Drill and Impact Driver combo that everyone on Amazon is buying or the M12 Drill and Impact (MTL2411-20) which is like a micro drill but people claim it's powerful. I have tiny playstation controller hands so I am gravitating towards the M12 cause it seems like I just would use it more cause it's small and handy. However, I know down the road I would like to put up some drywall and I'm not sure if the M12 could handle it even if I get a XC battery. What do you think? Here are the links: http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001F7BIMG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2TOI4ILRCO3L5&coliid=I1GGX2Y5NL3SQK https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/ProductDisplay/globalProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=MTL2497-22
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Sep 11, 2014 19:37
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Housh posted:Ok I am having trouble deciding between two drill kits: Milwaukee 2691-22 18V Compact Drill and Impact Driver combo that everyone on Amazon is buying or the M12 Drill and Impact (MTL2411-20) which is like a micro drill but people claim it's powerful. Whatever you do, don't pay $225 for the M12 kit. If you can wait for Black Friday they'll have those or something similar for half that price. Probably not a great answer, but i'm a fan of having both (18 and 12v). Just depends on the application at the time.
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Sep 11, 2014 21:32
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I dislike Phillips but I'll take it over flat-head any day. I think those are designed solely to anger and stymy me, or perhaps they were somewhat inspired and also designed them to slide out and scrape up the paint around the screw and/or slip off and impale my hand. Robertsons, my only experience with them so far, the screws were made of cheese and so were the bits and they rounded out before going all the way in. Torx for life motherfuckers. (you can tell I own Chrysler products now.) Allens/inside hex can go straight to hell too, except in oil bathed/machine shop environments. Nothing turns into a round hole faster than an allen socket except perhaps a Phillips.
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Sep 11, 2014 21:40
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Housh posted:Ok I am having trouble deciding between two drill kits: Milwaukee 2691-22 18V Compact Drill and Impact Driver combo that everyone on Amazon is buying or the M12 Drill and Impact (MTL2411-20) which is like a micro drill but people claim it's powerful. Be aware the way Milwaukee keep the battery sizes small on the 12 V tools is to jam some of the cells up inside the grip. This makes the bottom of the grip flare out and feels strange for my small hands. With the Milwaukee 18 V tools and any other manufacture tools just a connector goes up into the grip. I would go to a store where you can handle the tools to see if you're okay with this.
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Sep 11, 2014 21:50
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$225, what the gently caress? Home Depot sells that same kit for $169, not on sale. For another $10, you could individually get the bare impact for $79 and the drill kit for $100.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Sep 13, 2014 |
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Sep 13, 2014 15:35
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 been tooling around with an old ford 850 tractor on days off in prep of turning a few acres at the family camp lot near algonquin park. some new wiring and a carb rebuild got it from barely moving with the choke half closed to bush hogging through thickass sumac without slowing down. going to town later to buy some chain to stabilize the hitch arms for ploughing once the rain lets up. aiming for 4000 garlic heads in for next year (up from about 1800 this year) and space for some storage vegetables I've been working on a small scale (<10 acres production) organic vegetable farm for 5 years now and have started to feel that draw to start something of my own. Figure I'll give the boss another year while managing my lower maintenance crops on weekends then break free 2016 season. Might even start a thread about it bonus pic of ugly uhaul-branded camper i sleep in while up here: 
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Sep 13, 2014 16:10
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Splizwarf posted:$225, what the gently caress? Home Depot sells that same kit for $169, not on sale. For another $10, you could individually get the bare impact for $79 and the drill kit for $100. Holy gently caress you are right it's $159 CAD and it comes with a HACKZALL: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/m12-cordless-lithium-ion-4-tool-combo-kit/856073 I might just buy that and get a XC battery pack.
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Sep 13, 2014 17:32
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Does anybody have some recommendations for a precision screwdriver kit with triwing tips? Preferably one I could get off of Amazon with Prime delivery. All the ones I'm seeing end up breaking after the second or third screw.
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Sep 13, 2014 17:57
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everythingWasBees posted:Does anybody have some recommendations for a precision screwdriver kit with triwing tips? Preferably one I could get off of Amazon with Prime delivery. All the ones I'm seeing end up breaking after the second or third screw. I've had good luck with wiha stuff, although I don't know if they have any kits with triwing on amazon.
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Sep 14, 2014 05:22
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Housh posted:Holy gently caress you are right it's $159 CAD and it comes with a HACKZALL: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/m12-cordless-lithium-ion-4-tool-combo-kit/856073 What the! That kit is $300 in the US.
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Sep 15, 2014 15:30
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I need a corded rotary tool for cutting metal. Is Dremel still king for this, or should I consider other brands? Also, if I do get a Dremel, can you use non-Dremel cutting wheels on it? Or can you not "mix-and-match" rotary parts?
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Sep 15, 2014 18:21
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melon cat posted:I need a corded rotary tool for cutting metal. Is Dremel still king for this, or should I consider other brands? I'm not sure a Dremel was ever king for cutting metal. They are for light work and overheat pretty quickly when pushed. Exactly what are you cutting? If it's anything substantial a 4.5" angle grinder is likely the way to go.
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Sep 15, 2014 18:51
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Got that jointer/planer home now. Ran it for 10 seconds and it tripped the GFCI. Bah. The area around the drive belt on the cutter felt warm after just those few seconds of running so I am wondering if the bearings are old and causing undue strain, or some other electrical fault. The guy who sold it said it worked for him but he had an older house and older elctrical system without GCFI, so it might just have worked for him I was told, apparently you can get away with a lot when you don't have GCFI breakers, until things catch fire anyway. Should probably have an electrician look at the motor, and get new bearings.
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Sep 15, 2014 20:47
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If it's tripping the GFCI part of the GFCI breaker, it's an issue with ground leakage. That traditionally happens with all motors, and motors tend to get worse as they age. Are non-GFCI breakers for machinery A Thing in Europe?
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Sep 15, 2014 21:02
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Motronic posted:I'm not sure a Dremel was ever king for cutting metal. They are for light work and overheat pretty quickly when pushed. ...with cutting disc. If you got a lot to cut, get a couple cutting discs, they wear down pretty fast. Using a Dremel for cutting metal is for when you need detail work on tiny things, or in places that an angle grinder or hacksaw just won't fit. Plus, you need an extremely steady hand and goggles for those cutting wheels. They shatter like nothing and throw pieces in every direction.
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Sep 15, 2014 21:17
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I wouldn't know, I have little know-how about electricity and I was mostly told all this I just said by someone with more experience. What can be done with ground leakage, is it fixable? Does it matter that the motor is a 380/400V 3-phase rather than a 1-phase motor, they work differently, that I know, just wondering if this ground leakage might be a 1-phase thing or not, since 3-phase motors are supposed to be practically eternal as long as you keep swapping bearings etc.
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Sep 15, 2014 21:19
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kid sinister posted:...with cutting disc. If you got a lot to cut, get a couple cutting discs, they wear down pretty fast. Yes, should have specified that. You can do surprisingly clean cuts with the right discs. Dremels and cutting discs are an exercise in frustration, but one I often find I need to deal with for detail work like cutting a stuck bearing race. The regular abrasive discs are garbage and shatter with any lateral force at all. I've started using fiber discs and they work a lot better.
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Sep 15, 2014 22:57
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Im in the market for a 6" jointer, planer (not a huge one) and a miter saw. Can anyone recommend me safe brands (or even just what to avoid) particularly for the jointer and planer? I'm not as concerned about the saw but I really need the other two to be solid. I see tons of those cheap DeWalt planers around, are they ok? This is going to be for woodworking and not rough contracting type of work.
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Sep 16, 2014 01:41
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Motronic posted:I'm not sure a Dremel was ever king for cutting metal. They are for light work and overheat pretty quickly when pushed.  The builder of this house, in all of their wisdom, built everything in such a way that it can't be remodeled easily. The brackets don't have a spring that releases the mirror. And the mirror won't slide out through the side. I considered just smashing the mirror, but that'd be a bit too messy for my liking. Would a Dremel be most appropriate, or would an angle grinder be better?
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Sep 16, 2014 06:40
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melon cat posted:I'm cutting this metal bracket that's on my bathroom mirror: You have been asking this same question since July and the answer is still the same. Use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the bracket and then bend it out of the way. Have someone hold the mirror while you do this. Take your time.
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Sep 16, 2014 06:56
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Sylink posted:Im in the market for a 6" jointer, planer (not a huge one) and a miter saw. I'm no expert on jointers and planers but the dewalt planer is pretty popular. People seem fond of their Dewalt, Makita, and Bosch miter saws. Grizzly and Powermatic jointers are alternately loved or hated. Craftsman jointers are generally disliked. Don't read as many gripes about Delta or vintage big iron jointers. Hopefully others can be more help.
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Sep 16, 2014 07:09
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iForge posted:You have been asking this same question since July and the answer is still the same. Use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the bracket and then bend it out of the way. Have someone hold the mirror while you do this. Take your time.  Welp. Angle grinder it is, then. Thanks.
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Sep 16, 2014 07:29
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Put something against the wall too so you don't scorch the paint. I didn't think of that when I was cutting some dynabolts out of the slab and had to repaint.
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Sep 16, 2014 07:34
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