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ColdPie posted:I'm interested in getting into this. I ordered a handful of books recommended throughout the thread (thanks wormil!), a No. 4 planer, and a small chisel set, and I've already got a handful of tools inherited from my girlfriend's grandfather. My plan is to start with a coat rack for the front entry way. Shelf for hats, scarves, etc. and obviously pegs below. Even if I don't use all the tools I've bought, I'd like to try building other things in the future. This seems like a good starting project. Start with a handsaw. You can either get the cheapo ones at the home improvement stores, older used ones from ebay/garage sales, or spring for new high-end ones like Veritas. IMO the best value is an older used saw but you'll need to spend some time cleaning it up, sharpening the teeth and probably removing some of the set on the teeth. Paul Sellers has some good videos on doing that stuff on his Youtube channel and free videos on his website. A properly sharpened saw will cut through wood very easily, especially the thinner stock you're likely to use on smaller projects.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:35
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Honestly if you're just getting started, I'd just get a decent-looking handsaw from a hardware store. There's no sense in splurging on the expensive tools until you know this is something you want to do long-term, and as long as you don't go bottom-of-the-barrel, the saw you get will serve you just fine.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Honestly if you're just getting started, I'd just get a decent-looking handsaw from a hardware store. There's no sense in splurging on the expensive tools until you know this is something you want to do long-term, and as long as you don't go bottom-of-the-barrel, the saw you get will serve you just fine. Yep. Though if you're in the hardware store already then getting a small triangular file to sharpen it is probably a good idea too
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Oct 14, 2014 19:05
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Buying hardware store handsaws is a good way to cure yourself of woodworking.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:18
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Especially when a decent one is a minimal extra investment. F'rinstance, I paid about £15 for my lovely stanley tenon saw, and £35 for one of these http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Gyokucho-240mm-Tatebiki--rip--Dozuki---Rattan-Handle.html which is just loving leagues better, for all the extra cost of not buying pizza for dinner one time.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:54
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Stavrogin posted:Where's the bowl turning gurus? I've recently done a lot more turning, and have a problem with sanding. I've blown through three 3" sanding pads in the past two months, and at around $15-20 a pop, I'd rather not keep having to buy them. I learned to put my lathe on low low low speed while sanding, but still, every once and a while, the pad gets pulled downward with the spin of the bowl and the foam that sits between the hook-and-loop top and the drill bit bottom gets a tear. A couple good tears and the pad blows up. Well, that's something that will decrease in frequency the more you do it, but will still happen from time to time. If you'd like to get a nice setup for bowl sanding pick up a Siuox (spelling) right angle drill and then order a 3" twist lock setup from http://vinceswoodnwonders.com/store/ It's the poo poo. Spring for the ceramic pads, they last longer and are more cost effective in the long run. Also, the backer pads won't be running you $20 a pop when they wear out or you have a slip up.
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Oct 14, 2014 20:21
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Any good projects that are ideal for a new table saw owner? I got a nice Dewalt on sale, and I'd like to try following some plans or videos before wandering off on my own. I also have a question about plywood. Hardwoods get expensive when buying by the boardfoot, but I picked up a price list for plywood. A 4x8 sheet of 3/4 maple plywood costs less than one 8 foot board. Before, it didn't matter, but now that I have a table saw, I could rip that 4x8 sheet into anything I want. Can I rip it into "boards" and use it like that? 3/4" plywood is pretty thick stuff; could I use to to make shelving, or legs for a small table? Could I rip it into the equivalent of a 1x6 and use it exactly like a 1x6 plank? What's a good primer on when to use a board, and when to cut up plywood?
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Oct 14, 2014 23:44
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You can use plywood for most applications. Obviously you can't resaw it or make use of any "end grain", but I've seen it used for a lot of unusual applications and it generally holds up fine. I think it's not as strong as solid wood (certainly solid maple is extraordinarily tough stuff, while maple plywood gets most of its strength from the fill of cheaper materials), so if you rip it too thin you might run into problems. It'd be absolutely fine for shelves, tabletops, and other similar applications. Dunno about legs though. You could probably rig up a design that works, but it would be unusual.
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Oct 14, 2014 23:53
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Pagan posted:Any good projects that are ideal for a new table saw owner? I got a nice Dewalt on sale, and I'd like to try following some plans or videos before wandering off on my own. Plywood is used for that stuff all the time. It's not as strong or stiff as solid wood but that usually doesn't matter. If making shelving, google "sagulator".
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Oct 15, 2014 01:12
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I got some pretty good old Disston saws at the flea market for like 3 bucks a while back along with a couple others to try unshittening my sharpening skills on. They now try to sell me every saw they come across that looks like it's spent the last 70 years at the bottom of a swamp
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Oct 15, 2014 01:55
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Pagan posted:also have a question about plywood. Hardwoods get expensive when buying by the boardfoot, but I picked up a price list for plywood. A 4x8 sheet of 3/4 maple plywood costs less than one 8 foot board. Before, it didn't matter, but now that I have a table saw, I could rip that 4x8 sheet into anything I want. How much are you paying per boardfoot for maple?
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Oct 15, 2014 02:43
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His Divine Shadow posted:Thanks, I am pretty much making it up as I go. I really need to make a new bucket, the vacuum in it is not good enough and that ruins the cyclones efficiency a lot. It's a lot better after I went over the bucket with sealant but the lid is still not good and the tape isn't a perfect solution. I got to witness as it failed to separate really fine particulates when I used it to vacuum the fireplace of ash. If you are having leak issues with the bucket top, Home Depot has this leakproof lid that has a gasket already. Works great.
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Oct 15, 2014 02:46
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I kinda want to get into wood working and my girlfriend wants to learn about painting/staining. This looks kinda simple-ish to me, would it be? http://ana-white.com/2012/07/plans/rustic-x-coffee-table I can borrow a miter saw, kreg jig, and sander from friends. Or am I over simplifying this?
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Oct 15, 2014 03:38
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Bob A Feet posted:I kinda want to get into wood working and my girlfriend wants to learn about painting/staining. I've never built her stuff but it all looks pretty simple to me. Ana White is basically weekend, beginner woodworking projects.
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Oct 15, 2014 04:57
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ImplicitAssembler posted:How much are you paying per boardfoot for maple? 1 x 8 soft maple : 8.14 a foot. 2 x 8 poplar : 5.44 a foot "4x8-10 mill A1 WH maple veneer" plywood is 69.30. This is from my local independent supplier, not home depot or lowes.
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Oct 15, 2014 10:59
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Bob A Feet posted:I kinda want to get into wood working and my girlfriend wants to learn about painting/staining. Her designs are fine and meant to be cheap stuff you can build without having to do complex joinery (or really any). It relies on pocket screws and that sort of thing, so if you are low budget and cut carefully it will look nice. But I've done a few her way and didn't really like it, though I am currently building some farmhouse bedside tables but adapting them to use mortis/tenon and proper joints.
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Oct 15, 2014 14:21
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Pagan posted:1 x 8 soft maple : 8.14 a foot. This sounds awfully familar. When I started wanting more (and cheaper) than the big boxes could supply, I went to one of the local places that does both lumber and plywood and saw similar pricing. Their lumber was very very nice, but also very expensive. I then went to one of the 'proper' lumber supplies, who mostly deals with contractors (and not open in the weekend) and the price was less than half. Yeah, the wood wasn't perfect, but more than sufficient for most things. I would shop around a bit more if I were you.
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Oct 15, 2014 18:05
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A proper lumberyard will sell rough-cut boards and generally is willing to finish them (to S2S1E, i.e. both faces and one edge are flat and perpendicular) for a fee -- but even with the fee you'll come out ahead compared to buying from practically anywhere else. And rough-cut boards are often pretty decent already; not perfect, but some work with a sander should get them to an acceptable level of quality.
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Oct 15, 2014 18:22
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Yeah, they have to be prepped, but for 90% of my work, I could get away with doing it on the tablesaw. Just changed workshop and now got access to a decent jointer (12" baby!), which should make life a lot easier.
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Oct 15, 2014 18:44
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Heads up to people in Europe, the Aldi chisel sets are available again from tomorrow. https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/thursday-16-october/product-detail/ps/p/filewood-chisel-set-1/ as recommended by Paul Sellers: https://paulsellers.com/2014/08/which-chisels-should-you-buy/ https://paulsellers.com/2013/10/aldi-supermarket-chisels/
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Oct 15, 2014 23:16
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So the urn is coming along. I'll post pics when I get time. I've always planned on adding legs or a base but I'm going round and round and being indecisive. Access will be through the bottom. Attached is the profile. Any suggestions?
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Oct 16, 2014 19:34
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wormil posted:So the urn is coming along. I'll post pics when I get time. I've always planned on adding legs or a base but I'm going round and round and being indecisive. Access will be through the bottom. 
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Oct 16, 2014 19:36
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I'm sure they will love it. Doesn't really match the mid century modern style though. At least I imagine it as mcm.
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Oct 16, 2014 20:14
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I having trouble visualizing the urn Wormil, even with the picture. I've been working on a cherry and walnut dovetailed shelf. Today I had to glue it up. I made cauls for both sides of each corner to fit. This is the biggest thing with dovetails I've made yet. It's about 57 inches tall, 35 wide and 10 deep. The walnut sides are single boards, but the cherry shelves and top and bottom are glue ups. Hope to get the first coats of finish on tomorrow.  
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Oct 17, 2014 01:53
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ChaoticSeven posted:I having trouble visualizing the urn Wormil, even with the picture. Okay, real pics. I didn't intentionally go for a mid century modern vibe but I don't know what else to call it. Maybe it's not remotely that at all, I don't even play a designer on TV. It's very monolithic though and maybe it needs external legs or something to break that up. MCM tends to use angled, tapered legs but that won't work since I need a lid on the bottom. I'm way outside the box on traditional urns already. Also trying to get inspiration from the website below but his style is so different than where I went. http://sattvagallery.com/collections/kovecses-woodworking  Dry assembly. The groove makes glue up a bit tricky. I can't find my ratchet straps so I made this jig. Wedges will hold the bottom while clamps hold the top. I'll give those edges around the spline a slight bevel.   I'm using 3/8" plywood to try and hold the groove aligned while I glue it, with only moderate success.  More ideas. Left one would have 4 legs outside the box. Right one would have splines but no legs. 
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Oct 17, 2014 06:10
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I actually really like that. I've had a few people ask me to make pet caskets, but no urns. It put me in mind of coming up with some designs to present to local vets, and perhaps having another avenue of income and creativity with selling them. I was thinking, would it have been easier if instead of doing the spline as you've done it here, which is neat, and would be cool on something like a split top hall table or the like; if you had glued up the urn sans spline, then cut a recess after the glue up all the way around. Then you could just glue in some strips of paduak shorter than the recess all the way round. That way you wouldn't have to worry so much about the alignment during glue up being slightly off. Of course, that way you'd have to miter the inlay pieces separately...So it maybe wouldn't be too much easier. Then again, you'd really only have to make sure they met at the tips, it wouldn't matter if they weren't perfectly cut because the opposite side wouldn't be visible.
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Oct 17, 2014 06:58
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Oh, sorry, I was way off before, my bad. Just who the hell is this thing for?!  Seriously, though, I like it, the recessed contrasting material.
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Oct 17, 2014 14:19
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If I were going to do this again, it would be with inlay. But I like experimenting. After sleeping on it I decided to go with splines across the miters but different than I posted above.
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Oct 17, 2014 17:09
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wormil posted:So the urn is coming along. I'll post pics when I get time. I've always planned on adding legs or a base but I'm going round and round and being indecisive. Access will be through the bottom. Modern. 
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Oct 18, 2014 03:04
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Stultus Maximus posted:Modern. Proof there are people with too much money. Maybe I can sell the urn for a few dozen million dollars. Set aside 4 hours to work on this today. Was prepping for glue up, then my cell rang, a customer, then my neighbor came over, then I had to run errands, never got to the glue up. And the longer I think about it, might skip the splines and just go with with Cylon monolith. I fear they are going to hate it and smack me across the mouth. It's not that I don't like it, I like it a lot but my tastes are sometimes - eccentric. On another note, I really like this wood, whatever it is. Guy who gave it to me thought it was ipe and it is heavy but darker and less hard than the ipe boards. This has an almost silky feel. If anyone recognizes it, let me know.
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Oct 18, 2014 08:25
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Cumaru is really similar and often used as an alternative to Ipe but it tends to be a little more brown than what you have there, similar grain and characteristics to what you're describing though.
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Oct 18, 2014 09:45
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I'm working on a project that requires me to set up four end-grain boards. I was running them through the thickness planer to get them flat, and everything went fine until I got to that  purpleheart . It really made my poor thickness planer chug. And on the last pass, this happened: That's a massive scorchmark on the board. When I was doing this pass, for some reason the board just slowed way down. I had to grab my pusher stick and help it through. Any advice for what to do about this? Any idea how deep it goes? I could try to take the mark out with the thickness planer. I'd been taking off maybe a 1/32nd of an inch on each pass because the purpleheart is so dense, but that might have been too little? Or perhaps the mechanism that pulls the board through got some dust in it? Or maybe the teeth on the planer have gone dull? I know planing off endgrain is really hard on them. I don't have a drum sander or other tool that could realistically flatten out end-grain, though.
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Oct 18, 2014 18:12
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whoa, I've never seen that happen before... you don't have any kind of hand plane? or ROS? a ROS is how I made my first endgrain cutting board... heck, I'm still paranoid about putting endgrain through the planer - and this doesn't help  If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say the blade is dull and needs to be sharpened. The rollers would be trying to feed the wood through but the blade isn't cutting into it, so it just keeps "rubbing" and slows down...
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Oct 18, 2014 18:37
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I have a random-orbit sander, but in my experience it's useless for removing any significant amount of material. Great for making things nice and smooth though. I have one dinky little hand plane (maybe 6"?). Your theory about the teeth being dull sounds plausible. I'm pretty sure the teeth on this planer are reversible (i.e. they're strips of metal with teeth on both sides), so I should be able to disassemble the thing, reverse the teeth, and put it back together...but man that sounds like a project. For what it's worth, this is something like the tenth end-grain board I've put through my planer.
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Oct 18, 2014 18:46
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If you don't have a well tuned hand plane I wouldn't even attempt it, you'll just add tearout to your problem. If you've ran that many boards through successfully with no issue, then I'd say you would want to tune up the planer and run it through again. You shouldn't have to take much off at all though. I just took a scrap of purple heart and burned the hell out of it to test, I took it off with a couple passes from a (crappy) scraper.
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Oct 19, 2014 00:58
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Yeah, purpleheart overheats easily, but not very deep. Shouldn't be too hard to get it out once you get your gear tuned up. I don't know if you're planning on doing so, but look into baking your purple heart when you're done cutting it. Practice on some scrap first, but throwing it in the oven at a couple hundred degrees for a little while will get the most beautiful, vibrant purple you can think of, as opposed to the brown it'll age to if you put finish on it after a (relatively) fresh cut.
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Oct 19, 2014 01:13
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I knew to let it sit awhile after cutting to bring the purple back, but have never heard of the oven thing. Gonna give that a shot, thanks.
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Oct 19, 2014 02:31
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Turns out my planned project isn't going to work anyway: That's what happens when you try to stack four 1.25"-thick boards on top of each other and run them through a bandsaw. Turns out the bandsaw blade deflects as it passes through the stack, so the boards can't be pieced together in different colors afterwards. Guess I'll try to "un-do" the cuts I made (glue each individual board back together) so the wood isn't wasted at least, then do something a bit more traditional. 
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Oct 19, 2014 03:04
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Johnny Bravo posted:Cumaru is really similar and often used as an alternative to Ipe but it tends to be a little more brown than what you have there, similar grain and characteristics to what you're describing though. I took a minute to look up cumaru and agree with you. Here is a picture of the cumaru? (back) along with mahogany (left bottom) and ipe (right bottom). The contrast/color is off in this picture and I can't get it quite right. The mahogany and ipe look nearly the same color but the mahogany is more reddish-brown, the ipe a lighter tan. The cumaru? is cooler brown.
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Oct 19, 2014 04:50
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Turns out my planned project isn't going to work anyway: You may still be able to save it by using the inside curve of each piece as the guide for a flush trim router bit on the next-inward piece. You may not end up with perfectly concentric circles, but a bunch of off-center circles may look cool in their own right. I think fixing it that way could prove to be a lot of work, as setting up to run the router over it may be tricky, but it could be worthwhile, you could end up with a real interesting piece. You probably won't get quite the original expected dimensions, though, if that's super critical. e: wait, probably never mind, I'm not actually sure how to make that work at all, I think my thinking was flawed. Oh well. I still like the idea of off-center concentric circles.
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Oct 19, 2014 05:18
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