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Solly posted:I want to get an entry level plane that will work with a dx6i. I'm not bad with my mcpx and I've flown a bunch of planes in pheonix so I won't be crashing it every thirty seconds or so, but equally I don't want to spend a fortune. I would however like to be able to haul a gopro around on it. Im aware this is nearly an impossible set of criteria which is probably why I don't own this thing already. Not really so impossible. That Bixler 3 that Mister Sinewave is made to attach FPV stuff to it, so it shouldn't be that hard to attach a GoPro. If a GoPro is too heavy, there is that SkyMule that is made for just that sort of thing. Basically if you want cheap (be aware quality might not be amazing) go with something off HobbyKing. You will spend ~$200 when you add in a battery and receiver. Edit - If you just want something you can bind and fly, check Horizon Hobby or Hobbyzone or any other retailer of Parkzone stuff. I'm not sure which ones would be suitable for a GoPro though. A better idea of your budget would help a bit. subx fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Oct 22, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2014 22:35
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I want a SkyMule next  Pretty sure the Bix3 could take a gopro. And HobbyKing's "Go Explore" plane (a flying wing) has a dome in the front and a housing made for a go pro. Here is my current FPV canopy-cover thing. It weighs 188g.   I sort of have a thing about the FPV gear being swappable and self-contained. Probably because I'm still experimenting. That package contains a receiver (duplicates the one in the plane - transmitter is bound to both) and drives the servos for the pan/tilt/roll camera mount and fat shark transmitter. The small pcb is HobbyKing's simple OSD (timer and battery voltage only), the heat-shrink blob at the top rear is a BEC (for the servos and receiver), the diagonal plug thing is power distribution, and the button enables/disables the receiver & servos - so if I don't want to use the goggles for P/T/R (I haven't tried them yet) I can just disable the receiver & servos and adjust position of the camera manually - I like to see the nose of the plane in the camera's view when I fly.
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Oct 22, 2014 22:50
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Side note, I have not noticed any particular range improvement with video since moving to the Circular Polarized stuff - but reception is much better at extreme angles like overhead, etc.
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Oct 22, 2014 22:53
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I think that's the main point of rhcp over linear
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Oct 22, 2014 23:16
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Product pages all seem to claim range improvement as one of the benefits  Could just be misremembering though.
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Oct 22, 2014 23:18
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The idea of circular polarized antennas is that reflected signals do not become destructive interference. The gain is not necessarily higher, and they are not necessarily more omnidirectional, but they should work better around objects, especially with higher frequencies.
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Oct 23, 2014 03:37
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Absolutely agree with "reflected signals do not become destructive interference" & "work better around objects, especially with higher frequencies". However, it's my understanding that circular polarized antennas (like the clover leaf Mister Sinewave has), actually are more omnidirectional (unless you were talking about something else) than linear polarized antennas. Linear polarized antennas send out radiation on a specific plane. If your receiving antenna is not aligned with this same plane then you get signal loss. RC aircraft's VTx antennas are always changing their orientation and therefore the signal strength is constantly fluctuating. David Windestål Explains it pretty well Of course if you're using a cp helical antenna on your VRx then it is very much directional and, as such, has a much higher gain and therefore longer range. *a note to lurkers looking into buying cp antennas without doing research; there are two types Right Hand and Left Hand. You can pick either one, but you need to make sure your VTx & VRx are using the same type, otherwise you'll have absolutely horrible reception.
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Oct 23, 2014 13:23
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Widdershins posted:actually are more omnidirectional (unless you were talking about something else) from my two classes learning about antennae in a cisco wireless course, omnidirectional is often referring to the radiation pattern of the antenna instead of the effects of its particular polarization. Widdershins posted:You can pick either one, but you need to make sure your VTx & VRx are using the same type, otherwise you'll have absolutely horrible reception. Are there more than like 2 places that lhcp antennas are sold regularly? I remember immersionrc was showing off a set on flitetest for use when all your buddies are flying your miniquads together, and fpvlr has some. moron izzard fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 13:42
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Widdershins posted:Absolutely agree with "reflected signals do not become destructive interference" & "work better around objects, especially with higher frequencies". They aren't really more omni directional. Rather they don't have polarization loss due to orientation. Their gain is generally less than a linear omni with the same radiation pattern. From memory its about a -3db polarization loss mixing linear and cp antennas but about a -27db loss when you have two linear antennas at 90deg polarization. So if you are doing a sustained 90deg bank a long way away with linear antennas you could have pretty bad loss. You can use this to your advantage though if you put a cp on your plane and use a linear directional like a yagi on your receiver. If you horizontally polarize the yagi you will eliminate a lot of the interference you get in urban environments which tend to be vertically polarized. I've been using a linear 3db whip on my long range setups vtx for the extra gain and rarely have run into situations where cp would be better. Its on 2.4 though which benefits from CP less than 5.8 does.
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Oct 23, 2014 15:51
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What is the consensus for storage of lipo batteries? Store them discharged fully charged somewhere in between or does it even matter? I'm thinking for storage measured in many weeks or even a few months.
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Oct 23, 2014 16:07
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slidebite posted:What is the consensus for storage of lipo batteries? Store them discharged fully charged somewhere in between or does it even matter? I'm thinking for storage measured in many weeks or even a few months. Most agree with storing them around 3.8v per cell. I don't know of any experimental evidence that supports this, but even the manufacturers say it is best to store at a mid-level of charge. Most chargers have a storage feature that should put them near that.
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Oct 23, 2014 16:21
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slidebite posted:What is the consensus for storage of lipo batteries? Store them discharged fully charged somewhere in between or does it even matter? I'm thinking for storage measured in many weeks or even a few months. 60% charged is best, I usually store them like that or mostly discharged (I usually fly my packs down to 20% or so) and haven't noticed any big issues with storing them at 20%. However, I have ruined plenty of packs storing them fully charged. The other important thing to remember is that there is no threshold over which it damages them to store them fully charged. So storing them fully charged for 1 day does 1% as much damage as storing them fully charged for 100 days. So the less time they spend charged, the better.
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Oct 23, 2014 18:31
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Wojcigitty posted:60% charged is best, I usually store them like that or mostly discharged (I usually fly my packs down to 20% or so) and haven't noticed any big issues with storing them at 20%. However, I have ruined plenty of packs storing them fully charged. It is really this bad? Crap. I usually use the batteries for my Phantom 2 within a week or so of fully charging, but the hassle of having to express charge all 3 so far before I had to do something would be a major pain. Especially if something comes up on a whim and I need a battery like Right Now!
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Oct 23, 2014 19:00
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I've had 2 of my Nanotech 2200's die over the last month or so...both lost a cell. Very annoying, especially as they hadn't been used much.
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Oct 23, 2014 19:04
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Wojcigitty posted:The other important thing to remember is that there is no threshold over which it damages them to store them fully charged. So storing them fully charged for 1 day does 1% as much damage as storing them fully charged for 100 days. So the less time they spend charged, the better. Wow, I had no idea. EdEddnEddy posted:It is really this bad? Crap. I'll put them in my Phantom and just run it on low for a while to run them down. The stock DJI charger has no "storage" or discharge feature that I know of. e: Also had shockingly fast service on ordering a soft case from Amazon.ca shipping from China. I ordered it Weds night and it arrived here on my doorstep Tuesday!
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Oct 23, 2014 20:17
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EdEddnEddy posted:It is really this bad? Crap. It also depends a lot on the quality of your batteries. It's easier to kill cheap packs by storing them charged, on the other hand I have some expensive Hyperion packs that I have left charged for months and abused for years on end and they still perform awesome. It certainly is a pain to have to charge at the last minute, which is one nice thing about the new chargers and packs that we have where you can get it charged in 20 minutes. ImplicitAssembler posted:I've had 2 of my Nanotech 2200's die over the last month or so...both lost a cell. Very annoying, especially as they hadn't been used much. Most of the Nanotechs around here have been disappointing.
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Oct 23, 2014 21:09
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Wojcigitty posted:
I've been quite happy with the smaller ones for my foamies.THey been abused and still charges happily..but the 2200's for my Edge (which is too big for my local park) has only been used in anger 3 times each or so. OTOH, the cheap Turnigys are going strong, but voltage sag is just too high on them...
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Oct 23, 2014 22:18
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subx posted:Not really so impossible. That Bixler 3 that Mister Sinewave is made to attach FPV stuff to it, so it shouldn't be that hard to attach a GoPro. If a GoPro is too heavy, there is that SkyMule that is made for just that sort of thing. The bixler 3 looks like exactly what I'm looking for, fpv kit would be even better than a go pro thinking about it. All I need now is to find somewhere in the UK to buy it. I'm guessing fitting a spektrum reciever won't be to hard. How far back is his post about it?
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Oct 23, 2014 22:42
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Speaking of killing batteries, I just learned that I really should be using the voltage alarm/meter I bought specifically to avoid what I just did. Was working on trying to get the OSD running, and it seems my VRx and 7" screen managed to suck a battery into the dead zone. Saw the screen go black, the LED numbers on the VRx dimmer than I recall, plugged in the monitor (which was right with it all  ), and got nothing... unplugged it quickly, tried checking again, 7.3V.My charger refuses to try and revive it claiming too low voltage. Probably for the best. Guess I get to try disposal methods now. It is currently outside in a ceramic pot. Still have a bit of an issue which I was in the middle of working on. The OSD was never showing up on my screen. The only way I have had success is by connecting just the OSD's video out to the transmitter, which gives me a black screen and the OSD information. From the one post I found with information, it sounds like it may be the camera outputting in PAL N, and the OSD trying to work on PAL M. Have yet to get the Naze32 talking to it either, but the whole battery thing interrupted that.
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Oct 24, 2014 03:32
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Solly posted:The bixler 3 looks like exactly what I'm looking for, fpv kit would be even better than a go pro thinking about it. All I need now is to find somewhere in the UK to buy it. I'm guessing fitting a spektrum reciever won't be to hard. How far back is his post about it? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3386779&userid=131813
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Oct 24, 2014 04:31
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I think you should try to build this variant of the Bixler. http://youtu.be/knJt-D9-KNw
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Oct 24, 2014 04:48
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Just ordered a Pixhawk clone for my Foamhunter. Automation, here I come.
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Oct 24, 2014 05:00
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I've had 2 of my Nanotech 2200's die over the last month or so...both lost a cell. Very annoying, especially as they hadn't been used much. Extremely high discharge rate batteries have major issues with this. Some nano-techs it's not recommended to leave them charged up for more than a few hours without use. The cheaper (higher IR) batteries are much more tolerant.
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Oct 24, 2014 09:45
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Any suggestions on places that sell/stock lipo batteries in canada? I'm usually looking at at least 20 bucks from HK US, and more if its Fedex (custom fees).
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Oct 24, 2014 20:56
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Golluk posted:Any suggestions on places that sell/stock lipo batteries in canada? I'm usually looking at at least 20 bucks from HK US, and more if its Fedex (custom fees). I usually just do hk us. Even with the $15 purolator charge to vancouver its still way cheaper than domestic. Everywhere local in Vancouver is around double HK prices from what I've seen.
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Oct 24, 2014 23:02
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Maybe I've been fortunate, but I have yet to be charged a dime in customs/GST fees on anything brought in from HK or China. Only time I ever seem to get hit is from the US, and that's about a 50/50 crapshoot.
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Oct 24, 2014 23:49
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mashed_penguin posted:I usually just do hk us. Even with the $15 purolator charge to vancouver its still way cheaper than domestic. Everywhere local in Vancouver is around double HK prices from what I've seen. I think I'm kinda screwed either way if all I want is one item. Oh well, I'll take it as a $40 lesson on being more careful with my lipos. Did a couple short flights. Did a nice cartwheel on the ground again that did no noticeable damage. Landed smoothly the next two times. Ended up talking to a guy who apparently flies pigeons... I thought he meant a small plane that looks like a pigeon, but he actually raises, trains, and races homing pigeons. You meet all kinds.
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Oct 25, 2014 01:27
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Put my quad away after a pretty normal flight yesterday. Recharged the batteries, and went out today to fly it a bit, and one of the motors was totally frozen. When I finally got it to turn, the turn was accompanied by a small cracking noise. 
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Oct 25, 2014 02:52
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MrYenko posted:Put my quad away after a pretty normal flight yesterday. Recharged the batteries, and went out today to fly it a bit, and one of the motors was totally frozen. When I finally got it to turn, the turn was accompanied by a small cracking noise. Could just be a small stone. Take the casing off and see if there's any damage and clean out any dirt. Oh and I bricked my Naze32 today, trying to get it set up with CleanFlight. I was hoping to at least get an idea of power-usage before I the Pixhawk, but now that'll have to wait. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 08:12
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I have a Turnigy Talon frame tricopter and turnigy 9x receiver/transmitter. It decided today that it hates me so goddamn much. I can't, for the life of me, get the loving elevator signal t reverse. I did something dumb to try to fix it. -Turn on Tri -Turn on transmitter -Arm it -go to settings and reverse the elevator -freak out as my tri jumps about 12 feet in the air for no good goddamn reason since I didn't move the throttle. This is what I get for trying to set up a profile without any clue. It's in plane mode, tricopter set up. Throttle is reversed and all the receiver test stuff makes sense and is set to the right channel. It's just refusing to reverse. This is why I cry.
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Oct 25, 2014 21:48
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It looks like there's an update to the phantom 2 coming out. New Motors, ESCs and prop design, and the controller has a trainer port, li-ion battery and trainer port https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.739854506050014.1073741856.264645063570963&type=1
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Oct 25, 2014 22:35
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I have a Turnigy Talon frame tricopter and turnigy 9x receiver/transmitter. That really sounds like you reversed the throttle channel. Any other channels should be at the center point, which wouldn't matter if you swapped it. I guess if you had the elevator trimmed negative, it might have then gone to a positive trim. Could try reversing it in the flight controller? Or play with those on just the radio. The limit screen should show you the current value (-100 to 100), Trim/offset, lower limit, and upper limit. Then again I'm running OpenTX on my 9x transmitter, but I think it is similar to the stock firmware. For some good news, it seems I was just being dumb with my PAL/NTSC settings, and being distracted by dieing batteries. OSD is visible with the main video now, the virtual horizon works, and the throttle percent is showing accurately. I wasn't having much luck with the GPS though. It still showed 0 satellites after 4 or so minutes. Either it is still taking a long time to lock, or I need to adjust where it shows up in the mavlink signal. I think. Golluk fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Oct 26, 2014 |
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Oct 26, 2014 01:55
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I have a Turnigy Talon frame tricopter and turnigy 9x receiver/transmitter. 1. Take the loving props off before you are sure you got your poo poo sorted.  2. Sounds like the transmitter is in Mode 1 when it should be in Mode 2 or vise versa. For reference: 
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Oct 26, 2014 03:19
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Oh and I bricked my Naze32 today, trying to get it set up with CleanFlight If you bricked it purely via firmware flashing you should be able to recover it the built in bootloader flashing procedure. Get the original naze manual and look for the section that talks about jumping two pads on the board to flash. If you burned the board via power or polarity then it's toast.
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Oct 26, 2014 15:04
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Embarassing Freezing Windy Day Doesn't Stop Me (actually it does) aka Learning Is FUN  Pretty nice takeoff, considering. I don't see the big deal.  poo poo, it's windy as hell. I'm unintentionally flying SIDEWAYS  And I can't help but feel somewhat in over my head  fuckfuckfuckfuckFUCKFUUUUUUUCCKKK  Holy poo poo I am a lucky motherfucker *hyperventilating* That's it, bring it in for a landing. I have to work the frostbite out of my fingers anyway.  Oh well, I'll take it.
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Oct 26, 2014 19:38
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Please make a gif of you pulling out of that dive!
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Oct 26, 2014 20:07
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That *is* the gif of pulling out of the spiral stall  The recorder dropped some frames and the static was from losing video signal (being so near the ground so far away.) The abrupt shift to level flight isn't the gif looping - that IS the recovery (what was recorded of it, anyway.)
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Oct 26, 2014 |
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Oct 26, 2014 20:29
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CrazyLittle posted:If you bricked it purely via firmware flashing you should be able to recover it the built in bootloader flashing procedure. Get the original naze manual and look for the section that talks about jumping two pads on the board to flash. If you burned the board via power or polarity then it's toast. Yeah, I missed that bit when I read about the bootloader elsewhere...will try this tonigh. I only had USB plugged, so nothing should be fried.
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Oct 26, 2014 21:02
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A Yolo Wizard posted:It looks like there's an update to the phantom 2 coming out. New Motors, ESCs and prop design, and the controller has a trainer port, li-ion battery and trainer port I wonder if any of that can be upgraded on the current P2? Could always use a better compass and motors\props\esc's.
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Oct 26, 2014 22:53
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EdEddnEddy posted:I wonder if any of that can be upgraded on the current P2? Could always use a better compass and motors\props\esc's. Just wait till yours flies away and buy the new one.
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Oct 27, 2014 01:07
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