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I have a coffee table I made out of a slab of black walnut a few years back. I finished it with about 5 coats of Watco Danish oil and then a final coat of paste wax. I think the paste wax was a mistake, I never got it buffed correctly I don't think and it has always looked streaky. After a while it began getting rings from setting hot drinks on it w/out using coasters and what not and the finish just looks pretty not-great. I finally decided to try to strip it down and refinish it the other day. The first thing I did was hit it with mineral spirits in the hopes that I could strip all of the wax off and just re-apply some more danish oil. It seems like it sort of worked as the finish is much more matte now but there is definitely still a bit of a waxy film. My question is... should I just keep using elbow grease and mineral spirits or should I step up to something a little stronger and/or just sanding it down and starting fresh. The table is a solid 1" thick or so so I can definitely hit it with some 100 grit and take the finish off altogether, or I could try using a finer grain just to eat through the wax. Any recommendations on the best way to get the wax off so I can go back to a more uniform finish with the oil?
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Nov 4, 2014 01:30
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Is it really necessary to strip it? I wouldn't want to do that. Naptha would be my choice for removing wax then I'd give the top a light sanding and wipe on a few coats of slightly thinned varnish.
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Nov 4, 2014 03:25
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thespaceinvader posted:Varnish is... gently caress trying to explain it wiki is accurate: So a catchall term for all kinds of finishes really. Based on this the water based stuff is either acrylic or polyurethane based.
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Nov 4, 2014 09:25
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thespaceinvader posted:Varnish is... gently caress trying to explain it wiki is accurate: The best way to describe it is that it is very similar to Varn, but not quite the same thing.
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Nov 4, 2014 12:55
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Frogmanv2 posted:So I'm trying to get some ideas for Christmas gifts that I can pump out fairly easily that aren't chopping boards. I'm going to give tealight candle holders in a yin yang design a shot. Any one got any other go to builds? I thought these coaster sets were pretty neat and a great way to recycle small offcuts: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/107309.
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Nov 4, 2014 16:01
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SkunkDuster posted:The best way to describe it is that it is very similar to Varn, but not quite the same thing. Thanks dad
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Nov 4, 2014 17:27
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His Divine Shadow posted:So a catchall term for all kinds of finishes really. Based on this the water based stuff is either acrylic or polyurethane based. Here is my understanding of these terms with respect to modern practical usage in the States. Varnish is an oil & solvent based, clear film finish. It will not melt into itself. Typically has a yellowish tint. Polyurethane behaves similar to varnish but is waterbase. Bluish tint. Lacquer is some kind of resin dissolved in solvent that will melt into itself. Neutral tint. Acrylic, I have no idea really except it is a waterbase product with a neutral tint. I have seen acrylic lacquer and varnish products but I'm not sure if acrylic varnish melts into itself or not. Shellac is refined lac bug secretions dissolved (usually) in alcohol but can also be waterbase. It contains a certain amount of natural wax depending on refinement and works with any other finish. Tint varies from warm neutral to reddish. Some people consider it a varnish, I do not because shellac is not oil based and has properties lacking in varnish or lacquer. Wiping varnish is varnish thinned with oil and/or solvent. Danish Oil is wiping varnish with a high oil content. "Tung Oil Finish" is a wiping varnish that may or may not contain tung oil. Again, just my personal definitions and definitely not grounded in any historical context.
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Nov 4, 2014 21:57
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wormil posted:Is it really necessary to strip it? I wouldn't want to do that. Naptha would be my choice for removing wax then I'd give the top a light sanding and wipe on a few coats of slightly thinned varnish. I mean, yeah, realistically it probably doesn't need to be stripped stripped. The layers of Danish oil I put on look pretty good once I get the wax off I'd imagine. How different is Naphtha from mineral spirits? if I've hit it w/ Mineral Spirits and it still has a slightly waxy appearance will Naphtha take it down any further or should I just go ahead and sand it? Thinking I'll sand it with like 400 through 800, does that sound right?
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Nov 4, 2014 22:40
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Naphtha is a stronger solvent and is great for removing most residues, adhesives, and waxes. 320 is low enough if you plan to add more coats of finish. Then buff out the final layer in a few weeks once it's fully cured.
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Nov 5, 2014 00:53
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So I'm going to get into some woodworking out of necessity, and hopefully hobby. I just picked up a radial arm saw for free, and found a Black and Decker drill press (20-30 years old) for $40. I have some really basic tools beyond that like a hammer, a tape measure, and a cordless drill/driver (something like 10.5 volt). Any recommendations on what I should pick up next? I'm on a pretty tight budget. I was thinking a sanding block, a set of decent chisels, an electric stapler, and maybe an old Stanley bench plane? Initial projects will be a projector screen with reinforcement braces and miter/block joints, and a toy chest or book case. Any input on any of those tools, or anything I might be missing just to start?
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Nov 5, 2014 01:13
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Why would you want to buy a sanding block?
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Nov 5, 2014 01:46
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Frogmanv2 posted:Why would you want to buy a sanding block? Are you saying I should make a sanding block, or that it isn't necessary? I suppose it wouldn't be hard to make a small sanding block out of some wood. We used to do that when I worked at a lamination shop come to think of it. Edit: vv k, thanks. Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Nov 5, 2014 |
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Nov 5, 2014 02:00
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Buy tools as you need them for projects, not pre-emptively. Too much risk of buying a cool tool and then never using it, otherwise. You can make a cheapo sanding block with a piece of scrap wood, some sandpaper, and some thumbtacks. No need to buy one.
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Nov 5, 2014 02:00
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From my copy of "Understanding Wood Finishing" Varnish is a mix of oil and resin. It is typically Alkyd based but can also be polyurethane. Other options include alkyd/soybean oil or alkyd/linseedoil or phenolic/tung oil. And Varnish can be thinned by mineral spirits. The three resins - phenolic,alkyd and polyurethane, have different properties/toughness for your varnish so you can take that into consideration. Alkyd-based is the one you most likely want to use to avoid the cloudiness of poly.
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Nov 5, 2014 14:23
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Here's a dumb question: are there rules of thumb or anything for how thick to make boxes/etc? Going to be making boxes and picture frames to start off with and get a hang of simple joints, but not sure how thick I should pick up my wood. Is that just one of those 'you'll get it over time' bits?
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Nov 5, 2014 17:12
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Depends on the wood, depends on the joint style, depends on the box design.
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Nov 5, 2014 18:59
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Uhhhhhh...if it's a very small box, 1/4", if it's a medium box, 1/2", if it's a large box, 3/4"? 
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Nov 5, 2014 19:03
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alright well that does confirm the 'stupid question' part at least. thanks!
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Nov 5, 2014 20:55
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wormil posted:Naphtha is a stronger solvent and is great for removing most residues, adhesives, and waxes. 320 is low enough if you plan to add more coats of finish. Then buff out the final layer in a few weeks once it's fully cured. Awesome, I'll give this a shot! This is what the finish looks like now after a first pass with the mineral spirits, you can see that it still has a film of wax. I think it particularly looks bad on the dark/sappy parts  
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Nov 6, 2014 01:24
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I'm not sure this belongs in woodworking or wherever, but it's about my woodworking space. My garage that is. I'm basically done with the ceiling and exterior walls and the garage door will be done this week, next up are the interior walls. The plans from the builder specify three rooms, I got some plans here, upper one is original: Now I'm really unsure if I want this anymore. I'm walking around in the main space and I think I could have use of it as a single large room/workshop instead and just have one smaller storage room for other stuff. The original plan was to use the small room in the top left corner as a hobby/reloading room. I still want to put my reloading equipment in the garage, but I am thinking what if I just put it all in the corner instead and keep it all as one room. My main concern then is all the dust from the woodworking machines, anyone know if the reloading presses and the like will be negatively affected, or could I just screen of the area behind some drapes instead? Or just cover the machines when not in use? I dunno if anyone else has tried to mix these two hobbies in the same space or not. Still going from 199 sq.ft to almost 260 could be very nice. (edit: ceiling, not roof, keep mixing them up) His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Nov 6, 2014 |
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Nov 6, 2014 07:36
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One big space, always. More flexible to changing needs and you can (and should) cover equipment that's not in use. You can also throw up a stud wall in an afternoon if you need to subdivide.
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Nov 6, 2014 07:58
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My friends gave me a Bosch jigsaw and a chisel set for my birthday so I ventured out to make babby's first woodworking project, a small coffee table using reclaimed materials. I've already learned that I need all the goddamn tools, starting with a cheap miter-box for use with a hand-saw because doing this by hand was impossible. Frame is a welded rack someone was giving away on a craigslist type site, table-top was made out of pallet-wood. I filled up a lot of cracks and chiselled away a lot of bumps, but in the end I decided to leave it alone and embrace the whole uneven upcycled wood look. It's not perfect but sturdy as gently caress, my bf is impressed, and now I can move on to the next project. 
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Nov 6, 2014 08:38
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Fiend posted:Do you have a black light?  That is amazing. I need to try that. Hypnolobster posted:I have a ton of experience with it, but mostly in terms of running it through a bandsaw mill, building bridges and abutments out of it. I've made some rough finished benches out of it as well. Really doesn't like chisels and planes unless you're doing rough work. Mostly I'm doing timber framing type construction, the rest of the time it's logs and round notches or half laps. Yea that kind of stuff is that I was thinking. Big heavy rough shaped stuff. Its fun to play with, but drat is it hard to work. Stavrogin posted:I love it. I turned a bunch of bowls from a super green log, and milled some of the excess into small pieces I throw into serving trays. It has such a unique color. That is definitely awesome. It's color is not what I was expecting when laid near "normal" wood colors. Does it keep it's smell as it drys? The stuff I have is kinda stinky and it doesn't seem to be really losing that. Also, I am completely sorry that I didn't reply to these. I love this thread and keeps me thinking about new stuff to make and the Matthias Wandel videos blow my mind / make me want to plan out some projects of note.
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Nov 6, 2014 17:21
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Hey goons, I'm looking into picking up a table saw some time soon. Right now I mainly will be using it for building speakers, so cutting MDF, OSB, or plywood. Tho as time goes on maybe I'll get into working with hardwood some day. So the question is what's a good cheap table saw in 2015? I don't have tons to spend, so I'm looking at either entry level but not lovely, or used. Right now Home Depot has their Ridgid portable unit on sale for $100 off, I hear good things about that brand...
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Nov 6, 2014 20:17
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evilskillit posted:Hey goons, I'm looking into picking up a table saw some time soon. Right now I mainly will be using it for building speakers, so cutting MDF, OSB, or plywood. Tho as time goes on maybe I'll get into working with hardwood some day. What's your price range? I'm really happy with the Delta that Lowe's is selling for $599.
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Nov 6, 2014 20:28
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Stultus Maximus posted:What's your price range? I'm really happy with the Delta that Lowe's is selling for $599. That's slightly out of it. I was thinking $300-$500 tops. I know that's total junk bargain basement cheap. That's the second recommendation for that Delta tho. Also got a couple for the Ridgid from HD at about the same price. So I might see if I can swing that if no one has a cheaper solution.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:54
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There's a lot of good reviews for the Ridgid one I think. Also keep an eye out for sales as I think they often knock $50-100 off the price plus if you are in the US apparently you can get harbor freight 20% off anything coupons and some home depots will match them.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:57
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Squibbles posted:If you are in the US apparently you can get harbor freight 20% off anything coupons and some home depots will match them. I worked at Home Depot for a few years a while ago and never have heard of such a thing. But it never hurts to ask because if they do that'd be HUGE.
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Nov 7, 2014 04:38
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evilskillit posted:That's slightly out of it. I was thinking $300-$500 tops. I know that's total junk bargain basement cheap. That's the second recommendation for that Delta tho. Also got a couple for the Ridgid from HD at about the same price. So I might see if I can swing that if no one has a cheaper solution. The newer Ridgids have a history of alignment problems but otherwise are good saws. In that price range I would look at used contractor saws, Delta, Powermatic, Jet with a good fence. Like new! NOT these have universal motors and sound like mountain lions being roasted alive https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/4671748864.html This would be a decent saw but he's asking too much money. His valuation of a used Unifence is high at $250. And the saw is only 1hp. I would offer $350 tops. https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/4745177678.html How close is this? http://loz.craigslist.org/tls/4746521372.html
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Nov 7, 2014 04:52
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evilskillit posted:I worked at Home Depot for a few years a while ago and never have heard of such a thing. But it never hurts to ask because if they do that'd be HUGE. http://www.homedepot.com/c/SF_MS_In-Store_Low_Price_Guarantee
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Nov 7, 2014 08:14
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evilskillit posted:That's slightly out of it. I was thinking $300-$500 tops. I know that's total junk bargain basement cheap. That's the second recommendation for that Delta tho. Also got a couple for the Ridgid from HD at about the same price. So I might see if I can swing that if no one has a cheaper solution. Honestly at that range you should go through Craigslist and get a cheap used one.
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Nov 7, 2014 13:01
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But harbor frieght doesn't sell name brand equipment like Dewalt does it? 
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Nov 7, 2014 13:02
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wormil posted:The newer Ridgids have a history of alignment problems but otherwise are good saws. Lake of the Ozarks is a couple of hundred miles away. Too far for me. Out of curiosity how did you know / where does it say I'm from KC? Thanks for trolling my local CL for me. Doctor Zero posted:But harbor frieght doesn't sell name brand equipment like Dewalt does it? "If you find a current lower price on an identical, in-stock item from any local retailer, we will match the price and beat it by 10%." Precisely, it has to be the exact same model number, otherwise you have to, at best, get a manager to agree to the deal. Even then if the discount is too steep they'll say "Well just go to that place instead". I worked in appliance sales at Home Depot for 4 years and that was my experience.
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Nov 7, 2014 15:46
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Kansas City is in your SA profile.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:42
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evilskillit posted:Also got a couple for the Ridgid from HD at about the same price. So I might see if I can swing that if no one has a cheaper solution. I had the Ridgid R4512 for the past three years and just recently upgraded to a Grizzly G1023 because I'm working with thicker hardwoods. If you don't want a used saw and you can get a R4512 without the alignment issue, it's an excellent machine for the price. The key features (in my mind) are: -A decent motor that can be upped to 220v to improve performance. I boosted mine to 220 last summer, and it made a difference. It's probably not worth doing if you don't already have a 220v outlet, but if you do (or you're getting one installed for general reasons) it's pretty easy to switch the saw to 220v. Granted, you can do this with most contractor saws too, I think. -A "good enough" fence and miter gauge. It's not a Biesemeyer, but the R4512 stock fence is plenty serviceable for the majority of projects. It also has a bunch of T-slots built in, which is nice for attaching jigs and hold-downs. -A well-designed, tool-free riving knife/blade guard system. A used contractor saw may not have good safety features, and if it does they likely won't be as good as the R4512. Being able to switch from splitter/guard to riving knife (for non-through cuts) in seconds was incredibly convenient. I actually liked the Ridgid setup better than the tool-free setup on my new cabinet saw. -Better dust collection than a contractor saw. The R4512 is a hybrid; its motor is enclosed in a cabinet with a funnel bottom opening in a dust port. Contractor saws have an open back with the motor hanging out. (They also have a bigger footprint for this reason.) -A really nice factory-standard mobile base. The Herculift base is a great design and works perfectly with the saw's weight and size. -The Ridgid Lifetime Service Agreement. It isn't the same thing as a lifetime warranty, but it covers a LOT of things. I blew a capacitor a few weeks ago, and it's being fixed for free at a local authorized service center. I also got a new fence for free when I had issues getting my original fence to stay square. I think the LSA even covers the dreaded alignment issue. (But you need to make sure you're within reasonable distance of a service center.) None of the Home Depots by me honor Harbor Freight coupons anymore, but they did previously and I got the saw at 25% off when it was $499 retail. For $400, it was a steal. ADHDan fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 20:09
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You're making me second-guess myself. I've been waiting forever to get a new tablesaw and ridiculously enough I'm torn between the Grizzly G0690 and the lowly R4512. I mostly need to pick up a tablesaw, dust collector and a bandsaw and I've got a jointer and planer. I don't mind spending the big money on the Grizzly, but if I pick up the Ridgid, that leaves me with money for one of the other things I need. I really want that drat grizzly though
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Nov 8, 2014 16:00
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I've been going around playing with table saws at stores and I really like the Dewalt fence system the best. I'm not a contractor and just plan on getting one for playing around with stuff in the house and building some desks and tables and whatnot. I might see if the DWE7490X comes on sale during the holidays and pick one up.
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Nov 8, 2014 16:28
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Hypnolobster posted:You're making me second-guess myself. Buy the Grizzly. You will never look back and regret buying the better saw. I waited a full year to save up the extra for the Delta and have never regretted it for a moment.
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Nov 8, 2014 17:12
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Hypnolobster posted:I really want that drat grizzly though Get the loving Grizzly! Seriously, it is an awesome saw and I hate that I waited so long to get it. That Rigid saw is a flimsy aluminium and plastic hunk of junk. The Grizzly weighs close to 500lbs and has a cast iron top.
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Nov 8, 2014 23:14
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Well, I'm convinced. Can you guys talk me into going and picking this up next? http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/4726272921.html Or this one, I guess http://meadville.craigslist.org/hvo/4697666078.html
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Nov 9, 2014 01:40
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