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Eh, HGUC ZZ benefits a lot from some design changes; the upper half of its torso is a bit sharper so you can actually see the collar, the blue arm guards are better proportioned (and the red elbow bits are in the right place!), and the way the shoulder flaps attach on is a lot more stable. Even the shields are less oversized and the legs, as you note, are no longer a clusterfuck of sliding parts. But even beyond that there are some minor proportion changes to make the whole thing look more sleek. The ZZ is totally a giant mess of a design though, and that's why I love it. 
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Nov 16, 2014 13:11
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I think the zz is ugly and gaudy and i mean that in the best way. I love that design though it did have to grow on me after the initial "what"
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Nov 16, 2014 13:17
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Sorry guys, longpost about paints, feel free to skip ahead if you've seen this a million times. I used to believe Mr. Color products were lacquer based since they dried fast and folks don't thin them with water, but it turns out they are acrylic-based. I don't get it. Does this mean they are acrylic pigment on a lacquer solution? That would make sense to me.   Then there's a line called "aqueous" color which apparently uses a true water-soluble solution. Never seen them in person so I cannot attest to how they dry and cure.  I assume finishing "metelials" are kosher for any kind of paintjob, provided I follow the traditional rules.  Ultimately, my three goals are to master a "perlescent" white finish that the pros seem to rave about all the time. There's a powder apparently or some product but I don't know it. Then there's the issue of mastering candy-coating. I can already do it, just not as good as this  There are those metal parts I was talking about. I need a whole bunch of them.  Weathering doesn't attract me as much; It's commonplace in the 1/35 tamiya tank world of smearing your model with fake snow, mud and rust, albeit I see that in gunpla, the resuts are different because of the "semi-gloss" finish of most paintjobs.  Feel free to school my noob-rear end with your knowledge, all I want is for my models to look absurdly good. tl;dr I'm an idiot learning how to paint again.
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Nov 16, 2014 13:48
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Good god that candycoated Kampfer looks so good.
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Nov 16, 2014 15:31
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BlitzBlast posted:(and the red elbow bits are in the right place!) Never even noticed this before, that's pretty  I guess.Really though, the MG looks pretty nice in person in terms of general execution: its failing is that it's a floppy, leprotic, ever-shifting mess of not-quite-adequate mechanisms in service of an utterly ludicrous transformation system and is an absolute nightmare to pose, handle or deal with (I took mine out for a looksee and it shed no fewer than five parts in the first minute, two of which immediately disappeared into the sock dimension so I guess the joke's on me for saying nice things about this bad, bad kit.)
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Nov 16, 2014 17:57
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Do you require an airbrush to pull off a finish like this?
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Nov 16, 2014 17:59
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yeah pretty much
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Nov 16, 2014 18:06
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It's doable with rattlecans too, provided the colors you're looking for are available. I'm no authority on candy finishes, but they're basically accomplished by laying down lots of coats, sanding each coat to within an inch of its life and then hand-polishing the living poo poo out of the topcoat. Very labor-intensive, not for the meek. edit: VVV oh, to be so innocent again. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Nov 16, 2014 |
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Nov 16, 2014 18:13
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Bimmi posted:It's doable with rattlecans too, provided the colors you're looking for are available. I thought you just laid down a base coat of black enamel and sprayed a translucent colour on top of it?
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Nov 16, 2014 18:20
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Luminaflare posted:I thought you just laid down a base coat of black enamel and sprayed a translucent colour on top of it? You can but it won't look anywhere near that good.
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Nov 16, 2014 19:09
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Black, chrome, then a translucent colour I think. I think that takes mega practice to pull off.
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Nov 16, 2014 19:10
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A coat like on that Kaempher? Yeah, definitely a lot of sanding and polishing involved. But I mean you guys have the gist of a basic candy coat if you've ever thought about changing the color of a Unicorn Psyco Frame. Base coat, metallic coat, then clear color. My biggest problem is getting the consistency of the metallic coat right. I've had stellar results with both Tamiya acrylic chrome and that Alclad chrome, but I find that some other metallics like gold and copper will come out as a rough flakey surface if you aren't careful. It's all about getting that thinner-paint ratio right.
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Nov 16, 2014 19:36
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Crosspostin' I'd like to sell you guys something: Montana brand Silver (Metallic) Alcohol Dye Ink This stuff is super, super thin, comes in a dropper bottle, and is incredibly opaque. I'm willing to take up any experiments people would like me to try on this stuff, but basically the thing I've found it's great for right out of the bottle with no other prep or overlay is a brushed aluminum color and texture. Since it's so thin, it shows brush strokes pretty easily. If you use a marker it's not as bad but yeah, it does show brush strokes. While that's not so great for a chrome look, brushed aluminum is cool with me. Here's a pic I took of using this stuff on bare sprue over some text  And here's how it responds to a flash. Very very shiny.  4.27 for 25 ml. I'll be getting some mileage out of this stuff for sure.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:19
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signalnoise posted:Crosspostin' You could try thinning it with some rubbing alcohol and see if it goes on smoother after that.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:32
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You could try thinning it with some rubbing alcohol and see if it goes on smoother after that. I'd rather just spray it to be honest. It's plenty thin enough for that and is actually a recommended method of application. But I will try it for science.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:33
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Luminaflare posted:I thought you just laid down a base coat of black enamel and sprayed a translucent colour on top of it? Not if you want something as good as that picture. That kind of finish takes a lot of skill and patience, for one misstep means you have to start all over again. It is a totally unforgiving method of painting a model and if you want to see more of that path of madness, look and talk to people who build model cars. That showroom finish doesn't come easy.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:54
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Urgh, I've finally found my ideal first MG (Gundam MkII 2.0) but it's gonna annoy me that the torso is too dark, but I'm not confident enough to repaint something yet 
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Nov 16, 2014 22:58
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Ka0 posted:Ultimately, my three goals are to master a "perlescent" white finish that the pros seem to rave about all the time. There's a powder apparently or some product but I don't know it. Maybe its the MGM pearl powders???
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Nov 16, 2014 23:21
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Ka0 posted:Sorry guys, longpost about paints, feel free to skip ahead if you've seen this a million times. I figured this out a while ago, so forgive me if I've remembered wrong, but I think you're basically right. There are three parts to a paint, Pigment, Binder, and Solvent.
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Nov 17, 2014 01:21
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I'm building the HGUC Full Armor Unicorn and the elbow joints are really floppy. Do y'all have any advice o the best way to tighten them up? I was thinking a clear coat on the inside might tighten things up but I wanted to ask someone with more experience before I started spraying.
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Nov 17, 2014 01:33
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Top Hat Cat posted:Maybe its the MGM pearl powders??? Tell me everything you know about this!
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Nov 17, 2014 02:13
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Ka0 posted:Tell me everything you know about this! http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Gundam-Model-Paint-MGM-Prime-Electroplating-Powder-3ml-/321584098629?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item4adfe7ed45 buy this and polish it into a black paintjob Probably wear gloves and dont snort it Its awesome for doing swords and stuff Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Nov 17, 2014 |
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Nov 17, 2014 02:42
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Fauxtool posted:http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Gundam-Model-Paint-MGM-Prime-Electroplating-Powder-3ml-/321584098629?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item4adfe7ed45 If you can find some "Mr Metal Color" it buffs up insanely well. And you only need the plastic to be glossy (or paint over a gloss coat). http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/5029-mr-metal-color/ Its now illegal to import where I am because the thinners used in it melt your brain, but I have a stockpile of around 6 bottles, so will be buffing the parts more vigorously from now on. Wibbleman fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Nov 17, 2014 |
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Nov 17, 2014 03:44
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you know its good because its illegal Sable brushes 
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Nov 17, 2014 04:01
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rohs compliance standards circa 2007
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Nov 17, 2014 04:03
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put warning labels all over my toxic hobby products, but let me make my own decision to wreck my body
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Nov 17, 2014 04:05
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Still don't exactly know how to use those mgm powdersquote:How to use：
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Nov 17, 2014 04:07
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Ka0 posted:Still don't exactly know how to use those mgm powders read my post you unfunny idiot.
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Nov 17, 2014 04:09
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you pick some up with a cotton swab and rub it on a smooth black surface as per those very clear, well translated directions
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Nov 17, 2014 04:09
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Fauxtool posted:you know its good because its illegal Its funny, as the rattle cans of lacquer paint are still allowed, just not the pots of it. And you can still buy MEK as a glue.
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Nov 17, 2014 06:44
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Since ordering the MG GX9900, I've been thinking pretty obsessively about simple stuff I could do to make it look cool. Now I've wound up with a billion questions. I'm not in love with the blue parts of the torso/cuffs/feet. I'm considering spraying them a darker blue, or maybe even black. It's a good excuse to try out spray painting stuff! Anyway, I want to do a panel line wash afterwards, and I'm a bit confused about the order to apply paint, top coat and panel wash. Here's what I've come up with from looking around. 1. Wet sand the pieces I'm painting. 2. Wash those pieces with isopropyl alcohol. 3. Spray with Tamiya grey surface primer. 4. Spray with acrylic blue, or black or whatever. I guess something like Tamiya TS-6 (matte black). 5. Spray acrylic clear gloss coat, TS-13. 6. Apply panel line wash using acrylics from gundam pens mixed with acrylic paint thinner. 7. Spray clear flat top coat, TS-80. Does the surface primer make much difference? poo poo's pricey! Is the gloss coat (step 5) necessary? What does it do? Will doing a panel line wash with acrylic thinner strip the base coats when I remove the excess wash? I'm favouring Tamiya stuff because the hobby shop I was at today had a huge range! Other brands I see recommended, like Mr. Hobby, seem hard to find in South Australia. Any help would be much appreciated!  I'm trying to figure as much as I can now, so that when the kit arrives I can jump straight in.
Frankenstein Dad fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Nov 17, 2014 |
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Nov 17, 2014 11:41
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just sand normally, wet sanding is excessive. you can rinse in water after there are many cheaper and equally good primers like vallejo's you dont use acrylic thinners on acrylic paints or gloss for the obvious reason that it works on other acrylics. you could do the lining with enamel though i would gloss, line and flat coat the rest of the model to keep it uniform Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 12:16 on Nov 17, 2014 |
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Nov 17, 2014 12:09
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Fauxtool posted:Lol dur they cant use a very hard to learn language, loving hilarious. You are building japanese models, this cant be the first time you have run into engrish. Thank you, this was really insightful, helpful and mature.
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Nov 17, 2014 12:26
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Fauxtool posted:just sand normally, wet sanding is excessive. you can rinse in water after Aight, thanks for the tips! I guess I'll just ask the dude at the shop about their spray can primers. SO, I puzzled out that the gloss coat is to make it easier to remove excess panel line wash from the matte painted parts. Could I just use a gloss paint instead and skip the gloss coat? I assume gloss black vs matte black will look pretty much the same once the flat top coat is on, but what do I know? (Nothing.)
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Nov 17, 2014 12:56
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Fauxtool posted:just sand normally, wet sanding is excessive. you can rinse in water after Of course you wet sand, why wouldn't you?
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Nov 17, 2014 13:33
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So kind of a weird request here: I'm looking for manuals. Specifically MG GP03, Unicorn vOVA, Victory/V-Dash, F91, Crossbone X1 Full Cloth, Sword/Launcher Strike, Exia, Phenex and the (I doubt anyone will give me these) the HG 1/100 V2 Assault and V2 Buster. If any of you are willing to part with those, contact me at RBlitzman@gmail.com and we can work something out.Frankenstein Dad posted:I'm not in love with the blue parts of the torso/cuffs/feet. I'm considering spraying them a darker blue, or maybe even black. quote:1. Wet sand the pieces I'm painting. Step 2 is overkill; just wash with soapy water. Also you should prime/paint the pieces with two separate coats, not all at once, making sure to wait at least an hour in between. You'll also want to wait a while (preferably overnight) between priming and painting and painting and top coating. Gundam markers aren't acrylic so trying to use an alcohol/water based thinner will not work. quote:Does the surface primer make much difference? poo poo's pricey! Yes, though if you're going from blue to darker blue/black it's not as necessary. quote:Is the gloss coat (step 5) necessary? What does it do? It seals in the paint, makes the surface smoother so the panel wash can flow better, and makes the surface stickier so the decals adhere better. quote:Will doing a panel line wash with acrylic thinner strip the base coats when I remove the excess wash? Yes. You're planning on using an acrylic gloss coat, so obviously acrylic thinner would go right though that. That's why people usually use enamels. Frankenstein Dad posted:Could I just use a gloss paint instead and skip the gloss coat? Gloss paint just matches the sheen, it doesn't keep the properties of a gloss coat. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Nov 17, 2014 |
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Nov 17, 2014 14:04
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BlitzBlast posted:So kind of a weird request here: I'm looking for manuals. Specifically MG GP03, Unicorn vOVA, Victory/V-Dash, F91, Crossbone X1 Full Cloth, Sword/Launcher Strike, Exia, and Phenex. If any of you are willing to part with those, contact me at RBlitzman@gmail.com and we can work something out. Try looking them up on HobbySearch Japan. They show all the manual pages in the item listings for kits  .
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Nov 17, 2014 14:10
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...No, I mean I actually want the physical manuals. Otherwise I'd just go to dalong.
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Nov 17, 2014 14:15
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BlitzBlast posted:...No, I mean I actually want the physical manuals. Otherwise I'd just go to dalong. Fair enough. Though Dalong doesn't list the full set of instructions, only three pages or so.
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Nov 17, 2014 14:16
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I think you need to take a look at dalong again.
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Nov 17, 2014 14:19
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