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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:Can Danes be big doofy couch potatoes? Yes but unless you're planning on buying a house after your current one I would caution against a dog that large. While you rent I would stick to the 40 pounds and under range since many leases put a 35-40 lb weight restriction on dogs and having a really big dog will seriously limit your housing options.
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Feb 25, 2015 02:03
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Yea I was only wondering. I'm pretty much set on going to Idaho and getting my 10 year old dog. She probably doesn't have many years left and I bet she'd like to spend them with her original family 
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Feb 25, 2015 03:35
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what sort of dog is she? depending on a bunch of things (size, breed, general state of health) she could last quite a few years yet.
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Feb 25, 2015 03:39
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thatbastardken posted:what sort of dog is she? depending on a bunch of things (size, breed, general state of health) she could last quite a few years yet. I don't know. The shelter said lab/schnauzer because she has floppy lab ears, short wiry hair, and a  beard. She was about 40 pounds when I left in 2010. I'll try to find a picture that is some one current.Here's my dog  
lite_sleepr fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 03:50
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So this is my new little monster, Rhea.   I have had labs and a shiba during my life and this whole Jack Russell thing is definitely something else. I knew she'd be a tiny little bundle of energy but holy hell I was not expecting quite this much. We're currently going through the "I need to bite everything ever" phase at 10 weeks old, which we're slowly curbing though it's the ole' "puppy gets riled up and then wants to play nip at your hands/feet" routine. Then she has days like today where she sleeps on my hip while I nap on the couch most of the afternoon. She just wants to play with my cats but they want no part in it just yet. She did get to play with my parents puppy and their bengals, which was good. She takes to new people/animals really well, which I'm glad to see. I can't wait for it to warm up a lot more so we can spend more time outside, because it's loving COLD in Michigan right now and I worry about taking her outside for longer than 5 minutes or so. It also doesn't help that pretty much all of the harnesses or collars we've picked up (2 of each) don't really fit her yet... but probably will in another week or two.
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Feb 26, 2015 05:48
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Well, I have just joined the new dog owner club, and I have had my initiation this morning. Yesterday we adopted a one year old (She'll turn one on March 3rd) Corgi/Black Lab mix named Sophie! We brought her home after supper and had my in-laws over to fawn over her and she was great and (mostly) well-behaved with them, us, and their 5 year old daughter. It seems we have a problem, though, as I think she has a lot of separation anxiety, or she just wanted to give us a solid "gently caress you" this morning. Last night we introduced her to the crate and she did very well when we went to sleep. We locked her in with us in the bedroom, and she did a little rattling around and whined a little, but eventually went to sleep. At 1:30 in the morning she started making a lot more noise and so I got up and took her outside where she did a 45 second Austin Powers-esque pee, and then back into the crate where she settled in for the night. So far, awesome! However, every morning I drive my wife to work and come home about half an hour later. She (the dog, not my wife) didn't really want to go into the crate but didn't put up much fight, so we stuck her in there and left. When I came back I expected to hear some whining and maybe some scrabbling since she knew I would hear her, but everything was quiet. Eerily quiet, I would say. So when I went to see her, she was sitting quietly in her crate, which now smelled like the devil's rear end in a top hat because she had taken a massive dump in it and tracked it everywhere, including on her new kong toy. I took her out, bather her, washed the crate, and now I'm at a bit of a loss. I don't know if we should continue putting her in the crate for these short periods or what. She's very busy and likes to explore and get into everything like any good puppy, so I'm wary of leaving her with carte blanche around the house, especially if she's going to act out like that. I guess my question is, how do I proceed here? I need to go have a shower later, and I'd like to put her in her crate, but I don't want to traumatize her three times a day. Will she just get used to the fact that we're out for half an hour twice a day and I'm worrying for nothing, or is there something I should be doing to comfort her or something?
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Feb 26, 2015 16:58
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:I dunno, I'd be a little pissed if I took in a dog and raised it for five years only for its original owners to reappear and be like "ok I want it back now!" Well she's not like that.
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Feb 26, 2015 17:22
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Natron posted:Well, I have just joined the new dog owner club, and I have had my initiation this morning. You should probably take your dog out for a poo poo a few times a day..
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Feb 26, 2015 17:26
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Math You posted:You should probably take your dog out for a poo poo a few times a day.. Yeah, I probably should have added in the part where I took her for a decently long (about 15 - 20 mins) walk before we had breakfast. All she did was pee, though, and I had planned on taking her again when I got home, but as it turned out she didn't need to go again! Perhaps breakfast should happen first tomorrow morning, THEN maybe we can walk some turds out of her.
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Feb 26, 2015 17:57
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Natron posted:Yeah, I probably should have added in the part where I took her for a decently long (about 15 - 20 mins) walk before we had breakfast. All she did was pee, though, and I had planned on taking her again when I got home, but as it turned out she didn't need to go again! Perhaps breakfast should happen first tomorrow morning, THEN maybe we can walk some turds out of her. You're going to need to teach her that going outside = business first. It'll take some work and might leave you standing around a long time waiting for her to take her first few shits, but it should become her first coarse of action pretty quickly. Be sure to reward dumps with good treats. Can't really overstate how great it is to never worry you're leaving the dog with an overly full colon/bladder.
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Feb 26, 2015 18:25
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Yeah, you need to designate a spot near your house as The Place to Poop. Walk your dog there and wait until pooping happens (this may take a while the first few times). Reward this with tons of praise and a treat, then continue with the walk. It shouldn't take too long before your dog realises that pooping is what you do before you go on an awesome fun walk. Walking her until she poops will make her associate pooping with being taken home and encourage her to hold it for longer. Also I hope this is obvious but don't discipline your dog for pooping inside, the message they usually take from it is that you don't like seeing them poop, which leads to poo poo in hidden places and a dog that refuses to go when you're out on a walk. 
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Feb 26, 2015 18:40
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Party Boat posted:Yeah, you need to designate a spot near your house as The Place to Poop. Walk your dog there and wait until pooping happens (this may take a while the first few times). Reward this with tons of praise and a treat, then continue with the walk. It shouldn't take too long before your dog realises that pooping is what you do before you go on an awesome fun walk. Walking her until she poops will make her associate pooping with being taken home and encourage her to hold it for longer. But how do you know she will poop? I mean I guess the tactic is too walk her untill you see she is pooping and bring her home quickly? I really want to buy a dog soon sorry for the apparently stupid question.
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Feb 26, 2015 18:45
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No, other way round. Get the dog to understand that pooping is something that happens at the start of the walk and the sooner they do it the sooner they can romp around and sniff things. You should avoid taking the dog home as soon as they poop because then they realise that their arse controls the length of the walk. And don't worry - if a dog hasn't pooped in a few hours it probably has poop ready to go. They're really good at making the stuff.
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Feb 26, 2015 19:02
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Also you could try getting your dog riled up and play a bit, and then go out for a walk to get some business done. Usually puppies need to eliminate after play. Just make sure she can't wander off.
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Feb 26, 2015 19:16
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Party Boat posted:It shouldn't take too long before your dog realises that pooping is what you do before you go on an awesome fun walk. Walking her until she poops will make her associate pooping with being taken home and encourage her to hold it for longer. ...So that's why the youngest dog actively resists pooping on walks until he has to. 
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Feb 26, 2015 20:25
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Party Boat posted:Yeah, you need to designate a spot near your house as The Place to Poop. Walk your dog there and wait until pooping happens (this may take a while the first few times). Reward this with tons of praise and a treat, then continue with the walk. It shouldn't take too long before your dog realises that pooping is what you do before you go on an awesome fun walk. Walking her until she poops will make her associate pooping with being taken home and encourage her to hold it for longer. This is an awesome idea. I didn't discipline her or anything because I feel like sitting in a confined space with your own poo poo is probably punishment enough for anyone. I'll definitely try and establish a pooping space in our back yard where we park. It's close and once we get it done we can go for a quick loop around the block or something. I usually like to do 3 big long walks a day, so if she figures out that doing your business equals long walk, that should be good. The only problem I have is that sometimes the dog WILL want to poop and GTFO because on days like today where it's -45 with windchill, going inside is the reward.
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Feb 26, 2015 20:37
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The only downside to conditioning them to poop all the time is that ours will go 4 or 5 times a day if we take her out in intervals that allow it. Seriously though, there is nothing worse than begging your dog to take a poo poo because you know they haven't gone in 12 hours and you have to leave. Get that figured out quickly and you'll thank yourself.
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Feb 26, 2015 22:05
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The trick to pooping on cue (probably the most practical thing I have ever taught my dog, ever) is making sure they're getting rewarded for popping a squat. As soon as you see that "I'm sniffing in that way that means I'm about to take a dump," that's when you want to say "go poop" (but not so loud or enthusiastic that they startle or get distracted). When they're pooping, have reward party and then treat treat treat treat, then is a good time to have playtime. Afterward, nap in crate is also great practice.
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Feb 27, 2015 01:01
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Just for a little expansion on this subject, my pup pees and most of the time poops right away. But on those times she darts around does puppy stuff for a couple minutes, how do I try to curb this behaviour and get her to go right away? I already ply her with treats/good girls/pets whenever she goes(and it's working really well! 3 days in and she already goes to the door and whines when she needs to get out) and I just want her to get in the habit of going right away. As an aside, I can't believe how much better and faster the positive house training method is than the one my parents used where they rub the dog's nose in the piss then give it a smack.
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Feb 27, 2015 01:44
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So this lady's lovely rear end chihuahua got out of her apartment again and attacked my dog (again) while my puppy was on her leash. I kicked the chihuahua in the side to get it away, punting it maybe two feet away with the top of my foot. The chihuahua's owner was pissed, but the dog went back into the apartment just fine. The owner yelled at me, and I told her to control her animal. Like I said this is the second time her dog attacked mine. Am I in the wrong? It wasn't a hard kick, just enough to get the dog away from mine and my leg between the two. My puppy wasn't fighting back, she was mostly shaken and potentially thought the chihuahua was playing with her.
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Feb 27, 2015 03:19
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I over enthusiastically rewarded pooping when I was house training Pistol and he decided for maximum treat output from me that he would ration his poop and have multiple poops per walk. So he'd pop a squat, squeeze out one turd, get a treat party, walk another 20-30 feet, pop a squat, poop out another turd, repeat till empty.
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Feb 27, 2015 03:47
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ButWhatIf posted:The trick to pooping on cue (probably the most practical thing I have ever taught my dog, ever) is making sure they're getting rewarded for popping a squat. As soon as you see that "I'm sniffing in that way that means I'm about to take a dump," that's when you want to say "go poop" (but not so loud or enthusiastic that they startle or get distracted). When they're pooping, have reward party and then treat treat treat treat, then is a good time to have playtime. Afterward, nap in crate is also great practice. Finally I can be excited about poop in public and outside of exclusive circles.
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Feb 27, 2015 04:06
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Verisimilidude posted:So this lady's lovely rear end chihuahua got out of her apartment again and attacked my dog (again) while my puppy was on her leash. I kicked the chihuahua in the side to get it away, punting it maybe two feet away with the top of my foot. The chihuahua's owner was pissed, but the dog went back into the apartment just fine. The owner yelled at me, and I told her to control her animal. No, you're not in the wrong, gently caress anyone with stupid off leash/loose dogs. You didn't hurt it and just moved it away. You're fine.
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Feb 27, 2015 04:06
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Superconsndar posted:No, you're not in the wrong, gently caress anyone with stupid off leash/loose dogs. You didn't hurt it and just moved it away. You're fine. I expect she'll tell everyone willing to listen how you're a horrible dog kicker. I'd consider informing your apartment office before she has a chance to paint the situation.
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Feb 27, 2015 09:39
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Verisimilidude posted:So this lady's lovely rear end chihuahua got out of her apartment again and attacked my dog (again) while my puppy was on her leash. I kicked the chihuahua in the side to get it away, punting it maybe two feet away with the top of my foot. The chihuahua's owner was pissed, but the dog went back into the apartment just fine. The owner yelled at me, and I told her to control her animal. One of the biggest parts of letting your dog run solo is making sure you can control the thing enough that it wont be an issue to anyone else, You did the right thing its not like you cracked its ribs or anything just enough to make it gently caress off. I never really got around to doing a proper looky at my new ball of trouble/Responsibility post. I got this little ball of energy and trouble Lucca from a collie breeder on the bonnie shores of loch lomond, Hes fantastically well behaved usually and is obedient enough that i can walk him off the leash with little to no issue. Hes somwhat spoiled in where he gets to sleep and serves as a very very timley alarm clock.   
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Feb 27, 2015 16:49
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So, we're going through Hana's first heat cycle and for anyone else who is considering also letting them do 1 cycle before spaying them... Just loving don't. Besides having a dog that's miserable as gently caress as the hormones are running wild, that you can't let off leash unless you are *certain* that no intact males will turn up, it's also quite the mess. Glad we only have to do this once.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:00
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So, we're going through Hana's first heat cycle and for anyone else who is considering also letting them do 1 cycle before spaying them... What's the logic behind letting them have 1 cycle first? I haven't read up anything on it because the dog I adopted was fixed already.
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Feb 28, 2015 05:48
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One older school of thought is that it allows their bodies to mature, but as far as I can tell, there's little real evidence to back it up. Spaying can supposedly increase the risk of various types of cancer, but then there's also research that suggests that spaying will decrease the chance of mammary cancer. It was part of our contract and as we A) like our breeders and consider them friends now and B) are going to use their vet, there wasn't really much discussion about not having her go through the first heat cycle.
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Feb 28, 2015 06:11
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Letting them go through a first cycle also makes the procedure more difficult for the vets since it significantly increases the capillary action in that region. Leaving nuts on a male to let them beef up a bit is simply a thousand times less of a pain in the rear end than leaving a bitch intact for X cycles.
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Feb 28, 2015 14:40
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Verisimilidude posted:So this lady's lovely rear end chihuahua got out of her apartment again and attacked my dog (again) while my puppy was on her leash. I kicked the chihuahua in the side to get it away, punting it maybe two feet away with the top of my foot. The chihuahua's owner was pissed, but the dog went back into the apartment just fine. The owner yelled at me, and I told her to control her animal. Just want to add to the "you're not wrong" chorus. I lived in a neighborhood where a few people let their dogs off-leash (and unsupervised) constantly, and I took to carrying a big wooden walking stick to use against those dogs if they attacked mine or tried to get in my reactive dog's face. It sucks to do but you have to protect your dog. We have leash laws (and most apartment complexes have leash requirements) for a reason. I do think Kerfuffle is right and you might want to report this preemptively, though. The Chi's owner does sound like the type to complain and paint you as the bad guy.
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Feb 28, 2015 21:45
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We're doing clicker training with our new puppy, we've had her for a week and she's just about 11 weeks old. Because we're trying to be aggressive in training good behaviour we end up giving her lots of treats throughout the day. The treat package says up to like 9 treats a day which we are significantly exceeding. Just want to see if its normal to be treating this often with clicker training? I dont want to end up with a fat sick dog. We're adjusting her normal mealtimes slightly to account for the additional treats.
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Mar 1, 2015 20:52
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It's normal to treat a lot when clicker training. Remember that you should be looking at pea/fingernail sized treats so you might need to cut up whatever treats you have. I reduce the amount of kibble my dog gets if he gets a lot of training done that day.
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Mar 1, 2015 20:56
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Xtanstic posted:It's normal to treat a lot when clicker training. Remember that you should be looking at pea/fingernail sized treats so you might need to cut up whatever treats you have. I reduce the amount of kibble my dog gets if he gets a lot of training done that day. Oh good, thanks  they are tiny training treats which is nice.
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Mar 1, 2015 22:46
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It's not uncommon for me to go through a sizable portion of a bag of treats (or a whole bag if it's a smaller bag) during a training session. I take my dog to a 90 minute agility class weekly and when it's not our turn to run we work on his dog reactivity which means I'm basically shoveling treats into his mouth for over an hour. I do break up the training treats into 3-4 little pieces each though, the dog doesn't care how big the treat is they only care that they get a treat in the first place.
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Mar 1, 2015 22:51
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Some dogs will work for kibble; so if you're concerned it might be worth seeing if she is one of those dogs and then you can just take a portion of her regular meals and feed it as treats during that day's training sessions instead; I do that pretty often. You're probably fine as-is though.
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Mar 1, 2015 23:05
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I usually go through about a pound of beef in training classes. Just adjust their diets a bit so they aren't consuming too many calories and keep an eye out for stomach upset if the treats are really rich or your dog has a sensitive stomach.
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Mar 1, 2015 23:34
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Thanks for all the advice, everyone!
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Mar 2, 2015 01:01
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Math You posted:Leaving nuts on a male to let them beef up a bit is simply a thousand times less of a pain in the rear end than leaving a bitch intact for X cycles. So about this... Sherlock has decided 1) he really wants to keep his baby canines and 2) one of them broke and doesn't look like the remaining part it's going anywhere. The adult canine is erupting too far inward to push it out. We took him in to get the teeth looked at, and we walked out having scheduled him for surgery in 2 weeks, where they will yank his 2.5 baby canines and while they're at it rip his balls out. He's just 6 months old. Is there any major concern here or is this just fine? I asked the vet a few times to make sure. He kind of hemmed and hawed a bit, because previously their advice was to wait as long as possible to neuter so as to take advantage of all the fun hormones. He finally decided that at this point, it's not going to be a huge advantage to leave him intact. "Legally" we need to neuter him by 10 months per the breeder, but that's not a real concern. I'm sure it's not a big deal, especially when weighed against multiple surgeries, but we just want to make sure we're not going to totally stunt his growth. He's 20 lbs already, so we figure he's on track to be upper 20s. bonus giant pictures that I forgot to resize before I uploaded them:     His nickname is goof-rear end.
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Mar 4, 2015 01:28
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Actually the typical recommendation (at least from dentists and surgeons) would be to do them as separate surgeries. Any dental procedure is likely to release bacteria into the bloodstream, which increases the risk of infection at the surgery site.
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Mar 4, 2015 01:56
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 05:04 |
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My vet refused to remove teeth and neuter in one shot as well. It worked out better in the end since I got his teeth done by a canine dentist instead of a regular vet.
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Mar 4, 2015 02:46
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