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Suzaku posted:Well, using a metal file for anything other than major plastic removal is a really bad idea. You're better off with 320-grit sandpaper to start instead, unless you've got some major sprue nubs to start sanding down. The metal file should never, ever touch the part itself, unless it's to remove a ton of plastic. The metal absolutely never touches the part, yeah; I decided to be extra sure of that after I tested the thing for the first time on a spare runner. I'm still very glad I thought to do that before starting on my SD FA Unicorn.  I've had the same luck with popsicle stick+sandpaper, honestly, which is why I've been sticking to the buffing bar. But it's been long enough that I'm probably better at sanding, so maybe a sanding stick would be a better idea, now. e: Bimmi posted:It is really, really difficult to keep from rounding off flat surfaces when sanding. I have a lot of practice and specialized tools for the job and I still gently caress up all the time. It doesn't take much, tell you what. I'm making an assumption based on what I've seen you post that you've been at this for a long-rear end time, so if you still have trouble with it I guess I should half-resign myself to rounded edges and just resolve to take as much time as it needs. Zwingley fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 04:07
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And when it comes to detail, if you end up losing some panel lines, that's pretty normal on especially older kits. Those you just have to rescribe.
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Mar 5, 2015 04:10
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Zwingley posted:I'm making an assumption based on what I've seen you post that you've been at this for a long-rear end time, so if you still have trouble with it I guess I should half-resign myself to rounded edges and just resolve to take as much time as it needs. It's doable, you just need to use a fairly firm sanding stick and keep a close eye on your strokes at all times. That's more difficult now that my eyesight's gone to poo poo but I do alright as long as my attention doesn't falter. It only takes two or three bad strokes to screw something up. It was a lot easier with older kits when the sculpts were cruder and the tolerances not nearly as fine, but you take the good with the bad I guess.
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Mar 5, 2015 04:17
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The Lightning is actually what made me finally ask, because it's a pretty rad kit that I like a lot and I wish I could have done it justice. Best picture I can get with my phone, but I lost the raised edge along the backs of both legs halfway down the piece going after the nub. I mean, part of the problem was that shoddy trimming had left that drat stress mark that I wanted to get out yet honestly knew wasn't going to happen ever, but still. I can't exactly re-scribe that, so it comes down to getting better and trying again when I have more money. On the other hand, this example totally proves that I need a more rigid sanding stick. 
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Mar 5, 2015 04:49
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That whole part looks like a goddamn nightmare to clean up, so I definitely feel for ya.
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Mar 5, 2015 04:56
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Mad Lupine posted:I did use progressive sanding (400 to 700 to 1200), so I don't think it's too bad. I use this sanding pad that is 4000 grit, it brings just about anything back to normal after I buff. Always wet sand, you don't want the dust to get stuck and wipe off the sandpaper when it gets dirty or get a new piece. Bimmi posted:It is really, really difficult to keep from rounding off flat surfaces when sanding. Try switching sanding directions. So like a few left to right then switch then go up to down and switch. Your hand is going to drift no matter what and your goal is just to make the area flush. If you feel yourself using alot of pressure test your sand paper. Grab a piece of the same grit and feel it. Sometimes you would have worn the grit down and that is causing you to apply more pressure then you should. If your changing the shape, then raise the grit. I used to use coarse sanding sticks all the time, I've switched up to medium as it gives me alittle more time before I deform it. Zwingley posted:The Lightning is actually what made me finally ask, because it's a pretty rad kit that I like a lot and I wish I could have done it justice. That actually looks pretty good. Those are the results you are going to see with out going alot further into the plastic. Flat coat will cover most of it except the really dark spot. Sanding can't really get rid of nub marks. Sure you can level it out but something is going to be left. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 05:04
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Tenzarin posted:That actually looks pretty good. Those are the results you are going to see with out going alot further into the plastic. Flat coat will cover most of it except the really dark spot. Sanding can't really get rid of nub marks. Sure you can level it out but something is going to be left. Huh. Should I have sanded through the first raised edge and just leveled the piece to the actual corner? I'm not even remotely sure, honestly.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:24
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Zwingley posted:Huh. Should I have sanded through the first raised edge and just leveled the piece to the actual corner? I'm not even remotely sure, honestly. The biggest goal is to make it look good to you. A rule of thumb I use, is that if any part I'm going to sand fits with another piece like an arm or a leg. I put the 2 parts almost completely together and then I sand. Then I pull it apart, put all the inner junk in and snap it together. I find this keeps connecting edges flush.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:32
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Tenzarin posted:Try switching sanding directions. So like a few left to right then switch then go up to down and switch. Your hand is going to drift no matter what and your goal is just to make the area flush. I've found this approach more likely to cause problems, actually. The key as I see it is to keep your strokes uniform and your pressure even. There is always a tendency to apply more pressure at the tail end of a stroke, which is what deforms your nice flat surface, and the rounder it gets the more each stroke will worsen it. Once the damage is done, switching directions isn't going to help much. I literally have to get my eye right up to the parts and make sure that the sanding stick is perfectly flat on the plane at all times. Reading glasses help even if your eyes don't suck. Ultimately, if you don't paint, you need to make a choice between completely erasing nubs or not deforming the surface of the part. I personally have a certain level of "good enough" that looks basically clean but avoids getting too far in the deep end of oversanding and fidelity loss. And all this poo poo becomes MUCH easier when you actually prime and paint.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:32
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Bimmi posted:I've found this approach more likely to cause problems, actually. The key as I see it is to keep your strokes uniform and your pressure even. I find it helps just not to repeat going in the same direction for the entire sanding process. It levels out my rounding while keeping your pressure low also helps alot.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:36
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Literally "different strokes for different folks," hah. The reality is that advice helps but you ultimately have to learn by doing, and the correct method is whatever gets you the best results.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:46
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I feel like the key thing to remember about this is that you, as the builder, are almost certainly going to be the only one who actually notices and cares about nubs 99% of the time. Unless you've got a really good camera setup going that stuff is just not going to show up on pictures, and anybody you show it too either won't care or won't notice. So poorly sanded nubs can be a killer, but don't spend all your time agonizing about them.
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Mar 5, 2015 06:16
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Gunpla Thread: Carefully Stroke Your Models
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Mar 5, 2015 07:13
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So that Tamiya for Model Airplanes paint I'd sprayed on my Zaku II resisted 48 hours in Fairy Power Spray and a week in Cif oven cleaner, but pure Dettol got the paint off my test runners in just 8 hours. I left the plastic runners in for 20 hours total and polycap runners in for about 8 with no damage to either, so I've just dropped my parts in a tupperware full of Dettol. At least it smells relatively nice.
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Mar 5, 2015 09:34
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Glad you've found something that works but I wouldn't let them soak for much longer than that, and you'll want to give those parts a good long detergent bath and multiple rinses afterwards.
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Mar 5, 2015 09:50
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Yeah, I'm not leaving them in for more than 8, then I'll give them a wash afterwards. If the paint isn't out they can always go back for a little bit.
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Mar 5, 2015 10:11
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Heads up using dettol though, if you don't thoroughly get rid of the paint before rinsing, water + paint + dettol = the stickiest mess the world has ever known. It becomes a LOT harder to remove if you remove water, for some reason.
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Mar 5, 2015 11:21
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http://blog.livedoor.jp/hacchaka/archives/51943179.html i didn't realize the g-portent had like actual hips until now, and it manages to be more feminine than the nobel gundam
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Mar 5, 2015 16:36
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I am amazed they managed to resist making it pink, so points for that I guess.
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Mar 5, 2015 16:56
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On the topic of sanding: I'm sure I've mentioned it before, but if you want to get a ridiculous shine off your plastic then you can use cutting compounds after sanding. These are liquid abrasives that come in all kinds of varieties ("T-Cut" for car paintwork, Brasso is a metal polishing compound that works with acrylics, toothpaste, jeweller's polishing paste, etc) so you can play with those to get the results you desire.
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Mar 5, 2015 16:58
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muike posted:http://blog.livedoor.jp/hacchaka/archives/51943179.html I'm glad that both it and the Transient come with matching stands. This should just be standard.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:06
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Heads up using dettol though, if you don't thoroughly get rid of the paint before rinsing, water + paint + dettol = the stickiest mess the world has ever known. Yep, can confirm this. Managed to get 90% of the paint off 90% of the pieces, going to give the few reluctant bits another couple hours in there. Sinuses are full of Dettol and hands are covered in paint from when I rinsed the pieces, but we're getting there. Good thing I was planning on repainting the affected parts anyway.
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Mar 5, 2015 18:06
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Just got my hands on the Wave Space Settlement model kit and the box art alone was worth like 30 bucks to me. e oh my god it comes with a sketch book and i didn't know the designer was from studio nue
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Mar 5, 2015 19:39
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muike posted:Just got my hands on the Wave Space Settlement model kit and the box art alone was worth like 30 bucks to me. Oh, crap. I knew there was something else I wanted to buy this month. Where'd you get it from? HLJ?
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Mar 5, 2015 19:59
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Yeah but I think you'll have to go somewhere else for it because it's already listed as discontinued iirc e: nope march restock
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Mar 5, 2015 21:18
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So got and assembled RG Freedom. It LOOKS great, and was fun to build. The posing...the problem isn't it being back heavy, I've slapped it onto an AB2, the problem is floppy god-drat joints. The bottom wing spike things just hang straight down, with no friction at all, and the arms can't really hold up either the gun or shield. At least the wings, when deployed, are totally impressive enough that I can just have it hovering in a neutral pose, and it still looks intimidating. Gyro Zeppeli fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 21:29
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What's up with no MG G-Self yet?
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Mar 6, 2015 01:34
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:So got and assembled RG Freedom. The arm thing is just yours, mine holds its rifle and shield just fine. But yes, that drat wing fin can get floopy. You might want to pinch it a little to make sure it's seated properly.
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Mar 6, 2015 02:03
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boom boom boom posted:What's up with no MG G-Self yet? MGs never really seem to be announced while a show is airing.
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Mar 6, 2015 02:08
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Is it to avoid cannibalizing HG sales?
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Mar 6, 2015 04:15
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Yosuke posted:MGs never really seem to be announced while a show is airing. Bandai stopped making nongraded 1/100 kits for currently running shows after 00, so AGE and Build Fighters both got MGs while they were still on the air. It's not really clear why Build fighters Try and G-Reco don't have any MGs yet.
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Mar 6, 2015 04:40
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boom boom boom posted:Is it to avoid cannibalizing HG sales? Well, that and they also probably want to make sure there's enough demand before spending all the time and resources on engineering an MG kit.
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Mar 6, 2015 04:45
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Bimmi posted:Bandai stopped making nongraded 1/100 kits for currently running shows after 00, so AGE and Build Fighters both got MGs while they were still on the air. Forgot about that detail, but the line in itself is always not really something they try to get out quickly. Given how the BF Master Grades were all retools of the MG Strike RM ver, MKII 2.0 and the Red Frame, it probably wasn't hard for them to knock those out while it was airing. AGE's MG line ended up dying before they bothered with anything beyond the Dark hound for Gen3. Since a lot more thought goes into an MG design, I can imagine not wanting to do MGs as the show airs again, more so if the series isn't well received. Fan reception pretty much plays a big part in what gets made too and all. Yosuke fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 05:04
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I think that's true, but I still find it odd that there's no sign of a G-Self since that show's reception is pretty much a known quantity by now. Build Fighters Try completely scrapped the first season's approach by going with designs that can't be built off existing molds, so the lack of MGs there is a bit more obvious.
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Mar 6, 2015 08:11
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Bimmi posted:I think that's true, but I still find it odd that there's no sign of a G-Self since that show's reception is pretty much a known quantity by now. The Build Fighters Try situation is probably more that the HG kits are 1:1 scale, not 1:144. I don't doubt that we might see some, but you're not going to see as big an interest in BF Master Grades when Bandai can push literally "the same kit [favourite character] uses" at a much cheaper price point.
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Mar 6, 2015 08:17
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The Build Fighters MGs always felt a bit out of place to me for that very reason. And they either sold very well or very poorly depending on who you ask. Still, considering how hard they pushed the Burning Gundam, the lack of an MG at this late date is kind of a puzzler.
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Mar 6, 2015 08:31
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I wish that the Build Fighters MGs sold at least somewhat well, I've never been happier waiting on a MG until I got the Build Strike, because goddamn, that thing looks amazing.
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Mar 6, 2015 08:46
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Painting opinion sollicitation: I'm trying to get this Zaku II F2 to look like a Zeon suit while using as much grey and white as possible (because those are the two primer colours I have and  ). Which of these looks the least terrible:The  The white stripe:  White is obviously the traditional EFSF colour and there's Shin Matsunaga on top of that, so I can't abuse it too much. Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 11:43
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Painting opinion sollicitation: I'm trying to get this Zaku II F2 to look like a Zeon suit while using as much grey and white as possible (because those are the two primer colours I have and The White Stripe, and do the rest of the hip skirts in white too.
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Mar 6, 2015 12:17
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Definitely the middle one, even if it's the least original. The others break up the silhouette in unflattering ways.
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Mar 6, 2015 12:20
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