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Spookydonut posted:I need to borrow my dad's set-saw to build some shelves in the garage while the gf is away for 6 weeks, the plan is to have it all tidied up and all the random crap stored neatly. Metal is much stronger so metal brackets will take up less space and leave more usable room underneath. This may or may not matter to you. In my compact house I constantly think about that stuff.
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Mar 7, 2015 04:23
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Bad Munki posted:My only hesitation with the in-floor heat is that I *also* want to have a raised floor that I can run ducting through, and that would basically make a heat-trapping bubble that would greatly hinder the effectiveness of the heated floor. Would it? Heat rises. It might be slightly less efficient but still effective.
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Mar 7, 2015 05:47
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So I got some things. I don't do large wood stuff like a lot of you (I build little wooden boats), so I bought myself a little tiny lathe: I have only played with it a little bit, just messing around, no real projects on it yet. I got a 3 jaw chuck, a 4 jaw chuck, a set of chisels, and a drill-chuck for the tail-stock. I'll use it for making very small items that I need to replicate (quoins, belaying pins, etc.), custom parts for little scratch built stuff like the spokes on a ships wheel, tapering masts and yards, etc. Also, while I was talking to a neighbor about his full size cabinet type wood working, he suddenly took me into his back yard, and there on the patio he had a couple things:   Neither of these is really super high quality (Craftsman and Ryobi), but for roughing out large parts they should be fine, and the price is hard to beat - he said I could have them both for a single $50 bill. Done! For the size of wood I'll be working with I need to get new blades for both of them, but the band saw has a fence, mitre gauge, and work light, and both of them work fine.
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Mar 7, 2015 07:54
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I'm feeling pretty smug right now, fixed a 3ph induction motor with a broken winding. Managed to find where it was broken (just a single wire) and soldered it and applied lacquer and now I just tested it and it runs just fine, 6 months ago I didn't know how an induction motor worked even: timg for size
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Mar 7, 2015 15:31
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wormil posted:Would it? Heat rises. It might be slightly less efficient but still effective. Yeah, it wouldn't stop the heat altogether, but you would certainly have a warmer bubble of air underneath the false floor as the shop heated up. I've always imagined plywood for the flooring in that case, which would be fairly insulating. I think more than anything, it would be less responsive, so if there was a cold snap or something, it'd take (significantly?) longer for the temperature in the shop to respond. As opposed to if, say, the shop was in a more constant climate, like a cave. Then it wouldn't matter at all once the temperature equalized. 
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Mar 8, 2015 00:58
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If you're making a raised floor why not run ducting and use forced air heat?
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Mar 8, 2015 04:04
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I'm thinking of building a drum sander. There's plans and instructions available from stumpy nubs (YouTube channel and web site). Anyway, they recommend a 1 to 1.5 HP motor to run the thing which is fine. It looks like I could buy one new locally for about $200. I've been keeping an eye on craigslist but pickings have been pretty slim. My question is, am I dumb for considering an electric lawn mower motor? Are those fundamentally different than the type of motor that is used in things like table saws? Any other type of motor I should look for to find one for cheap?
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Mar 8, 2015 04:34
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oxbrain posted:If you're making a raised floor why not run ducting and use forced air heat? Or put the radiant heating in the raised portion of the floor. Squibbles posted:Any other type of motor I should look for to find one for cheap? You'll want to look for a Totally Enclosed, Fan Cooled (TEFC) motor, since you're going to be surrounding it with dust. I can't tell you one way or the other about the lawn mower motor, since I've never seen an electric mower in person. You'll also want to make sure the RPM is acceptable for your design. Usually the small motors that claim they're high horsepower, like circular saw motors, do so by running faster than a typical general purpose motor.
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Mar 8, 2015 04:50
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Squibbles posted:I'm thinking of building a drum sander. There's plans and instructions available from stumpy nubs (YouTube channel and web site). If you can find an old school electric motor repair place that somehow is still in business, I bet they'd have something they would sell you a lot cheaper than $200. You might also hunt Craigslist for a cheap sander or table saw etc. that someone is basically giving away, and rob the motor from that. Or hell, an old used washing machine or dryer probably has a motor that would be sufficient?
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Mar 8, 2015 05:08
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Here's the drum sander http://www.stumpynubs.com/snw50.html I had gathered a tefc motor is ideal. In the video they use a 3400rpm motor and use 2:1 pully ratio to slow it down to 1700. There's a good number of motor repair places around here actually though a lot of them seem more focused on big industrial type ones. Also 3 phase motors seem to be more common sadly. I should try phoning around I guess.
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Mar 8, 2015 05:33
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Yeah, most low HP single phase motors just aren't expensive enough to justify rebuilding, and most high HP motors are 3 phase. On the bright side, though, you can sometimes find small 3 phase motors for a good price, so you could buy two and use the larger one for a phase converter, then you could hang with us cool kids 
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Mar 8, 2015 13:45
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So here's another motor idea. I looked at "free stuff" on craigslist, and there are a ton of washers, dryer's and dishwashers listed. You could get one and steal the motor out of it. It probably wouldn't be the optimum motor for the sander, but it would be cheap!
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Mar 8, 2015 15:08
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Relatively newer washing machines don't use standard induction motors anymore. Instead they use very high RPM speed controlled motors that require a sophisticated PWM otherwise they can continue speeding up until they burn up or explode. Been a lot of speculation on recycling these motors but I haven't seen it done yet.
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Mar 8, 2015 18:06
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A nice thought about washing machine motors. A quick googling seems to indicate that most are 1/4-3/4hp though, a bit too weak for my purposes. Same with dishwashers and such. Hmm, I wonder what type of household item would come with something larger than 1hp other than a table saw or some such.
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Mar 9, 2015 00:31
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Squibbles posted:A nice thought about washing machine motors. A quick googling seems to indicate that most are 1/4-3/4hp though, a bit too weak for my purposes. Same with dishwashers and such. Hmm, I wonder what type of household item would come with something larger than 1hp other than a table saw or some such. Evaporative Cooler. Not sure why I didn't think of it earlier, I grew up working on one of these trying to keep it working before we had A/C. Any other large-ish blower like A/C air handlers I imagine, but I've never torn into the guts of an air handler to know what kind of motor it contains.
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Mar 9, 2015 00:47
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The Locator posted:Evaporative Cooler. Not sure why I didn't think of it earlier, I grew up working on one of these trying to keep it working before we had A/C. Any other large-ish blower like A/C air handlers I imagine, but I've never torn into the guts of an air handler to know what kind of motor it contains. Sadly those seem not too common around here in Vancouver. I did a quick search on craigslist and found 1 whole result for swamp coolers and none for evaporative coolers. It doesn't really get hot enough here on the coast where people have AC or similar stuff. Ah well, I'll just keep my eyes peeled on craigslist. Or once I'm ready to actually build this thing I might just hit up a few stores and see if there's any ok prices on reconditioned or new motors.
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Mar 9, 2015 03:27
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Squibbles posted:I did a quick search on craigslist and found 1 whole result for swamp coolers and none for evaporative coolers. Evap/Swamp are the same thing. But yes, I imagine that they are pretty regional. There are 168 listings for swamp cooler, and 144 listings for evaporative cooler here in Phoenix. A bunch of them are just for pumps, motors, service and random crap of course, because it's Craigslist.
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Mar 9, 2015 03:33
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The Locator posted:Evap/Swamp are the same thing. But yes, I imagine that they are pretty regional. I thought I had a good lead when I found some decently priced hottub motor/pumps but it looks like they are mostly 220v and I don't have the wiring for that.
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Mar 9, 2015 04:12
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The Locator posted:Any other large-ish blower like A/C air handlers I imagine, but I've never torn into the guts of an air handler to know what kind of motor it contains. I just looked at the one I pulled out of the air handler I replaced in my barn. It's 1/2 HP, and this was a heater that started out life at the gas heat and AC blower for a 3 bedroom house. I don't know for sure, but I would guess you're have a hard time finding one any bigger (because most residences just go to multiple units at that point).
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Mar 9, 2015 04:52
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I found a 1hp motor for sale on craigslist last night for $60. I'll probably buy it to night assuming there's nothing wrong with it. If I find it to be underpowered I can always sell it and upgrade to a 1.5hp one later. Thanks for all the thoughts and tips 
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Mar 9, 2015 15:24
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I brought home this Gumby-looking piece of iron yesterday. It's a 1966 Powermatic 141.   Everything is in pretty good shape except for the fence which I broke a piece off of while unloading it. I've got a couple blades on order and I think I'm going to have to replace the tires with rubber ones. The wheels are not crowned and from what I understand you can't put a crown on urethane tires. Right now the blade tracks on the very outside edge of the tire so that the teeth are hanging off the edge, which doesn't seem right to me.
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Mar 9, 2015 18:54
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On the topic of radiant floor heating: Let's say gas or propane isn't an option, and whatever heat you get is from electricity. Is there any advantage to hydronic radiant (in this case, heating water with electricity), rather than cutting out the middleman and just using in-slab electric elements?
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Mar 11, 2015 19:45
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You can use a heat pump with hydronic raidant. Although a good air source to water heat pump is fairly hard to come by in the US.
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Mar 11, 2015 20:23
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Zhentar posted:You can use a heat pump with hydronic raidant. Although a good air source to water heat pump is fairly hard to come by in the US. Using water heat would leave open the potential to set up a solar water heater system later.
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Mar 11, 2015 20:26
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^^^ Those are good points I forgot. I'm certainly no heating expert, but every time you transfer energy from one form to another you lose something. Electricity to water doesn't lose much, because there's no exhaust gas to carry heat away, but then you have to transport that heated water from the source to the destination, so you still have some loss. You could, however, design a hydronic system with a large storage tank that's heated electrically. If it had enough thermal mass to heat the house all day by itself, you could then heat the water at night, when most power companies offer lower rates. The downsides are that you would still need auxiliary electric heat in the event of a cold snap; you would be wasting heat if it warms up unexpectedly; and you would need a huge gently caress-off tank somewhere in your house. You would also need some very pricey equipment to supply and balance each room. Electric slab heaters can run off of cheap line voltage thermostats, need very little maintenance, only turn on when they need to, never freeze, use relatively tiny, easy-to-run wires, etc. tl:dr-- I would be shocked if it would be cost effective to heat water electrically instead of using electricity directly. If someone can say otherwise, I would sincerely like to read about it.
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Mar 11, 2015 22:44
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One Legged Ninja posted:You could, however, design a hydronic system with a large storage tank that's heated electrically. If it had enough thermal mass to heat the house all day by itself, you could then heat the water at night, when most power companies offer lower rates. If you have a slab foundation, that should be able to provide all the thermal mass you need.
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Mar 11, 2015 22:52
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Right, but if you store it in water you can pipe it wherever you want it, instead of just the ground floor.
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Mar 11, 2015 22:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Using water heat would leave open the potential to set up a solar water heater system later. That's a fantastic point. Now I'm imagining some crazy-rear end scheme where you have the option to heat water with (gas, electric, whatever), or with solar, depending on the needed heating power. Like in the mild months, and possibly well into the winter depending on your latitude, you could just run the water through a solar heating loop, and then in the depths of winter, you could heat it more powerfully with gas. I feel like it should also be possible to cool a room with a radiant floor, by running cold water through it (as long as you have good air movement inside said room) so maybe throw a loop that runs into a well or something? Is that utter nonsense? Sure the installation would be fantastically more expensive, but from an engineering standpoint, it maybe sounds like a cool idea?
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Mar 12, 2015 00:23
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One Legged Ninja posted:I'm certainly no heating expert, but every time you transfer energy from one form to another you lose something. Electricity to water doesn't lose much, because there's no exhaust gas to carry heat away, but then you have to transport that heated water from the source to the destination, so you still have some loss. If you brush up on your thermodynamics, you'll realize what you lose becomes heat. When what you want is also heat, congratulations, you get 100% efficiency. An electric boiler hydronic system will achieve 100% efficiency as long as all the equipment and piping is in conditioned space. One Legged Ninja posted:You could, however, design a hydronic system with a large storage tank that's heated electrically. If it had enough thermal mass to heat the house all day by itself, you could then heat the water at night, when most power companies offer lower rates. The downsides are that you would still need auxiliary electric heat in the event of a cold snap; you would be wasting heat if it warms up unexpectedly; and you would need a huge gently caress-off tank somewhere in your house. You would also need some very pricey equipment to supply and balance each room. Congratulations, you just invented the Electric Thermal Storage Boiler. Ceramic bricks work better than a storage tank though, because they can withstand higher temperatures. Also, zoning your hydronic system is not particularly pricey if you've run the tubing in a sane manner. And it's pretty much a requirement anyway. Bad Munki posted:That's a fantastic point. Now I'm imagining some crazy-rear end scheme where you have the option to heat water with (gas, electric, whatever), or with solar, depending on the needed heating power. Like in the mild months, and possibly well into the winter depending on your latitude, you could just run the water through a solar heating loop, and then in the depths of winter, you could heat it more powerfully with gas. I feel like it should also be possible to cool a room with a radiant floor, by running cold water through it (as long as you have good air movement inside said room) so maybe throw a loop that runs into a well or something? Is that utter nonsense? Sure the installation would be fantastically more expensive, but from an engineering standpoint, it maybe sounds like a cool idea? This is how basically every solar hot water install works (perhaps excepting some off grid scenarios where hot water is considered optional). You might be able to get good cooling using open wells, but running all that well water through your system is going give you a hell of a lot of corrosion and scale. Closed wells won't have a good enough delta t to get substantial cooling out of them (unless you throw in a heat pump, in which case now you've got a hydronic ground source heat pump system). There are a few downsides to cooling a room with a hydronic floor, most significant of them being that you have a much lower cooling capacity than heating capacity for the same piping, and that you don't get any dehumidification. (You can get dehumidification from a hydronic system... just not from the floors). Also, if you can get net-metering, solar panels and electric resistance heat end up being more cost effective than solar hot water. And with a good heat pump, even without net metering.
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Mar 12, 2015 01:51
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Didn't even consider the lack of dehumidification. It'd be super super annoying if your floor was the coldest part of the room and started growing condensation, too, holy poo poo that'd be gripe-worthy.
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Mar 12, 2015 01:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you have a slab foundation, that should be able to provide all the thermal mass you need. I know of at least one guy who disagrees with you... and added 180 tons of sand below the slab for added thermal mass.
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Mar 12, 2015 02:15
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Zhentar posted:If you brush up on your thermodynamics, you'll realize what you lose becomes heat. Yep, that's what I intended to imply. Zhentar posted:Congratulations, you just invented the Electric Thermal Storage Boiler. Ceramic bricks work better than a storage tank though, because they can withstand higher temperatures. Oh, I didn't mean to sound like I invented it. I guess I'm just not communicating very well today. Oh well  I won't derail the thread any more, since I'm sure we're both thinking on the same wavelength.
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Mar 12, 2015 04:02
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If I may interrupt- can someone recommend a good but cost effective aluminum cutting blade for 10" miter saw?
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Mar 12, 2015 06:33
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Zhentar posted:I know of at least one guy who disagrees with you... and added 180 tons of sand below the slab for added thermal mass. There's a 5.972e24 kg thermal mass under my house 
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Mar 12, 2015 08:30
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You bastard, you buried your mom under your house?
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Mar 12, 2015 08:49
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Cakefool posted:There's a 5.972e24 kg thermal mass under my house And it's pretty well insulated from the surrounding environment, too!
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Mar 12, 2015 12:32
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Not well enough for Scotland, the headboard's been slamming the other side of Hadrian's pretty much every night for centuries. His Divine Shadow posted:You bastard, you buried your mom under your house? Daaaaamn! 
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 14:16
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Hubis posted:And it's pretty well insulated from the surrounding environment, too! But the charge time is atrocious, barely goes up a degree per century.
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Mar 12, 2015 15:05
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TheBigBad posted:If I may interrupt- can someone recommend a good but cost effective aluminum cutting blade for 10" miter saw? Any non-ferrous blade will do just fine, just make sure to get one with a negative hook (all metal blades should have negative hook.) Aluminum is like butter, and I've found even cheap blades do just fine and dandy. If you're going to be doing a TON of work, of course you'll want to step out of the budget line, but really, whatever you can find handy will work. Carbide teeth, of course, but I bet you'd have to actually work at finding a 10" negative hook non-ferrous cutting blade that didn't have carbide teeth.
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Mar 12, 2015 15:14
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I just realized a big advantage of hydronics, in certain situations: you can just put in pex relatively cheaply and worry about the actual heating part later (as per Motronic), as opposed to electric which is a large upfront that you can't retrofit.
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Mar 12, 2015 18:57
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