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Wait what? Where'd you find that, all my regular sources have nothing. Also I'm assuming you mean MG Turn A for the second one. I've actually been meaning to get a new MG Turn A, so that's actually kind of tempting. I'd have to see pictures first though. EDIT: Oh wait, it's just a catalog of things being announced, not photos from an expo. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 19:19
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Top o' the blog on GG at the moment. There's a Trans-Am RG Raiser in that batch of announcements, too. Try to contain your excitement. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 19:21
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Bimmi posted:— next HG Revive is the Freedom. Did not see that one coming. I won't be surprised to see a new MG Freedom coming in the not too distant future. Between this new HG and the RD, MG Freedom 2.0 would be a no-brainer. Hell, we're even getting RD Justice. Maybe Justice will finally get its long-awaited MG.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:29
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I'm still stunned they didn't release MG Freedom vRM.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:34
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Bimmi posted:And since no-one has posted it yet: Fair enough. It's sometimes hard to judge the scale of these things through pictures on the internet. Hell, even when they have a reference or scale.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:43
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I only have six MGs on display, and Freedom is one of 'em. A new kit would be nice. I assume it got skipped because it can't really straight-up re-use the GAT skeleton, and also to keep something in the MG SEED arsenal for later use. If/when they do a new one I hope they redo Destiny as well, because I kind of hate the current one.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:51
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Metal Build Freedom and Destiny already kind of blow away anything a model kit could do, I feel.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:54
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As well they should, for what they cost.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:57
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Everything about the Dom R35 looks gorgeous -- the shoulder tubes, the extra verniers, the new head -- except the arm shields, which seem flimsy and cumbersome. I hope the arms look fine with those removed.
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Apr 23, 2015 20:08
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Regular super glue probably wouldn't hold, but plastic super glue/cement probably would because it is actually designed to actually bond the plastic together, not just make a bridge between parts out of glue like normal super glue.
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Apr 23, 2015 20:14
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Dengeki Hobby magazine is calling it quits. gently caress this gay earth. I always thought they were far superior to Hobby Japan (which is pretty loving good itself) and am genuinely mad about this. Wonder what happened?
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Apr 23, 2015 20:30
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Aren't they just moving online? But yeah, it sucks. I loved their magazines. 
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Apr 23, 2015 20:53
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A new MG Freedom would be cool, but the original holds up great. It was my first MG, and even though I butchered constructing it, it is still cool looking.
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Apr 23, 2015 20:54
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Zwingley posted:Having slept on it, it's a lot less rotten luck and a lot more lack of care. It came down to me using way, way, way too much force to try and reposition the rifle after it slipped out of place and not really understanding where that force was going. One of the joints the rifle sits on had turned, so I was pretty much pushing at nothing, and something had to give and welp Link the manual page it is used. May not be that bad.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:10
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Bimmi posted:There's a Trans-Am RG Raiser in that batch of announcements, too. Try to contain your excitement. Phew, it's only P-Bandai. I thought they were wasting an actual release spot on it.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:27
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Phew, it's only P-Bandai. I thought they were wasting an actual release spot on it. It was guaranteed that they were gonna do it 
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Apr 23, 2015 21:30
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God, that colour combo is loving hideous.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:31
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:God, that colour combo is loving hideous. Doesn't seem that different from Strike Rouge, and people seem to love that one.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:34
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chumbler posted:Doesn't seem that different from Strike Rouge, and people seem to love that one. Strike Rouge doesn't have massive patches of lime green and orange. It's just different shades of pink.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:35
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Tenzarin posted:Link the manual page it is used. May not be that bad. I have a picture of the parts laid out at present; I can snap a shot of the manual when I get home.  Mentally rotate the middle part away from the camera, hook it under and slide the broken piece's ball joint into a polycap. The broken piece is what holds the weight/holsters the rifle behind it when not in use, and lets the kit keep a firing position when it is. 
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Apr 23, 2015 22:58
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Aside from the Unicorn, the Astray is the only MS left that's gotten a Perfect Grade but not a Real Grade, right?
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Apr 24, 2015 00:36
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The fact there's a non-0079 suit is getting a Revive model gives me hope that one day, we'll see a Revive Zaku III, normal or custom.
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Apr 24, 2015 00:49
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Tenzarin posted:Link the manual page it is used. May not be that bad. Follow-up in three parts. Initially:  New angle for the next step:  Rifle attachment: 
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Apr 24, 2015 02:08
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boom boom boom posted:Aside from the Unicorn, the Astray is the only MS left that's gotten a Perfect Grade but not a Real Grade, right? Don't do this to me. Don't get my hopes up like this.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:11
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Don't do this to me. Don't get my hopes up like this. It would make sense. It's a very popular suit, they could do a million event and webstore exclusive variants, and it's been four releases since they did a C.E. MS.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:46
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Apr 24, 2015 03:34
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This is almost painful to look at and I can see why it broke. Not a great situation you're in. I think you're gonna need a stronger fix than just glue, so let's revisit the pinning idea: what I think you should do is to reinforce the part with twin rods without drilling into the important structural bits. First, have some bad photoshops (side view & cross-section) to show roughly what I'm talking about :   What you will be doing is setting two lengths of brass rod along either side of the central strut, as opposed to drilling into the strut itself. You may need to go this heavy to keep the part from breaking again in short order. Follow this basic procedure: — determine how thick you can go with the brass rod: 2mm should be sufficient, but make sure it will fit alongside the central strut without protruding beyond the edge of the part as viewed head-on: since this part is going to be sandwiched inside another assembly, it can't be made any wider overall than it already is. — cut out the walls of the smaller piece so you can place the rod inside it: don't worry about being too precise, just make it big enough to fit. Take care not to mess up the break surface too much, because a strong weld at the break will still be good to have. — weld the part. I'd still suggest going with cement just because it's the simplest way. Let it cure to stiffness, at least. — cut the rod to fit. Make them as long as possible. You'll need a good heavy-duty wirecutter for this. — glue the rods onto the part. You can use either a gel-type CA or epoxy for this, though the latter will be stronger. Again, make sure the rods don't protrude beyond the sides of the part. Be sure to maximise contact with the side and top surfaces for optimal grip. — once the glue has had a chance to cure, fill in the entire part with an epoxy putty like Tamiya or Milliput: you will essentially be changing the cross-section of the part from a T-shape to a filled-in, rectangular box. Fill and sand as needed until the shape is uniform. You'll lose that little bit of detail on the strut, obviously, but such is life. — finally, paint, because the part is obviously not going to look too great after having all this work done to it. So, that's what I'd suggest. I know it's kind of complicated, and I'm not sure I explained it perfectly, but I think you may need the strongest possible fix for this thing and this, in my opinion, is how to go about it. Please ask questions if you have 'em. edit: you could maybe skip the filling-in-with-epoxy part, which is the hardest step of the whole thing, but you'd be sacrificing some strength that way. Might be okay, though. You could substitute aluminum rod (not as easy to cut) if the color bugs you. e2: wasn't real happy with the side view or 5th step, fixed 'em. e3: fixed step 5 again. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 03:37
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Does this mean Char's colors have been retconned from pink-vermillion and dark red to maroon and dark red?
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Apr 24, 2015 04:51
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From the gist of it, I take it we're getting new generic sticker packs? Bimmi posted:And since no-one has posted it yet: Look, Bandai, just give us new versions of the other G-Project Gundams already. I just want a decent HG Buster Gundam  .
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Apr 24, 2015 04:55
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Ka0 posted:Does this mean Char's colors have been retconned from pink-vermillion and dark red to maroon and dark red? His Zaku was only ever pink because crappy Seventies animation needed pale colours for the details to show up. A darker red isn't so much a retcon as a modernisation.
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Apr 24, 2015 04:59
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Dunno about anyone else but to me this just reeks of  :
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Apr 24, 2015 05:07
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Bimmi posted:Dunno about anyone else but to me this just reeks of BACK! BACK! I CAST THY MOLD BACK TO 2003! 
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Apr 24, 2015 05:12
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Bimmi posted:snip Holy poo poo thanks for this. I'm fairly sure I'm with you, and only really have one concern at present: Bimmi posted:— determine how thick you can go with the brass rod: 2mm should be sufficient, but make sure it will fit alongside the central strut without protruding beyond the edge of the part as viewed head-on: since this part is going to be sandwiched inside another assembly, it can't be made any wider overall than it already is. 2mm looks to be the correct size for being flush with the outside from the central strut--I might have to drop to 1.5 if I don't like it when I have it in my hands--but the cavity in the smaller piece is only about 1mm. So I'd need to either drop to a 1mm rod or use a pin vise to hollow out the sides of a 1.5/2mm cavity. Thoughts here?
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Apr 24, 2015 05:13
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I get the distinct impression that there are two teams designing the legacy HG line and that one is much, much better at their job than the other.Zwingley posted:2mm looks to be the correct size for being flush with the outside from the central strut--I might have to drop to 1.5 if I don't like it when I have it in my hands--but the cavity in the smaller piece is only about 1mm. So I'd need to either drop to a 1mm rod or use a pin vise to hollow out the sides of a 1.5/2mm cavity. Thoughts here? That's a toughy. I'm not sure 1mm rod is going to do you much good and I'm not crazy about the idea of thinning the part either. If you must enlarge it, do it at the bottom where it will take the least stress, and angle it so that the area closest to the crossmember retains as much of its original thickness as possible. e: and use a blade, preferably this one. Pin vise is for drilling holes. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 05:14
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At least the MG Moonlight Butterfly wings look good, because the kit itself is just the old one with a terrible finish?
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Apr 24, 2015 05:18
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Bimmi posted:I get the distinct impression that there are two teams designing the legacy HG line and that one is much, much better at their job than the other. That Freedom is exactly the old HG, the only difference is better part separation instead of stickers.
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Apr 24, 2015 05:23
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Bimmi posted:That's a toughy. I'm not sure 1mm rod is going to do you much good and I'm not crazy about the idea of thinning the part either. If you must enlarge it, do it at the bottom where it will take the least stress, and angle it so that the area closest to the crossmember retains as much of its original thickness as possible. I'll check back when I've got the stuff in hand, then. Thanks again!
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Apr 24, 2015 05:25
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dogsicle posted:At least the MG Moonlight Butterfly wings look good, because the kit itself is just the old one with a terrible finish? It's pretty much just an expanded version of the HG 1/144 one. Which isn't bad, since that one was really great, but still. On the other hand, the new connector has a port for an AB1 which is actually really, really, really good because holy poo poo the MG Turn A's AB connector sucks. EDIT: Holy poo poo funnel launch effect parts for the Sazabi and Nightingale, that's amazing.  Is there a single display case this would fit in? BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 05:38
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Neddy Seagoon posted:That Freedom is exactly the old HG, the only difference is better part separation instead of stickers. I wouldn't go that far. Remember, you're talking about this:  The new one's certainly better than that, but it doesn't really have much in the way of style either. I am disappoint. And since I'm already in a bitchy mood, what the gently caress is up with the Shiki 2.0's child-bearing hips? Here it is, looking more bow-legged than ever:  I'm hoping this is just some weird assembly issue but it's been apparent in every image I've seen so far, including the render, and it bugs the living poo poo out of me. I was really looking forward to this one, but if the splay turns out to be an actual thing that can't be easily fixed then no sale buddy.
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Apr 24, 2015 06:26
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Darth Walrus posted:His Zaku was only ever pink because crappy Seventies animation needed pale colours for the details to show up. A darker red isn't so much a retcon as a modernisation. Too bad, the pink owns
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Apr 24, 2015 06:34
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