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Literally The Worst posted:Build Strike, Turn A, or 00 Raiser are far better options than any of those. Source: my MG shelf The site doesn't have those in stock. The other viable options are proto wing zero and turn x iirc I planned for the gyan I ordered to be my first mg but whatever I get here will arrive faster
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May 24, 2015 17:51
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The Gundam mk2 2.0 MG is good imo and isn't the Build Mk2 MG based on that?
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May 24, 2015 18:52
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Either of those BF MGs are great, just flip a coin.
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May 24, 2015 19:01
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I just built my first RG, the RX-178. loving impressive what they can cram into a 1/144 kit these days, and I'm shocked at how well it articulates and moves for such tiny pieces. Compared to the MG Sinanju Ver.Ka, where it feels like every joint manipulation is going to twist off a peg, this RG feels like a robust action figure. Even though a lot of pieces seem to get attached with very little friction, they seem pretty solid. One issue is the beam rifle's 'stowed' position on the waist armor. It just doesn't fit. The peg on the gun is too far from the butt of the gun, so the butt hits the chest and it won't slot into the waist hole in virtually any pose. I got sick of waiting for the PG Unicorn LED Unit to get in at HLJ (only had another week or so before my PG Unicorn hits the 60 day warehouse limit), and found it from an ebay seller that isn't gouging. Added a small pile of action bases to my warehouse, and I'll finally get that thing in shipping 6 months after I ordered it.
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May 24, 2015 20:40
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Pyroclastic posted:
My Unicorn + LED finally got here last week too.
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May 24, 2015 20:49
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You guys weren't kidding how long a full painting project can take! After getting another kit, repainting, forgetting to paint one part that I was repainting for, then finally painting the single last part, Heavy arms is finally rearmed. Time to practice water slides and dry rubs.
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May 25, 2015 01:08
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A guy I know won a GWBC regional qualifier with a MG GX. This Pleases Me. I bought him a MG DX as a congratulations. 
BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 06:13 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 05:59
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If anyone was interested, Gentei Kits is taking preorders for the GM Cannon now. Edit: What is EMS shipping and why is it faster and cheaper than air mail? Anonymous Robot fucked around with this message at 06:22 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 06:17
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EMS is just another kind of international shipping with tracking. If you live in the United States, the Post Office delivers your package, and it's usually really fast. At least for me it is. I'll have a package get shipped on a Friday and arrive sometime the next week, all the way from freakin' Japan. If you do not live in the U.S., well, I don't know how you non-Americans deal with the delivery and shipping costs and import fees and what not.
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May 25, 2015 06:35
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Mecha Gojira posted:If you do not live in the U.S., well, I don't know how you non-Americans deal with the delivery and shipping costs and import fees and what not. With a steely look in our eye and absolutely nothing left in our bank accounts.
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May 25, 2015 09:17
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:With a steely look in our eye and absolutely nothing left in our bank accounts. This. EMS does get here really fast though.
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May 25, 2015 10:08
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Ignimbrite posted:This. After HMRC have caught it and bumped up the price significantly, of course.
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May 25, 2015 11:56
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HLJ discontinued the final issue of Dengeki Hobby. 
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May 25, 2015 18:51
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First attempt at repair of my Tallgeese III: The plain old plastic cement weld didn't work, probably not to the surprise of anyone who knows what they're doing. After a week of curing I tried putting everything back together, but the weld buckled right away, so that's out. Here's another picture of the break lined up a bit better, with the brass rods I have to work with in descending order from 2mm to 1.5mm to 1mm.  I'm not entirely sure what I can pull off here based on Bimmi's previous advice. I think I might be hosed. If I could do any modeling I might try to get something 3d printed, but I have no experience there.
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May 25, 2015 20:13
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That eats. Don't want to see you left high and dry on this so I'd be willing to fix it for you if you care to give me a crack at it. If not, the previous advice still holds but you should definitely reinforce the whole thing with epoxy putty if that bottom rod is as skinny as it looks. BlitzBlast posted:HLJ discontinued the final issue of Dengeki Hobby. … wha? Bimmi fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 20:36
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It looks like the 1mm rod would fit in the little trapezoidal space on the side there. If you cut out one side of it, you could probably put a section of rod in there and secure it in with putty/glue. Do that on each side and you should be pretty well set.
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May 25, 2015 20:41
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Bimmi posted:… wha? Gundam Guy put up their regular "hey this issue of Dengeki Hobby is coming out soon" article so I went to HLJ to check on my order, and the thing's marked as discontinued. I don't even.
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May 25, 2015 21:00
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Sold out, probably. HLJ loves to slap "discontinued" on any old thing.
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May 25, 2015 21:08
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:It looks like the 1mm rod would fit in the little trapezoidal space on the side there. If you cut out one side of it, you could probably put a section of rod in there and secure it in with putty/glue. Do that on each side and you should be pretty well set. The 1mm rod would fit based on the measuring I've done (I can cut a segment to double-check in a little bit); it's more a matter of whether they'd provide enough support, even with putty. The way the connecting piece joins up puts some pressure on the slight slope that begins on the right piece, for whatever reason, which is why the initial weld buckled outwards. Disclaimer: I've never worked with putty before. I could be totally wrong about how much it would help. Bimmi posted:That eats. Don't want to see you left high and dry on this so I'd be willing to fix it for you if you care to give me a crack at it. Thanks for the offer and the advice; I really appreciate it. I'm gonna chew on it a little more, I think. Need to decide whether I'm willing to risk learning with and maybe loving up such an expensive kit.
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May 25, 2015 21:18
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You'll need to fill the entire part with putty with the aim of changing the cross-section profile from a T to a rectangle. Not just any putty either, this is strictly a job for epoxy putty. and of course you'll have to file & sand in order for it to not look like crap. Let me know what you decide to do, it's a pretty easy fix from my end.
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May 25, 2015 21:22
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Figured I might as well post an update of this: Really trying to get this finished up. Sadly, the left forearm fin has disappeared into the Gunpla ether.  I got this in the mail today:  FINALLY found a seller who wasn't being an rear end in a top hat with the asking price.
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May 25, 2015 21:42
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Whoa, the hell is that? I didnt know they had Shin Mazin kits! On the painting front, I have all my supplies bought and ready to go (thanks for the previous advice on inks). My question is, how do I balance asembly and painting? Should I start putting parts together, or should I just be painting all the pieces fresh off the sprue and then assemble? I am planning on priming all the pieces, if that matters.
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May 25, 2015 22:41
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Oh whew, HLJ sent a payment request for the issue. Anyway I usually just work on one part of the body at a time: legs, then torso, then the arms, etc. It usually ends up being more organized that way for me. Also assemble to the point you can see how everything goes together then disassemble and paint. Be careful of really tiny pieces you can't take out again though.
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May 25, 2015 23:17
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Blitzblast has got it. Put little bits together, do the peg trimming thing where you clip it at an angle. Do subassemblies. For my first thing I did it all and it makes it feel like a huge job. Doing limb by limb or whatever makes it much more manageable and gives you a nice sense of progress.
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May 26, 2015 00:13
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Zwingley posted:
It's I21 on one of the regular Tallgeese sprues right? I've a regular MG Goose to see if it's able to be copied, but it's still boxed up because  . Looking at the other piece, do any of the inner fins lock into the other pieces, or do you think a solid extrude would be sufficient? You know, just in case.
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May 26, 2015 00:36
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huh I usually do a full assembly, then paint all the pieces at once. Saves me time and money on stuff like paint and primer (less excess I guess). Also jesus christ Anime north was likely the biggest gunpla binge of my life. In one day I bought Mg sazabi ver ka mg sword impulse mg build strike 1/100 kyrios also got pre-built mg's for ten bucks each, those being: mg f91 mg aquatic griffon mg g04 mg g05. 8 kits. That's plastic crack for you.
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May 26, 2015 00:44
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Monaghan posted:huh I usually do a full assembly, then paint all the pieces at once. Saves me time and money on stuff like paint and primer (less excess I guess). How the hell do you pull that off and still get a clean paintjob? Wouldn't the exposed joints/inner frame get sprayed by whatever you're using to paint the armor?
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May 26, 2015 00:52
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TaurusOxford posted:How the hell do you pull that off and still get a clean paintjob? Wouldn't the exposed joints/inner frame get sprayed by whatever you're using to paint the armor? Sorry I didn't come across very clear. What I do is build the thing, fix any seam lines, then prime it when it's still together. After priming, I disassemble the whole thing and paint by color, I don't do sub assemblies, or only paint the limb at at one time. I only reassemble once everything is painted and coated with future.
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May 26, 2015 00:55
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0x0hShit posted:It's I21 on one of the regular Tallgeese sprues right? I've a regular MG Goose to see if it's able to be copied, but it's still boxed up because Unfortunately I don't think it exists on the regular Tallgeese.  It's I1-21 here. Looking at the regular MG Tallgeese manual on Dalong, it doesn't seem to exist. Insofar as the inner ribbing goes, it's just detail up to the deep shadow; the loop slots into the shoulder. I posted some other shots of the manual earlier in the thread that might give a better idea. Zwingley posted:Initially: e: hosed up a thing Zwingley fucked around with this message at 01:07 on May 26, 2015 |
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May 26, 2015 01:03
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i got in touch with uhhh i think it was "bandai action kits" when i needed replacement part for my scopedog
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May 26, 2015 01:08
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muike posted:i got in touch with uhhh i think it was "bandai action kits" when i needed replacement part for my scopedog Would they have pieces for online exclusives? 'cuz that's why this is such a problem. 
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May 26, 2015 01:13
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Zwingley posted:Unfortunately I don't think it exists on the regular Tallgeese. Yeah it does not look like it exists on the regular MG then. Sorry. On the flipside I tossed the image in real quick and mocked something up based on the 1/1.5/2mm rods in the image. It's definitely not a a perfect replication but with some work, maybe it would fit. Probably more a 'last ditch' thing if a real part can't be found. Cost from Shapeways would be about 2 bucks + ship in Nylon plastic. Link to the 2D DXF and 3D STL.
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May 26, 2015 02:34
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Monaghan posted:Sorry I didn't come across very clear. What I do is build the thing, fix any seam lines, then prime it when it's still together. After priming, I disassemble the whole thing and paint by color, I don't do sub assemblies, or only paint the limb at at one time. I only reassemble once everything is painted and coated with future. So... you finish the whole kit, and prime the whole thing in one shot? Wouldn't that stick the joints, or I guess you just tape that up? drat, this is a lot harder than I thought... I want to pick the right method 
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May 26, 2015 02:38
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A printed part would be the least lovely alternative but you'd need to make a more or less perfect duplicate of the original part — Gunpla does not really tolerate "close enough" where assembly is concerned. Still, I like this idea, because The Future. BlitzBlast posted:Be careful of really tiny pieces you can't take out again though. Add to this any part where the edges become enclosed or trapped upon assembly — examples include the RX-78-2's rifle scope sensor, Exia or 00's GN Condenser domes, and the X/DX's solar panels. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 03:14 on May 26, 2015 |
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May 26, 2015 03:04
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Dre2Dee2 posted:So... you finish the whole kit, and prime the whole thing in one shot? Wouldn't that stick the joints, or I guess you just tape that up? you can finish the model, then part it back into its major pieces, arms, legs, torso, etc. Also you can scrape paint off the parts where they connect thus removing the primer/paint/whatever so they dont become too thick.
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May 26, 2015 03:09
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Dre2Dee2 posted:So... you finish the whole kit, and prime the whole thing in one shot? Wouldn't that stick the joints, or I guess you just tape that up? If it helps there isn't a "right" method, just what you find best. Get some cheap HGs and try both! See what is best for you!
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May 26, 2015 03:12
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Gunpla Is Freedom
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May 26, 2015 03:21
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I probably already know the answer to this, but do magazines such as hobby japan ever get reprinted or restocked. I just want a copy of the may issue with the honoo parts, just don't want to pay $89 on ebay for them.
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May 26, 2015 03:56
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Ka0 posted:I probably already know the answer to this, but do magazines such as hobby japan ever get reprinted or restocked. I just want a copy of the may issue with the honoo parts, just don't want to pay $89 on ebay for them. Just wait for a third party to copy them.
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May 26, 2015 04:05
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| # ? May 23, 2024 16:13 |
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Ka0 posted:ebay TaurusOxford posted:Just wait for a third party to copy them. You're both terrible http://jungle-scs.co.jp/sale_en/?page_id=121&id=1143358
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May 26, 2015 04:18
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