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JohnGalt posted:What kind of experience have you all had with negotiating the price of a new vehicle down? I am looking at a Jeep and I am able to afford the sticker price on the lot but I want to get it for the lowest price possible. I get a discount through work to pay the "preferred price" listed on the invoice which is around 1500-2000 less. Does that discount come out of what the dealer makes or what the manufacturer gets? I could pay the whole thing in cash, but would offering to let the dealer finance it give me more leverage to reduce the total cost? If it's a "rebate", it's coming from the manufacturer, if it's just a negotiated price, it's coming from the dealer's slice. Don't even discuss financing or trade in until after you've agreed on a final selling price.
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May 31, 2015 19:23
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Twerk from Home posted:If it's a "rebate", it's coming from the manufacturer, if it's just a negotiated price, it's coming from the dealer's slice. Don't even discuss financing or trade in until after you've agreed on a final selling price. I'm not entirely sure if its a rebate or not. I can get a certificate from work and it gets the lower price at any dealership which leads me to believe its coming out of the manufacturer.
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May 31, 2015 20:19
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idiotsavant posted:Followup question re: new car price negotiations. New 2015 Honda Fit LX is $17270 MSRP. KBB says invoice for the car is about $16800 and says they're selling between 16.3 - 16.5k. I'm pre-qualified for a loan. Where do I start negotiations? Thinking of telling them that I was interested in a new Fit but looking to pay around 15, hopefully they'll counter with invoice or a little lower, and then I can ask them to get closer to 16. If they can't go under like 16.5 I don't mind walking out. Is negotiating still the same pain in the rear end stereotype or what? Sound like a reasonable plan? 15k is likely a straight loss for the dealer counting holdback. Don't be a dick. Email your local internet sales managers at dealerships with your configuration and ask for quotes. Shop guys against each other.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:22
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JohnGalt posted:I'm not entirely sure if its a rebate or not. I can get a certificate from work and it gets the lower price at any dealership which leads me to believe its coming out of the manufacturer. I'm not sure how Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep programs work, but if this is an employee type program, similar to the Ford A/X/Z plan pricing, the pricing is pre-negotiated. You should be able to stack any additional public rebates on that pricing as well.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:56
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So I find myself in possession of a somewhat valuable car, a 2008 Jaguar XJ sedan that has one previous owner, a little old lady who put 58,000 miles on it in 8 years. KBB is somewhere between $14-15k on it, but I'm envisioning trouble as far as getting that from a craigslist buyer. I'm not averse to taking the $8-9k from a dealer as a trade-in, but I have a special consideration: I need to get $3,000 cash before I can do anything else. Is there a way to get a new car and trade in the Jag for $6,000 trade + $3,000 cash and walk out with the keys to a different car plus a check?
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Jun 2, 2015 16:50
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Proposed Budget: < $25k preferred, $30k max if one of you can convince me it's absolutely worth it to spend more New or Used: New Body Style: Crossover or Hatchback How will you be using the car?: Commuting/occasional road trips, but planning on starting a family soon so I'll probably be hauling babies and all sorts of baby poo poo around like strollers, etc. What aspects are most important to you? Having enough room for a new family, reliability, gas mileage, style, approximately in that order My car is starting to need more and more repairs recently, and I decided I've had enough of my lovely car (interior is falling apart, engine vibrates a lot even after new motor mounts, no cruise control or interior features that I like). Me and the wife are probably going to start a family soon and I always had in my mind that a hatchback would be perfect for this, however my brother and parents seem to think an SUV would be better because it's higher off the ground and easier to deal with child seats because I wouldn't have to bend down to do it. Anyone have experience with this? I'd prefer a hatchback still and I'm looking at a Mazda3 or Ford Focus to start, but if you think a crossover like a Mazda CX-5 or a Honda CR-V would be better I would certainly consider them. I feel like a crossover is just a hatchback but higher off the ground and more expensive.
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Jun 2, 2015 17:12
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Mind_Taker posted:Proposed Budget: < $25k preferred, $30k max if one of you can convince me it's absolutely worth it to spend more A CR-V is very likely to be the best fit for you. They really do have more usable room than compact crossovers, and it's much easier to get baby seats into / out of them. CR-Vs also have incredibly slow depreciation, and if you don't need an AWD one (you probably don't) they're definitely under $25k. Edit: Honestly, because of the slow deprecation and great fuel economy, a CR-V is likely to cost the same to own in the long term as a cheaper hatchback. You've got the right idea, though.
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Jun 2, 2015 17:20
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Everblight posted:So I find myself in possession of a somewhat valuable car, a 2008 Jaguar XJ sedan that has one previous owner, a little old lady who put 58,000 miles on it in 8 years. PM me more info on the car. I am sure not giving you fourteen thousand united states dollars for it, but I'm willing to talk.
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Jun 2, 2015 20:12
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Twerk from Home posted:A CR-V is very likely to be the best fit for you. They really do have more usable room than compact crossovers, and it's much easier to get baby seats into / out of them. CR-Vs also have incredibly slow depreciation, and if you don't need an AWD one (you probably don't) they're definitely under $25k. Unless they've improved their awd, if you do need awd, you don't want a CRV. Recent models didn't cope well with complete traction loss on single wheels.
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Jun 2, 2015 20:32
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VideoTapir posted:Unless they've improved their awd, if you do need awd, you don't want a CRV. Recent models didn't cope well with complete traction loss on single wheels. I couldn't find anything in the original post that stated the need for AWD, so a FWD CRV is a good choice.
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Jun 2, 2015 20:50
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I couldn't find anything in the original post that stated the need for AWD, so a FWD CRV is a good choice. No I don't need AWD I live in Florida and won't be offroading or anything fun like that. What other models should I be looking at for the sake of comparison in case I don't like the feel of the CRV?
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Jun 2, 2015 21:23
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Mind_Taker posted:No I don't need AWD I live in Florida and won't be offroading or anything fun like that. What other models should I be looking at for the sake of comparison in case I don't like the feel of the CRV? My wife thought she wanted a CR-V but after test driving it she decided she like the RAV4 better. I did too.
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Jun 2, 2015 22:30
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considering to buy a 2000 nissan maxima with 240k miles and no current mechanical issues for $1500 as my first car. is that so many miles that i'm likely throwing money away? also looking at a 2002 cadillac deville with 140k miles listed at $2800. Sounds like it's in excellent shape with no mechanical issues and newer tires. does $2800 sound fair, or should I try to get it down? jarjarbinksfan621 fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 00:26
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Wiggly posted:My wife thought she wanted a CR-V but after test driving it she decided she like the RAV4 better. I did too. On the flip side we have had a cx 5 since about 2 months after they came out and absolutely love it. Ended up with a RAV4 for about a week as a rental last year and could not wait to get the Mazda back. Drive them all in this class, see what stands out to you.
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Jun 3, 2015 00:46
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JohnGalt posted:What kind of experience have you all had with negotiating the price of a new vehicle down? I am looking at a Jeep and I am able to afford the sticker price on the lot but I want to get it for the lowest price possible. I get a discount through work to pay the "preferred price" listed on the invoice which is around 1500-2000 less. Does that discount come out of what the dealer makes or what the manufacturer gets? I could pay the whole thing in cash, but would offering to let the dealer finance it give me more leverage to reduce the total cost? I just got a new 2015 Hyundai Elantra for over $2k less than the dealer was asking by doing (well, I had my friend do it) what has been suggested and just emailing the different dealerships and basically having them bid for your business. Got it for $300 above wholesale invoice price and didn't pay any bullshit dealership/documentation/whatever fees. e: Oh the "preferred price" thing. One of the dealerships offered something similar, where I'd get a discount on a new car because I was a government employee. Ended up getting a better deal at a different dealership. Gringo Heisenberg fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 03:05
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Strongly considering buying a 2010-2012 Camaro in V8 & 6 speed manual transmission flavor. (Camaro SS - I love the HID display, so likely a 2SS trim) Aside from being totally impractical, is there anything that should sway me towards a Mustang or alternate muscle car? Are there reliability issues with the first model year (2010) or was it pretty solid? Anything in particular I should look for? I read that the paint around where the spoiler was mounted can be damaged due to incorrect spacing on the fit & that there was a recall issued.
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Jun 3, 2015 04:17
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Twerk from Home posted:A CR-V is very likely to be the best fit for you. They really do have more usable room than compact crossovers, and it's much easier to get baby seats into / out of them. CR-Vs also have incredibly slow depreciation, and if you don't need an AWD one (you probably don't) they're definitely under $25k. Also, if the new-for-2015-CRVs direct injection and CVT combo works as well as it did in the rental 2014 Accord I had for a week, it would be a hard vehicle to recommend against. The part of me that wants a vehicle that will go 200k with minimal maintenance and repairs is glad I have the tried and true K24/5speed auto, but in terms of actually driving it, the DI/CVT just kills it.
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Jun 3, 2015 07:25
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:considering to buy a 2000 nissan maxima with 240k miles and no current mechanical issues for $1500 as my first car. is that so many miles that i'm likely throwing money away? Auto or manual? What trim level? And how much driving will you be doing? I own and love that year of Maxima, but as great as the engine is, 240k is pushing it. You'll want to check its maintenance history for new cylinder coils and the suspension probably needs work if it hasn't gotten new struts recently. Also the starter might be ready to go, but they're not terrible to fix.
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Jun 3, 2015 08:57
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Proposed Budget: Looking for around 14k, but can be convinced to go up to 25k if there's some sort of sweet spot for used cars. Anything more than that would require convincing New or Used: Used. Body Style: 4d preferred, but really anything doesn't either scream "officer, please pull me over"/"please key my car" or drive like a boat is fine How will you be using the car?: Mainly 2 mile commute to/from work when it's too ugly out to walk. Occasional 300 mile trip from state to state. Occasional drive into Boston (narrow streets, gridlock traffic, tight parallel parking spaces). Ability to handle the occasional pothole (highways and side streets) What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, comfort, ability to handle bad weather conditions (especially icy/snowy slushy roads), good turning radius (critical for Boston), and nimble (we have a lot of bad drivers in Boston) Nice to haves would be AWD, Heated Leather Seats, automatic transmission (see gridlock traffic above), and some sort of Sunroof/MoonRoof Not sure if it matters, but the car will get dinged up when I park it in public lots. People just don't care what happens to unattended cars. edit: I plan on taking a 3rd generation forester out for a test drive, though it seems a bit pricey diadem fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 13:08
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Proposed Budget: under $25k New or Used: Either would be fine Body Style: 4 door or hatchback How will you be using the car?: Just to and from work, with an occasional trip into the mountains. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, relative comfort and a nice interior. My wife and I are looking to get out of our 04 Cooper asap as it has 64K on it and everywhere I've read says the cars start to explode at this point, we pretty much only use it to go a few miles a day to/from work, but occasionally take it out of the city. FWD or AWD is preferable, and something that isn't going to be a fuckton of money to repair or is under warranty would be preferable. It snows here, but both of us can drive a FWD car in the snow without a hitch. We both have excellent credit, and I'm sure we could get a good interest rate, what are the pros and cons of buying new vs lightly used? Edit: we both hate the Prius and do not want one. Old Man Pants fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 05:18
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Old Man Pants posted:Proposed Budget: under $25k New Prius. diadem posted:Proposed Budget: Looking for around 14k, but can be convinced to go up to 25k if there's some sort of sweet spot for used cars. Anything more than that would require convincing Pretty much every mainstream marque car built in the last 5 years will do what you want it to do so you should probably just go sit in some and see what you like.
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Jun 4, 2015 05:27
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Throatwarbler posted:New Prius. Old Man Pants posted:Edit: we both hate the Prius and do not want one. We do not want a prius.
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Jun 4, 2015 07:21
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Old Man Pants posted:We do not want a prius. Mazda3 or Ford Focus?
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Jun 4, 2015 14:15
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IRQ posted:Mazda3 or Ford Focus? What's the benefit of these over the Honda Fit? I test drove a bunch of hatchbacks, and while they all drove pretty similarly, the flexibility of the interior of the Fit was a huge bonus. It's like a damned minivan back there with the seats folded down.
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Jun 4, 2015 14:25
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AreWeDrunkYet posted:What's the benefit of these over the Honda Fit? I test drove a bunch of hatchbacks, and while they all drove pretty similarly, the flexibility of the interior of the Fit was a huge bonus. It's like a damned minivan back there with the seats folded down. Personally? Fits look like a damned minivan. And there's the Honda Tax. But they're absolutely fine cars.
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Jun 4, 2015 14:56
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AreWeDrunkYet posted:What's the benefit of these over the Honda Fit? I test drove a bunch of hatchbacks, and while they all drove pretty similarly, the flexibility of the interior of the Fit was a huge bonus. It's like a damned minivan back there with the seats folded down. Specifically, the Mazda 3 drives better and at least historically, Focuses have been $4k+ cheaper than comparable Fits. For reference, last year my wife bought a Focus Titanium Hatchback with almost every single option checked for $18k, and my coworker bought a decently equipped SE hatchback for $14k.
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Jun 4, 2015 15:39
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Yes the folding seats give you more space than most other cars in the same category, but it's still a tiny car with a short wheelbase. Folding up the seats isn't going to help with rear passenger legroom, and 118hp vs ~170hp isn't nothing. For a lot of people you are probably right though, and the Fit is a perennial bestseller in other markets where larger and thirstier cars are relatively much more expensive than they are in North America. EDIT: In the past Honda wasn't interested in selling too many of them, so there was no flexibility with pricing. Now that they have shifted production to Mexico they might be able to compete a little bit more.
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Jun 4, 2015 16:11
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A little backstory. I was involved in a wreck that was pretty crazy and scary for me. I was in the left most lane passing on a 4 lane interstate and a car swerved to avoid something infront of them and smashed my passenger side tire on the front. It lifted me off the ground for a few seconds and as soon as I hit the ground, I couldn't steer and was locked into a path that made me swerve in an arc across all four lanes of traffic and thankfully didn't hit anyone on the way. Proposed Budget: < 7k New or Used: Used Body Style: SUV or Wagon How will you be using the car?: I'll be using this car primarily to go back and forth to work but will be needing the space because I have a new 1 year old boy that is starting to get bigger, and my wife is pregnant with #2. So we'll need the space and everything when we decide to go out. What aspects are most important to you: Reliability, space, comfort. I'm currently looking at a 2003 Land Rover Freelancer with <85,000 miles on it for around 5.5 grand. There's also a 2003 Mercedes-Benz C-Class C240 4MATIC Wagon with <100k miles (barely) for 8 grand. Are these decent choices? I'm trying to avoid something super old with enough longevity to last around 4-5 years at least. I'll end up doing my financing through my bank again because I'll more than likely get the lowest rate that way. However, if they offer me a better rate, is it safe to go with their financing?
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Jun 4, 2015 16:59
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Soulex posted:What aspects are most important to you: Reliability, space, comfort. Nope, you're looking at a Land Rover and a Mercedes from their era of worst reliability. Why not a CR-V or RAV4 if you really need to have the SUV form factor? Mazda 5 might work well too.
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Jun 4, 2015 17:10
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We're all really just having fun in this thread but if you buy a 2003 Freelander then I would be genuinely concerned about the financial and physical security of your family, and your wife should 100% divorce you before it's too late.
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Jun 4, 2015 17:22
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Tricky Ed posted:Auto or manual? What trim level? And how much driving will you be doing? It's an automatic, I don't know what trim. I pretty much would just drive 2 miles to and from work, grocery store, etc. It's a gamble, I guess. If I get a year or two out of it without too many repair bills, I'd be happy.
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Jun 4, 2015 17:49
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I will go out on a limb and say that if you need to finance a $7,000 car, you can't afford a 12 year old luxury vehicle...
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Jun 4, 2015 18:13
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Uthor posted:I will go out on a limb and say that if you need to finance a $7,000 car, you can't afford a 12 year old luxury vehicle... The twist is that no one can afford a 2003 Freelander.
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Jun 4, 2015 18:31
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IRQ posted:Mazda3 or Ford Focus? Strange, these were my last two cars before the mini. Are the newer models significantly more reliable? My 00 focus tried to strand me more than once.
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Jun 4, 2015 19:02
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Wow I had no idea freelanders were that bad. I just thought "looks nice, low mileage compared to the others, might be worth a shot." I know better now. I'll try the RAV 4 and other mentioned. What mileage should I be concerned with when buying it? edit: let me reiterate, I'm not locked at 7 grand, I just wanted to keep the payments down, but I guess I could always finance longer. Bank said I can have a 7k loan over 5 years for 7.75 APR, letting me pay 50 something bucks every two weeks when I get paid. I'm not tied to SUVs, I just figured having 2 kids, 2 dogs, and a wife would make it easier to go places if we had a bigger vehicle. Soulex fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 19:40
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Goddamn it edit isn''t quote. There's a CX-7 2007 with 100k. Are those worth it? Or should I just move on to trying to get a minivan or something? It's 9k though Same with a Mitsubishi outlander 2010 model. Soulex fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 20:17
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Soulex posted:Wow I had no idea freelanders were that bad. I just thought "looks nice, low mileage compared to the others, might be worth a shot." I know better now. I'll try the RAV 4 and other mentioned. What mileage should I be concerned with when buying it? That rate is terrible. Many banks won't finance vehicles older than 7 years or over 100k miles. I imagine that's just an unsecured loan that you can purchase whatever with. If that's the route you need to go, I would try lending tree or someone like Penfed if you're eligible.
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Jun 4, 2015 22:12
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ifuckedjesus posted:That rate is terrible. Many banks won't finance vehicles older than 7 years or over 100k miles. I imagine that's just an unsecured loan that you can purchase whatever with. If that's the route you need to go, I would try lending tree or someone like Penfed if you're eligible. It more than likely is. It wasn't that high whenever I bought my other car with them. I've never heard of penfed, I use USAA right now.
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Jun 4, 2015 22:49
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What's everyone take on the Acura ILX and Audi A3? I'd be looking at 2014 certified or used models.
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Jun 4, 2015 23:18
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Buying a used Audi is a bad idea.
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Jun 5, 2015 01:53
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