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I bought it  There is an eight-piece chisel set on Amazon for $17. Good for a first timer? I have a pocket knife sharpening stone and don't mind resharpening them every few minutes.
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Jul 19, 2015 23:28
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Aliquid posted:I bought it I don't know about for turning but if you have an aldi store in your area apparently their cheapo chisels are quite good. https://paulsellers.com/2015/06/aldi-chisels-in-usa-stores/
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Jul 20, 2015 00:12
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Aliquid posted:I bought it I don't think you'll regret the decision. You may decide you want to upgrade sooner rather than later, but you probably won't ever say, "That was a dumb idea."
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Jul 20, 2015 00:24
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Squibbles posted:I don't know about for turning but if you have an aldi store in your area apparently their cheapo chisels are quite good. Oh cool, I never checked an Aldi because I assumed they were only over in the UK and the US wouldn't get them. I'll have to check that this week.
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Jul 20, 2015 01:00
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Hypnolobster posted:Oh cool, I never checked an Aldi because I assumed they were only over in the UK and the US wouldn't get them. I'll have to check that this week. Aldi the grocery chain? We just had two open in town.
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Jul 20, 2015 02:11
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On safety and table saws, I find the router to be the one tool that makes me concentrate the most. My table saw is 2 HP but the router is 2.25 but its in my hands and has a nasty shank rotating at 7000 rpm.. Even in a router table I am more alert about the router than the table saw.
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Jul 20, 2015 02:16
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Sylink posted:On safety and table saws, I find the router to be the one tool that makes me concentrate the most. My table saw is 2 HP but the router is 2.25 but its in my hands and has a nasty shank rotating at 7000 rpm.. I'd say it's probably easier to slip and run a body part into the router vs. the table saw, but it's also probably easier for the table saw to grab your workpiece and fling it through your torso than it is for the router. The tablesaw has more power; the router is better at just eating everything that comes near it.
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Jul 20, 2015 03:37
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mds2 posted:Aldi the grocery chain? We just had two open in town. Hah yep apparently so: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/2oprld/help_get_paul_sellers_favorite_chisels_sold_in/
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Jul 20, 2015 04:26
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Squibbles posted:Hah yep apparently so: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/2oprld/help_get_paul_sellers_favorite_chisels_sold_in/ I'll be damned. I haven't been in one yet but I'll check it out.
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Jul 20, 2015 12:52
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Huh, I had no idea aldi had anything but food. I think there is one 15-20 minutes from me, I'll have to go check it out. I went to the Ann Arbor art fair over the weekend, there were some incredible pieces there. Mostly turners, some furniture makes as well. I probably only made it through 60% of the place, I'm sure I missed some good stuff. link to full album     (Next 4 images) This guy had pieces in a bunch of museums, incredible stuff.       This guy was a total douche, would hardly answer any of my questions and got really annoyed when I asked him about the burls and his equipment for turning them.   
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Jul 20, 2015 14:56
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bimmian posted:Huh, I had no idea aldi had anything but food. I think there is one 15-20 minutes from me, I'll have to go check it out. Nice pics, that poo poo's insane. Must be nice to live that kind of life....pause
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Jul 20, 2015 15:35
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Okay the beginning of the piano project. Right now it's just breakdown work. Piano after I took the top off and removed the action, keys and the covers.  Pile of keeper parts  Close up of the music stand and engravings  Closeup of the harp and embossing and painting  I am in the process of breaking down the bottom part right now and removing the pedals and levers but I'm taking a break because it's 94 degrees outside and I'm hot.
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Jul 20, 2015 22:55
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Okay the beginning of the piano project. Right now it's just breakdown work. If those keys are actually ivory or have ivory covered tops glued on, you should probably consider selling them. They are worth a lot on the second hand market.
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Jul 21, 2015 02:35
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The junk collector posted:If those keys are actually ivory or have ivory covered tops glued on, you should probably consider selling them. They are worth a lot on the second hand market. They are ivory covered, front and top with 3 ivory sections per key. But it is highly illegal to sell them and against the CITES treaty. A federal offense. I would rather make wall art.
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Jul 21, 2015 07:10
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Errant Gin Monks posted:They are ivory covered, front and top with 3 ivory sections per key. Not for those keys it isn't. That piano was built (and the ivory for the keys harvested) long before 1976 (if it's African) or 1973 and is at least 100 years old and built prior to 1982 in the US. http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/stories/articles/2015/06/22/ivory-law
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Jul 21, 2015 07:58
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Okay the beginning of the piano project. Right now it's just breakdown work. Errant Gin Monks posted:They are ivory covered, front and top with 3 ivory sections per key. I think you should stick with Plan A, it's a lovely old piece of craftsmanship. Looks like mahogany in the 3rd picture, maybe African mahogany....
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Jul 21, 2015 15:24
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Magnus Praeda posted:Not for those keys it isn't. That piano was built (and the ivory for the keys harvested) long before 1976 (if it's African) or 1973 and is at least 100 years old and built prior to 1982 in the US. Don't you have to have documentation though?
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Jul 21, 2015 15:39
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I vote keep the ivory and make something cool with it.
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Jul 21, 2015 15:52
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I've got a pile of osage orange that I've been meaning to do something with for years. It's pretty hard: comes in at 2400 in the janka test. Anyhow, I finally shoved one of the logs through my bandsaw, and I think I'm going to start by making a mallet. So my question is: what orientation do I want the grain (I assumed end-grain on the business face, but thought I should double-check), and do I want the center of the log, or should I make the head from a piece off-center? I'm not to worried about it splitting at this point, since it's been drying for about 5 years now, in ~1' long logs. e: peep my log     Not perfect cuts but I was just trimming off the outside and since the log started with a "flat" side, I just went for it, making the cuts get progressively nicer as I produce nicer faces. That final block is about 10x8x6 and weighs a ton. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 20:37
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Beautiful wood. End grain on the face, yes. Paul sellers suggests traditionally mallet makers would use areas close to knots for the mallet head since the wood is even harder there. Also I don't think you want to include the pith/centre because I think that bit is often softer or at least less stable. Wood that includes the pith wants to shrink in different directions on opposite sides of centre so you'd be more prone to having the mallet get checks or splits radiating out from the centre I think.
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Jul 21, 2015 20:58
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Huh, well cool, because I've got a big ol' knot right there that I was trying to decide how to work around.  Or I should just call it done and put a handle on it. A 20-pound mallet is useful, right? Maybe carve MJÖLNIR in the side.
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Jul 21, 2015 21:00
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Looking at an easy way to mass produce some end grain cutting boards. I wan't to create a pretty complex design(nerdy pixel art boards), so having multiples in one go would be great. Anyone see a problem with this plan? I tried google to see if this was a common thing, but couldn't find anything. I figure I can slice my strips as normal but glue them up as a giant cube, and then cut slices off. This would give me multiple boards with the same design and very minimal end grain sanding. Thoughts?  I'd probably have to slice it on the band saw, so the biggest issue I see is blade drift. But I hope I can minimize that with a good fence and a thick blade. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 21:15
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I'd probably have to slice it on the band saw, so the biggest issue I see is blade drift. But I hope I can minimize that with a good fence and a thick blade. What kind of bandsaw do you have? My 14" Grizzly can't resaw more than I think 7 or 8 inches, which would put a somewhat narrow cap on one of the dimensions of your boards. Otherwise, given the amount of grain you're going across, I think your blade would probably dull pretty quickly (aren't crosscuts harder on blades than ripcuts?).
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Jul 21, 2015 21:19
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Okay, I cut my blank out. It's vastly oversized at 3x4x8, but at that size it weighs in at a whopping 3 pounds (about 1.3kg for you foreigners.) Yikes. Not sure how big/heavy to make it. An 8oz would probably be the most handy, but I can make that out of the cutoffs from the log. I don't really foresee needing anything over 16oz, since I never even reach for my 16oz rubber mallet anyhow. Hum. If my math is right, this stuff is coming in at about 2oz per cubic inch. Blank on the left, a couple blocks and a board as scraps on the right. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 21:27
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mds2 posted:I vote keep the ivory and make something cool with it. I'm planning on doing something like this and hanging it in my drum room/office  Stultus Maximus posted:Don't you have to have documentation though? From what I understand yes you have to have documentation and it was probably illegal for me to buy this piano in the first place because of the keys. Not that they ever really care about that. Mr. Mambold posted:I think you should stick with Plan A, it's a lovely old piece of craftsmanship. Looks like mahogany in the 3rd picture, maybe African mahogany.... Thanks! I do not know what the veneer is. I need to get the bad "antiqued" black paint job off of it. I can see the original varnish on the internals and it was a reddish mohagony varnish. It's nicely alligators inside. The piano itself seems to be made of oak or pine. I'm leaning towards pine since it is so light and dry and kind of fibrous when I pull pieces out of the internals. The soundboard is definitely pine. I'm curious to see the wood veneer underneath all this junk on it. The only pieces that are solid are the legs and keybed. I finished tearing out everything but the harp and soundboard so it's sawzall time next!  This is the pile of junk wood. I will probably save the key peg board for wall mounting purposes. 
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Jul 21, 2015 21:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What kind of bandsaw do you have? My 14" Grizzly can't resaw more than I think 7 or 8 inches, which would put a somewhat narrow cap on one of the dimensions of your boards. Ah fair points. My band saw is 14" as well. I was kinda thinking I could resaw that full size. I just got it and I've only used small bad saws before. Is the full height just too much for it to handle? Dulling the blade isn't something I had considered either. I could try doing the cuts on a table saw as well. 1 cut per side like when you make a box. But that seems pretty dangerous and I'd also be limited by my blades max height. Maybe this idea won't work. 
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Jul 21, 2015 21:45
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Also, no amount of dialing in on any of those tools would prevent you needing to sand the hell out of the cutoff, or better yet running it through a drum sander.
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Jul 21, 2015 21:51
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Ah fair points. My band saw is 14" as well. I was kinda thinking I could resaw that full size. I just got it and I've only used small bad saws before. Is the full height just too much for it to handle? Don't confuse resaw height with depth of cut. A 14" bandsaw has 14"-diameter wheels moving the blade, so it's physically impossible to cut off a section more than 14" wide because the cut-off piece would hit the blade twice: once where you intend to cut it, and then again 14" where the blade returns to the top wheel. In practice you get less than 14" because there's the supports/guards around the blade taking up space. The resaw height is just limited by how tall the bandsaw is. You could theoretically have a 14" bandsaw with a resaw height of 30", if you could figure out how to deal with blade drift (or alternately, figure out how to run a 3"-wide blade around a 14" wheel). My bandsaw's blades are IIRC 94" inches. A lot of that is taken up by the wheels and guide bearings; the rest is what's left for resaw height.
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Jul 21, 2015 22:24
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Errant Gin Monks posted:
That has all kinds of steampunk potential if you're into that sort of thing...or maybe build it into a headboard for a bed....it really is cool looking.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:01
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Mr. Mambold posted:That has all kinds of steampunk potential if you're into that sort of thing...or maybe build it into a headboard for a bed....it really is cool looking. Looking at the thumbnail, I thought, "Hey, that's a cool bench."
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Jul 21, 2015 23:38
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Mr. Mambold posted:That has all kinds of steampunk potential if you're into that sort of thing...or maybe build it into a headboard for a bed....it really is cool looking. I am actually going to turn it into a headboard for the new platform bed I am making. Although it will be covered in plexi for safety.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Don't confuse resaw height with depth of cut. A 14" bandsaw has 14"-diameter wheels moving the blade, so it's physically impossible to cut off a section more than 14" wide because the cut-off piece would hit the blade twice: once where you intend to cut it, and then again 14" where the blade returns to the top wheel. In practice you get less than 14" because there's the supports/guards around the blade taking up space. The resaw height is just limited by how tall the bandsaw is. You could theoretically have a 14" bandsaw with a resaw height of 30", if you could figure out how to deal with blade drift (or alternately, figure out how to run a 3"-wide blade around a 14" wheel). Yeah you can get bandsaw risers to increase the depth limit but as you say I bet drift would be an issue. Plus the power needed to cut through that much wood would be a lot higher? Maybe the cutting boards could be made in an upper and lower block that get cut separately then glued up? Or would that cause a lot of alignment issues?
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Jul 22, 2015 00:52
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Squibbles posted:Maybe the cutting boards could be made in an upper and lower block that get cut separately then glued up? Or would that cause a lot of alignment issues? No moreso than normal cutting board glue-ups would, I would expect.
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Jul 22, 2015 01:35
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Found an interesting youtube channel that seems pretty small so you guys might not have seen it. It's not all woodworking though there is a fair bit in there if you dig around. It's an Irish couple that live in the south west of Ireland on a farm and he makes some interesting and inventive projects. There's a series of videos on making a clockwork doughnut cart (still in progress) and various other oddities. There's another 3 part series on making a horse drawn hearse. Here's a home made panel saw for cutting up sheets of plywood: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu5UU10F7NQ Here's a video talking about a device he's working on for lazy guitarists who don't want to actually learn chords: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2dwz8Svfeg Here he's reinforced bicycle tires with wood including rims and spokes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MU8QSCyenKw
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Jul 22, 2015 04:37
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, I cut my blank out. It's vastly oversized at 3x4x8, but at that size it weighs in at a whopping 3 pounds (about 1.3kg for you foreigners.) Yikes. Check out the Paul Sellers video series and article on this. https://paulsellers.com/2013/04/heres-my-mallet/ I made mine about the same size, pictures a few pages back. 4" tall, and 6" long and 3" wide. Now I think a heavy wooden mallet is precisely what I need, for lighter stuff I reach for the small plastic faced hammer, so I made this one to be heavy and have lots of momentum.
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Jul 22, 2015 07:31
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His Divine Shadow posted:Check out the Paul Sellers video series and article on this. Ha, he specifically mentions osage orange in that article, cool.
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Jul 22, 2015 15:08
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Errant Gin Monks posted:I am actually going to turn it into a headboard for the new platform bed I am making. Although it will be covered in plexi for safety. You actually already posted that was your intention, didn't you. My bad, short-term memory loss, lol. Keep us posted with pics, it's a great idea.
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Jul 22, 2015 15:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:You actually already posted that was your intention, didn't you. My bad, short-term memory loss, lol. Keep us posted with pics, it's a great idea. Not a problem man! New pics. This is the beam thing that holds the top of the harp steady and resists the tension of the strings. It's a long beam with a million little blocks laminated between the the upright supports. This is what I am cutting out basically along the sides. It's only about 7 inches tall so after its cut out the rest is pretty easy.  Here is a close up of the front of the soundboard. It has some kind of clear coat on it but if anyone can tell me what kind of wood (my best guess is pine) that would be cool  Here is the back of the soundboard, it does not have a clear coat here.  Here is a closeup of one of the pieces I have taken off and thrown in the scrap pile. It's super light and brittle. Almost like driftwood. I don't know if this is because it's 110 years old or what. If anyone can identify the wood this is made of this is the majority of the piano sub structure. The main structure is much denser and heavier wood.  Speaking of dense heavy wood I unscrewed these to see if I can get them out to strip them easier and right now NOPE! They are not loving budging. But the carving where it's not damaged is very cool. Some dings and gouges and a few good sized chips are missing from these legs but that just adds character to me. 
Errant Gin Monks fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 00:38
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Errant Gin Monks posted:
It looks like spruce. It is a commonly used wood for soundboards in guitars and violins.
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Jul 23, 2015 01:20
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Hahaha some people on craigslist have quite the expectations... http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rch/mat/5102805547.html 2.5" thick x 96" long x 42" wide reclaimed douglas fir table top and they want $1800 Admittedly those are some big chunks of fir but well over $20 per board foot seems a liiitle excessive to me.
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Jul 23, 2015 02:07
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