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Squibbles posted:Haha yeah, I don't get it at all. The casting on the lever cap is super bad too. Maybe it's just a more modern cheap Chinese knock off? I'm not sure it's even salvageable.  Probably flat, though, as I figure that'd be cheaper to manufacture.At the least, maybe the screws for the frog and handles could be kept as spares. Spazz posted:What's the opinion on the Granberg chainsaw mills? A buddy of mine works for a tree trimming company and I could probably get some decent sized logs for free off him if I arranged it, I would just need to process it myself.
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Jul 28, 2015 21:53
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Mr. Mambold posted:All a cheap studfinder does is point a magnet to a drywall screw or nail in the stud.
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Jul 28, 2015 22:18
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Spazz posted:What's the opinion on the Granberg chainsaw mills? A buddy of mine works for a tree trimming company and I could probably get some decent sized logs for free off him if I arranged it, I would just need to process it myself. I can megapost about milling (and bandsaw vs chainsaw milling) if you want, but the long and short of it is that chainsaw milling needs a big chainsaw. 90cc saw's are probably the minimum if you want to aim for longevity of the chainsaw. Chainsaw milling is as good as your setup will be, meaning that learning the real guts of sharpening, setting up your rails perfectly and running consistent pressure on the saw/not stopping can yield a pretty goddamned clean cut, and perfectly flat cuts. You can get into it for under $1000 if you're thrifty, obviously less if you already have a large saw. Pick up the largest Mk3 Granberg you can afford (and don't buy it from Lee Valley http://granberg.com/catalog/granberg-chainsaw-mills/alaskan-mk-iii-mill ), get the Granberg ripping chain and for rails you can use straight lumber or a fresh aluminum ladder. Bandsaws are expensive, meaning about $4k to get into it, and has a similar learning curve as chainsaw milling, but a different set of problems. Building one is also a possibility but it's a giant pain in the rear end (ask me how I know ) and will be more troubleshooting than milling for a good while.e: I posted this a while back, but here are a couple pictures of some chainsaw milling and some bandsaw milling I do http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334&pagenumber=184&perpage=40#post428314428
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Jul 28, 2015 22:21
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Hypnolobster posted:I can megapost about milling (and bandsaw vs chainsaw milling) if you want Well I don't know about the other guy, but I want. 
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Jul 28, 2015 22:22
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Yeah, that sounds interesting. If you have the time, please share!
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Jul 28, 2015 22:53
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Geop posted:Well the chip-breaker is junk I figure. If it's an older plane, maybe the planing iron is made of a good metal, at least? Then again, if the cap iron is lousy, then that makes me think otherwise. It's got wooden handles, so even if it's a knock-off, I figure 60s or earlier, maybe? At least I think that's when plastic handles started getting cranked out. Out of random curiosity, is it a flat or corrugated sole? Once again, just curious Flat sole on it. Also the front tote looks OK but the back handle has been replaced by some kind of trashy looking soft wood. I would say the surface of it actually looks and feels like mdf but there's a little chip in the top showing some wood grain so I don't know what kind of wood it really is. The handle is also lose and doesn't look like it fits very well. All around quality piece of hardware. I'll have to give it a check to see if the screws fit my other planes, that's a good idea.
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Jul 28, 2015 23:56
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MickRaider posted:Actually they measure the capacitance change. They haven't used the magnet method in a long time. Shows how long ago I looked at one....I better just back out of the studfinder discussion, it's too hi-tech for me anymore.
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Jul 29, 2015 00:26
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I've been using a rare earth magnet as a stud finder for years. When it finds a screw or nail, it sticks right there as a convenient marker. 
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Jul 29, 2015 01:25
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I was told by a friend who's a joiner & timberman (local word for carpenter I think, builds houses) that milling your own is basically never worth it. You should take your logs to your local sawyer, he says it's usually about 5 euros a log to saw it into 2" boards, less for thicker boards. I'm thinking about buying some logs of long straight spruce, or pine, as I will be needing in a couple of years, more storage and I think I'd like to build a timber frame shed.
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Jul 29, 2015 04:50
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Here's a few more pictures of the cheapo mystery plane. It fascinates me for some reason. The full album that includes a few pictures of the other two planes I got as well: http://imgur.com/a/4TFQT Here's the underside of the cap, the casting looks pretty rough to me, but maybe that's normal:  Here's the weird colour/texture of the rear handle:  Oddly the plane bed and the frog are different colours. The plane is blue and the frog is black. Maybe a replacement someone put in?  Closeup of the depth adjuster. It is pretty thin and light, I think the actual bit that moves the blade up and down might be aluminum, the wheel probably is too I guess given the colour and lack of rust. 
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Jul 29, 2015 05:44
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His Divine Shadow posted:I was told by a friend who's a joiner & timberman (local word for carpenter I think, builds houses) that milling your own is basically never worth it. You should take your logs to your local sawyer, he says it's usually about 5 euros a log to saw it into 2" boards, less for thicker boards. That's great, IF they're willing to do it for something as small as a log or two. Where I live, they aren't. Maybe if I got lucky and met someone with their own little bandsaw mill, but so far, I haven't found anyone like that. Which means the burden falls upon me to be that guy. You know, like a public service. That's why I wanna do it. Altruism.
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Jul 29, 2015 06:24
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Okay, still brand-new so I'm trying to puzzle things out here. My Barracuda 3000 chuck came in and it wobbles on the spindle. My cheap lathe came with a spur chuck that doesn't wobble and I turned two 5" rough bowls on the spur and tailstock with no trouble. The bowls were larger in diameter and further from the motor with extremely little wobble, and so I think the problem is my new chuck. Without carrying a load, the Barracuda wobbles a good millimeter or so which is horrifying. When the chuck arrived in the mail, I spent half an hour with tweezers taking out twisted metal flakes on the inner end-thread. Do I have bad machining/runout on the chuck? Am I overlooking something else? I feel I could correct the problem by using the spindle nut, but the spindle's not long enough to carry both the nut and chuck. Can that be extended?
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Jul 29, 2015 08:03
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Matt Cremona has a bunch of videos about chainsaw milling and making lumber. He also gets a bunch of logs processed by a local guy with a bandmill though, I guess it's way more cost effective. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyZy_wVg7rw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8_3i-C_04U There are more on his youtube channel if you click around.
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Jul 29, 2015 08:19
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Aliquid posted:Okay, still brand-new so I'm trying to puzzle things out here. My Barracuda 3000 chuck came in and it wobbles on the spindle. My cheap lathe came with a spur chuck that doesn't wobble and I turned two 5" rough bowls on the spur and tailstock with no trouble. The bowls were larger in diameter and further from the motor with extremely little wobble, and so I think the problem is my new chuck. Without carrying a load, the Barracuda wobbles a good millimeter or so which is horrifying. When the chuck arrived in the mail, I spent half an hour with tweezers taking out twisted metal flakes on the inner end-thread. Do I have bad machining/runout on the chuck? Am I overlooking something else? I feel I could correct the problem by using the spindle nut, but the spindle's not long enough to carry both the nut and chuck. Can that be extended? I guess one way to check would be to get a faceplate of a similar diameter to the chuck and see if it wobbles. I haven't really had a chance to play with a chuck not having access to one but that's what I'd probably do tbh. Nothing is worse than stuff that wobbles on a lathe. It adds a whole other level of brown pants, similar to turning wearing only goggles rather than a face shield
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Jul 29, 2015 09:46
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Squibbles posted:Here's the underside of the cap, the casting looks pretty rough to me, but maybe that's normal: Just noticed, but the adjusting screw/nut on those in the gallery aren't brass. I mean, I can't think of when I saw one that wasn't brass. Maybe I've just had an odd streak
Geop fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jul 29, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 19:13
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I've gotten to the point on my workshop project where I need to start thinking about installing windows and a door. The windows are not a huge problem; I made certain that the openings are standard sizes, so I can just buy off the shelf. The door rough opening, however, is 45" wide and 89" tall, and I'm reasonably confident that means I'll need to fabricate my own door. Any particular recommendations? Since this is a workshop, I was kind of figuring I'd do a barn-style door of vertical boards (probably joined tongue-and-groove to prevent air gaps) with a Z-shaped backing to keep it rigid. That would be a super-heavy door if made out of Douglas Fir...but I'm unsure that's actually a problem if it's mounted well. I could also make it out of pine, which would lighten it significantly. Other materials would greatly up the cost though. Of course I could also make it out of plywood, but aesthetically I think I'd rather do real wood.
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Jul 31, 2015 14:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've gotten to the point on my workshop project where I need to start thinking about installing windows and a door. The windows are not a huge problem; I made certain that the openings are standard sizes, so I can just buy off the shelf. The door rough opening, however, is 45" wide and 89" tall, and I'm reasonably confident that means I'll need to fabricate my own door. Doug fir isn't particularly heavy if it's seasoned. You could probably fabricate a washboard type design with 1x6" horizontals let into a dual-panel frame of M&T'd 2x4* seasoned Douglass Fir and not have to worry about backing.... *edit: 2x6 or 8" wide
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Jul 31, 2015 15:49
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This plywood door comes out looking OK I think http://www.ibuildit.ca/Woodworking%20Projects/door-1.html
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Jul 31, 2015 16:07
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You could also make a plywood door then cover it in thin pieces of the fir/pine to get your desired look. Sort of like a veneer.
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Jul 31, 2015 16:23
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Mr. Mambold posted:Doug fir isn't particularly heavy if it's seasoned. You could probably fabricate a washboard type design with 1x6" horizontals let into a dual-panel frame of M&T'd 2x4* seasoned Douglass Fir and not have to worry about backing....  right, the fir I've been working with has been heavy because it has so much water in it. Every once in awhile I'd get a board that had actually had time to dry and they weighed less than half what the others did, easily.What do you mean by a washboard design? I Googled and turned up lots of entries on...washboards and hiding them behind doors. Do you just mean making two rectangular panels, that 1x6 boards could be inset into?
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Jul 31, 2015 16:39
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I have a friend with a bunch of apple trees that are slated to get cut and I've been given free reign to collect what I want. I'm just planning on grabbing a few logs and maybe some crotches (and any burls but I don't know that apple trees even grow burls, and if they do, I doubt there are any out there) but is there anything extra fun y'all can think of that I should look out for?
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Jul 31, 2015 17:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
Lol, sorry yeah, just running 1x6 or 1x4's inside a frame- maybe V-groove them to give the 'washboard' look, but that's just cosmetic, since you were talking about T&G'ing them. I'm sure you've seen plenty of car siding that's got the combo T&G with a bevel edge; may just consider purchasing that rather than milling it up, if you went that route. You could cut 88" outer stiles with a top, center & bottom rail to split into 2 panels, end up with a 42" wide +- door, that's how I'd go. I think the weight would still be reasonable. There's plenty of coniferous woods besides Fir that are pretty straight and stable once they've been seasoned or kiln dried, and stability is the factor you want. Just some ideas...it probably does not even go with the ambiance of your shop, looks-wise, lol.
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Jul 31, 2015 17:53
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Bad Munki posted:I have a friend with a bunch of apple trees that are slated to get cut and I've been given free reign to collect what I want. I'm just planning on grabbing a few logs and maybe some crotches (and any burls but I don't know that apple trees even grow burls, and if they do, I doubt there are any out there) but is there anything extra fun y'all can think of that I should look out for? Be sure they are consenting adult trees. I'd be interested to know if the lumber has a natural apple scent, like for lining a chest or closet.
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Jul 31, 2015 17:58
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Mr. Mambold posted:Lol, sorry yeah, just running 1x6 or 1x4's inside a frame- maybe V-groove them to give the 'washboard' look, but that's just cosmetic, since you were talking about T&G'ing them. You mean Louvered? 
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Jul 31, 2015 17:59
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Aliquid posted:Okay, still brand-new so I'm trying to puzzle things out here. My Barracuda 3000 chuck came in and it wobbles on the spindle. My cheap lathe came with a spur chuck that doesn't wobble and I turned two 5" rough bowls on the spur and tailstock with no trouble. The bowls were larger in diameter and further from the motor with extremely little wobble, and so I think the problem is my new chuck. Without carrying a load, the Barracuda wobbles a good millimeter or so which is horrifying. When the chuck arrived in the mail, I spent half an hour with tweezers taking out twisted metal flakes on the inner end-thread. Do I have bad machining/runout on the chuck? Am I overlooking something else? I feel I could correct the problem by using the spindle nut, but the spindle's not long enough to carry both the nut and chuck. Can that be extended? Running out of ideas, not exactly sure what's going on. Do I send this thing back?
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Jul 31, 2015 18:01
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Mr. Mambold posted:Just some ideas...it probably does not even go with the ambiance of your shop, looks-wise, lol. Given the shop currently looks like this:  I think I have a pretty free hand with the ambiance.  Thanks for the suggestions! The other thing I guess I want to consider is how thick the door should be. .75" (a.k.a. 1x) thickness for most of it seems kind of thin even for solid wood, but maybe I'm overdoing it?
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Jul 31, 2015 18:02
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has anyone seen this yet: http://shapertools.com It is essentially a handheld CNC router. there is a pretty cool video if your scroll down a little.
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Jul 31, 2015 18:33
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Aliquid posted:Running out of ideas, not exactly sure what's going on. Do I send this thing back? Can you get a pic of the those threads? Did the chips you pulled out feel like they were attached? Sounds like they milled or tapped the threads with a chipped tool, I would definitely seek a replacement if so. Also possible they drilled the thing off center, either way not saying good things about their QC.
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Jul 31, 2015 18:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Given the shop currently looks like this: That's all up to you, but typical exterior house doors are 8/4, surfaced down to 1 3/4". That's close to what dimensional lumber is already, except you don't go there- unless you just lucked out at HD, had your moisture meter handy, and found some really dry, straight framing lumber  .75" seems almost too flimsy for a full size door like that, imo, but whatever. You could do like one guy said and cut a piece out of a sheet of 3/4 plywood, hinge it and call it done. The 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 thick stock will permit you to plow in a nice fat dado to let in up to 3/4 panel or T&G, whatever, and you end up with a solid door. Heck, you could make the panels out of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood, nothing fancy, boom, done. Whenever I built a door from scratch, I'd go with that for the stiles & rails & build the panels in however required.
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Jul 31, 2015 18:42
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Hubis posted:You mean Louvered? No, this stuff. 
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Jul 31, 2015 18:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's all up to you, but typical exterior house doors are 8/4, surfaced down to 1 3/4". Good to know; I was planning to measure the thickness of my front door when I got home and now I don't have to. I thought using 1x lumber for panels seemed over-thin.quote:That's close to what dimensional lumber is already, except you don't go there- unless you just lucked out at HD, had your moisture meter handy, and found some really dry, straight framing lumber Yeah, I'd go to the local lumberyard and get some select kiln-dried instead. You can find straight lumber at HD if you're willing to spend some time searching, but you won't find dry Douglas Fir; it's all soaked through. Thanks for the advice!
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Jul 31, 2015 19:07
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mds2 posted:has anyone seen this yet: http://shapertools.com They talked about that on Making It a few weeks ago, it premiered at Maker Faire. It looks pretty cool but I imagine it will be hellish expensive.
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Jul 31, 2015 19:26
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mds2 posted:has anyone seen this yet: http://shapertools.com That's really neat. Think of the potential for joinery with that...
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Jul 31, 2015 19:36
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Hey so I'm making a changing table very similar to this one : This design is meant to go over the rails of the crib. I was wondering what the best way to hide the screw or replace them by something else would be. I'm thinking of using woodglue like I did for my cutting boards, but I'm not sure I'll be able to make it nice and straight and everything using just wood glue. May be wood glue + a few finishing nails? If I end up going with screws, what's the best/easiest way to hide them? (other than making wood plugs) My skill level is low and I have access to few tools so I'm not going to make tenons or something like that. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 19:41
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mds2 posted:has anyone seen this yet: http://shapertools.com This would be a game changer for my business.
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Jul 31, 2015 20:35
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Aliquid posted:Running out of ideas, not exactly sure what's going on. Do I send this thing back? I'd send it back post haste. You pulled flakes of metal out of the threads man, how good is the rest of it gonna be. Also to contribute to handheld CNC chat, Shopbot do something similar. http://www.shopbottools.com/mApplications/handibot.htm
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Aug 1, 2015 00:41
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Aliquid posted:Running out of ideas, not exactly sure what's going on. Do I send this thing back? Send it back and buy a Nova G3. I would have said something before but you seemed to have made up your mind and many people are happy with their Barracuda chucks, but Nova is the defacto standard, in America anyway, and the price difference is negligible. Oneway, Hurricane, and Easy Wood Tools also make top quality chucks. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I think I have a pretty free hand with the ambiance. Oooh, door chat. The door on my shop is made from pine 2x6's with a skin of 1x6's; it's heavy as hell and I love it. It basically looks like this but on hinges and not quite as pretty.
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Aug 1, 2015 05:51
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wormil posted:Send it back and buy a Nova G3. I would have said something before but you seemed to have made up your mind and many people are happy with their Barracuda chucks, but Nova is the defacto standard, in America anyway, and the price difference is negligible. Oneway, Hurricane, and Easy Wood Tools also make top quality chucks. Yeah, I understand. Will do and report back in 3 business days.
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Aug 1, 2015 06:55
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MrPete posted:I'd send it back post haste. You pulled flakes of metal out of the threads man, how good is the rest of it gonna be. I got to futz with the handibot last year or there abouts at the NYC makerfaire and it was pretty great. The surface area it cuts is pretty small but it can do really cool joinery for boxes and stuff. They also had a demo of holding it to a wall an doing art relief carvings. While I was there one of their engineers threw a laser inside the machine and I tossed him some sample materials to see what it could cut but it mostly just turned out to be nice for doing wood burning art. All in all, the shopbot guys were pretty cool and the handibot is like the cheapest thing they make.
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Aug 1, 2015 14:08
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One of the things I'm working on in my spare time is something very similar to Shaper, except it's infinite surface area routing for under a grand in COGS at proto quantities. That said, I'm not sure there's an actual honest-to-god market for it.
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Aug 2, 2015 01:34
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