|
CharlieWhiskey posted:My dishwasher poo poo the bed through the floor, through a drop ceiling and onto a thin basement carpet. I scrambled and borrowed a 6 horsepower wet vac and pulled up a few gallons out of the carpet until nearly dry to the touch. While emptying the vac, I realized there was no filter inside. Did I just aerosolize a few gallons out the exhaust? Or does it not work that way?
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 04:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 15:18 |
|
|
Also, with most wet/dry vacs, the instructions usually specifically tell you to remove the filter before using it for liquids. A lot of cylindrical filters are a vertical-mounted friction fit and some will just fall off if they get water-logged enough. For a bonus, a soaked filter is moldy hell in a few days if it's not removed right away and left out to dry.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 04:43
|
|
|
Soo beaten thanks awful app
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 04:54
|
|
|
Mine is a cheapy and it says to take out the filter and to put on a rubber foam condom instead when sucking up water. Assuming yours didn't come with the same type of thing (and probably even if it did) it will be fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 05:32
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:My dishwasher poo poo the bed through the floor, through a drop ceiling and onto a thin basement carpet. I scrambled and borrowed a 6 horsepower wet vac and pulled up a few gallons out of the carpet until nearly dry to the touch. While emptying the vac, I realized there was no filter inside. Did I just aerosolize a few gallons out the exhaust? Or does it not work that way? If your wet-vac is anything like mine, it'll sputter and choke once it gets to the point where it's spitting a non-trivial amount of liquid out of the exhaust. It might be wise to start up the vac and spray some disinfectant into the hose though to tamp out any mold that might accumulate in moisture that got into the blower, though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 05:42
|
|
|
Hubis posted:It might be wise to start up the vac and spray some disinfectant into the hose though to tamp out any mold that might accumulate in moisture that got into the blower, though. Oh just grab some air freshener, you pansy. Source: During a not-short period at my first job, the drains for the soda machines were too horrifically clogged and the owner was putting off the proper fix (which ended up being ripping them out and relaying new pipe). So we used a shopvac when they'd back up, at least three times a night. Yeah. That's a smell I'll never forget. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 07:01
|
|
|
Thanks all. The dehumidifiers worked all night and it's dry as a bone again. The carpet is actually cleaner now than before the mess!
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 06:25
|
|
|
I'd like to get a small compressor. The main purpose is inflating tubeless bicycle tires. Is something like this going to be decent? I like that it goes well above 100 PSI, isn't very big, and seems to be fairly nice for a < $100 compressor.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 16:05
|
|
|
taqueso posted:I'd like to get a small compressor. The main purpose is inflating tubeless bicycle tires. Is something like this going to be decent? I like that it goes well above 100 PSI, isn't very big, and seems to be fairly nice for a < $100 compressor. I've been quite happy with this pancake air compressor, which costs slightly less than the one you listed and has more capacity and a higher max pressure. It's not as portable as yours of course, but you can still easily lift it with one hand and it'd be more versatile for other tasks needing compressed air.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 16:16
|
|
|
I thought the going wisdom among bike people was not to used powered compressors to inflate bike tires?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 19:30
|
|
|
canyoneer posted:I thought the going wisdom among bike people was not to used powered compressors to inflate bike tires? Am I supposed to use an unpowered compressor? Anyway, I'm switching to tubeless, which generally needs a compressor to get air in the tire quick enough to seat the bead. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've been quite happy with this pancake air compressor, which costs slightly less than the one you listed and has more capacity and a higher max pressure. It's not as portable as yours of course, but you can still easily lift it with one hand and it'd be more versatile for other tasks needing compressed air. taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Aug 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 19:46
|
|
|
canyoneer posted:I thought the going wisdom among bike people was not to used powered compressors to inflate bike tires? Then how the hell do you inflate the tyre to 5 bar, while holding it off the ground?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 23:31
|
|
|
A few months from now I'm going to be moving back to America for work, and it's not going to be worth it to bring my tools (wrong plug type, voltage, and generally poor quality). I'm also going to pretty much immediately start renovating my parents' house, including finishing the basement, in the month or so of downtime I'll have. I know it'll take longer (there's a lot of work to be done) but I want to knock out as much as possible before it's just weekends. I was thinking about getting the DeWalt DCK592L2 20v 5-tool combo pack. I haven't had a chance to use any of them, but I've handled them and I like the feel and weight (except for the hammer drill - the front grip feels strange being so close to the body).  There's also the DCX6401 36v combo pack. It's a little expensive and I don't think I'd actually need 36v, but if they're way nicer to use I'd probably make the jump. I've given myself a soft budget of about two grand. I think the combo kit will give me enough to get started, and I can get the bigger pieces (table saw etc) and incidental stuff through craigslist or sales or whatever. Reasonable, or am I way off base?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 03:02
|
|
|
Honestly, I would buy a impact/drill kit and go corded for the rest. Add a matching cordless light and you are set. You will want/need a corded circular saw at minimum. There are some great sales coming up, so if you can wait just a bit, it will be worth it. I'm partial to Makita, buy you won't be disappointed by any major brand. I have the following kit and I barely use the sawzall, grinder, or circular saw. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT601-18-volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B00SCKA6XQ/ the spyder fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Aug 18, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 05:19
|
|
|
Cordless sawzall is my 2nd most used power tool after my cordless drill. Cords are so 20th century.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 06:43
|
|
|
Onion Knight posted:A few months from now I'm going to be moving back to America for work
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 06:57
|
|
|
I really dislike the wastage and cost of batteries so I only go cordless when I really need to. For saws and such I'd keep it corded. But this is personal preference. If battery technology got better (i.e. a battery that could be charged and recharged for a much longer time) I might reconsider but not at this moment for me, it's enough that I got to refurbish my makita drill and driver set sometime in the future, maybe I'll get another year out of them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 08:05
|
|
|
Seconding the keep as much corded as you can. Extention cords are cheap, batteries are not. The only cordless tool I own is a driver. I've tried an 18v cordless skilsaw at the DIY store and while it was a nice tool it was heavier than my 1600W corded saw and nowhere near as powerful.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 13:48
|
|
|
Huh! I'm glad I asked, then. I might do a hammer drill/sawzall combo and get the circular saw corded. I know my parents must have a driver somewhere but if I have to toss one on it's not the end of the world. For the stuff that will be cordless: are brushless motors worth it? I always see reviews online with like LOVE THEM BRUSHLESS MAN NEVER GOIN BACK, but I figure that is just dudes just back from the hardware store. CharlieWhiskey posted:Before or after Thanksgiving? Always wicked good deals on Black Friday.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 14:33
|
|
|
I try to use cordless whenever I can as cords suck. I use my impact driver the most and you should definitely be getting one. I also use my drill and jobmax with the sawzall head quite a bit. I don't have a cordless circular saw, but it's not unusual for me to forgo using my corded one because I didn't want to get it out. I've been happy with my Ridgid stuff, but if I were buying new tools I'd probably go with Milwaukee or Makita due to the number of tools they have.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 14:57
|
|
|
dyne posted:I try to use cordless whenever I can as cords suck. Seconding this. I've got a mix of both, and unless I need it for a heavy-duty job (like pulling out my corded sawzall to demo a porch, for example), my corded stuff generally stays on the shelf. I've got a very similar set to the one Onion Knight posted, and added a black friday drill mostly for the extra batteries and charger, and it's served me well for 10 years. The only corded tool I've used with any regularly since then is my circular saw, but even then, I love the cordless one for little jobs. So I guess it comes down to personal preference? Do you prefer dealing with extension cords and having more power, or do you prefer making sure batteries are charged and having more freedom of movement? As an aside, my dad, brothers, and I literally built a house with a combo of cordless and pneumatic tools, and I can't remember any of us standing around waiting for batteries to charge or wishing we had more power.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 15:12
|
|
|
Onion Knight posted:Huh! I'm glad I asked, then. I might do a hammer drill/sawzall combo and get the circular saw corded. I know my parents must have a driver somewhere but if I have to toss one on it's not the end of the world. It's true brushless tools are better (more power, longer battery life) but they do cost a lot more, I think brushed are still plenty good. I bought into Milwaukee's M12 line and brushed tools came with 1.5Ah batteries but brushless came with 2.0Ah.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 16:28
|
|
|
Onion Knight posted:A few months from now I'm going to be moving back to America for work, and it's not going to be worth it to bring my tools (wrong plug type, voltage, and generally poor quality). I'm also going to pretty much immediately start renovating my parents' house, including finishing the basement, in the month or so of downtime I'll have. I know it'll take longer (there's a lot of work to be done) but I want to knock out as much as possible before it's just weekends. I used to have the 4 piece DeWalt kit until it was time to get new batteries. They bend you over for batteries, although the tools are good quality, dependable. I sold it and got Ryobis, and never regretted it. That was like 13 years ago. I think the voltage differences are somewhat misleading too if you think the more the better. I've had a Rockwell Tiger sawzall since forever but when I had to do major remodel poo poo last month, it was the Ryobi (lighter weight) I used. Same with my Makita hypoid saw, that thing is a beast but I hardly ever have beast jobs to do anymore, I use the cordless- much lighter, easier to control.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 16:35
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:If battery technology got better (i.e. a battery that could be charged and recharged for a much longer time) I might reconsider Do you mean can be recharged more times or hold a bigger charge or hold their charge longer? Because lithium batteries are lighter than NiCad, hold their charge longer and bigger capacities are available. I have 4AH lithium batteries and they hold their charge forever and last for ages.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 20:10
|
|
|
On top of that, they provide more useful power (lower internal resistance) and their discharge curve means they're nearly as powerful when they're about to run out as they are when they're full. They also recharge much faster. The only 'disadvantage' is that they require a bit of circuitry so that you don't over-discharge them. Is the hammerdrill really worth it? AVE on Youtube has torn a few down and is generally pretty critical of trying to actually use the hammer functions on them. I've never had to drill masonry/concrete anyway, but if I was I'd go rent a proper rotary hammer. I can go forever on my M12 and M18 batteries without recharging them when I'm using my screwdriver / drill / impact driver. The only thing I have that I've ever dumped a battery in one sitting is my M18 Sawzall, but even then I can have one charging and one on the tool and still be fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2015 20:18
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Do you mean can be recharged more times or hold a bigger charge or hold their charge longer? Because lithium batteries are lighter than NiCad, hold their charge longer and bigger capacities are available. I have 4AH lithium batteries and they hold their charge forever and last for ages. I too have 4AH lithium batteries, and I mean recharged more times.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 04:39
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Is the hammerdrill really worth it? AVE on Youtube has torn a few down and is generally pretty critical of trying to actually use the hammer functions on them. I've never had to drill masonry/concrete anyway, but if I was I'd go rent a proper rotary hammer. The hammer drills I've used (18v Makita, Dewalt, and Ridgid) are great for most cinder block and red clay brick. However, you'll burn your drill up trying to hammer into poured concrete. The installers at work use mostly Dewalt and Makita, and drill tons of holes into mostly cinder block walls. We do have a proper corded rotary hammer for those instances where the 18v tools won't cut it, but it's rare that we need to pull it out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 07:11
|
|
|
That's good to know. I figured the hammer drill would be up to concrete, but now I guess it might be smarter for me to just rent a rotary if I need it. I doubt I'll actually have much use for one, anyway (and if that changes in the future, more tools is more good) DeWalt, Makita and Milwaukee all make 4-pieces with a driver, impact driver, sawzall, and worklight. I'll probably grab whichever one has the best deal around Thanksgiving or Christmas then get a corded circular saw seperately. Thank you based tool goons.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 07:31
|
|
|
I recently added a cordless circular saw to my tool collection for emergency use. Having to cut up a sheet of ply using a handsaw in the middle of a monster storm like some kind of goddamn savage was really not fun. Maybe I'll never have to use it but it's there and really didn't cost a lot to buy a bare tool to fit the batteries I already had. If you see one on sale sometime it wouldn't kill you to have it in the "just in case" pile.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 09:11
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I can go forever on my M12 and M18 batteries without recharging them when I'm using my screwdriver / drill / impact driver. The only thing I have that I've ever dumped a battery in one sitting is my M18 Sawzall, but even then I can have one charging and one on the tool and still be fine. When I was drilling 2 1/2" holes in floor joists with my M12 drill, I could only get two holes done per charge (with 1.5ah batteries). Even then, I was able to recharge as fast as I drained it and kept it going with just two batteries (at least until the drill got too hot to hold).
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 19:22
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:When I was drilling 2 1/2" holes in floor joists with my M12 drill, I could only get two holes done per charge (with 1.5ah batteries). Even then, I was able to recharge as fast as I drained it and kept it going with just two batteries (at least until the drill got too hot to hold). I bought the M18 7-1/2" circular saw and was using it to cut some 6" pressure treated beams for making a staircase. I'd be able to trim about 3-4 ends (4 cuts each, since i had to cut it from each face to go all the way through) before it just didn't have enough umph to keep going. By that time the second battery was charged again, though. That was some pretty drat heavy-duty work, though -- I get the feeling I could rip plywood or 2x4's all day with that thing and never notice.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 20:30
|
|
|
MrPete posted:I recently added a cordless circular saw to my tool collection for emergency use. I have the Makita 12V circular saw and I use it all the time. My car won't fit a full 4x8 sheet and my preferred lumber yard/hardwood dealer won't cut sheet goods, so I use the saw to cut plywood down to 2x8 in the parking lot. I haven't depleted a battery yet so I'm not sure about the limits, but I cut four sheets (so 32 feet of actual cut) of 1/2" shop-grade ply on a single battery last time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 21:34
|
|
|
King Hotpants posted:I have the Makita 12V circular saw and I use it all the time. My car won't fit a full 4x8 sheet and my preferred lumber yard/hardwood dealer won't cut sheet goods, so I use the saw to cut plywood down to 2x8 in the parking lot. I haven't depleted a battery yet so I'm not sure about the limits, but I cut four sheets (so 32 feet of actual cut) of 1/2" shop-grade ply on a single battery last time. Same scenario now that I've "upgraded" to a sedan from a van. Hell if I knew of a car that did fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood, I'd buy it. Maybe cut down one of those old Mercury road yachts into an El Camino/Ranchero style would be close. My wife used to strap 6x8 fence panels to the top of the Taurus station wagon,  but it's gone now too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 22:23
|
|
|
The cargo vans we use for work are great for loading full sheets of plywood and up to 12-14' of other material depending on what it is. Though the plywood is really only possible due to each van having custom boxes built over the rear wheels to house tools and provide a flat surface about 5 foot wide on top to lay as many sheets as you need.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2015 22:56
|
|
|
My plan is to eventually buy an old van, put a false floor in the back, and put rollers underneath the false floor with it open to the back so that sheet goods can be rolled in and out of the cavity.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 01:28
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I can go forever on my M12 and M18 batteries without recharging them when I'm using my screwdriver / drill / impact driver. The only thing I have that I've ever dumped a battery in one sitting is my M18 Sawzall, but even then I can have one charging and one on the tool and still be fine. The one time I've managed to dump in one sitting, it was 4 M12 batteries and I killed them at about a 3:1 dead:charged ratio, ie I killed four in a row and the first one was done charging when the 4th one died. However, this is because I was running an M12 Hackzall hot enough to burn myself through gloves, cutting down and dismembering a 45-foot mulberry tree and some pines in 90+ degree swelter. v  vI would consider that cruel and unusual punishment, and was surprised that it worked as well as it did. Waiting (indoors in the AC!) for batteries to charge was probably good for my health and the tool's; it was a brutal hot day.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 05:47
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:The one time I've managed to dump in one sitting, it was 4 M12 batteries and I killed them at about a 3:1 dead:charged ratio, ie I killed four in a row and the first one was done charging when the 4th one died. However, this is because I was running an M12 Hackzall hot enough to burn myself through gloves, cutting down and dismembering a 45-foot mulberry tree and some pines in 90+ degree swelter. v I've screwed down a deck on a 100+ degree day with a pair of rechargeable Craftsman batteries. Now you think "I'll buy the pair, then I will always have a battery to use while the other is charging!" Then one runs out, you swap to the other, you discover it's dead too, then you look up in the manual that the charger has a safety feature where it will not charge the batteries if the battery temperature is over 96 degrees. On a 100+ degree day. After I figured that out, we were running our batteries inside to the freezer to cool them down enough so that they would start charging.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 07:06
|
|
|
^^^this is a real thing and it sucks.. When I was doing a deck I got a cheap foam cooler and made a "charge cooler" with chargers on one side and 2 freeze packs on the other.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 13:53
|
|
|
Norther Tool is having a promo right now where you get $100 off some 18v tools if you buy $15 in accessories. It's not crazy insane black friday levels, but it works for some of the more specialized tools. I'm thinking about getting the high torque impact wrench even though I already have Bosch 18v stuff. I love that the new Milwaukee chargers do both M12 and M18.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 15:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 15:18 |
|
|
Onion Knight posted:That's good to know. I figured the hammer drill would be up to concrete, but now I guess it might be smarter for me to just rent a rotary if I need it. I doubt I'll actually have much use for one, anyway (and if that changes in the future, more tools is more good) One thing thats a bummer about the Milwaukee kit is that they include the sawzall instead of the (arguably) better hackzall. The hackzall is one of milwaukees standout tools (whereas in most other cases the brands are all identical). I bought the 18V drill/impact combo and then the hackzall with the high capacity battery included. This got me two compact batteries and one large which has served me well as I've added 2-3 more tools withought batteries.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2015 17:24
|
|
