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The HK PDB is an useless waste of space. For my upcoming drone, I'll just pull a power cable along the whole length of the bottom board and treat it as a bus, soldering the wires to it where convenient. Shrink tube be praised. Also, get 12V LEDs, you can connect them directly to a 3S battery.
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Sep 19, 2015 20:02
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 23:58 |
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So I had a lot of new experiences today! Finished my Floater Jet and had my first flight. It flew beautifully almost by itself:  Had my first crash and subsequent trespass to retrieve the plane:  Still not sure what really went wrong, beside me loving up. I was doing takeoffs, some gentle turns and pattern flying and landing to practice all of this. The last takeoff was much more difficult than those before, I gave more throttle and it went up but wasn't really controllable. I should've let it fall there but instead I tried to make it work, lost orientation and it landed nose-first on a roof of an abandoned building. The radio was still communicating even after the "landing" so no idea what caused the issue. Lost the prop and o-ring, front cover of the receiver and one aileron pushrod. One antenna is detached. There's a split in the nose and a crack in the fuselage/tail around where the motor is hanging. The nose is easily tapeable but I'm what's the best way to fix the tail? I have the original foam glue from the kit, hot glue gun and a lot of tape. Some of the damage was probably cause by first trying to get it off the roof with my patented Emergency Plane Retrieval tool:  But considering how sketchy and OSHA-worthy was the climb with ladder that is too short and roof that is too lovely (also in the dark), that was probably the right sequence. It would've worked too but the tail got caught on a lovely nail or something. So far everything looks fixable so tomorrow I might be flying again, but at this rate I'll need to order a truckload of props and other parts in advance. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 22:39
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Golluk posted:Because sometimes that infrared source might be moving, say at the speed of a person running for their lives? Bingo. I want to build something that's a 4x4 sheet of plywood with 4 lights on it. The lights would located at the corners of the board, exactly 4 feet apart. Trigonometry and a light sensor that can measure angles is all a drone should need to be able know exactly where it is relative to the landing plate. I want something I can nail to the bow of a 14' boat and go look at drone things where gps lock won't work. A Yolo Wizard posted:Oh my god dreadllama I look forward to watching this.
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Sep 20, 2015 02:58
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mobby_6kl posted:So I had a lot of new experiences today! Hah. I've had the pleasure of 3 climbs up a rickety ladder, which was thankfully not too short, up a school roof to retrieve my planes. Honestly I'd say throttling up and trying to get away from the ground was the right call. Unless a control surface was no longer attached to a servo, your better off to power it up into the air where you have more time to settle the plane out. I've found Gorilla glue to work rather well for rebuilding those planes. I've done far worse to mine if you look in my previous posts.
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Sep 20, 2015 19:21
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Ugh, I just came across videos of night flight FPV, where people have an IR-unblocked camera and a bunch of IR-LEDs on their quadcopters. Since winter time and its short days are coming up quickly... Do want! Also, a few people in various places suggested that my ABS sheet design will probably be shortlived, so I sketched a backup plan. 
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Sep 20, 2015 20:28
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I helped someone put together a quad this weekend but we had some problems, I don't really know poo poo about RC so I'm a little out of my depth. I get the rx and tx to bind no problem but when we power everything down and back up outside of bind mode it doesn't establish a connection or whatever. The weird thing is we were getting it to connect yesterday morning but it got less and less reliable as the day went on. The antenna wire coming out the back of the tx module is a little dinged up but it was like that when he got it. Its a Turnigy 9x and the stock 9x8c receiver it came with, no custom firmware or mods or anything. I suggested just sending the whole thing back and getting a replacement of both the 9x and 9x8c but anyone have any better ideas?
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Sep 20, 2015 22:31
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I had an unpleasant incident today. APM Flight Drone was sent up, hovered, put into gps lock, flown off a ways, and then it took off way up high and didn't listen to anything I said until I took it out of "gps hold" mode into "takeoff" mode. I had a hard time getting it to land after I got it listening to me. It kept lunging out in random directions until I finally got it to hover right over my head so I killed the throttle and caught it with my arm speared through the undercarriage. It hadn't flown so unstably before, but one time a prop flew off and it crashed and so it got a new case and then the gps flew it into a tree right after take-off, and that broke a prop. And now I've put carbon fiber props on that are supposed to be really light and well-balanced and not supposed to break, but now it flies away sometimes. I would rather that my dog had wings and a camera than I had a flight drone at this point. I am sorry that I'm frustrated but I don't know why this thing doesn't work as it's supposed to be rather intelligent. I used to be able to tell it to hover and put the controller on the ground, sit down, drink a cold one, walk back to where I left the controller, tell it to "land" and have full expectation that it would both stay where I left it and land where I wanted it to until recently. I made the front heavier by adding a GoPro and an fpv-transmitting camera. Also I replaced the stock props with self-tightening carbon fiber ones. Also I drove cross country about 340km over the course of the summer with the flight drone. Do I need to "re-calibrate" it? Is that a "thing" that people "do"?
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Sep 21, 2015 05:18
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How many satellites and what was the dhop before you took off?.
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Sep 21, 2015 07:47
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Pay attention and be nice to your GPS equipment guys, the failsafe totally saved my rear end yesterday. I got the drone (F450 with Naza lite) up and on the second battery got a bit too far away from me to tell the orientation. I thought I put it into GPS hold mode but it kept drifting away faster than I could approach it. So I turned the TX off and it came back and landed like a meter away from where I launched it  I suspect I might've used the wrong switch in the panic, I'll need to see if the Taranis can play a confirmation sound for each of the three modes. And I really need to get the telemetry running. I could've just landed it there in the tall grass and easily found it by its gps coords, or kept an eye on satellite lock and voltage. As it is, unless I can see the LED, there's no way to tell if it has the GPS lock when I put it into the hold position mode. Golluk posted:Hah. I've had the pleasure of 3 climbs up a rickety ladder, which was thankfully not too short, up a school roof to retrieve my planes.  You certainly weren't kidding! Though in this case the part that detached isn't really doing much structurally. The tail was about 2/3 detached but responded extremely well to the glue. You wouldn't even be able to tell it was broken there if I didn't patch it up with some tape on top.
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Sep 21, 2015 15:24
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If you're running an FPV miniquad and you aren't using Boris B's Betaflight branch, then flash that poo poo right now: (Alphaflight in my video, new filtering which is now merged into betaflight) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUPva2I-gfg
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Sep 21, 2015 18:41
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drat, that is some pretty impressive flying. I really should get around to finishing up my quad one of these days.
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Sep 21, 2015 18:55
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Does propeller pitch influence maximum flight speed? In my mind model, at certain wind speeds, props wouldn't be able to shovel enough air anymore, if the pitch is too low, limiting the maximum speed.
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Sep 21, 2015 19:29
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Combat Pretzel posted:Does propeller pitch influence maximum flight speed? In my mind model, at certain wind speeds, props wouldn't be able to shovel enough air anymore, if the pitch is too low, limiting the maximum speed. yes
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Sep 21, 2015 19:31
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But high pitch needs more torque, which means more current draw, right? So I'd be trading off slow flight and hover time for maximum speed?
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Sep 21, 2015 19:39
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Combat Pretzel posted:But high pitch needs more torque, which means more current draw, right? So I'd be trading off slow flight and hover time for maximum speed? Yes, you'll lose some hover time. But may gain cruise and high speed time...
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Sep 21, 2015 20:16
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Arrest that rear end! posted:If you're running an FPV miniquad and you aren't using Boris B's Betaflight branch, then flash that poo poo right now: How is it different? Your flying is good (a lot better than mine, anyway) but I can't tell from the vid what betaflight is doing for you. My quad actually seems to fly a bit smoother than yours with the stock PIDs in cleanflight. I understand that it filters the sensor input, but is it really needed in all cases? e: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0bsXfrSOF0 (i'm really new, takes me a bit to get warmed up and confident in the turnarounds) CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Sep 21, 2015 |
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Sep 21, 2015 20:18
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Golluk posted:drat, that is some pretty impressive flying. I really should get around to finishing up my quad one of these days. I ordered some parts off eBay from China so I've pretty much guaranteed I'm not going to finish anything new before the snow hits  Bad life choices.
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Sep 21, 2015 20:42
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Martytoof posted:I ordered some parts off eBay from China so I've pretty much guaranteed I'm not going to finish anything new before the snow hits come fly helicopters with me this weekend
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Sep 21, 2015 20:59
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the nicker posted:How is it different? Your flying is good (a lot better than mine, anyway) but I can't tell from the vid what betaflight is doing for you. My quad actually seems to fly a bit smoother than yours with the stock PIDs in cleanflight. I understand that it filters the sensor input, but is it really needed in all cases? It's a lot easier to control and much more precise, so I can fly agressively like that with extreme confidence, which in turn increases the performance even more. The reason my quad is a little off in that video is becasuse I don't usually run a recording cam on it (it's a 296g AUW 180 quad), and adding a 50g Mobius to it affects it quite a lot; also some of the lack of smoothness is due to the fact I'm flying close proximity at high speed, and you have to adjust your attitude with great speed, frequency, and amount. The filtered sensor input and syncing of the control loop to the gyros will be a good thing for anyone on any quad; it makes it much easier to control, and therefore more fun.
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Sep 21, 2015 21:21
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Speaking of fun. In light of every decreasing daytime, I made my first night FPV flight. And boy is it fun when a tree comes into view in front of you 30' away at 30km/h. First landing I wasn't exactly level on touch down, so it spun around on the wing tip. Still gentle enough not to do any harm. Second landing was as good as any of my day time landings, after adjusting my landing light a bit. http://imgur.com/a/hSXnf/all View of my approach from the Mobius, and what I'm seeing. There is a small drop just infront of the light at the bottom of the green line (my desired landing strip), and the red things are the two trees to either side of the light. Got down to 50M altitude 400m out. Lined up my flashlight and the lights of the school, then cut throttle back and aimed for my flashlight at about 200m out. cut throttle and leveled out at 5m after passing the flashlight, and came down for a smooth landing.
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Sep 22, 2015 02:29
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I bought one of these to throw on my spare body: http://www.readytoflyquads.com/rtf-mini-4-in-1-22-amp-35x50-blheli Just wanted to see how a 4 in 1 would fit/look/perform as opposed to the regular ESCs I have. I know it's a bitch if I blow an ESC I'll have to replace the entire board, but at $40 I'm willing to experiment a little. Really excited to see how this works when I get it in. 32MB OF ESRAM posted:come fly helicopters with me this weekend Hmm, where are you flying? I'm probably going to Montreal this weekend but HELICOPTERS --
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Sep 22, 2015 03:16
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Martytoof posted:I bought one of these to throw on my spare body: Just a warning but that guy's notorious for taking others' designs and farming it out to taobao for cloning. You get what you pay for.
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Sep 22, 2015 04:06
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CrazyLittle posted:Just a warning but that guy's notorious for taking others' designs and farming it out to taobao for cloning. You get what you pay for. Also customer service is worse than any Chinese site. He's cheap, ships quickly, but don't expect to get any refunds or RMA's.
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Sep 22, 2015 04:27
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Oh, crap. Is this common knowledge that I just missed out on? Honestly if I'd have known he's just a dude who cheaps out others' designs I wouldn't have given him a dime. Well I guess it won't be bad for a test run, but what's a legit 4-in-1 that I could look at? I know they're not the preferred route but I'm interested in experimenting.
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Sep 22, 2015 05:04
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Martytoof posted:Oh, crap. Is this common knowledge that I just missed out on? Honestly if I'd have known he's just a dude who cheaps out others' designs I wouldn't have given him a dime. The thing, his stuff is decent value for money. I still buy MinimOSD's from him, simply because it's hard to get them quicker and cheaper elsewhere...but I also buy them knowing that if one of them is DOA, then I'm unlikely to get a refund, etc. I won't, however, ever buy a flight controller from him again. (or anything similarly expensive).
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Sep 22, 2015 05:09
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Fair enough; I like to vote with my dollars so if poo poo goes tits up day one then I likely won't buy from him again but it looks like there are plenty of other 4 in 1s that I can try if it comes down to it, based on a quick google search. I'm not sure the one he sells is amazing since it doesn't look like it comes with any heat dissipation so I'll likely have to make sure I can cool the ESC properly whereas others tend to come with metal sinks. Oh well, like I said it'll be a good experiment. edit:  I bought the 4in1 based on a Reddit post and when I check back:
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 22, 2015 05:19
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Speaking of ESCs... Meanwhile I've received my Hobbyking parts for my new drone. I've ordered 30a ESCs from DYS, but as Opto version (i.e. no BEC). Cute little things, if there's no unnecessary electronics on board. About as big as these lovely 12a AfroESCs on my 250.
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Sep 22, 2015 17:13
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His escs are especially bad. its funny he think that people are going to try his bearhug v2 after his originals were such crap
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Sep 22, 2015 17:49
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Combat Pretzel posted:Speaking of ESCs... Meanwhile I've received my Hobbyking parts for my new drone. I've ordered 30a ESCs from DYS, but as Opto version (i.e. no BEC). Cute little things, if there's no unnecessary electronics on board. About as big as these lovely 12a AfroESCs on my 250. Unfortunately the DYS 30a are some of the worst performing mini quad escs on the market.
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Sep 22, 2015 19:31
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A Yolo Wizard posted:such crap Arrest that rear end! posted:worst performing Can anyone expand/explain what makes good/bad ESC? Are they prone to failure, not good for their rated current? Or what?
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Sep 22, 2015 20:24
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peepsalot posted:Can anyone expand/explain what makes good/bad ESC? Are they prone to failure, not good for their rated current? Or what? The performance can vary greatly between ESC's, there's a lot more to them than just an amp rating. Better ones will also run cooler and be less failure prone. Check out the charts on this page (the RG20 is a great ESC btw). Notice some provide more thrust while drawing less amps. http://rotorgeeks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=307
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Sep 22, 2015 21:31
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rMg6hr8kos This one shows a significant drop in performance going from a 20A to a 30A ESC!.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:21
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I've got a 4' x 4' sheet of plywood and plans to drill holes in it at the middle of the edges as follows: And at each hole, install an IR bulb:  They're at a fixed, known distance apart, at a fixed, known angle relative to one another. An optical flow sensor such as this one to be able to track said lights in realtime and locate itself to a high degree of precision relative to them: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Optical-Flow-Sensor-APM2-5-improve-position-hold-accuracy-Multicopter-ADNS-3080-/310702206281?hash=item48574b6d49 As long as a sensor is able to track more than one target, and knows the bearing of said targets relative to itself, it is a simple cosine (I think) function to determine ones exact position relative to the landing plate. Pocket calculators can do that function as many times per second as my 9th grade self could mash the equals sign. I coded html for about a week in college and also I did some BASIC in elementary school on the C64. I do not know whether the following is a stupid question, but I will ask anyways: Is it theoretically possible to use an optical flow sensor to track IR sources for precise position-keeping up to 30m away?
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Sep 23, 2015 03:03
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DreadLlama posted:I've got a 4' x 4' sheet of plywood and plans to drill holes in it at the middle of the edges as follows: Considering that the Oculus Rift and other Headtracking equipment do something quite similar for positional movement with only a webcam or ir camera, I wouldn't think it would be impossible to do what you are asking. However you may want to ask in a more techy/code forum then just the RC forum. :/
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Sep 23, 2015 03:53
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Arrest that rear end! posted:Unfortunately the DYS 30a are some of the worst performing mini quad escs on the market. --edit: Just going through a RCGroups thread about DYS. For gently caress's sake. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 05:37
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THat's too bad about Readytoflyquads, I really like their mini 4-in-1 esc and have never seen anybody else selling one like this. http://www.readytoflyquads.com/rtf-mini-4-in-1-12-amp-35x35-hv-blheli They always have capacitors or are larger than a 35x35 footprint. Where did he copy this one from? I wouldn't mind a more reliable version, or maybe one without a mini JST plug. Fuckin love using these things.
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Sep 23, 2015 06:24
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Combat Pretzel posted:Ah crap, it was reviewed mostly well over at Hobbyking (FWIW anyway). Figures. That said, it'll drive 980kv motors. They're still pretty popular and you probably will be fine on those motors. I'm using them in a game of drones quad if there is a better cheapo ESC I haven't been informed yet. The only other chinese brands I've heard of note lately were the littlebee and the ztw spider moron izzard fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 12:09
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I flew and only froze my fingers a little bit  
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Sep 23, 2015 16:59
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Needlessy complicated cabling ITT... So yeah, that's the 3D printed stuff. I chose to print the frame plates in 2mm to save weight and money, however the plates turned out more flexible that I'd have liked. Earlier today, I put the bottom and middle plates together for a test, using the tube clamps only (but none aluminium posts, which there'll be two on each side eventually) and the thing became instantly way more rigid. So I'm hopeful. I doubt it'll survive much crashes, tho.
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Sep 23, 2015 19:17
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rMg6hr8kos The most important thing in an ESC is properly driven fets with fast switching speeds, that's why ESCs like KISS with gate drivers and fast highside loading etc perform much better than ones like the DYS ones which are made from cheap components; the amperage rating of the ESC has little affect on how it will perform.
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Sep 23, 2015 21:21
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