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This is the problem:  In a crash, half the clamp broke off completely. Think I'll just got a Carbon Fiber QAV250 instead. Maybe pick up a versacopter down the line once they've ironed out the bugs. Slash fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 16:04
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That looks like acrylic, not derlin... If they're shipping those things with acrylic, they should be drawn and quartered.
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Oct 7, 2015 18:26
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Thats delrin according to their build video
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Oct 7, 2015 19:27
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Thats delrin according to their build video I trust FliteTest's technical accuracy like I trust the word of a used car salesman. I need to do some more digging. Im' pretty sure I have some around here.. but iirc, delrin deforms and tears, it doesn't shatter/crack like that. EDIT: I just did some digging. Delrin is used for bumpers of R/C cars. It bends, it deforms, but it does not crack. Methinks you got sold $2 acrylic when you thought you were getting $15 delrin. EDIT Number 2: And I did some digging. Personally I'd chose nylon as the sheet material, with how soft and grippy it is. and it's ability to be bent and come back to it's original shape. Whatever plastic they're using there, is totally inappropriate. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 20:17
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How stable are filament 3D printed parts for drone usage, especially when used with low infill for weight optimizations? Paging 32MB ESRAM!
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Oct 7, 2015 20:35
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Combat Pretzel posted:How stable are filament 3D printed parts for drone usage, especially when used with low infill for weight optimizations? Paging 32MB ESRAM! Depends on what for.
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Oct 7, 2015 20:54
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Most parts of the frame, like perpendicular tube clamps, plates and such. I have a bunch of powder lasered nylon plates for my first design, and while the drone curiously didn't disintegrate yet after a plummeting from 6-7 meters altitude, the stuff's however generally more like Pringles chips (some protruding unsupported parts already broke off looking funny at them).
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Oct 7, 2015 21:13
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Combat Pretzel posted:Most parts of the frame, like perpendicular tube clamps, plates and such. I have a bunch of powder lasered nylon plates for my first design, and while the drone curiously didn't disintegrate yet after a plummeting from 6-7 meters altitude, the stuff's however generally more like Pringles chips (some protruding unsupported parts already broke off looking funny at them). Probably not. First, I think you'll struggle getting the tolerances required, but there's a reason why more race quads are using (fairly thick) carbon fibre plates. I've printed mounts for camera and other accessories, but those are not critical for flight performance.
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Oct 7, 2015 21:24
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Combat Pretzel posted:How stable are filament 3D printed parts for drone usage, especially when used with low infill for weight optimizations? Paging 32MB ESRAM! Fine for testing, screwing around, and making blog posts, but if you're an FPV racer 3D printed parts will keep you grounded more than anything. My adventures in 3D printing entire frames is probably a waste of time in the end, but I enjoy designing things. I'm experimenting with 7mm thick PLA arms with a 15% rectilinear infill at 45 degrees right now, positioning my parts on the bed so there is an "X" pattern up the length of the arms. Everything SEEMS very rigid, there is almost zero flex, and I would compare it with 3mm carbon fiber (in FLEX, not strength). It's great for flying and hovering steady, but in a crash the stiffness doesn't really mean anything and it will shatter if hit too hard. CF won't do that, it will stay in one piece, maybe fray a bit at the point of impact. One of the biggest problems I have is that I like to print entire frames as one piece, basically using up my entire print bed. Works fine, and is super light, but a crash takes out your entire craft if you break an arm. So now I am dealing with the extra weight that m3 bolts add, and making the frame and arms separate pieces. Something like the white bits here are the perfect thing to use 3D printed parts for:  I had a weird PDB and a standard FC and I used a bracket to connect both boards together. This is protected in a crash and otherwise will not wear down or anything. Little adapters and mounts should probably be the intended purpose of 3D printed parts on quads, but I am like a super badass, breaking all the rules, just rebelling against, like, the system, you know? *pats self on back* One thing I have noticed is that whenever I break a frame the cracks always form at 'weak points' where I put mounting holes through or something. A big flat plane hardly ever breaks clean in two. If you want a stable workhorse little quad do what Nerobro did and bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 21:31
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Not looking for a racing drone. At the beginning, the idea for one was nice, but there isn't any interesting geography or abandoned spots to dick around to even remotely attempt CharpuFPV kind of stuff. I'm just looking to experiment around the 400 class, have something that can go fast and just negotiate wider gaps than what you'd plow a 250 through. As long a printed drone doesn't explode into a thousand pieces on simpler crashes on grass... The designing part is also very interesting to me, but the getting actual results part is currently lacking a lot (or very expensive when printing externally). However I'm currently not sure if there's a red herring I'm not seeing in regards to getting a 3D printer. Do you have any experience with CFR filled ABS filament? Is that worth anything or just a waste of time? --edit: This is my current ongoing design iteration. Everything in white is the sort of stuff I'd like to print, ideally in better than Shapeways' Pringles quality. Note that there's quite a bit of cross-strutting in the design to absorb forces, tho. 
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 22:00
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Combat Pretzel posted:Not looking for a racing drone. At the beginning, the idea for one was nice, but there isn't any interesting geography or abandoned spots to dick around to even remotely attempt CharpuFPV kind of stuff. I'm just looking to experiment around the 400 class, have something that can go fast and just negotiate wider gaps than what you'd plow a 250 through. As long a printed drone doesn't explode into a thousand pieces on simpler crashes on grass... Eeep, for a 400 class I'd definitely go for a carbon plate or carbon rod type frame. You'd have to go really really thick with the parts to get arms that long with no flex. Maybe you could design a slotted arm so you have more vertical walls which would add strength, but also create a failure point down the length of your arm. As for exotic filaments I wouldn't know. I just use PLA. I've never even printed with ABS, I hear it is less shatter resistant but has poorer layer adhesion which comes into play when you twist and flex the parts. You don't want your layers to slowly come unstuck from eachother mid flight because of vibrations. There is a company called Taluman that makes crazy/expensive nylon and I think carbon fiber filament, but I have no idea how that could work. Is it a thin solid string all through the filament, or is it tiny little hairs throughout? Unsure. Taluman stuff is a bit pricey and I imagine I'd waste a lot of my first roll just experimenting with temperatures and print speeds, so I haven't tried any yet. EDIT: Okay, you are doing the carbon arm thing and printing the brackets to connect them. Much more viable than what I was picturing. That definitely looks possible but maybe consider getting the main body plate cut from carbon, or sourced from a similar frame. like these: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65839__Quanum_XJ470_CF_Folding_Sports_Quadcopter_Frame_w_Forward_Facing_Gimbal_Mount.html http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__51425__HobbyKing_174_Alien_560_Folding_Quad_Copter_Carbon_Fiber_Version_Kit_.html EDIT2: Yeesh, a lot of complaints in the comments section, maybe avoid these too, as they're a bit pricey to cannibalize for parts bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 22:23
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Combat Pretzel posted:I'm just looking to experiment around the 400 class, *snip*. As long a printed drone doesn't explode into a thousand pieces on simpler crashes on grass... The smaller the quad, the more likely 3d printing is sane. quote:The designing part is also very interesting to me, but the getting actual results part is currently lacking a lot (or very expensive when printing externally). However I'm currently not sure if there's a red herring I'm not seeing in regards to getting a 3D printer. Do you have any experience with CFR filled ABS filament? Is that worth anything or just a waste of time? Carbon infused filament still has the PLA layer bond as it's ultimate strength. It's also got some issues printing due to nozzle wear.
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Oct 7, 2015 22:28
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Welp I got all my stupid chinese eBay parts in, now I have no excuse for not having a fully working 250 in the next week or so.
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Oct 7, 2015 22:36
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:Eeep, for a 400 class I'd definitely go for a carbon plate or carbon rod type frame. This is the piece of crap that I mentioned survived a fall from 6-7 meters. Only thing that happened was a crack from one screw hole of a tube clamp to the velcro hole of the battery attachment strip. That's why I'm hopeful for home printed stuff, since these nylon plates in the picture are rather brittle.  32MB OF ESRAM posted:EDIT: Okay, you are doing the carbon arm thing and printing the brackets to connect them. Much more viable than what I was picturing. That definitely looks possible but maybe consider getting the main body plate cut from carbon, or sourced from a similar frame. like these: Nerobro posted:Carbon infused filament still has the PLA layer bond as it's ultimate strength. It's also got some issues printing due to nozzle wear. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 22:36
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If you want to design high quality drones: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2459197#post32882543
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Oct 8, 2015 00:13
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Nerobro posted:I trust FliteTest's technical accuracy like I trust the word of a used car salesman. I need to do some more digging. Im' pretty sure I have some around here.. but iirc, delrin deforms and tears, it doesn't shatter/crack like that. You can definitely crack delrin. It's less likely to crack than other plastics but if you cut it thin enough it'll snap just like anything else.
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Oct 8, 2015 05:13
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https://www.faa.gov/news/press_releases/news_story.cfm?newsId=19555quote:The FAA proposes a $1.9 million civil penalty against SkyPan International, Inc. of Chicago. Between March 21, 2012, and Dec. 15, 2014, SkyPan conducted 65 unauthorized operations in some of our most congested airspace and heavily populated cities, violating airspace regulations and various operating rules, the FAA alleges. These operations were illegal and not without risk. Well this is certainly worth watching.
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Oct 8, 2015 05:26
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Sounds like they might not have gotten exemptions from the FAA and flew around in places they shouldn't have been without some form of approval, so now the FAA are going for the throat as an example.. Fun. On my own 250 racer note, got the Eachine Racer 250 in, comes well packaged but man not a single piece of usable manual in site, so once i got my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus in, I am now on complete noob learning mode. Think I got it all wired up from channel 1-7 and now just figuring out how to get the OpenPilot software to see the Flight Mode switch (that I apparently have to program in the remote itself first). Once I get past that, we will see if this thing even starts up or not. Definitely have to give DJI some credit, their stuff just works. Having all the options to tweak everything is nice at times, but man is it a pain if you want to just get up and fly something. I suppose after some time and experience it will all make sense and become second nature, but I am still lost on like 50% of the acronyms for all the sorts of Rx/Tx's, and port types and such these controllers offer. Is there a good resource for the RC community acronym guide so I can get up to speed a bit faster?
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Oct 8, 2015 19:45
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Elendil004 posted:https://www.faa.gov/news/press_releases/news_story.cfm?newsId=19555 Flying around in Class B airspace is no loving joke. It was stupid of them to do that so many times.
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Oct 8, 2015 20:06
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EdEddnEddy posted:Sounds like they might not have gotten exemptions from the FAA and flew around in places they shouldn't have been without some form of approval, so now the FAA are going for the throat as an example.. I watched these two video series to get an idea for how the Taranis and Naze32 worked: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpYO7HkjxGQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OKGMhTrqOU
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Oct 8, 2015 20:39
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So... I"m building something:
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Oct 9, 2015 07:26
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140mm
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Oct 9, 2015 10:18
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What kind of props can you run on 140?
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Oct 9, 2015 12:55
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I'm gonna say probably 3"
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Oct 9, 2015 14:37
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Headplays just shipped  About time considering I ordered them in July
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Oct 9, 2015 17:21
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Wojcigitty posted:About time considering I ordered them in July God drat, and I thought mine took a while. That reminds me I've got some Headplays for sale if anyone is interested. SA mart thread coming up later today.
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Oct 9, 2015 17:26
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What's the difference between a Fatshark Dominator v3 and a Teleporter v3? Oh the website has a thing: 
bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Oct 9, 2015 |
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Oct 9, 2015 17:31
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the nicker posted:God drat, and I thought mine took a while. Anybody who is looking for FPV goggles check these out. I tried a friends and they blew away my dominators. I'm curious why you are selling them?
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Oct 9, 2015 17:50
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refleks posted:I watched these two video series to get an idea for how the Taranis and Naze32 worked: Yep I have been watching a ton of tutorials and such. Finally got everything setup except the Lights switch. The CC3D has 6 channels coming out from it, but the extra lights cable comes out of a separate port on the CC3D and connects to channel 7, however nothing I do appears to get them to switch on or off so I am a bit puzzled there. Also I still need to figure out how to setup a FailSafe for the Taranis before I take it out for its initial flight. The basic setup and tuning appears to have worked ok, will tinker with flight modes to see what the heck each one feels like. Also the Motors seem to have a good bit of power range unlike some who talk about them online having trouble getting power to even take off. This thing without props felt like only about 10% throttle would be needed to get it off the ground. On the CC3D flight modes part, would it be possible to have a flight mode for manual throttle like default, and one that would work like the DJI Phantoms where throttle is hover at mid, and ascend/descend is up or down from there? I understand how to get the spring center for the Taranis, but not quite sure if it would be Altitude Hold, Cruise Control, or some other setting under flight mode. So much to learn, and I really don't care to crash and burn on my first flight out, almost burnt up my FPV Tx by forgetting to put on the antenna, but luckily it still works and appears to put out a pretty darn clean picture, however it does not work with my BlackPearl on auto Rx mode where it switches between the best antenna. It continues to roll the image as if it is off 1/2 a channel or something even when it isn't. Switching to one or the other antenna allows it to work and look perfect. Weird.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:27
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the nicker, I am looking to get my first FPV headset in about a week, consider me very interested.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:32
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:What's the difference between a Fatshark Dominator v3 and a Teleporter v3? Is the HD one actually HD? What camera are you supposed to use for that? Wonder what the delay is too.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:33
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EdEddnEddy posted:Also I still need to figure out how to setup a FailSafe for the Taranis before I take it out for its initial flight. EdEddnEddy posted:On the CC3D flight modes part, would it be possible to have a flight mode for manual throttle like default, and one that would work like the DJI Phantoms where throttle is hover at mid, and ascend/descend is up or down from there? I understand how to get the spring center for the Taranis, but not quite sure if it would be Altitude Hold, Cruise Control, or some other setting under flight mode. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Oct 9, 2015 |
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Oct 9, 2015 19:02
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Failsafe needs to be throttle off, otherwise its an uncontrolled blender on the ground.
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Oct 9, 2015 19:19
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I have read a lot that Failsafe is throttle off, but I can't find where to set that. Is that done on the CC3D, or on the Tx itself, and if So, Where?
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Oct 9, 2015 19:39
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Wojcigitty posted:I'm curious why you are selling them? I like to travel light (and usually by bicycle or scooter) and the headplays make that very difficult due to the size. That's the only reason. They work great and are comfortable otherwise. Takkaryx posted:the nicker, I am looking to get my first FPV headset in about a week, consider me very interested. I'll PM you
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Oct 9, 2015 21:06
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EdEddnEddy posted:I have read a lot that Failsafe is throttle off, but I can't find where to set that. Is that done on the CC3D, or on the Tx itself, and if So, Where? Can't speak for the CC3D but the radio failsafe depends on your equipment. What do you have? Most common method is to press a button on your receiver which will set the current values as the failsafe values.
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Oct 10, 2015 00:06
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failsafe with on frsky x receivers is very different than with d receivers. x failsafes can be fully configured in the transmitter
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Oct 10, 2015 01:09
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I think I configured my X8R just by pushing the button on the receiver after setting the desired values on my Taranis, though other ways might be possible as well. I set mine to return to base and it saved my rear end already. the nicker posted:God drat, and I thought mine took a while. How are these better than the cheap-rear end foam goggles from HK? I see the resolution is higher, but that's not a big deal with the limited analog input anyway.
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Oct 11, 2015 12:00
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mobby_6kl posted:I think I configured my X8R just by pushing the button on the receiver after setting the desired values on my Taranis, though other ways might be possible as well. integrated receiver, a larger screen, and high res is useful if you're using an hd video link (like lightbridge)
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Oct 11, 2015 17:36
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Blehh I've been working on putting my second quad together and I'm trying to make it all pretty by wrapping all the loose cable in braided tubing with heatshrink on the ends, but man it's turning out to be entirely pointless. The cables look better but the braided tubing is so inflexible that it looks dumb. Tight turns are near impossible; It's hard to cleanly wrap the ends so there's no cable showing. I'm going to finish this job with the braid but I think next one I'm just going to do with exposed wire. You guys who put your ESCs under the main body as opposed to the arms, how do you end up mounting them? I've got 20A ESCs with the giant gently caress-off caps on them and I know that's part of the problem, but generally things are really tight down there on a 250 anyway. I'm using the MyRCMart H250CF body which I guess is a budget clone of the ZMR250 or QAV250 or whatever.
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Oct 11, 2015 17:52
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