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Braiding looks nice but is a loving pain in the rear end to work into the build. In the end, I just put it on the small part of the battery leads that run under the frame. Besides that, is it possible that an ESC might only be slightly damaged or unfunctional, in a way that it responds well to PWM input and runs the motors well enough, but can't deliver enough current? While in attitude mode, my drone stays level, as soon as I switch to rate, it immediately wants to topple over (--edit: diagonally). Doesn't seem the motor, the bearing feels fine, and the solder job isn't bad enough to create high resistance. I want to redo the power wiring eventually, as soon I have more silicone wires, to put plugs everywhere that I can switch ESCs easily. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Oct 11, 2015 |
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Oct 11, 2015 18:00
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So we've been cabling inside a building with 50 foot ceilings. We've been using lifts to go up and zip tie stuff up there but I've been toying with the idea of using a mechanical arm on a drone to attach the zip ties. Anyone have any experience with actuated arms on a drone I've been trying to google and not getting anything solid so far.
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Oct 11, 2015 19:16
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Martytoof posted:Blehh I've been working on putting my second quad together and I'm trying to make it all pretty by wrapping all the loose cable in braided tubing with heatshrink on the ends, but man it's turning out to be entirely pointless. The cables look better but the braided tubing is so inflexible that it looks dumb. Tight turns are near impossible; It's hard to cleanly wrap the ends so there's no cable showing. I'm going to finish this job with the braid but I think next one I'm just going to do with exposed wire. Use paracord rather than that stiff plastic braiding: 
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Oct 11, 2015 20:48
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That's actually really cool. What size paracord should I be looking for? I don't really know where to get it so I presume I'd just be able to get some on eBay?
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Oct 11, 2015 21:22
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socialsecurity posted:So we've been cabling inside a building with 50 foot ceilings. We've been using lifts to go up and zip tie stuff up there but I've been toying with the idea of using a mechanical arm on a drone to attach the zip ties. Anyone have any experience with actuated arms on a drone I've been trying to google and not getting anything solid so far. Definitely not impossible but might be quite tricky depending on what exactly you need to do there... attaching something with zip ties sounds like it might be quite difficult to pull off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fe9IDx3vCs
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Oct 11, 2015 21:23
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socialsecurity posted:So we've been cabling inside a building with 50 foot ceilings. We've been using lifts to go up and zip tie stuff up there but I've been toying with the idea of using a mechanical arm on a drone to attach the zip ties. Anyone have any experience with actuated arms on a drone I've been trying to google and not getting anything solid so far. You could probably make a drone big enough to lift the arm, with the arm being it's own RC system with a 2nd person controlling it, but zipties require quite a bit of dexterity to wrap around a pole AND precisely slip the end through the locking dealy. You'd also have to be really precise about the drone flying which might mean hiring a guy specifically to pilot the thing, negating any cost/time savings. EDIT: More fun with the Morphite 155, I thought about making motor mount extensions for a while but finally got around to it today:   Also had to modify my flip32 board to make it work with my Spektrum sat the way I wanted. It has a port for the satellite but apparently it doesn't actually work on boards that are pre rev.7, and I had a rev.6. You can pull 3.3v and ground from the port but signal still needs to go to RX channel 4. So I cut the trace from the sat. signal and rigged up channel 4 to go to the sat. signal port:   Works perfectly now, nice and minimal. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 11, 2015 21:39
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That's really cool. How'd you learn you could modify the board like that?
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Oct 12, 2015 05:35
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Ever just stare at a pile of parts and get an idea? A friend came over today, we tried flying quads... but it was 20mph+ gusting winds. ... we both took off, and decided continuing to fly was a bad idea. Nothing got broken, no harm, no foul... right? I had a big styrofoam airplane hanging around my kitchen. My friend stared asking if I had the parts to make it r/c. ... Well I had an old orangeRX non diversity receiver. A bunch of 9 gram servos. A spare 1804 DYS motor. Some light ply. A bunch of balsa.... Well, short of servo horns, and linkages, I have an airplane sitting on top of my fridge. What I learned.. when you make tape hinges, make sure you use normal/light weight tape, not heavy duty packing tape. 7x4.5x3 props are NOT suitable for 1804's. 6x4.5x3 props, are only slightly better. 6x3 props are right at the upper edge of what an 1804 can handle at zero airspeed. I've never felt a motor hotter than after running the 7x4.5x3 prop on it... Pictures will follow next week. It's nothing to be proud of. In fact... it's pretty embarassing. But what the heck? It's $60 in electronics on $20 of airframe. DreadLlama posted:That's really cool. How'd you learn you could modify the board like that? The board had the right plug. But the signal had to go somewhere else. So he cut the original signal wire, and routed it where it needed to go. It's really about looking at the schematics and erratas. I did something similar on one of my Naze32's. I installed a plug wrong, and pushed a ton of current down the 5v rail.. and burnt it off. So I found a new good 5v rail on the board, and ran it to the receiver socket. :-) Speaking of fixing stuff you broke... My NanoQX spent the day in my hot car after which the FPV camera had a big fuzzy area in it. Like... unable to fly amount of fuzzy. The same aforementioned friend is a bit of a camera nerd, and we started poking at the lens assembly. My first thought was that CCD was dirty. After he pulled the lens assembly off, we found the CCD to be just as clean as could be. However, you could see something that looked "wet" behind the IR filter on the back of the lens assembly. So I broke the IR filter pane off the back of the lens, and cleaned out the goo. It looks like the glue used to hold the IR filter pane melted and got in the way of the light path. And now I have a night vision enabled nano qx. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 06:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:as soon as I switch to rate, it immediately wants to topple over make sure your trims are centered on your radio
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Oct 12, 2015 16:30
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Martytoof posted:That's actually really cool. What size paracord should I be looking for? I don't really know where to get it so I presume I'd just be able to get some on eBay? Yup, just normal paracord from eBay or outdoor supplies/milsurp places and then take the inner cord out and replace it with your wires.
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Oct 12, 2015 18:23
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the nicker posted:make sure your trims are centered on your radio
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Oct 12, 2015 18:42
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After dinking around, turns out the Failsafe for the Taranis was configurable from the OpenTX Companion software. Se it to No Pulse and tried that. Works correctly as from a stable hover, powering off the remote and about 1-2sec later the drone cuts engines. Perfect Now if I can just adjust the camera to be better at not making everything else on the screen black when a bright sky/sun come into partial view.
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Oct 12, 2015 21:00
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Which camera do you have? It sounds like the Dynamic Range is set too high? Here's a blog post on how to tune the Sony 600TVL most people use.http://blog.oscarliang.net/sony-super-ccd-camera-fpv-pz0420/ After much research I've put together a parts list that I'm going to purchase to assemble my first quad. With the parts to extend it to FPV in the future. Does anyone care to critique the following build list? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RUFXzHLPRtamIzVJm425SCthm8Ym2P7VEtxr6Hc-ZME/edit?usp=sharing I'll try and find a different supplier than HobbyKing International warehouse where possible to try and minimise the chance of getting stung on import duty. Slash fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 14:18
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http://www.banggood.com/Cheerson-CX20-Opensource-Version-AutoPathfinder-Quadcopter-RTF-p-932145.html?utmid=87 It's a DJI Phantom clone for $250. Not that I suggest everyone buys it, but it's pretty amazing how cheap this stuff can get, considering I just paid more than that just for the TX/RX.
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Oct 13, 2015 18:21
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mobby_6kl posted:http://www.banggood.com/Cheerson-CX20-Opensource-Version-AutoPathfinder-Quadcopter-RTF-p-932145.html?utmid=87 This raised a bit of an eyebrow:  Is there any scenario where you'd want the compass up in the GPS dome?
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Oct 13, 2015 18:48
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moving the compass away from magnetic interference is always preferable. most apm / pixhawk systems I see use a compass / gps on one board
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Oct 13, 2015 19:04
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Slash posted:Which camera do you have? It sounds like the Dynamic Range is set too high? It looks very similar to the Sony but It is Eachine's own brand whatever camera. The problem is it looks like I need that OSD board to adjust it's setting and I don't have one... Sooo I will have to look around and see if there is another way to tune it a bit. The image quality on the camera is really good when it isn't getting blown out so I'd like to be able to just tune it to perfection.
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Oct 13, 2015 19:23
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Slash posted:Which camera do you have? It sounds like the Dynamic Range is set too high? Maybe consider getting a frame that isn't unibody. You will crash and break something, the most common one being the arms, and if you break one arm on a unibody you have to replace the whole thing. I say this as a man that just build his first quadcopter out of a unibody 250. I'm not doing heavy flying or crash-prone FPV, just LOS right now, but it's something I assume will give me headaches down the line.
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Oct 13, 2015 22:57
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refleks posted:Maybe consider getting a frame that isn't unibody. You will crash and break something, the most common one being the arms, and if you break one arm on a unibody you have to replace the whole thing. The frame I linked isn't unibody? The arms are 4mm carbon fibre and separately bolted on.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:42
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welp, just took the Morphite out for it's first swim. 2 inch puddle turned out to be 5+. All my lights were still on and I pulled the power quick but pretty much every component had some water on it. Hopefully my 5 minute electrical tape wrap saved the ESCs. I'll find out in a few hours. Also hairdryers pull a lot of juice, tripped a breaker already leaving it on for a few minutes.
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Oct 14, 2015 00:17
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Slash posted:The frame I linked isn't unibody? The arms are 4mm carbon fibre and separately bolted on. Arh sorry, don't know why I got that idea.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:25
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Anyone have a suggestion for a tote bag for a radio? I'm looking for something to carry my taranis in. Preferably some sort of padded tote bag with a shoulder strap. Not a huge hard case, just something big enough for the radio and maybe an extra pocket or two.
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Oct 14, 2015 17:06
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the nicker posted:Anyone have a suggestion for a tote bag for a radio? I'm looking for something to carry my taranis in. Preferably some sort of padded tote bag with a shoulder strap. Not a huge hard case, just something big enough for the radio and maybe an extra pocket or two. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23302__Turnigy_Transmitter_Bag_Carrying_Case.html Cheap, works, keeps my Taranis from bending/breaking any more switches. But it's pretty junky build quality so the velcro straps inside immediately pulled free from their glue.
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Oct 14, 2015 19:59
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CrazyLittle posted:http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23302__Turnigy_Transmitter_Bag_Carrying_Case.html Yeah this looks like the same generic bag I keep seeing on amazon. Can it hold much else? Would be nice if my fat shark case would fit in there too, now that I think about it.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:14
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If you put the fat sharks in there, where will the antenna go?
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Oct 15, 2015 04:49
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Slash posted:After much research I've put together a parts list that I'm going to purchase to assemble my first quad. With the parts to extend it to FPV in the future. Would really like to someone to take a look over this part list before i order, just to make sure i haven't made any stupid and potentially expensive mistakes.
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Oct 15, 2015 09:25
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Slash posted:Would really like to someone to take a look over this part list before i order, just to make sure i haven't made any stupid and potentially expensive mistakes. Even though you are a beginner I would go for some motors and props with a little more power. You can always pull the throttle back and it really makes the aircraft fly better. Look for some 2204's with 5x4 props.
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Oct 15, 2015 11:51
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Wojcigitty posted:Even though you are a beginner I would go for some motors and props with a little more power. You can always pull the throttle back and it really makes the aircraft fly better. Yep that was something i wasn't sure of. I was concerned that going up to 2204 / 5x4 will negatively impact battery life though? And/or require 4s batteries to perform well.
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Oct 15, 2015 14:22
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Slash posted:Yep that was something i wasn't sure of. I was concerned that going up to 2204 / 5x4 will negatively impact battery life though? And/or require 4s batteries to perform well. Battery life probably won't be quite as good but not by a huge margin. Get plenty of packs as they are cheap enough anyway. It will definitely not require 4S, but should you decide to try 4S in the future, it will support it.
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Oct 15, 2015 15:22
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Fun day at HHAEFI today. During the noon combat round a foam plane got stuck on a tricopter, which then flew all over the site to show its new hood ornament.
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Oct 17, 2015 01:47
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Welp: http://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/u-s-will-require-drones-be-registered-n446266
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Oct 17, 2015 02:39
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I'm curious to see how registering a drone will play out. I mean what is the intent, to register a serial number on a drone? I'm not sure how they plan to match that up with what they actually see flying in the air. Unless they make transponders a requirement or something. Like it's super easy to say you have to register your drone, but the logistics of actually using that information to figure out who is flying in restricted space doesn't seem to be very practical. Short of actually having some way of disabling and capturing the "rogue" drone and tracking it back to its registrered owner.
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Oct 17, 2015 06:17
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Got my headplays up on SA-Mart if anyone is interested.
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Oct 17, 2015 18:49
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Martytoof posted:I'm curious to see how registering a drone will play out. I mean what is the intent, to register a serial number on a drone? I'm not sure how they plan to match that up with what they actually see flying in the air. Unless they make transponders a requirement or something. Yeah I don't get this. What is a drone? I get that I would have to register a Phantom, but what about a 250 racer? If a 250, how about a 180? NanoQX? Hubsan? On second thought, just register Phantoms, they seem to cause the most trouble.
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Oct 17, 2015 20:53
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Martytoof posted:I'm curious to see how registering a drone will play out. I mean what is the intent, to register a serial number on a drone? I'm not sure how they plan to match that up with what they actually see flying in the air. Unless they make transponders a requirement or something. It's so cute that you think regulation will be coherent and have a clear, achievable goal. I've got my money on "knee jerk registration so that we look like we're doing something about the drone menace."
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Oct 17, 2015 22:03
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Wojcigitty posted:What is a drone? I get that I would have to register a Phantom, but what about a 250 racer? If a 250, how about a 180? NanoQX? Hubsan? I'm sure that with a good lawyer and a small fortune you can find out.
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Oct 17, 2015 23:12
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Get ready for some paperwork gents. What a load of poo poo.
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Oct 19, 2015 18:22
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Best comment on todays debacle press conference:quote:Confusing, contradictory, ignorant and lacking in significant detail... a few words to describe the DoT/FAA's announcement of pending UAS registration requirements. I particularly 'enjoyed' FAA Admin Huerta's faulty recitation of some aspects of the FARs, as well as the fact that no one seemed to be able to answer the question as to how this rule will actually augment safety and the ID of errant operators. The UAV community is not against good regs... they've been asking for them for some time... but this, willy-nilly, 'we're going to do something to make ourselves look good' type of rule-mongering only proves that the powers-that-be don't have a clue as to what to do yet. Kinda reminds me of the scene in Blazing Saddles where an elected official played by Mel Brooks intones, "Gentlemen, we've got to save our phony-baloney jobs" -- indeed. Huerta is a complete loving idiot, who clearly hasn't read page 1 of the regulations of the administration he oversees. I still want to see a mass civil disobedience of everyone buying hubsan drones, crashing them, stopping what they're doing, calling the NTSB to report an aircraft crash and just completely swamping the system with bullshit. I'd say call 911, but tying up ACTUAL first responders is a dick move.
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Oct 19, 2015 18:44
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohkIMnImhE8 recording of the announcement. They still have no clue about what they really want to do, I guess we'll see how it comes together.
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Oct 19, 2015 18:45
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Elendil004 posted:I still want to see a mass civil disobedience of everyone buying hubsan drones, crashing them, stopping what they're doing, calling the NTSB to report an aircraft crash and just completely swamping the system with bullshit. I'd say call 911, but tying up ACTUAL first responders is a dick move. That's actually a pretty funny idea since you wouldn't actually be endangering anybody by doing this, right? All systems that actually prevent any danger are done over radio and not their phone lines?
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Oct 19, 2015 18:53
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