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Mr. Mambold posted:You should rent a floor sander for sanding floors, doing it with a R/O is kinda insane. (I've done that too, though) I've had a Porter-Cable 5" with velcro pad forever, replaced the disc twice now. Need to replace the cord. Sander keeps on trucking. I'm not sanding whole rooms with the thing. I use it for edges / under radiators etc... Doing a whole room with a 5" sander sounds like some weird form of torture.
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Sep 28, 2015 02:33
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My Makita 5" random orbit has been great and I'd definitely recommend it. My monster Bosch 1250DEVS 6" has been even better, but it's expensive and absolutely ridiculous. Owns like hell, though.
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Sep 28, 2015 03:41
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Recommendations for locking pliers? I've heard Irwin Vice Grips went to poo poo, but Snap On or Grip On are good quality. I'm generally just using them to assemble furniture or work on bicycles. Also, I've heard mixed opinions, but are there specific lines I should be gravitating toward for minor hand tools (pliers, hammers, ratchets, etc)? The people I work with (mechanical engineers) have hardons for Snap On, but I'm wondering if that's just because it's a popular name with them or if there's something they do that outshines everyone else. I'm in Electrical so I have little experience with things that aren't voltmeters, soldering irons, and oscilloscopes. I live in an apartment so I just have a small bag with a handful of tools that I use for mounting / assembling things or fixing bicycles (no power tools), but I like to maintain some ideas of what brands I should look out for if I find myself needing something. PRADA SLUT fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 05:07
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Wera and wiha for screwdriver type stuff, knipex for pliers type things are my small hand tool hard on brands. I feel like snap on is only worth it if you're an actual mechanic.
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Oct 1, 2015 05:43
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I've been upgrading my pliers to Channellock when they have what I want, for the price I don't know there is anything better. Klein is supposed to be good too although I don't own any. From what I understand the government buys a lot of Klein tools. Crescent used to make good wrenches but they moved to China and I'm skeptical of the quality. I own a lot of Craftsman stuff. I think the big deal with Snap-On and Mac is that the trucks come around and it becomes this thing everyone 'must' have plus they can swap broken tools right off the truck. As the saying goes, you covet what you see and if all your buddies are buying Mac or Snap-On, that's what you'll want. And they are good quality tools too. I'm just a home gamer so none of that fancy stuff for me. edit; typo wormil fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 05:59
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wormil posted:I've been upgrading my pliers to Channellock when they have what I want, This Ace / True Value will occasionally send out a 50% off one item (under $30) coupon. Every time i get one I use in on a pair of Channellocks. I think last time i picked up a set of 16" tongue and grove pliers... so sweet.
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Oct 1, 2015 16:38
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I bought the harbor freight 3/8" impacting earthquake ratchet. Do I need to use impact sockets with it since it only does 70 ft lbs?
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Oct 4, 2015 01:53
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Yes, normal sockets like to explode with impact wrenches. They're cheap, but getting metal removed from your eyeball isn't
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Oct 4, 2015 04:17
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It's not just the metal, it's the chrome coating that fragments under repeated impacts. Take a regular chrome socket you have a duplicate of and beat it with a hammer for a while. The chrome wil flake off, sometimes in a good imitation of shrapnel. The idea behind impact sockets is to avoid the FOD and injury risk associated with the more brittle materials used in chromed sockets, they will go plastic and deform instead of shatter. But given this is an impact ratchet, you can probably get away with it. Maybe.
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Oct 4, 2015 05:02
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lwoodio posted:I bought the harbor freight 3/8" impacting earthquake ratchet. Do I need to use impact sockets with it since it only does 70 ft lbs? if you are just using an impact tool with them every once and a while, not really as long as you wear adequate protection and are OK with the chance of messing up a socket. If you make a habit of it, the HF impact sockets are not expensive. PRADA SLUT posted:Recommendations for locking pliers? 
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Oct 5, 2015 20:56
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Hypnolobster posted:My Makita 5" random orbit has been great and I'd definitely recommend it. My monster Bosch 1250DEVS 6" has been even better, but it's expensive and absolutely ridiculous. Owns like hell, though. I looked around a bunch and settled on a Bosch. about 30 minutes into sanding the stupid clutch thing jammed up and turned the RO into a disc sander. I returned that and bought the Makita. SUCH a difference! It's much more powerful than the Bosch, or even my old Craftsman and the dust collection is top notch. Thanks 
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Oct 5, 2015 21:00
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Dirty Beluga posted:I looked around a bunch and settled on a Bosch. about 30 minutes into sanding the stupid clutch thing jammed up and turned the RO into a disc sander. I returned that and bought the Makita. SUCH a difference! It's much more powerful than the Bosch, or even my old Craftsman and the dust collection is top notch. Thanks Late to the party, but I have the Makita Variable Speed 5" RO, and I love it. The variable speed is great because it makes it way more flexible as a tool and lets me use it between finish coats without worrying too much about loving something up.
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Oct 5, 2015 23:36
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Dirty Beluga posted:The last pair of Vice-Grip brand pliers i bought were on par with what is at HF right now. I stick up for HF in a lot of cases but nothing makes me more angry than their lovely vise grips.
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Oct 5, 2015 23:37
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Dirty Beluga posted:I looked around a bunch and settled on a Bosch. about 30 minutes into sanding the stupid clutch thing jammed up and turned the RO into a disc sander. I returned that and bought the Makita. SUCH a difference! It's much more powerful than the Bosch, or even my old Craftsman and the dust collection is top notch. Thanks I'll probably get one if my Porter Cable ever dies. They didn't have dust collection vents or bags on them back when I got it 
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Oct 5, 2015 23:48
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A China Fright flyer came in the mail and I've got the itch. . . The $22 7 piece ratcheting wrench set looks very tempting, however I'm guessing the quality suck. I could get $22 Crescent X6 ratcheting wrenches, but I just don't think their whole X6 feature looks like a good idea. It's just a bunch of small splines that grab the fastener, allowing it to grab "6 different bolt heads", and I'm not sure I want a ratcheting bit on the open end section, I thought those kinds of designs were typically weak or hard to work with? I think I know the correct answer is a 20pc set of Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches for $50 is the right answer, but I don't want to spend that much right now and I don't think I really need ratcheting metric wrenches. I'm also not sure if the additional 3 wrenches - 1/4", 11/32", and 11/116" would be sizes that I would really use that often. I'm also interested in the $25 infrared thermometer gun primarily for my own entertainment, or is it a piece of crap? Who am I kidding, the HF flyer made me think the temp gun was a good deal since it required a coupon to get it for $25, but I can get one for $13 from Amazon, at that price I don't care if it is a piece of crap or not. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 11, 2015 |
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Oct 11, 2015 16:15
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Crotch Fruit posted:I'm also interested in the $25 infrared thermometer gun primarily for my own entertainment, or is it a piece of crap? Who am I kidding, the HF flyer made me think the temp gun was a good deal since it required a coupon to get it for $25, but I can get one for $13 from Amazon, at that price I don't care if it is a piece of crap or not. I've had one of the $13 thermometer guns for a while now, and it works. Not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it's close enough. Boiling water shows 212F/100C, so there's that. I'm not exactly using it for anything that requires super accurate readings anyhow.
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Oct 12, 2015 13:20
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Crotch Fruit posted:A China Fright flyer came in the mail and I've got the itch. . .
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Oct 12, 2015 14:30
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I haven't found any flare wrenches that were any good, all the way up to and including Snap-On. I just always use the Stanley vice-wrench for that poo poo now.
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Oct 12, 2015 17:28
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Splizwarf posted:I haven't found any flare wrenches that were any good, all the way up to and including Snap-On. I just always use the Stanley vice-wrench for that poo poo now. I've gotten to the point that I break flare nuts free with a vise-grip and then use a standard wrench to finish them off. Even my Snap-On rounds the darn things if they are slightly rusty/old/ect.
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Oct 13, 2015 00:08
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKv2CNCgcAs Here's a reminder from This Old House on why you should wear all the safety gear when using a chainsaw. Real neat demonstration on how the chainsaw chaps work.
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Oct 13, 2015 16:54
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canyoneer posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKv2CNCgcAs You have to buy a new pair of chaps and a new pair of underwear afterwards. 
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Oct 13, 2015 17:20
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Crotch Fruit posted:You have to buy a new pair of chaps and a new pair of underwear afterwards. Whereas with out them, you can just buy a new leg! And if you get one that's adamantium or some poo poo you'll never need the chaps again! It's a pretty obvious upgrade, really.
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Oct 13, 2015 17:22
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don't worry, legs grow back
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Oct 13, 2015 17:54
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The limiting factor in how close up against the wall I can place my miter saw is the dust collection port. I'd like a right angle connector so I don't need a bunch of space for the hose to turn. Does anyone know of one for a 35mm dust port? The closest I've found is this, but still not ideal.
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Oct 16, 2015 02:06
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Zhentar posted:The limiting factor in how close up against the wall I can place my miter saw is the dust collection port. I'd like a right angle connector so I don't need a bunch of space for the hose to turn. Does anyone know of one for a 35mm dust port? The closest I've found is this, but still not ideal. If I may suggest, consider something like this instead: http://www.amazon.com/Fernco-PQL-15...+Pipe+connector I had much better luck getting it to fit with my various assortment of hoses because the rubber stretches a little, and the hose clamps let you get it nice and secure.
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Oct 16, 2015 16:17
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Hubis posted:If I may suggest, consider something like this instead: http://www.amazon.com/Fernco-PQL-15...+Pipe+connector I used the exact same thing on mine. Plumbing fititngs usually work well for dust collection.
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Oct 16, 2015 16:31
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Zhentar posted:The limiting factor in how close up against the wall I can place my miter saw is the dust collection port. I'd like a right angle connector so I don't need a bunch of space for the hose to turn. Does anyone know of one for a 35mm dust port? The closest I've found is this, but still not ideal. A well designed hood also carries away a lot of the dust that would normally remain underneath the saw. Generally speaking the dust collection on mitre saws sucks, except not in the way you want it to.
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Oct 16, 2015 16:34
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Hubis posted:If I may suggest, consider something like this instead: http://www.amazon.com/Fernco-PQL-15...+Pipe+connector Thanks, it worked well enough. Would've fit much better if they made them 1/4" smaller, but oh well.
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Oct 17, 2015 06:02
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I have this compressor and brad nailer kit. I mainly got it for the compressor, but turns out the lil' nailgun's pretty handy, except it came with ridiculously long (presumably 2", though I haven't measured them myself) nails. This is a minor problem, given that most of the things I'm inclined to use it instead of a screw for are nailing together things between half-inch and 1" nominal thickness, so at best the nails stick out the back and have to be clipped off/bent over flat, at worst I nail the work to the workbench. Will it work with shorter ones? If so, how do I identify which ones I need? Also, how strong are those "nails"/bits of wire? Could I zap, like, five of the long ones through a 1x into a 2x4 and expect it to hold as much weight as a framing nail or two? In other news, now I want a proper air nailer, the lil' guy is so fun to use.
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Oct 17, 2015 21:55
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Looks like it should take anything up to 2" in length. I'm pretty sure brads are mostly meant to hold light things on - only place I've used my nailer so far is replacing some floor molding. It is quite satisfying shooting a nail home with just a pull off the trigger and a quick pop of compressed air, though.
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Oct 17, 2015 22:03
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IOwnCalculus posted:Looks like it should take anything up to 2" in length. I'm pretty sure brads are mostly meant to hold light things on - only place I've used my nailer so far is replacing some floor molding. You'd be surprised how much grabbage those 18g. brads will provide. Most fasteners are epoxy coated and the friction of the brad going in melts that stuff, then it instantly cools. Assuming the guy has an 18 gauge brad nailer, they'll take just about any brand of pin down to something like 5/8 or 1/2". They are exceedingly handy in uses where a fatter gauge nail will split the wood.
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Oct 17, 2015 23:37
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Just a heads up, my local costco had the dewalt tough system cart and 3 toolbox combo down to 199 today, which is about 20 dollars more than just the cart by itself most places, and 100 less than they were selling the combo for earlier this summer. No comment as of yet on the drawer unit or the cart, but I already use and really like the extra large and small boxes that it also comes with. Might be worth looking into if you need some organization.
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Oct 19, 2015 17:40
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Came across one of Ryobi's hidden gems for $40 on Craigslist yesterday, couldn't pass it up. A couple handles are missing and it has some surface rust on the table but a killer deal none the less. Variable speed with digital tach, laser cross-hair, ummmhmmm. Can finally justify getting rid of the Delta DP250. Ryobi DP121L 
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Oct 20, 2015 18:08
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Sointenly posted:Came across one of Ryobi's hidden gems for $40 on Craigslist yesterday, couldn't pass it up. A couple handles are missing and it has some surface rust on the table but a killer deal none the less. Variable speed with digital tach, laser cross-hair, ummmhmmm. Can finally justify getting rid of the Delta DP250. This is my first drill press and it binded up and generally worked like poo poo and I was angry for not buying a higher end one just 2 days ago. Then realized you have to tighten the belt gear things for them to grip properly and it works just fine.
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Oct 20, 2015 19:54
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bobua posted:This is my first drill press and it binded up and generally worked like poo poo and I was angry for not buying a higher end one just 2 days ago. Good to know, i've had other variable speed small drill presses and have not been overly impressed with any of them. But, the Ryobi had really good reviews so I thought i'd give er a go.
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Oct 21, 2015 17:01
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At risk of channeling AvE  , I think it's always a good idea to do at least a partial breakdown on new equipment and tools to be able to define what things operate which functions so that down the line when things go pear shaped, you already know what to look for rather than figuring it out while frustrated.
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Oct 21, 2015 17:41
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Recommendations for a benchtop jointer? Will definitely be buying used, and god willing inexpensively.
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Oct 21, 2015 23:58
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Sointenly posted:Recommendations for a benchtop jointer? Will definitely be buying used, and god willing inexpensively. I turned my router table into an ad-hoc jointer by shimming part of the split fence. It works okay; worth considering as an option.
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Oct 22, 2015 00:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I turned my router table into an ad-hoc jointer by shimming part of the split fence. It works okay; worth considering as an option. Interesting idea, why just "okay" on the results?
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Oct 22, 2015 16:05
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Sointenly posted:Interesting idea, why just "okay" on the results? Well, it's not a full-fledged jointer, and I can only joint boards that are at most as tall as my tallest straight bit, which isn't very tall (pretty much just limited to 3/4"-thick boards). And the fences aren't as long as what you'd find on a real jointer, so it's easy to accidentally wobble a bit and ruin your edge. But a jigged router table, plus a thickness planer, can definitely turn rough 4/4 boards into S2S1E boards, and the tools take up a lot less space (and probably cost less) than a jointer would.
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Oct 22, 2015 16:35
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