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The Oregon cordless chainsaw is pretty drat good. Even has a built in sharpener.
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# ? Nov 24, 2015 04:21 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 14:04 |
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I wanted to get a 25' tape measure and ended up getting a 26'/8m Stanley LeverLock because some inane part of me thinks I might need metric someday.
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# ? Nov 24, 2015 23:47 |
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I went metric this year. Too many cool instructables out of Europe nowadays.
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# ? Nov 25, 2015 04:48 |
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Josh Lyman posted:I wanted to get a 25' tape measure and ended up getting a 26'/8m Stanley LeverLock because some inane part of me thinks I might need metric someday. Day later edit to avoid double posting: I'm looking for a new circular saw to replace my 80s vintage Milwaukee that has seen better days. Is the extra torque and control of a worm drive saw worth the extra weight and price increase? I've always used a sidewinder, but the layout and additional power of a worm drive seems pretty appealing. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Nov 25, 2015 |
# ? Nov 25, 2015 04:53 |
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stealie72 posted:I got a metric tape because a lot of picture frames, shelves, etc seem to be measured in metric and I got sick of having to figure out measurements like 12 and 13/16th inches between the screws for things that hang with a keyhole. So far things seem to be about 1/3 metric, 1/3 imperial, and 1/3 completely lacking in any logical measurement. Unless you use it every day to make a living, I'd vote against the worm-drive. The extra weight is a bad thing, plus do they even have electric brakes ityool 2015? I got a Makita hypoid saw in 1988, it's still kicking, has electric reverse-winding brake; no chain or worm gears. Go try one for a while and see, you may just have to have it.
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# ? Nov 25, 2015 19:58 |
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I'll throw in a recommendation for a Makita track saw; without the track, it's a pretty capable circular saw (with excellent dust collection), and the track is a nice upgrade over DIY straight edges.
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# ? Nov 25, 2015 21:03 |
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Zhentar posted:I'll throw in a recommendation for a Makita track saw; without the track, it's a pretty capable circular saw (with excellent dust collection), and the track is a nice upgrade over DIY straight edges. I love mine. I tried the DeWalt and Festool. I couldn't justify the Festool and the DeWalt was clunky. I would wait and see if Home Depot does their tool clearance, I got mine for $350 with a second track.
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# ? Nov 26, 2015 19:18 |
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Zhentar posted:I'll throw in a recommendation for a Makita track saw; without the track, it's a pretty capable circular saw (with excellent dust collection), and the track is a nice upgrade over DIY straight edges. It might just be that Bosch makes the aluminium track really expensive and replacement rubber edge really hard to get. Or that the plastic track can't have the edge replaced at all. But I very much prefer to make my own track out of birch ply. Of course I don't have a band saw or table saw, so I swap blades quite a bit. And the resaw, panel, and laminate panel blades have quite a bit of difference in the kerf width.
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# ? Nov 26, 2015 20:19 |
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You can get replacement splinter guards for the Makita track for not too much, though it is going to be a pain of you're swapping all the time.
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# ? Nov 27, 2015 00:29 |
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Speaking of Makita tools, I'm looking for a portable LED flood light, and I came across this guy, which looks like it just came out a few months ago.. I'm sorely tempted, but the hundred dollar price tag is a bit off-putting, especially since it doesn't charge battery packs or even come with a stand. Are there any better portable LED lighting alternatives you guys might recommend before I pull the trigger?
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# ? Nov 27, 2015 07:24 |
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I've bought a bunch of these (not this seller) http://m.ebay.com/itm/10W-Portable-Light-LED-Cordless-Rechargeable-LED-Flood-Spot-Camping-Hiking-Lamp-/231759905694?nav=SEARCH For work a few months back. An honest 4-6 hours of good light and a poo poo load cheaper. Cheap enough to be disposable if abused but none have broken yet.
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# ? Nov 27, 2015 09:19 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:. Are there any better portable LED lighting alternatives you guys might recommend before I pull the trigger? Lowes has one today for $15. Costco sells a SnapOn that people rave about. Edit, sorry, I somehow missed "portable". wormil fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Nov 28, 2015 |
# ? Nov 27, 2015 17:25 |
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wormil posted:Lowes has one today for $15. Costco sells a SnapOn that people rave about. The only SnapOn (which at Costco is in name only) LED I've seen there is a plugin light. It's also pretty awesome.
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# ? Nov 27, 2015 19:16 |
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wormil posted:Lowes has one today for $15. Costco sells a SnapOn that people rave about. You don't happen to have a link handy, do you? I can't seem to find it? However, I did find they have the Jawhorse on sale for a hundred bucks today... Been wanting one of those for awhile now... I've seen the snapon one before, but I'd prefer a cordless one. Stuff like cutting the power to work on my breaker box or finishing painting my garage roof after dark woulda been a lot easier with a portable battery powered flood light. Edit: And Amazon is matching with free prime shipping on the jawhorse! Sold! Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Nov 27, 2015 |
# ? Nov 27, 2015 20:09 |
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You folks gave me a good week of reading material, thanks! Next question: Which of the 3 should I purchase next: Scrollsaw, JigSaw, or Band saw. (Are 2 of those the same thing?) I have miter saw, table saw, various hand implements, belt/disc combo sander, drill press. I definitely feel a limitation in being able to cut around rounded edges, the short term goal will be jigs mainly, but I'll evolve over time to furniture and higher end storage, maybe cabinets one day. I'd rather spend now and get some quality in my experience then buy any more wen products and know my tolerances will be super-loose. Bonus question: A friend has challenged me to cut circles for custom speaker enclosures he's building. Based on a 40 min glance I'm thinking a router pivot jig would be best, but maybe one of you knows better....
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 03:36 |
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RTFM posted:Next question: Which of the 3 should I purchase next: Scrollsaw, JigSaw, or Band saw. (Are 2 of those the same thing?) Scrollsaws are kind of like bandsaws, except much smaller, and they use a rigid blade that moves up and down instead of a flexible metal band that goes over two wheels. Scrollsaws are for fine detail work. My personal bias would be to get a bandsaw, but that's mostly because my workhorse saw is a bandsaw instead of the more traditional table saw. You can do some neat things with bandsaws though, including yes, cutting curves -- but also resawing boards, cutting through thick stock, making bandsaw boxes... Their only big limitation is that they can't cut in the middle of boards, e.g. my saw can cut at most 13" off the end of a board. But you have other options for crosscuts so that's probably not a big issue.
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 03:45 |
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Has anyone ever made a reel-to-reel bandsaw? You'd have to swap reels or rewind it at the end but you could do counted teeth to signal end of reel to stop it before it whipped off. A pretty situational tool, but you could probably do some seriously bullshit cuts with it.
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 04:09 |
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Splizwarf posted:Has anyone ever made a reel-to-reel bandsaw? You'd have to swap reels or rewind it at the end but you could do counted teeth to signal end of reel to stop it before it whipped off. Just make it auto reverse at the end like a cassette player.
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 04:23 |
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Thought of that but aren't symmetrical teeth pretty rare? On the other hand, I guess you could alternate half of 'em the other way like a good handsaw.
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 08:13 |
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Is there a tool for installing dress nuts like the one below without scratching up the chrome? The diameter at the base is about 1/2".
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 08:18 |
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Splizwarf posted:Thought of that but aren't symmetrical teeth pretty rare? On the other hand, I guess you could alternate half of 'em the other way like a good handsaw. Reverse teeth on the other side
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 16:29 |
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SkunkDuster posted:Is there a tool for installing dress nuts like the one below without scratching up the chrome? The diameter at the base is about 1/2". Only thing that comes to mind are soft jaw channel locks, which you can imitate by wrapping the jaws of a pair with duct tape so you can squeeze without marring the surface. Of course, something like that should probably only be handtight anyways I would assume, so it can be removed later. A pair of leather gloves, rubber kitchen gloves, or some latex coated (6$ at HF) should give you all the grip you need. E:What's it for? Is the bolt tightened from the other side perhaps? Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Nov 28, 2015 |
# ? Nov 28, 2015 21:58 |
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It is for a panel mounted push button switch. It needs to be tight because it is used in a wet environment and there is a rubber faced washer on the backside of the panel that is compressed by tightening the dress nut. I've tried wrapping a few layers of electrical tape around the jaws of a pliers but it didn't take long for the ridges on the jaws to work their way through the tape. The equipment gets filthy as hell in normal use and I've never had a customer complain about scratches when I replace the switch and dress nut, but I figure if I am going to install a new part, it shouldn't have scratches on it.
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 22:17 |
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If you are worried about it coming loose, you could try a small dab of the lowest grade loc-tite you can find. Or go hog wild with the good stuff for a really permanent connection. . . Just curious, by wet environment are we talking a boat, offshore equipment or something less interesting?
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 22:52 |
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RTFM posted:You folks gave me a good week of reading material, thanks! Jigsaws, scrollsaws and bandsaws can all do similar things, but scrollsaws are generally much finer detail, bandsaws are bigger, and jigsaws are handheld and supported at only one end. THe bandsaw is probably the more essential tool, but the jigsaw is the cheapest option. For the bonus question, yeah, some sort of circle jig for the router, jigsaw, or bandsaw. Bonus: as long as you're using something which cuts the same way from any angle like a router, a circle jig could be as simple as a piece of string the right length, tied to a nail and tied to the router. Make sure you tie a loop and hook it over the nail to avoid cutting a spiral.
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 23:09 |
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Crotch Fruit posted:If you are worried about it coming loose, you could try a small dab of the lowest grade loc-tite you can find. Or go hog wild with the good stuff for a really permanent connection. . . It is just equipment that is sometimes used outdoors in the rain and snow. Think of it as something non-interesting like a skid loader or a forklift.
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# ? Nov 28, 2015 23:22 |
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RTFM posted:You folks gave me a good week of reading material, thanks! I made a trammel/extended router base out of plexiglass and just drill holes as far from center as I need for a radius. I used it for doing 10" speaker holes.
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# ? Nov 29, 2015 00:19 |
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RTFM posted:Bonus question: A friend has challenged me to cut circles for custom speaker enclosures he's building. Based on a 40 min glance I'm thinking a router pivot jig would be best, but maybe one of you knows better.... I've been happy with this router jig
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# ? Nov 29, 2015 00:44 |
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SkunkDuster posted:It is for a panel mounted push button switch. It needs to be tight because it is used in a wet environment and there is a rubber faced washer on the backside of the panel that is compressed by tightening the dress nut. I've tried wrapping a few layers of electrical tape around the jaws of a pliers but it didn't take long for the ridges on the jaws to work their way through the tape. The equipment gets filthy as hell in normal use and I've never had a customer complain about scratches when I replace the switch and dress nut, but I figure if I am going to install a new part, it shouldn't have scratches on it. Electrical tape is balls for this application, so is duct tape. You need leather to cover plier jaws for force like that. If you don't have anything appropriate on hand, a deerskin glove from the hardware store should work fine (and should still be wearable afterwards). You want the grain (smooth) side out.
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# ? Nov 29, 2015 04:04 |
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SkunkDuster posted:It is for a panel mounted push button switch. It needs to be tight because it is used in a wet environment and there is a rubber faced washer on the backside of the panel that is compressed by tightening the dress nut. I've tried wrapping a few layers of electrical tape around the jaws of a pliers but it didn't take long for the ridges on the jaws to work their way through the tape. The equipment gets filthy as hell in normal use and I've never had a customer complain about scratches when I replace the switch and dress nut, but I figure if I am going to install a new part, it shouldn't have scratches on it. Great! Knowing that much I'm doubling down on the coated gloves recommendation, and seconding a dab of blue locktite on the threads underneath to lock it in place. I lied earlier when I said those gloves we're 6$ at harbor freight--they're only two! I've only used the Uline version, but it's the same principle. I don't imagine you'll find a better tool here than the human hand.
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# ? Nov 29, 2015 07:01 |
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Black Friday deals? I bought a 6 piece Ryobi kit for $200: Drill, Impact, Sawzall, Oscillating Multi-tool, Circular and two of the high-end (grey) compact lithiums. Pretty solid deal actually. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-ONE-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Ultimate-Combo-Kit-6-Tool-P884/203466936 Too bad I only plan on keeping the batteries and charger (I have everything else in milwaukee). I've had serious problems with my ryobi batteries and now have 6 dead ones...it must be my charger so I set out to buy a new charger/battery combo. At some point I'm going to walk in with the 6 dead batteries and see if I can at least get 2 or 4 replacements.
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# ? Nov 29, 2015 16:07 |
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I was recently gifted a brand new ryobi circular saw and planer sans battery. I just returned the battery I bought and plan on selling the two tools to augment my existing Milwaukee stuff. The planer seemed cool, but I found the saw lacking for my needs.
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# ? Nov 29, 2015 17:51 |
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Yes I can confirm the old Ryobi charger was overheating my batteries like it wouldn't automatically shut off. I got two lithium batteries with charger and my old batteries are back in rotation using the new charger. I've left them in for a week without getting hot.
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# ? Nov 29, 2015 18:09 |
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So, is the general thought that the Fein multi tool is the best of the lot, but the Dremel is still pretty good?
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# ? Nov 30, 2015 20:53 |
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Dukket posted:So, is the general thought that the Fein multi tool is the best of the lot, but the Dremel is still pretty good? For an oscillating multi tool, I picked up Makita's 18v variable speed multi tool earlier this year for some trim work on my windows, and absolutely couldn't be happier. This thing is a beast, and the quick release on the head is a godsend over my old corded craftsman one. Changing heads literally takes seconds (used to be minutes), plus the tool itself is way more powerful than my corded one ever was. I've even used this thing to cut through cast iron pipe without any struggles. Only thing I don't like is the lack of a light, they removed it for the quick change head. If you're already invested in a cordless line, I'd recommend checking their multi tool out. I'm sure the Milwaukee version is just as good. e: If I were running a commercial shop, I'd probably buy Fein tools, but I can't think of any justification to spend that kinda money as Joe Blow homeowner when there are so many quality alternatives available. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Nov 30, 2015 |
# ? Nov 30, 2015 21:19 |
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I was recently gifted a brand new ryobi circular saw and planer sans battery. I just returned the battery I bought and plan on selling the two tools to augment my existing Milwaukee stuff. The planer seemed cool, but I found the saw lacking for my needs. Cordless circular saws have a certain limitation in power, depth of cut; and advantages such as lightweight and way more portable. Are you saying the Milwaukee is way more powerful?
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# ? Nov 30, 2015 23:04 |
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Too early to say. I bought the 18v 3500 rpm Milwaukee saw. Made one cut so far, but the ryobi I had was struggling with 1x4s on a full battery. To be fair it is probably 5+ years old, just been in storage till I ended up with it.
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# ? Dec 1, 2015 01:58 |
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Dukket posted:So, is the general thought that the Fein multi tool is the best of the lot, but the Dremel is still pretty good? The market is pretty saturated with good takes on the multi-tool and its a simple tool. It's hard to imagine what you're getting for the extra money.
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# ? Dec 1, 2015 02:41 |
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I've been quite happy with my Bosch; super long cord and a fair bit less vibration then the competition I've tried. On par with what some co-workers have been using (Dewalt and Makita). Far better than my old Dremel. I've actually never used a Fein, as they were outside my price range when they held the patent. Unless it's significantly cheaper than the other 3 brands, I'd say go with the cheapest option. *Make sure you get the MX3xx version of the Bosch, with the tooless blade change.
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# ? Dec 1, 2015 04:36 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 14:04 |
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Reggie Died posted:I've been quite happy with my Bosch; super long cord and a fair bit less vibration then the competition I've tried. I don't have any cordless so I'm not invested in any of the systems yet so that isn't a factor. I'm having trouble finding recent comparisons, but what I'm seeing suggests that the Fein has the lowest vibration, most accurate cuts and the hardiest motor (greatest longevity), BUT if you aren't using it every day it may not worth the extra cash. I don't think its the right purchase for me atm anyway. I got a caught up in some tool isle excitement. Thanks for the responses.
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# ? Dec 1, 2015 13:56 |