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King Hotpants posted:There are lots of non-jointer ways to joint stock: A lot of guys use a planer for a cleaner edge jointing- I don't get how a table saw can be used as a jointer.
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Dec 2, 2015 02:31
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It cuts in a straight flat path, just use the sled as a reference surface. Once you joint one edge on the jointer, take it to the table saw and cut with the jointed edge against the fence to joint the opposite edge parallel. The fence rides on the jointed reference surface and the blade cuts parallel. If you skip the jointer, you can use a sled instead to get a straight cut without a reference surface.
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Dec 2, 2015 02:45
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bimmian posted:How is it deflecting, what direction / orientation relative to blade? I'd expect some issues with your hardwood stack simply because of the difference in hardness between them (which I think could be prevented just by going really slowly), but obviously not with a single type of wood. Are you using double-sided tape or anything to hold the pieces together? It turns out describing the deflection is super hard. I need to do more experiments with the speed of cutting, but life's been a bit busy lately. The pieces are held together with painter's tape, so they shouldn't be moving much with respect to each other; certainly not to the degree that I'm seeing here. I don't know how helpful it is, but here's a photo of the top and bottom 2x6s I cut in my test, showing how they don't fit together. Top piece is on the left.  (Click for full size)
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Dec 2, 2015 03:51
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MickRaider posted:Can anyone recommend a good starting jointer and/or planer? Something used, cast iron and preferrably a combo machine.
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Dec 2, 2015 05:13
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Steve Ramsay has a good video explaining how you can edge joint with a jig on the table saw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrYjc3G1vgo This is what I do. I bought a cheap Mastercraft jointer and the thing is garbage. Since I don't have the floor space or money for a real jointer yet I've done this route.
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Dec 2, 2015 16:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can also kind of replace a jointer with a router table jig: use a straight bit, then offset the outfeed fence so it matches the amount of material removed by the bit. It's not as good as an actual jointer (particularly if you want to joint material that's thicker than the length of your straight bit) but it does work, and you should prioritize a router table above either jointer or planer anyway. I use an 8' length of 2' melamine coveredshelf board as a straight edge and these bits to edge lumber.  Clamp your board on top of the melamine shelving, have a mm hang over, then run the router so the bearing is going along the end of the shelving. This results in a perfectly straight edge, and I find it wastes 2-3 times less than a jointer, and at lest 5-10 times less than a table saw (assuming you don't have a 10 fence on it).  Pretty much this setup, but swap the purpose made board with built in clamps for a section of shelving and 3 C-clamps.
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Dec 2, 2015 17:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It turns out describing the deflection is super hard. I need to do more experiments with the speed of cutting, but life's been a bit busy lately. The pieces are held together with painter's tape, so they shouldn't be moving much with respect to each other; certainly not to the degree that I'm seeing here. Based on the pinching on the sides, it may be uneven internal stress relief. Same reason you'd get bowing or whatever when resawing.
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Dec 2, 2015 17:30
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bimmian posted:Based on the pinching on the sides, it may be uneven internal stress relief. Same reason you'd get bowing or whatever when resawing. That seems unlikely, though. I mean, I've done exactly this kind of project in the past, except with two boards instead of three, and it worked just fine. Well, really I need to get that replacement blade installed and do another test. It's probably just down to using a dull blade.
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Dec 2, 2015 17:43
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Steve Ramsay has a good video explaining how you can edge joint with a jig on the table saw. That's a lot of work when he could just tack the straightedge onto the piece needing to be straightened. It still doesn't get rid of blade marks. Blistex posted:I use an 8' length of 2' melamine coveredshelf board as a straight edge and these bits to edge lumber. This is the correct answer, lacking a jointer.
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Dec 2, 2015 17:44
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Small end grain cutting board, I find I use a smaller board more often than a big one like the one in the background:
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Dec 3, 2015 19:58
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With tung, 24 hours is generally fine between coats, depends a bit on the wood and ambient humidity. A good rule of thumb is when you use abrasive between coats you should be producing white dust. I just finished instructing the year's final evening of a "Learn to Whittle" course, and a parent gave me a huge haul of Mirka sandpaper. Now I can justify buying an Abranet system. Life is hard 
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Dec 3, 2015 20:50
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His Divine Shadow posted:Small end grain cutting board, I find I use a smaller board more often than a big one like the one in the background: I love that dark wood, what is it?
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Dec 3, 2015 22:01
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It's just plain walnut. I assume european walnut, not sure if it's different from american? I really like it though, I am thinking of making a french roll pin from it as well, and perhaps another cutting board as a christmas present.
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Dec 4, 2015 08:57
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Pretty sure I figured out what was making my bandsaw deflect. In order to cut through 4.5" of material, I needed to raise the blade guides up about as far as they go. The blade guard is also attached to these guides, and when you raise it up that high, it runs into the upper body of the bandsaw, pushing the entire guard+guides assemble outwards a bit. That made one of the bearings twist the blade. I replaced the blade with a fresh blade, realigned the bearings, removed the blade guard, and did another practice cut while going slowly, and got good enough results for me to be able to glue the pieces together without visible gaps. Awesome.
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Dec 4, 2015 16:56
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I've been making a shotgun stock. It has been a pretty fun process.
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Dec 4, 2015 17:10
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One of my good buddies about to have a baby and I'm looking for plans for a rocking chair. All of the ones I've found are Adirondack style and I was hoping for a less bulky design. Anybody happen to have any plans like that or know where I can find them? I tried the links in the op but couldn't find anything.
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Dec 6, 2015 05:18
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Does anyone here know how solid hardwood paneling is typically installed so that any finish nails/screws are hidden from sight in the final product (like what you'd see here, but not necessarily as elaborately expensive: http://www.davidcrowley.com/private-client-001.html. I can't really seem to find any useful guides beyond constructing the initial panels. Are they simply glued to the wall in areas?
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Dec 6, 2015 14:07
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GENUINE CAT HERDER posted:Does anyone here know how solid hardwood paneling is typically installed so that any finish nails/screws are hidden from sight in the final product (like what you'd see here, but not necessarily as elaborately expensive: http://www.davidcrowley.com/private-client-001.html. my guess is, nail the base boards in places that will be covered by trim and then use a micro pin nailer to attach the trim over top.
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Dec 6, 2015 15:08
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GENUINE CAT HERDER posted:Does anyone here know how solid hardwood paneling is typically installed so that any finish nails/screws are hidden from sight in the final product (like what you'd see here, but not necessarily as elaborately expensive: http://www.davidcrowley.com/private-client-001.html. If it's anything like the mdf homeless despot thing, there are little attachment plates screwed to the wall from which the frame hangs with the panels floating in the frame.
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Dec 6, 2015 15:18
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GENUINE CAT HERDER posted:Does anyone here know how solid hardwood paneling is typically installed so that any finish nails/screws are hidden from sight in the final product (like what you'd see here, but not necessarily as elaborately expensive: http://www.davidcrowley.com/private-client-001.html. When I did that type wainscoting, we nailed and glued 1/4" paneling to the wall then built up the frame with 3/4" stock. Then panel mold inside the frames like in the picture. Even if the walls were flat, we'd use finish staples on the paneling. You can hide that behind where the stiles and rails will attach, and toenail thoze where the panel mold will cover, but that's a thin area that is apt to splinter. The panel mold takes a jigged cut on the miter saw. You place a3/4" piece of stock across the miter saw table to raise the molding up to the same angle as on the panel, so you get a good tight joint. Capeesh? You'll still need to use a pin naileron the molding like Hubis mentioned.
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Dec 6, 2015 16:14
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I don't think I ever ended up posting the finished product for my walnut & cedar box.   Here's the progress on a secretary desk I'm building. I've got most of the sculpting/shaping complete, so I'm working on the internal frame for the drawers now. 
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Dec 6, 2015 21:13
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Mr. Mambold posted:When I did that type wainscoting, we nailed and glued 1/4" paneling to the wall then built up the frame with 3/4" stock. Then panel mold inside the frames like in the picture. Thanks, I figured the process probably involved a lot of clever hiding of the attachments. Good to know that I wasn't too far off in how it works. Deedle posted:If it's anything like the mdf homeless despot thing, there are little attachment plates screwed to the wall from which the frame hangs with the panels floating in the frame. Do you know what these attachments are called? I've been looking for some for a while that are more heavy duty and possibly locking in place for hanging some wood pieces that I've carved on the walls, but asking around only gets either blank looks or people telling me to go look at drywall attachments.
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Dec 7, 2015 08:52
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mds2 posted:I've been making a shotgun stock. It has been a pretty fun process. That's sexy.
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Dec 7, 2015 15:00
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Another end grain board, in pine: This is actually a renovation, inherited this many years ago from my grandmother. I handplaned away the worst of the old surface, trimmed off the edges and sanded before finishing with a combo of raw linseed oil, beeswax and carnauba.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:41
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How well does pine hold up as a cutting board? I thought you generally wanted to go for the harder, tight-grained woods for that kind of application. Looks nice though.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:58
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Well since it's an end grain cutting board and you're cutting between the fibers and it can sorta self heal when you treat it with oil, it matters less than with a long grain board. And I did I inherit this, I dunno how old it is, made sometimes in the 90s I think. And pine's naturally antiseptic too.
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Dec 7, 2015 20:16
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GENUINE CAT HERDER posted:Do you know what these attachments are called? I've been looking for some for a while that are more heavy duty and possibly locking in place for hanging some wood pieces that I've carved on the walls, but asking around only gets either blank looks or people telling me to go look at drywall attachments. They're similar to the plastic H brackets used for picture rails and hollow mdf plinths, but more beefy. It might be a local thing, considering you can't really nail things to concrete walls the way you can with wooden stud walls.
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Dec 8, 2015 04:28
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GENUINE CAT HERDER posted:Do you know what these attachments are called? I've been looking for some for a while that are more heavy duty and possibly locking in place for hanging some wood pieces that I've carved on the walls, but asking around only gets either blank looks or people telling me to go look at drywall attachments. They are (million different brand names) cleats. Best thing is to Google image search until you find something that matches unfortunately. E:I had good luck searching panel cleat and z-clip
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Dec 8, 2015 11:45
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Cakefool posted:E:I had good luck searching panel cleat and z-clip Hell. loving. Yes. These are exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks 
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Dec 8, 2015 12:42
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Working on a set of jigs for dovetails on the table saw. http://imgur.com/a/pOuAB  Managed to get everything dead square with fairly minimal headscratching.
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Dec 9, 2015 03:35
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http://imgur.com/gallery/49hBm I chortled at this.
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Dec 9, 2015 11:03
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I asked for a table saw for christmas, gents. Wish me luck! http://www.consumersearch.com/table-saw-reviews/dewalt-dw745 Not the finest, but certainly better than nothing. I'm still so loving excited. Chances are I'm going to get a completely different one that cost 1/4 the price though. My question for you: What are some useful jigs (much like the dovetail one above) that I could put together? I'm hoping for simple, and looking to gain experience by making them.
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Dec 9, 2015 16:43
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I asked for a table saw for christmas, gents. Wish me luck! This is my table saw, and I was sad to find out it won't take a dado blade. Didn't even know what a dado blade was when I bought it. Luckily, I have a nice router. Other than that, this thing gets it done.
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Dec 9, 2015 22:55
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bobua posted:This is my table saw, and I was sad to find out it won't take a dado blade. Didn't even know what a dado blade was when I bought it. Luckily, I have a nice router. I never really understood the appeal of dado stacks. What can they accomplish that making multiple, slightly offset cuts can't? It seems like a lot of complexity to just save yourself from having to make multiple passes. Maybe if you knew you had to make a lot of grooves it'd make more sense, but for most users the extra time spent changing blades would seem to wipe out any gains.
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Dec 9, 2015 23:00
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Cutting dados with multiple passes rather than a dado blade works fine for me, never felt the need for one. As for first table saw jigs, immediately build a nice sled for it. Making nice square crosscuts is way easier with a sled, and you'll get some practice making it perfectly square (or you'll have a lot of just-off-square firewood).
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Dec 9, 2015 23:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I never really understood the appeal of dado stacks. What can they accomplish that making multiple, slightly offset cuts can't? It seems like a lot of complexity to just save yourself from having to make multiple passes. Maybe if you knew you had to make a lot of grooves it'd make more sense, but for most users the extra time spent changing blades would seem to wipe out any gains. Or, god help you, a wobble blade. I stick with a router and straight bit, personally, but successive cuts is so much easier if you just need a quick dado or two. Setting up a dado stack takes a fair bit of time, too.
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Dec 9, 2015 23:12
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I never really understood the appeal of dado stacks. What can they accomplish that making multiple, slightly offset cuts can't? It seems like a lot of complexity to just save yourself from having to make multiple passes. Maybe if you knew you had to make a lot of grooves it'd make more sense, but for most users the extra time spent changing blades would seem to wipe out any gains. I had never done box joints. Did one this weekend with successive cuts and it came out just okay(after some sanding and adjusting. With a sled I think it will be a breeze, but I'd still use a dado or router if I knew I had to do a lot of them.
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Dec 9, 2015 23:56
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I've gotten ahold of the early seasons of The Woodwright's Shop, Roy is so young it's scary. So many scars to gain.
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Dec 11, 2015 18:25
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RadioPassive posted:Cutting dados with multiple passes rather than a dado blade works fine for me, never felt the need for one. Fantastic, thanks! So far on my list: - bench hook - sled - a few dozen boxes of multiple sizes to practice for a possible ring. 
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Dec 11, 2015 20:19
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I've had my table saw for a year now and have yet to make a sled. SCMS has done the job so far. Maybe over christmas I'll re-watch William Ng's video and actually make one
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Dec 12, 2015 05:32
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