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M.C. McMic posted:Also, I was already kind of checking out the Veritas smoothing planes. Looking specifically at the Bevel Up Smoother Plane. It seems pretty versatile and allows you to adjust angles pretty easily. If you're going to buy new, this is by far my most used plane (by a giant margin) https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/rabbet-block-plane-w-nicker It's low-angle, and the blade is the full width of the sole so you can get right up into a rabbet or the shoulder of a tenon, but it's still equally good at anything else a block plane would do. A #4 Stanley is otherwise the best single plane to have (see: Paul Sellers), but the little Lie-Nielsen will remain ridiculously useful when/if you ever get into powertools as well. eBay will have tons of vintage #4 Stanley planes http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-STANLEY-BAILEY-NO-4-BENCH-PLANE-/111856045385?hash=item1a0b23cd49:g:bdEAAOSw3KFWeULi http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Beautiful...3YAAOSwo3pWecnz http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-Bailey-No-4-Plane-/361457090430?hash=item5428857f7e:g:-1MAAOSwUdlWgE8L etc Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Dec 27, 2015 |
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Dec 27, 2015 22:14
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Ok, this question isn't really woodworking, but i'm dealing primarily with woodworking tools so I'm gonna ask anyways. I have some aluminum extrusion, which I have been cutting on a miter saw (i got a specific blade for non-ferrous material). I want the ends of the cuts to square (and flat) to a very high precision. Instead of continually trying to square up a slightly janky miter saw, I'm thinking of using something like a belt sander or some kind of fine grit grinding wheel to square up the edge after the cut is made. Does this sound like a good idea. I could maybe put together some jig to hold the piece perpendicular to the sanding belt over a long length of the piece to help guarantee squareness. Any suggestions?
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Dec 27, 2015 22:50
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peepsalot posted:Ok, this question isn't really woodworking, but i'm dealing primarily with woodworking tools so I'm gonna ask anyways. I have some aluminum extrusion, which I have been cutting on a miter saw (i got a specific blade for non-ferrous material). I want the ends of the cuts to square (and flat) to a very high precision. Instead of continually trying to square up a slightly janky miter saw, I'm thinking of using something like a belt sander or some kind of fine grit grinding wheel to square up the edge after the cut is made. Does this sound like a good idea. I could maybe put together some jig to hold the piece perpendicular to the sanding belt over a long length of the piece to help guarantee squareness. Any suggestions? That may work, but I wouldn't go that route. If you want high precision, use a good miter saw or a table saw at dead 90, with a good carbide blade. You don't need a specific blade, aluminum is soft.
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Dec 27, 2015 22:59
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peepsalot posted:Ok, this question isn't really woodworking, but i'm dealing primarily with woodworking tools so I'm gonna ask anyways. I have some aluminum extrusion, which I have been cutting on a miter saw (i got a specific blade for non-ferrous material). I want the ends of the cuts to square (and flat) to a very high precision. Instead of continually trying to square up a slightly janky miter saw, I'm thinking of using something like a belt sander or some kind of fine grit grinding wheel to square up the edge after the cut is made. Does this sound like a good idea. I could maybe put together some jig to hold the piece perpendicular to the sanding belt over a long length of the piece to help guarantee squareness. Any suggestions? This is definitely a thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZQy147k3Aw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlElAkH6XGA And edge sanders are useful as hell anyways, though I think actually getting the miter saw square would be more ideal.
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Dec 27, 2015 23:14
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M.C. McMic posted:Thanks for the advice. This bench although I've never used it or even seen it in person. Eventually you'll probably want to make your own bench and add a nicer vice, but that kit has to be better than clamping things to a table. I wouldn't consider starting with any plane other than a #4 smoother. Expect to pay around $75 for the vintage Stanley version from eBay. I'd also recommend a diamond stone or 3 for sharpening. You can get by with sandpaper on glass for a while but the cost of the paper starts to add up. I like the EZE-lap stones in coarse, fine and super fine. You could start with coarse and get the others later.
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Dec 28, 2015 02:48
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Cpt.Wacky posted:This bench although I've never used it or even seen it in person. Eventually you'll probably want to make your own bench and add a nicer vice, but that kit has to be better than clamping things to a table. I was bench shopping a few months ago and went to take a look at these in the store. The top is maybe 3/4" thick and the frame is also pretty thin. Yes there are a lot of features like the drawers and dogs but I get an overall halfass vibe from it. I recommend attaching it to your house to hold it in position and stiffen it if you go for it. I've seen it assembled in three Harbor Freights so go take a look before you buy. Also, I think it was $99 this summer so keep an eye out for the specials.
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Dec 28, 2015 04:53
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sugar free jazz posted:Figured this might fit into this thread. I know nothing about woodworking or how to treat wood, and I'm pretty dumb about this kinda thing. I have a table that was basically black and tacky from what is apparently decades of oil and grime. I cleaned maybe 10% of it pretty thoroughly with some wood cleaner I got from Target and paper towels, and saw that the wood was actually pretty and called my parents to get the story on the table. I guess it's walnut and made by family friends, so it has some sentimental value and I don't want to gently caress it up by cleaning and treating it wrong. I'd appreciate some advice on how to properly treat this thing. It also has some water damage, I don't know if that factors into this at all. I would clean the table properly with something like Clean-A-Finish and then restore it with (you guessed it) Restor-A-Finish. poo poo is like magic at fixing up old furniture.
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Dec 28, 2015 09:49
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I'm also likely to want a work bench some time soon. I'm living with rather limited space so I'd rather prefer something foldable. Is this kind of bench any good?  Or would a plain (heavy) folding table be better?
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Dec 28, 2015 09:53
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nielsm posted:I'm also likely to want a work bench some time soon. I'm living with rather limited space so I'd rather prefer something foldable. I am also limited on space. I'm in an apartment in Seattle. I build this that someone linked here: http://www.closegrain.com/2013/12/apartment-workbench.html?m=1 Here are my pictures of my build of it: https://imgur.com/a/ESvJh I hosed up the top by not getting it flat. Be ready to place all the pieces of the top at once and make them flat. The guide doesn't really mention that I think because someone with experience would know that already. It actually leaves out a few screw lengths too. Be ready to run out for more screws if you are following it like a recipe. I think that guide was kind of a work in progress of learning how to make a guide. I is good enough though. As you see, I am cutting wood on my carpet floor for part of it. It is good enough for small projects. PM me if you want to make one. Oh, here is the cutest picture of the bench: 
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Dec 28, 2015 10:51
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Nice job! I'm going to give this a try as well and let you know how it goes.
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Dec 28, 2015 16:15
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nielsm posted:I'm also likely to want a work bench some time soon. I'm living with rather limited space so I'd rather prefer something foldable. I own one of those and I'm pretty happy with it. The vise makes holding awkward pieces much easier and its small enough to fold away instantly. The slots on top for dogs is a nice touch too. Goons, I have a different problem. I own a table saw, jigsaw, a cordless driver, a corded drill, and a drill press. I have a handful of chisels, and I'm coming to the conclusion that I suck at using an oilstone. Would a bench grinder be worth my time? I have some Christmas money to burn, and my workspace is a bit limited. I'm looking at some of the entry level ones like a ryobi. Thoughts?
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Dec 28, 2015 17:00
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Do you just want to sharpen your chisels or is this for general grinding use too?
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Dec 28, 2015 17:07
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RadioPassive posted:Do you just want to sharpen your chisels or is this for general grinding use too? For now sharpening chisels and drill bits.
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Dec 28, 2015 17:13
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The harbor freight woodworking bench is pretty janky. It's lightweight and not overly solid and if you are planning on cutting mortises with chisels I don't think it will survive for very long. The small clamp benches have the same problem, they are nice for little space and holing things while you tinker but won't survive much real work. Impact tends to kill them quick. I recommend your first project be to build a really solid bench that fits the space you have to work in. I don't have much space so I recently picked up a jaw horse ($100 from lowes) to hold my pieces while I plane them and I do my chiseling on my bench which is up against a wall. For starting, I would get a rabbet plane and a bench smoothing plane (stanley no 4 being really common). To true up the sole and blade, don't futz about with glass; get on enco.com and buy a certified surface plate, they cost $50 or less these days and you can get a 20% off coupon and free delivery if you are willing to get on the email list and wait a few hours. I measured the one I got and it actually held up at least to the accuracy of my measuring tools, so you know you will have a perfectly flat plane. Clamps are going to be what you need most. The aluminum extruded guide clamps from harbor freight are actually pretty good deals. Don't bother with the friction ones with the triggers, they wear out in about a year. Pipe clamps are great for bigger projects. Get some band clamps if you want to make boxes with mitered corners or picture frames especially if you want angles other than 90 degrees. Other than that, a decent dovetail saw can be had for as little as $20 and is really practical for all sorts of small cuts. Dovetails by hand are all about practice. You need some sort of miter saw and guide, not the cheap plastic box from sears. Get a rubber mallet or a woodworkers hammer. You will need a "persuader".
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Dec 28, 2015 17:58
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If I build a workbench and keep it in a carport (where I'll likely be working), will it warp or otherwise degrade quickly if I keep it covered and out of direct sunlight? This isn't ideal in Austin, TX, but it's what I have to work with.
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Dec 28, 2015 19:15
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M.C. McMic posted:If I build a workbench and keep it in a carport (where I'll likely be working), will it warp or otherwise degrade quickly if I keep it covered and out of direct sunlight? Water is going to be the biggest concern with warping.
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Dec 28, 2015 19:21
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Thanks, I appreciate the responses duders. When I was reading the descriptions I saw Fine Grade Steel Wool (oooo) and thought it was some kind of sarcastic joke. vOv sugar free jazz fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Dec 28, 2015 |
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Dec 28, 2015 19:53
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I want to build a big toy chest to store the infinite amount of toys my daughter has but I would like to try my hands at some sort of joinery as an introduction to woodworking. I have done basic constructions before and own a reasonable amount of tools. What do you guys suggest?
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Dec 28, 2015 20:12
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internet inc posted:I want to build a big toy chest to store the infinite amount of toys my daughter has but I would like to try my hands at some sort of joinery as an introduction to woodworking. I have done basic constructions before and own a reasonable amount of tools. What do you guys suggest? Box/finger joints and dovetail joints are both classics for that kind of project. Good luck!
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Dec 28, 2015 20:17
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Raerlynn posted:For now sharpening chisels and drill bits. Drill bits I don't know, but my chisels don't go anywhere near my grinder. I have a set of stones for real rough blade repair and I use Scary Sharp for the final edge. Do people sharpen chisels and planes on their bench grinder? Seems too imprecise for my taste.
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Dec 28, 2015 21:47
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RadioPassive posted:Drill bits I don't know, but my chisels don't go anywhere near my grinder. I have a set of stones for real rough blade repair and I use Scary Sharp for the final edge. Frequently; if you use the right wheel you can get them nice and sharp fast and then you just finish them on a high grit stone. It is also incredibly useful for repairing a chisel that happens to hit a hidden nail in the board or get dropped edge first onto cement. For lathe chisels, most people don't bother finishing past the grinder because they just wear to fast for it to be worth it.
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Dec 28, 2015 22:26
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The junk collector posted:Frequently; if you use the right wheel you can get them nice and sharp fast and then you just finish them on a high grit stone. It is also incredibly useful for repairing a chisel that happens to hit a hidden nail in the board or get dropped edge first onto cement. For lathe chisels, most people don't bother finishing past the grinder because they just wear to fast for it to be worth it. Any thoughts on what kind of grit we're talking? I'm tempted to pick up a cheap Ryobi or Wen.
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Dec 28, 2015 22:29
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So I found myself trying to put a reasonable finish on 4 4" boards I jointed (with a router  ) then glued. Other than learning my lesson, buying a bench planer and starting again what sort of plane would be used for this, my little combo block plane is too short and light and difficult to hold.
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Dec 29, 2015 00:46
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Raerlynn posted:Any thoughts on what kind of grit we're talking? I'm tempted to pick up a cheap Ryobi or Wen. A bench grinder is a great tool to have in the shop, especially if you put a wire wheel on one side and use it to clean up old tools. The grinding wheel is really best for removing nicks from blades or "starting over" on something you're restoring that has been mangled by an incompetent boob. Grinders can also be good for sharpening twist drill bits but it takes a little practice to get the technique right, youtube videos should help with that. For what it's worth my $49 Ryobi grinder has been great for the last few years. If you're having trouble sharpening on an oilstone then you may want to consider getting a honing guide like the one from Veritas. You may also want to get some diamond stones. Cakefool posted:So I found myself trying to put a reasonable finish on 4 4" boards I jointed (with a router 4" wide or thick, or long? What went wrong with applying the finish? Jointing is usually done with longer plane, like a #6 or 7.
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Dec 29, 2015 02:07
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Cpt.Wacky posted:4" wide or thick, or long? What went wrong with applying the finish? 4" wide, about 50" long. What went wrong is it taking a massive amount of effort and not getting a consistent smooth board yet. I started with rough sawn timber for this bit. And just so I'm saying what I think I'm saying, jointing is putting a straight edge on the side of the board so it glues up neatly, right?
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Dec 29, 2015 03:50
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Raerlynn posted:I have a handful of chisels, and I'm coming to the conclusion that I suck at using an oilstone. Would a bench grinder be worth my time? I have some Christmas money to burn, and my workspace is a bit limited. I'm looking at some of the entry level ones like a ryobi. Thoughts? Grinders for a bench chisel are used for rough work fixing damaged edges and establishing the bevel before getting it properly sharp on stones. If you don't have a fancy wet grinder (Tormek) you need to be careful not to take the temper out of the steel. I use a fairly coarse diamond plate (also good for flattening the other stones) and 1000 and 8000 grit ceramic water stones. Works well, a bit slow lapping old plane blades. Also get a honing guide unless you sharpen for a living and can do it freehand.
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Dec 29, 2015 09:04
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Cakefool posted:4" wide, about 50" long. What went wrong is it taking a massive amount of effort and not getting a consistent smooth board yet. I started with rough sawn timber for this bit. Yes. For edge jointing that length you'd want a #7. For finish smoothing the surface a #4 is good. To get a rough board mostly flat first use a short-ish plane with an open throat and a blade set for a deep cut. There's a balance between taking off lots of timber to flatten the board quickly and not tearing the surface to shreds giving you lots of smoothing work later. Block planes are really for small scale work, they're designed for working on end grain.
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Dec 29, 2015 09:14
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I've been reading this thread for about two years (!!) and I have 50 pages left. Almost there! I've only done the most basic construction carpentry before, but I started watching videos and reading books. I picked up Paul Seller's Working Wood, on this threads advice, and picked up tools here and there. I've done a few simple things, like shelves, but nothing really fancy. A small (2' x 3') workbench is probably the biggest project thus far. Someone in this thread mentioned that every time they do a new project, they try to incorporate one new skill. That seemed like a good idea. I started with some toy trucks from plans I got online. The trucks themselves came out alright, but I had fun doing some of the lamination work, and I think if I had chosen a different stain, the results would have been much nicer.  Among other benefits, the trucks helped motivate me to build a router table https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnhKtUKCnFo Which was the one thing I didn't have. Back at home, I've always been bothered by the crappy silverware drawer in my house. I decided to build my own, and to buy nice wood and make it really fancy.  Maple sides with sliding dovetail joints, a birch ply base, and oak strips down the middle. My other hobby is blacksmithing, so I'm working on my own handle hardware, too.   I'm very happy with this so far, and I'm almost finished. I've learned quite a bit doing these two projects, and wanted to share with the thread that helped me out. I'll post some finished shots when it's all done, as soon as I get another day or two to spend time in my garage. I do have some questions about glue... I glued the toy trucks before staining, and was dismayed to find out how much the glue interfered. The 2 yr old getting the trucks doesn't care, but I don't want giant empty spaces in my finish. Should I do my finishes before gluing? Are there glues that are stainable (and actually work)?
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Dec 29, 2015 14:30
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Pagan posted:
Either wipe the squeezeout off quickly with a slightly damp cloth, or use masking/painters tape to tape off where you dont want the glue to go, glue up, then remove once its got a bit of a skin on it, and no more will squeeze out. edit, or you can wait till the glue has formed a bit of a skin, then scrape it off with a chisel or something, but I find this way to be the easiest of the lot to mess up and damage the workpiece, and sometimes you just cant get a chisel in there. NPR Journalizard fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 14:44
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Going to buy my first batch of real hardwood. Found this great posting nearby.  Planning on grabbing some walnut, ash and maple. Says the walnut is 7' x 6-12" wide with some live edge. The only thing I've built so far was my workbench (the apartment one on close grain) so this will give me a lot of cool options. Any tips?
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Dec 29, 2015 16:19
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Raerlynn posted:Any thoughts on what kind of grit we're talking? I'm tempted to pick up a cheap Ryobi or Wen. The grit is fairly low, typically a few hundred max but most of what you see tops out below 200 and like a few other people have said, it is mostly used for repair work or sharpening lathe tools. What you need to look for is a friable wheel. Friable means that the wheel breaks down easily which allows it to cut cleaner, faster, and cooler making it suitable for high speed steel tools like chisels. The rate of wear on your wheel can be high if you go with a white (most friable) wheel so you may want to look into a longer lasting red one. Especially if you are sharpening tools that are narrower than the wheel such as gouges. You can also get leather or rubber finishing wheels that you use as a mechanical strop and polish with rouge. You can also build a wood one to do the same polishing work. I've seen wood turners build wood stropping wheels into the head of their lathes so that they can touch up sharpen without walking away from their work as well. You can use the stock grey wheels for tools, but make sure you get at least a fine grit wheel as they normally come with coarse and medium which are fine for lawnmower blades but not so much for precise tools like for your wood working. If you use a stock grey wheel you will have to be very careful about overheating your tool and dress it frequently to get a good even edge like DAAS Kapitalist said. Also, if you can't free hand on a stone, then make a guide for your grinder before sharpening. Those little plate guides they come with suck for chisels and free handing on a wheel will just let you mess up your tool faster. p.s. biggest wheel is best wheel.
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Dec 29, 2015 16:31
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I got some xmas money and decided it was time to get some more clamps. I've mostly been using those irwin quick release clamps, and they just aren't great. They have their role but just suck for complicated or heavy glue ups. I thought I could get some sweet boxing week deals, but man I was wrong. Clamp prices in Canada are just hosed. I see posts like this reddit post where someone gets 18 screw clamps for $45 and it just makes me sad. That's just unheard of here. Those clamps are $15-20 each here in Canada and never seem to be on sale.  I think it might be time to watch for a sale and then take a road trip to buffalo. I'm only like 90 min from the border. I know Harbor Freight seems to get a lot of hate, but it seems like $2.99 clamps is too good to be true... Anyone have advice on getting cheap clamps in Canada? I've been scouring CL/Kijiji with no luck. Maybe somewhere I can order online? keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 16:57
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I got some xmas money and decided it was time to get some more clamps. I've mostly been using those irwin quick release clamps, and they just aren't great. They have their role but just suck for complicated or heavy glue ups. Also, in Canada, similar location as you. Back in Nov I got a 4-pack of Bessey clamps for $20 at Home Depot. It's no 18 clamps for $45 but it's still pretty cheap.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:04
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I have TONS of harbor freight F clamps. They are by far the best value for the money. I grab 2 every time I go in. Those 6" ones are my most used. I have probably 20 of them.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:16
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Opioid posted:Also, in Canada, similar location as you. Back in Nov I got a 4-pack of Bessey clamps for $20 at Home Depot. It's no 18 clamps for $45 but it's still pretty cheap. Nice. That's a good deal. I see those packs online for $30 right now. Sadly no stores near me have them in stock. I'd have to drive out to Brampton to get some. So maybe I'll luck out and they will restock soon locally. I'm strongly debating a trip to Harbour Freight now. There is one just across the Niagara border which is a little over an hour drive. Those ones I linked seem to get decent reviews, however it seems the larger ones bend under high pressure. I use pipe clamps for anything large so I'm mostly interested in the 6-12" variety. Their site says they ship internationally as well, though I think I have to call them as the checkout won't accept a non US postal code. Even with our poo poo dollar I'd save $10 per pack compared to that $30 set. So if I buy enough it'd come out ahead even after gas costs. Though maybe border fees will kill those savings.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:20
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Though maybe border fees will kill those savings.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:25
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DAAS Kapitalist posted:Yes. For edge jointing that length you'd want a #7. For finish smoothing the surface a #4 is good. To get a rough board mostly flat first use a short-ish plane with an open throat and a blade set for a deep cut. There's a balance between taking off lots of timber to flatten the board quickly and not tearing the surface to shreds giving you lots of smoothing work later. Block planes are really for small scale work, they're designed for working on end grain. And just like that I've ordered 2 more planes  Thanks! Still cheaper than a benchtop planer, smaller and a more useful skill. I'll keep telling myself that.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:34
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Opioid posted:Going to buy my first batch of real hardwood. Found this great posting nearby. Tips on buying or what to build? With that much variety the guy probably knows what he's doing, but air drying hardwood is not a no-brainer. Hope you know what you're looking for
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Dec 29, 2015 17:46
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Anyone have advice on getting cheap clamps in Canada? I've been scouring CL/Kijiji with no luck. Maybe somewhere I can order online? Ask your local hardware store if they can do a special order for you. I know mine (which is on completely the opposite side of the globe) can order from one of the larger hardware retailers around, and have it shipped to their store, where they sell it to me, and I dont pay freight or anything like that.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:57
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Mr. Mambold posted:Tips on buying or what to build? With that much variety the guy probably knows what he's doing, but air drying hardwood is not a no-brainer. Hope you know what you're looking for Tips on buying. Been reading up on air dried stuff now since I've never bought rough lumber before.
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Dec 29, 2015 18:04
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