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What the gently caress
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Jan 5, 2016 18:07
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That's some Airfix quality right there.
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Jan 5, 2016 18:27
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Ensign Expendable posted:That's some Airfix quality right there. To be fair, it looks like quite a nice Zero. I'm currently wondering whether to build it in the Vampire's colour scheme since I've got the instructions and decals for that.
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Jan 5, 2016 18:35
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Unkempt posted:To be fair, it looks like quite a nice Zero. I'm currently wondering whether to build it in the Vampire's colour scheme since I've got the instructions and decals for that. It is so very very craptank. DOOOOO ITTTTTTT e: I just checked on scalemates - Airfix's version of the Zero dates from the late '50s. Did you know the airfix vampire is brand new? 
Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 21:33
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Unkempt posted:Right, my Airfix Vampire finally arrived after the neighbour brought it round because the UPS man can't read door numbers. Anyway, let's have a look. To be fair, this is an exceptionally crap model of a Vampire.
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Jan 5, 2016 21:42
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Nebakenezzer posted:It is so very very craptank. DOOOOO ITTTTTTT In 2011 Airfix made a whole new tooling for the Zero though, and based on the sprues that's the new mold version. I was actually looking into buying the Zero when I was in Bulgaria, but ended up with a few other kits instead.
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Jan 5, 2016 21:46
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That Zero is so clearly your destiny. E: I built two 1:56 Shermans from Warlord Games for our wargaming club, and drat, they were simplistic. In one way it's probably good because they look like they can stand the rigours of wargaming a lot better than "proper" models. But at the same time... it felt weird to put together a tank with so few parts. I think I'll stay with Tamiya's 1/48 tanks for my Germans, thank you very much. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 22:27
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I agree, make the Zero, but paint it as a Vampire.
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Jan 6, 2016 00:41
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Nebakenezzer posted:Get the micro-machine one? Nebakenezzer posted:It is so very very craptank. DOOOOO ITTTTTTT
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Jan 6, 2016 01:07
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Arquinsiel posted:... Yeah, there's a good chance an entire batch got hosed up. Though I suppose it's possible there's precisely one person out there really, really confused by the contents of their Zero box. Or maybe returns fuckery, like some assholes back in the day who would buy a cheap-rear end SNES game, rent something that's a pain in the rear end to find or inexplicably expensive, open up the cartridge, and swap the circuit boards. So they'd get an ultra-cheap copy of Chrono Trigger or whatever and some poor sap would get home with what they'd realize to their horror was actually Clay Fighter Tournament Edition.
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Jan 6, 2016 01:13
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Unkempt posted:Right, my Airfix Vampire finally arrived after the neighbour brought it round because the UPS man can't read door numbers. Anyway, let's have a look. 
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Jan 6, 2016 03:13
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That's one way to win craplane without picking up a single tool.
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Jan 6, 2016 05:32
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I'd say bring out the evergreen and putty and scratchbuild that Zero into a prop driven Vampire! 
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Jan 6, 2016 05:47
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Welp, finished up my new hood for the airbrush booth. I may extend the front a little straight out, to give it some more.... enclosureness.... I guess? Otherwise though, it turned out pretty good and gave me a lot more room to do my larger pieces.
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Jan 6, 2016 09:25
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Welp, finished up my new hood for the airbrush booth. I may extend the front a little straight out, to give it some more.... enclosureness.... I guess? Otherwise though, it turned out pretty good and gave me a lot more room to do my larger pieces. Are those Mars Attacks figures for the game? If so, is that any good? Looked fun enough and I love the campy sci fi thing it's got going.
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Jan 6, 2016 09:47
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Nostalgia4Ass posted:Are those Mars Attacks figures for the game? If so, is that any good? Looked fun enough and I love the campy sci fi thing it's got going. Never heard about a game for it. Those are actually all parts for one model, not individual figs. It's a figure from Moebius Models, based more on the old Mars Attacks trading cards, rather than the Tim Burton movie.
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Jan 6, 2016 10:12
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Never heard about a game for it. Those are actually all parts for one model, not individual figs. It's a figure from Moebius Models, based more on the old Mars Attacks trading cards, rather than the Tim Burton movie. Ahh ok, there is a miniatures boardgame called Mars Attacks that uses figures which look similar. I thought maybe the box in your picture was them. 
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Jan 6, 2016 10:18
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"Officially" reached the "40% done" point on Victorys Cross Section. Well, that is 40 % of issues into this partwork, not 40% of actual work, because there's going to be lots and lots of very fiddly detail work towards the end of the build. Also, because quite obviously I'm not doing enough comically oversized multi-year projects yet, I've gone ahead and started building HMS Hood in 1:200. That comes to about 1,30 m boat length. What it looks like after the first months progress of a projected 35 month run:  What it should look like at the end 
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Jan 6, 2016 10:42
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Any recommendations on a first airbrush setup? Cheap is good, and it is almost entirely for planes.
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Jan 6, 2016 15:52
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bewbies posted:Any recommendations on a first airbrush setup? Cheap is good, and it is almost entirely for planes. I have that Revell starter pack with a airbrush and a small tabletop compressor in a carrying case. It works just fine for what I use it for; priming, basecoating and big camouflage patterns. You can also buy a nozzle set with some finer nozzles so you can spray finer lines but I havent felt the need yet. I bought it for around 110 for it two years ago. http://www.revell.de/en/products/airbrush/sets/id/39199.html
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Jan 6, 2016 16:55
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bewbies posted:Any recommendations on a first airbrush setup? Cheap is good, and it is almost entirely for planes. I have this compressor. It came in a bundle with this airbrush. I can't find the exact bundle I got. Buying these two together is cheaper than the bundles I can find, which have additional stuff you don't really need. The brush is perfectly workable, though not great. I've since replaced it with an Iwata that's more consistent, easier to clean, etc, but it cost more than the compressor. I have absolutely no complaints and the compressor. It's reasonably quiet, quieter than a normal conversation. There's a version with a tank that lets it run less often, but I haven't found the lack of one a problem. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 17:10
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Greyhawk posted:"Officially" reached the "40% done" point on Victorys Cross Section. Well, that is 40 % of issues into this partwork, not 40% of actual work, because there's going to be lots and lots of very fiddly detail work towards the end of the build. Coming along nicely. Greyhawk posted:Also, because quite obviously I'm not doing enough comically oversized multi-year projects yet, I've gone ahead and started building HMS Hood in 1:200. That comes to about 1,30 m boat length. Cool, didn't even know that one existed. Is that a partwork also, and who makes it?
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Jan 6, 2016 17:26
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Blue Footed Booby posted:I have this compressor. It came in a bundle with this airbrush. I can't find the exact bundle I got. Buying these two together is cheaper than the bundles I can find, which have additional stuff you don't really need. Is this a similar setup? I certainly don't need anything "good" as I'm generally terrible at all of this but I do want to be able to do some camo patterns and whatnot. bewbies fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 17:40
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The Locator posted:Coming along nicely. Yes, another partwork. The model is designed and produced by Amati (they did the 1:200 Bismarck and 1:250 Titanic before) and distributed exclusively through Hachette Collections. I don't think Hachette is doing partworks in the US yet, though. They're very eurasian-centric. Here's a nice look at the Bismarck they did before. The Hood is on the same level of detail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ta5Px-S7B4U Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 18:23
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bewbies posted:Is this a similar setup? It appears to be, but the compressor's body is different, and I'm not sure if there are non cosmetic differences. That said, it's probably just fine. Edit: gently caress it, I'll do some googling Edit2: the black one is TC-20. The silver one is TC-20-H6-B. It's hard to Google for differences because there's a fancy watch named Master Compressor, and an exercise machine named TC20. Branding is hard. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 18:27
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Both of these compressors lack a tank. A tank adds maybe 10 to 20 dollars to the bill and makes a world of difference.
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Jan 6, 2016 18:31
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Greyhawk posted:Both of these compressors lack a tank. A tank adds maybe 10 to 20 dollars to the bill and makes a world of difference. My tank is tiny, but those few seconds of silence before the pump gets working are p. nice.
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Jan 6, 2016 18:36
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The tank will make the compressor last much longer before burning out. Always be tanking. Edit: vvvvvvv Check out the TC-20T it is the de facto standard for goon recommended compressors. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 19:12
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By tank we're referring to a little tank that stores compressed air? Is there a package deal that has one of those in the same price range?
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Jan 6, 2016 19:14
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Greyhawk posted:Yes, another partwork. The model is designed and produced by Amati (they did the 1:200 Bismarck and 1:250 Titanic before) and distributed exclusively through Hachette Collections. I don't think Hachette is doing partworks in the US yet, though. They're very eurasian-centric. Very interesting. I see that it's a wood frame, how is the hull itself and the superstructure constructed?
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Jan 6, 2016 19:39
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bewbies posted:By tank we're referring to a little tank that stores compressed air? Is there a package deal that has one of those in the same price range? It usually is built into the compressor, so that the compressor can work up a few litres of air, and doesn't have to kick in directly as soon as you want to spray. AFAIK, it's mostly the cheapest of the cheap compressors that don't have a tank.
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Jan 6, 2016 19:48
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The Locator posted:Very interesting. I see that it's a wood frame, how is the hull itself and the superstructure constructed? The outer hull is a plank on frame construction, then a second planking, then the whole thing is smothered in wood filler and sanded. The superstructure elements are also built out of wood frames which are then covered with PE walls. All the small bits are ABS or diecast pieces and lots and lots more PE. The whole deck + superstructure is removable, so it's possible to make the entire kit RC capable (won't be doing this, I have no body of water nearby I would want to put this into) Here's some pictures of the actual build from someone who finished his already (this partwork ran in the UK already some years ago) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCZizO3iWuE Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 20:19
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I forgot how much a single human can hate tiny little metal tabs....
Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Jan 7, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 23:36
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'Stare too long onto the PE, and the PE stares back at you'
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Jan 7, 2016 02:06
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Added on the airbrush booth extension to enclose it a bit more. Should be able to handle just about anything I throw at it now.
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Jan 7, 2016 10:18
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 It turns out a 1/48 airplane kit box is a lot bigger than a 1/144 Gunpla kit box. Same height, though, so that would make it roughly the same volume as an MG box. Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Jan 7, 2016 |
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Jan 7, 2016 10:53
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So, me and a friend have decided to pool our resources and built a model railway layout.  Because we both hate ourselves.Going for a U-shaped table, with the first module being the red highlighted one. It measures 4x16 feet aprox, and will have the main station and some minor industries. The setting is continental Europe in a 40's-50's setting. So mainly steam engines with a few early electrics.  Any train modelers here to tell me how bad of a track layout this is? I'm certain I will need to redesign parts of it, mainly where switches and cross overs are, but we're set on the basic concept.
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Jan 7, 2016 12:44
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You are going to need some sort of staging yard where you can park cars and trains that you want to run later. It doesn't look bad in any case, just needs some tweaking. What scale are you building? Also, are you interested in operating the layout semi-realistically, switching cars, serving industries and the like, or are you more looking for a layout where you can just watch trains go through pretty scenery?
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Jan 7, 2016 15:22
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H0 scale. There's a number of smaller areas meant as yards but I will look into adding something larger. As for operation, something of an inbetween. I think it's looped enough that there can be one or two trains running un-attended (some minor tweaks possibly needed to make two trains not intersect), but also interesting enough to control directly. As for a staging yard, what is a good size/layout for one? Disregard the narrowgauge track, in the picture. Tiny train picture of one of my locomotives: 
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Jan 7, 2016 15:57
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Here is some info on staging yards. http://www.housatonicrr.com/staging.html I take it that you are planning on running DCC as opposed to DC? One potential pitfall that you will have to be careful about when running is that you have to make sure that noone lines the turnouts wrong and starts running a train in the opposite direction, since it looks like you have a siding that will reverse the direction the train is running. As for yards, I would plan on having the main yard the the one next to the roundhouse, and have it double as an on layout staging yard. (double ended of course) I would also look at putting some sort of industry in that upper left corner, as opposed to the siding that ends at a bridge. A tip that I was given by a friend about looping layouts is to try and think of the back half of the loop as a different location down the tracks operationally, so you would have trains leave the yard, go through the upper rural area, then reach the industries in the back and return. That German steamer looks really cool. I have always liked them. Is the narrow gauge track the track in the lower area that isn't connected to anything? That could actually be a lot of fun to make a little industrial switching operation, which is what I think you are going for, and it would add operation in regard to interchanges with the standard gauge layout. My only suggestion with that is add a run around turnout to the upper area.
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Jan 7, 2016 17:32
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