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wormil posted:Correct. The type of glue varies but generally either yellow wood glue or contact cement will work. I didn't get that; what I read was he intended to put a skin of 1/8" plywood on a frame of...framing lumber. Maybe I misread it. Frankly I'm with you on the big box places- you can get really nice hardwood 3/4" plywood for reasonable.
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Jan 4, 2016 00:11
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Mr. Mambold posted:I didn't get that; what I read was he intended to put a skin of 1/8" plywood on a frame of...framing lumber. Ah... well I have seen shelving done that way but usually for garages or storage units. The 1/8" would be stiffening the cabinet like a lateral brace. But in that case I would probably just nail it on.
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Jan 4, 2016 09:12
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Opinions on this lathe? http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/5377020143.html My tool budget is basically zero for the time being, but I really want to pick up a lathe. Assuming it runs nicely, that plus the included tools doesn't seem too bad for $110.
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Jan 4, 2016 16:48
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bimmian posted:Opinions on this lathe? http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/5377020143.html My tool budget is basically zero for the time being, but I really want to pick up a lathe. Assuming it runs nicely, that plus the included tools doesn't seem too bad for $110. I have zero experience with lathes, but my impression is that they're the cameras of woodworking, viz. once you have one you just keep spending more and more money on extras.
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Jan 4, 2016 17:34
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bimmian posted:Opinions on this lathe? http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/5377020143.html My tool budget is basically zero for the time being, but I really want to pick up a lathe. Assuming it runs nicely, that plus the included tools doesn't seem too bad for $110. The older craftsman tools were really well built. That looks like a steal to me. Have the guy fire it up, and bring cash.
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Jan 4, 2016 17:50
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wormil posted:Ah... well I have seen shelving done that way but usually for garages or storage units. The 1/8" would be stiffening the cabinet like a lateral brace. But in that case I would probably just nail it on. Yeah, same, not ready for prime time interior cabinetry. Plus I've seen 1/8" tear throuhh so many times, it just doesn't add any stability
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Jan 4, 2016 17:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have zero experience with lathes, but my impression is that they're the cameras of woodworking, viz. once you have one you just keep spending more and more money on extras. Yea that's been my main reason for not investing in a lathe so far, the lathe itself is just the tip of the iceberg.
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Jan 4, 2016 18:05
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bimmian posted:Opinions on this lathe? http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/5377020143.html My tool budget is basically zero for the time being, but I really want to pick up a lathe. Assuming it runs nicely, that plus the included tools doesn't seem too bad for $110. Make sure it runs smooth with no bearing sounds, then talk him down and buy it. It's got everything you need to get started.
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Jan 4, 2016 19:30
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DevNull posted:Hey, another Seattle woodworking goon! What kind of work space do you have in the city? I am stuck in an apartment for now, so have a collapsible bench and just a few hand tools. We're actually up in Mountlake Terrace, so I was able to score a decent sized 2 car garage that already had a workbench built into it. I'm still working on getting things organized and really need a shed to kick the yard tools out of the garage. I'm mainly working with smaller tools like a portable table saw and 10" miter, but it does the trick for now.
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Jan 4, 2016 19:56
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Anyone here setup dust collection systems with a 1HP dust collector? I'm looking to reorganize my shop and finally get proper dust collection going. Im sick of lugging the DC or shop vac around and dealing with hoses on the floor. I did some googling however and it sounds like a 1HP just isn't enough for a dedicated system. However these were mostly tech like documents so I was wondering if anyone had hands on experience before I drop a bunch of cash on PVC. My shop is a single car garage. I think it's at most 16 feet long. I feel like im constantly battling a disorganized shop. I badly need to get more outlets installed, better dust collection, and more shelving made.
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Jan 4, 2016 20:11
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I got a 1HP off Craigslist and kinda regret it. It gets fine particles (I think) but overall it's collection capabilities are pretty lackluster. With a smaller tube I imagine it would work better, but with the 4" it has very little suction it's fine for something mobile but if I wanted something that was a whole system I'd probably go for at least 2hp
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Jan 4, 2016 20:39
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I notice something similar with mine as well with the suction. So maybe it's time for an upgrade.
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Jan 4, 2016 20:52
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bimmian posted:Opinions on this lathe? http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/5377020143.html My tool budget is basically zero for the time being, but I really want to pick up a lathe. Assuming it runs nicely, that plus the included tools doesn't seem too bad for $110. Go for it. I wouldn't feel bad at all giving him full price but offer a little less and see if he bites. Then buy yourself a cheap or free treadmill, tear it down and build a variable speed drive; that's what I did for the '58 Craftsman I used to own. page 11 http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4459.pdf BUGS OF SPRING posted:Anyone here setup dust collection systems with a 1HP dust collector? Mine is 1hp and fine if I move it from machine to machine, keeping the hose short but with a 20' hose it has only a fraction of the suction.
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Jan 4, 2016 20:55
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Anyone here setup dust collection systems with a 1HP dust collector? I know the feeling, and dust collection of a better sort quickly starts getting expensive. That's why I'm building mine from the ground up and taking the long route, I started last spring or so and it'll probably take another year before it's done as I'm just slowly cobbling together what I need as I find it. I was going to hoist the motor up on the stand I made for it (5hp motor I found for 20 bucks) tonight but I miscalculated how much a bolt stuck out of the winch mount and it binded up, so there I was with a 60lbs motor hanging about chest height and not sure what todo... Well I got it down safely.
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Jan 4, 2016 21:01
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Making your own is an interesting idea. I've watched Matthias videos on his small one. It looks doable but also like a lot of work. Getting a balanced impeller that doesn't draw too much power and kill the motor would make me nervous. A lot of trial and error to get that right. You're right about the parts adding up fast though. I was hoping to go clear PVC just so you can see any jams/issues. But it's pricey, and hard to find. Then blast gates and hoses and everything else.
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Jan 4, 2016 22:00
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Speaking of dust collectors, I'm planning on getting the usual HF 2hp collector, putting a thein baffle on a big trash can and either a Wynn 35a canister filter, or venting it outside. Any thoughts on if a ~10' run of 6" pipe on the exhaust is more or less restrictive than a big Wynn 35A filter? The exhaust on it is 4", but I can get 6 or 8" pvc for the same price as 4, so I might as well go larger for less restriction.
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Jan 4, 2016 23:06
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Falco posted:We're actually up in Mountlake Terrace, so I was able to score a decent sized 2 car garage that already had a workbench built into it. I'm still working on getting things organized and really need a shed to kick the yard tools out of the garage. I'm mainly working with smaller tools like a portable table saw and 10" miter, but it does the trick for now. Cool, I've got friends in Shoreline that I visit occasionally. Maybe I can unload some more tools on you soon  I am still working on cleaning up the rest of the planes I want to get rid of. The Anant is actually a #3 instead of #4 and it mostly sucks. I got it to make a fairly thin shaving but the depth adjustment is really tight even with the lever cap barely holding on. It seems like the cap iron has a lot more clamping force when it's installed, to the point of bending the blade. The Groz #4 is better than the Anant. I haven't looked at the Groz #5 yet. So far my feeling is that it's possible to get good results with the cheaper planes but it takes a lot more time adjusting things to get there compared to a Stanley.
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Jan 5, 2016 00:04
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I got a knife blank for Christmas, either it's this one or one a lot like it. Three screw rivets to hold it together. I made a practice run with some garbage wood I had lying around, and it went great. Everything lined up perfectly, shaping it was easy. And every damned time since then, I can't replicate it - there are six holes to drill that matter, and if any one of them's not aligned exactly right the screws won't line up. I did the first handle with a hand drill, just tracing where the holes go and drilling through them, but with the better wood (walnut) I've clamped the blanks to a drill press and still hosed it up - there's the littlest bit of give when the drill hits the wood, and so that's enough to throw off the holes. Is there some dumb and simple technique I should be using to drill these holes in exactly the right positions, or is this just something you get better at? It should not be this damned hard.
jackpot fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 02:23
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stick the two pieces of wood together with double sided tape and then drill once? use something like carpet tape, not the thick foam stuff
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Jan 5, 2016 02:36
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Cool, I've got friends in Shoreline that I visit occasionally. Maybe I can unload some more tools on you soon I'm in the U District, so really not that far off. I am in an apartment though, so I have to stick to hand tools until I can afford a place with a work space.
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Jan 5, 2016 02:44
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jackpot posted:there's the littlest bit of give when the drill hits the wood, and so that's enough to throw off the holes. Is there some dumb and simple technique I should be using to drill these holes in exactly the right positions, or is this just something you get better at? It should not be this damned hard. It's a typical problem and there are a couple of ways around it. First you can try using an awl or a nail to mark the holes and that tends to keep the bits from wandering. Or you can use center bits if you have them although I would still mark the holes with an awl. Center bits are short and only meant to drill out a starter hole for your drill bit to ride in so it can't deflect.
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Jan 5, 2016 08:26
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Making your own is an interesting idea. I've watched Matthias videos on his small one. It looks doable but also like a lot of work. Getting a balanced impeller that doesn't draw too much power and kill the motor would make me nervous. A lot of trial and error to get that right. The impeller is the difficult part to build if you scale it up, the one wandel made would be easier to build if you just follow the instructions and it should give you pretty good performance for it's size. But it wouldn't be for a stationary system, all that ducting would steal too much power. I walked across a container at the junk yard last night literally filled to the brim with what looked like cast aluminum impellers, straight blade material handling ones. Too bad they all had some insane bore diameter that looked to be 2" or bigger. The biggest ones could have been 14-15" diameter and just about the right size for a dust collector. Could have been bought for scrap value.
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Jan 5, 2016 09:02
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Hypnolobster posted:Speaking of dust collectors, I'm planning on getting the usual HF 2hp collector, putting a thein baffle on a big trash can and either a Wynn 35a canister filter, or venting it outside. Definitely go for 6", with only 2HP and the likely design of a HF impeller (straight vanes, inefficient) you can't afford to run 4" piping. I think the wynn filter is also more restrictive but that's only a hunch. Also remember that when you add a separator you loose like half your suction, the reason for a separator is to save your filters from clogging up so often. If you have the ability to vent outside (mild climate, no close neighbors who might complain) then I think you shouldn't even add a separator given the power it steals, just let all the material vent outside instead and have a oil drum or something the pipe empties into, no lid. I wouldn't add a separator myself but my impeller needs one since it's wood, and the design is like 3x more efficient than a straight vaned impeller so I am still ahead.
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Jan 5, 2016 09:23
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wormil posted:Go for it. I wouldn't feel bad at all giving him full price but offer a little less and see if he bites. Then buy yourself a cheap or free treadmill, tear it down and build a variable speed drive; that's what I did for the '58 Craftsman I used to own. I love old ads like that, thanks for digging that up. Going to look at it on Saturday, hopefully there will be wood chips flying everywhere shortly after.
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Jan 5, 2016 14:06
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jackpot posted:I got a knife blank for Christmas, either it's this one or one a lot like it. Glue one handle to one side. Let dry. Drill, starting with the metal holes in the blank. They'll be your guide. Drill all three. Flip it over, glue on the other handle on the other side. Let dry. Flip it back, now you've got three perfectly lined up holes in the first side.
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Jan 5, 2016 15:14
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His Divine Shadow posted:The impeller is the difficult part to build if you scale it up, the one wandel made would be easier to build if you just follow the instructions and it should give you pretty good performance for it's size. But it wouldn't be for a stationary system, all that ducting would steal too much power. Yeah I'm more interested in something stationary. I find myself slacking on dust collection out of laziness/hose annoyance and I know that's bad. I do wear a mask but It's still not the best and leads to more wasted time in the end cleaning. It's not so bad in the summer when I can leave the garage door open, but in the winter it's less ideal. Guess I'll troll craigslist and kijiji hoping to find something decent used, and try to work on my lovely habits.
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Jan 5, 2016 16:45
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Cool, I've got friends in Shoreline that I visit occasionally. Maybe I can unload some more tools on you soon Awesome, I may be down for that, especially at the prices you're letting the planes go for 
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Jan 5, 2016 17:23
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Hypnolobster posted:Speaking of dust collectors, I'm planning on getting the usual HF 2hp collector, putting a thein baffle on a big trash can and either a Wynn 35a canister filter, or venting it outside. Wynn doesn't appear to release pressure curves for their filters, and I don't see anyone that's posted one, so it's a bit of a guess. At the alleged 1550 CFM capacity, it's probably a wash between a clean Wynn filter and 10' of 6" duct. At a more realistic flow rates, the 6" duct definitely wins. However, that's assuming 6" pipe exhausts into the same space as the intake. When you're exhausting outside, you also have to consider the restriction for makeup air; if you don't have any allowance for that, the net pressure drop will be higher (how much higher depends on your structure).
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Jan 5, 2016 18:27
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Zhentar posted:Wynn doesn't appear to release pressure curves for their filters, and I don't see anyone that's posted one, so it's a bit of a guess. At the alleged 1550 CFM capacity, it's probably a wash between a clean Wynn filter and 10' of 6" duct. At a more realistic flow rates, the 6" duct definitely wins. His Divine Shadow posted:Definitely go for 6", with only 2HP and the likely design of a HF impeller (straight vanes, inefficient) you can't afford to run 4" piping. I don't have room for dust collection outside, so if it's vented outside it'll have to be relatively clean (at this point I'm thinking cyclone over thien baffle after looking deeper into efficiency). As for makeup air, it's a 4000 sq.ft. 1970's house, so it's got more than enough volume, and plenty of leaks for the ~500-800cmf the HF dust collector can actually manage. My priority is high CFM and minimal footprint. I can wallmount the blower, drop it down into the cyclone and drop everything into a plastic drum and vent it outside with about a 8' run with one sweep 90 bend. The alternative is the wynn filter, but it doubles the footprint and cost, but I won't be sucking air out of a heated or cooled house.
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Jan 6, 2016 01:35
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Looking to build a simple radiator shelf to put on a (functional) radiator so my cats can look out the window. Just something simple like this: Basically just a piece of wood sitting on the radiator, with some trim on the edge to keep it from sliding off. The radiator doesn't put off steam so the wood would stay dry, I'm just wondering if there's any types of woods that would be better or worse for something that probably gets close to boiling temperature. I think my plan is just to get a 1x8 in a hard wood at Menards, so I've got a few choices besides oak, but not super exotic. I'll probably stain it since the trim is stained wood. Would maple or birch work for this?
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Jan 6, 2016 07:20
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Skil Router 1817: http://www.amazon.com/SKIL-1817-120V-Fixed-Router/dp/B004SKY6W6 I found this on sale at Lowe's for $58 bucks and didn't get it. Did I make a terrible mistake?
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Jan 6, 2016 19:37
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Skil Router 1817: Probably not.
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Jan 6, 2016 20:16
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wormil posted:It's a typical problem and there are a couple of ways around it. First you can try using an awl or a nail to mark the holes and that tends to keep the bits from wandering. Or you can use center bits if you have them although I would still mark the holes with an awl. Center bits are short and only meant to drill out a starter hole for your drill bit to ride in so it can't deflect. When it came to the counterbores for the screws there was nothing to be done but just eyeball them and go very, very slowly, but it worked. Now the fun part: 
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Jan 7, 2016 15:27
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The strangest thing happened yesterday, I crossed something off 'The List'. Having a sled sure is handy. Nothing fancy, though I do have a short length of t-track I may try to put in for a clamp. 
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Jan 7, 2016 16:10
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Building a firebowl stand out of some leftover walnut from another project. Will be outdoors 24/7. What's the best thing to finish it with? I've only ever done shellac and poly.
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Jan 7, 2016 20:24
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bobua posted:Building a firebowl stand out of some leftover walnut from another project. Will be outdoors 24/7. What's the best thing to finish it with? I've only ever done shellac and poly. I don't know what a firebowl but walnut is rot resistant. If you use a film finish it'll need to be refinished every few years so I would consider a deck oil.
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Jan 8, 2016 01:30
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If I were back in Seattle, I would definitely be hitting you up for a number 4. In the meantime I've been lugging a stanley no. 8 from Michigan, to Costa Rica, then back to Finland. I also got a nice crosscut panel saw, some saw sets and files, and a half hatchet. The US is the promised land for old tools. I've been using the hatchet to open coconuts. Multitasker supreme.
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Jan 8, 2016 02:03
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Holy hell, Grizzly customer service is spectacular. The motor died in my saw and after I figured out what died (start windings, I think. caps were fine), I gave them a call and after about 2 minutes on the phone, they had it shipped 3 day UPS.
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Jan 8, 2016 05:17
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If you're like me I'd save that motor and try and see if I could get it to work. I got a shelf with 5-6 induction motors of varying speeds and HP by now. Just incase...
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Jan 8, 2016 10:38
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bimmian posted:The strangest thing happened yesterday, I crossed something off 'The List'. Having a sled sure is handy. Nothing fancy, though I do have a short length of t-track I may try to put in for a clamp. Nice work, I don't know if you've seen this video, but it's sure is handy for squaring up a sled: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ I recommend his channel in general, doesn't put out a lot but what he does show is usually quality work.
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Jan 8, 2016 10:40
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