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bimmian posted:You'll want something like this- link Also, if you're not up to soldering, they do sell snap on clips that allow you to attach wires to the LED strips without having to solder anything. You can then use some crimp connectors to complete the wiring. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B98ZUBG?psc=1 Also, if you want to get fancy, they do sell aluminum extrusion with diffuser panels to put the LED strips in. http://www.amazon.com/3-3ft-U-Shape-Aluminum-Channel-Extrusion/dp/B00F9Q602M
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Jan 12, 2016 18:32
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 I can't imagine someone who's scared of soldering but doesn't mind powertools. I'm pretty gung-ho about electronic, saws scare the hell out of me.
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Jan 12, 2016 18:59
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Soldering requires fine dexterity while most power tools can be entirely operated with only gross dexterity. It would not be strange to be physically unable to solder while easily operating a table saw (other than perhaps changing blades).
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Jan 12, 2016 21:50
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My first attempt at making anything more complex than a square. I've checked all of these with a bevel gauge as well as just lining them up together and making sure they are all identical. I've also just taken 3 at a time and a large square and tried to get the outer 2 to be perfectly perpendicular. Any ideas or suggestions? http://imgur.com/a/SR64y 
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Jan 13, 2016 01:17
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bobua posted:My first attempt at making anything more complex than a square. I've checked all of these with a bevel gauge as well as just lining them up together and making sure they are all identical. I've also just taken 3 at a time and a large square and tried to get the outer 2 to be perfectly perpendicular. Any ideas or suggestions? Measuring is the enemy of precision. Fudge it so each opposing pair was more or less parallel and then file/sand the edges until there are no gaps. Even cutting those out on a cnc router would give you some mismatch.
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Jan 13, 2016 01:27
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Yeah, don't forget that if you're off by, say, half a degree on each corner, that's going to be 4° by the end of the loop, and that's like, 12' of boards if those are 1' squares they're sitting on? 4° over 12' is going to be a big discrepancy. It'll never be perfect, so instead aim for it to be close enough you can't tell and to just get everything to join up nicely.
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Jan 13, 2016 01:32
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oxbrain posted:Measuring is the enemy of precision. Fudge it so each opposing pair was more or less parallel and then file/sand the edges until there are no gaps. drat it. I sort of read the same thing on a google search just now. I assumed it was collusion between my stock miter gauge, no-name chop saw, and dollar store protractor so I had ordered a nice Incra replacement. 
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Jan 13, 2016 01:36
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, don't forget that if you're off by, say, half a degree on each corner, that's going to be 4° by the end of the loop, and that's like, 12' of boards if those are 1' squares they're sitting on? 4° over 12' is going to be a big discrepancy. It'll never be perfect, so instead aim for it to be close enough you can't tell and to just get everything to join up nicely. Going off that, you can always cut more, so I'd aim for all your angles to be slightly too oblique and then sand to fit. If you've got gaps right now, you could get away with making one slightly oblique replacement edge (or two opposite ones) to fill up the mismatch
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Jan 13, 2016 01:37
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What if I glued up each joint separately, then bent the whole thing a bit (and sanded the last connection) to get matches?
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Jan 13, 2016 02:37
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I had a bitch of a time getting that right too, I first joined up pairs, then pairs to pairs, then the two halves. Turned out alright I thought, then winter came and the middle boards started moving and getting out of alignment, had to take it inside. Also was getting black spots on it right through the varnish. I dunno those chairs are the only ones without any such problems and they're outside and getting snowed on, was there some special ingredient in that tinted oil finish?
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Jan 13, 2016 08:39
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I was able to fix it by taking a degree off each side of just 2 parallel boards. Lined up perfectly. Unfortunately, I have to get an 'inner' octagon to line up the same way, while lining up with holes I've drilled in the outer for copper bars that will connect them inside. Going to be ridiculously tedious. Definitely bit off a bit more than I could chew with this design, especially since I've committed some really nice hard wood to the project:(
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Jan 13, 2016 18:57
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, don't forget that if you're off by, say, half a degree on each corner, that's going to be 4° by the end of the loop, and that's like, 12' of boards if those are 1' squares they're sitting on? 4° over 12' is going to be a big discrepancy. It'll never be perfect, so instead aim for it to be close enough you can't tell and to just get everything to join up nicely. If you have a long enough bit of definitely-flat material (maybe a table saw bed or a bit of melamine), set out a bit of sandpaper at either end such that you can glue it up in halves, and take the halves over to the long flat thing and sand both ends at the same time so they're definitely parallel. You'll probably also need to se up some form of fence to keep them perpendicular. Sort of like Frank Howarth always does with his segmented ring glue ups, only I'm assuming you don't have a 3 foot diameter disc sander. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY0gdrIHIvo
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Jan 13, 2016 19:07
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If you don't have a long flat thing, maybe spray glue some sandpaper to a long level? Even if you just use it to check that the surfaces are coplanar, it's better than eyeballing it.
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Jan 14, 2016 00:00
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So I just got my eBay purchased ww2 era Stanley no3 only to discover that even with a 3 finger grip, my monkey hands do not fit without my knuckles scraping the depth adjuster knob God dammit
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Jan 14, 2016 03:31
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Some jackass in our local WW club posted that it was reported on FB that Matthias Wandel had suddenly passed away earlier today. His post seemed really sincere, not to mention he's an old timer not prone to practical jokes. Que a mad scramble by me searching FB and the internet in general for confirmation only to check back and find the post deleted.  I'm guessing he was the victim of a practical joke and like a lot of people, didn't bother to confirm what he was told before spreading it around. Gave me a bit of a worry though.
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Jan 14, 2016 05:38
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I'm thinking of buying a tap for my lathe, a 7/8 x 16 TPI LH thread to be exact. The idea I got is I'll tap wooden bits and pieces and screw them onto my lathe spindle and turn things like wooden face plates and whatnot that I can fasten whatever stuff I might want or need for cheap. My lathe also has weird thread size, though I have an adapter to the more common 3/4x16 tpi. Still be nice to not need it as often. Does this sound like a nutso idea?
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Jan 14, 2016 13:33
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm thinking of buying a tap for my lathe, a 7/8 x 16 TPI LH thread to be exact. The idea I got is I'll tap wooden bits and pieces and screw them onto my lathe spindle and turn things like wooden face plates and whatnot that I can fasten whatever stuff I might want or need for cheap. My lathe also has weird thread size, though I have an adapter to the more common 3/4x16 tpi. Still be nice to not need it as often. We're here to encourage nutso ideas with woodworking, so hell yeah.
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Jan 14, 2016 16:47
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His Divine Shadow posted:7/8 x 16 TPI LH A left hand thread on a lathe headstock? Does it have a locking mechanism?
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Jan 14, 2016 20:37
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No just a brain fart I hadn't caught. Probably conflated it with table saw arbors or something.
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Jan 14, 2016 20:59
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Fyi, the Porter Cable Forstner bit set is 42.99 today. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004TSZEB4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 edit; Wasn't there a reply to my post, something about made in China? wormil fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Jan 16, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 19:08
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Used Gorilla Glue epoxy to attach knife blanks to the tang, then clamped the poo poo out of it and let it sit overnight. A few days later, I've got a gap. Not a big one, but I hate it and I worry about it getting bigger. The kit comes with this kind of screw set, and it was a horrible pain in the rear end to use so what I did was just insert the long female pin in through one handle, through the tang, and into (but not through the other handle). So there's no male screw pulling it all together - the epoxy is doing all the work. And yes, the gap is happening in the side where the pin only goes halfway through. Is that where I went wrong, do I just have to use pins that go all the way through next time? I cleaned/sanded everything before gluing it, did everything the bottle said to.
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Jan 15, 2016 20:21
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Anyone ever try locking miter router bits? I have a couple and can get it set up, but either the bits I have are lovely or they absolutely wreck things because they really tear the wood out no matter how slow I go. I was going to use it for a bunch of fast drawers but maybe ill finally learn to dovetail instead.
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Jan 16, 2016 23:42
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Been sitting on these plans for a good while now and decided I had to stop putting it off, I could really use box-joints a lot of the time I am doing something.  I don't have a guide bar, I am planning to attach it to the sliding table instead. There's a threaded hole in the aluminum part of the table that I think will make for a suitable anchoring point. 
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Jan 16, 2016 23:49
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Sylink posted:Anyone ever try locking miter router bits? I have a couple and can get it set up, but either the bits I have are lovely or they absolutely wreck things because they really tear the wood out no matter how slow I go. No matter how slow you move the workpiece or how slow you set the router speed?
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Jan 17, 2016 01:24
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Both really, the slower router speed helps a little bit but it still shreds things.
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Jan 17, 2016 01:55
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Those things are stopgaps for people who are too scared to use a handsaw or too lazy to make a box joint jig for their table saw. Just learn to dovetail. It's way more peaceful than a screaming router anyhow.
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Jan 17, 2016 03:04
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Anyone have any recommendations for DIY plans for a box joint jig for router tables? My googling has turned up a few rather frustratingly vague how-tos and a lot of commercial products. Doesn't have to be super-fancy, just accurate.
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Jan 17, 2016 03:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Anyone have any recommendations for DIY plans for a box joint jig for router tables? My googling has turned up a few rather frustratingly vague how-tos and a lot of commercial products. Doesn't have to be super-fancy, just accurate. http://www.ibuildit.ca/Sales/sales-9.html http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Jigs/ultimate-box-joint-jig-1.html Looks fancy, but it's really quite simple. Just about every single box joint jig will adapt to a router table easily.
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Jan 17, 2016 03:38
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Sylink posted:Both really, the slower router speed helps a little bit but it still shreds things. I've got the locking miter shaper bit that I only used for one project years ago, either plywood or mdf.... it's really not a good concept for joining actual lumber, and I'd think a router version would be far worse than a shaper.
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Jan 17, 2016 03:50
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Hypnolobster posted:The John Heisz Ultimate Box Joint jig will work on a router table. That looks somewhat crazy-complicated. I'd have to do some adaptations to it; at bare minimum my router table only has one track. D'you think it plausible to try to build the thing just based on the visual guide, rather than the plans? I mean, $12 is $12...
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Jan 17, 2016 04:17
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Mr. Mambold posted:I've got the locking miter shaper bit that I only used for one project years ago, either plywood or mdf.... it's really not a good concept for joining actual lumber, and I'd think a router version would be far worse than a shaper. Yah, I'm thinking this would be better on plywood, and I used it once already for some plywood and it did work quite easily. Hardwood just weaponizes it.
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Jan 17, 2016 04:48
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Are you using a zero clearance fence?
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Jan 17, 2016 04:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That looks somewhat crazy-complicated. I'd have to do some adaptations to it; at bare minimum my router table only has one track. D'you think it plausible to try to build the thing just based on the visual guide, rather than the plans? I mean, $12 is $12... If it seems crazy complicated then trying to make it without plans is probably a bad idea. I have a set of John Heisz plans and they are super detailed and worth every penny. But, the jigs for router tables are basically the same as jigs for dado sets. You can make a simple one designed for one size bit and be done with it.
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Jan 17, 2016 06:54
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This is the simplest jig I found, I made it but my straight bits just made the thing tear out and entire teeth on the work piece broke off. So a good quality spiral but is recommended. This is why I made the screw advance box joint jig. http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html
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Jan 17, 2016 10:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Anyone have any recommendations for DIY plans for a box joint jig for router tables? My googling has turned up a few rather frustratingly vague how-tos and a lot of commercial products. Doesn't have to be super-fancy, just accurate. Look up the Ed Stiles box joint jig on YouTube. It's for a table saw but there is no reason you couldn't use it on a router. I have built several different box joint jigs over the years and Eds is the best I've found. So extremely versatile. It may lookcomplicated to build, but it really isn't. And the plans are free. Edit: http://youtu.be/JYxDXHGRRrk
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Jan 17, 2016 15:20
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wormil posted:If it seems crazy complicated then trying to make it without plans is probably a bad idea. I have a set of John Heisz plans and they are super detailed and worth every penny. Okay, thanks. Guess I'd better recalibrate my expectations a bit. mds2 posted:Look up the Ed Stiles box joint jig on YouTube. It's for a table saw but there is no reason you couldn't use it on a router. Thanks, will check out!
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Jan 17, 2016 16:18
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When I was a Baby Woodworker I had zero luck trying to make a box joint jig. I bought an Incra iBox instead, which can be used on a table saw or router table. It works very well and is super well built. I'm sure I could build a good jig now, but I still use the iBox most of the time. If you have more money than time and want something that works right now, it's worth a look.
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Jan 17, 2016 18:52
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So I finished the design of my closet shelves. I am going to be building this in place and am trying to keep things fairly simple. Both sides of the closet are wood, the back is cinder block (exterior wall). My thought is to build the base and screw down to the floor as well as the two sides. For the shelves, my plan is to drill holes through the walls, then put the shelf in place, drill back through the holes into the shelves, then screw the shelf into place. The sides will then be glued down to the shelf, and each shelf will be nailed down to the sides below it. Since this is just holding clothes, I assume this should not be a problem for structural integrity, but wanted to double check with the experts. I would rather not use rabbets or dados for the siding because I do not believe the walls are entirely square so I ill probably be using the banding to hide some gaps.
jvick fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 19:15
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The end is in sight for my secretary desk...well still quite a bit of details to work on, but I feel like I'm definitely in the home stretch as all the main case joinery is done.
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Jan 17, 2016 22:22
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mds2 posted:Look up the Ed Stiles box joint jig on YouTube. It's for a table saw but there is no reason you couldn't use it on a router. Having had the time to watch this video, it looks quite nice. The plans are well-put-together too. I especially like the cam he added to the threaded rod so he always gets a consistent number of turns. Assembling my own version will be a project of its own, but what am I going to do, not make box joints?
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Jan 18, 2016 01:12
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