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Ensign Expendable is your go to guy for Zvezda stuff, he's got a whole bunch of kits posted across the length of the thread iirc
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Jan 25, 2016 13:18
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sparatuvs posted:I just picked this up No experience with particular kit, but new Zvezda planes are usually good to great. Avoid older kits, I have old Zvezda Su-37 and it's incredibly bad. Check out Scalemates for reviews, or at least look at release year.
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Jan 25, 2016 13:24
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sparatuvs posted:I just picked this up It's literally the best third generation MiG-21 kit you can get and mine went together like a charm until I fouled up the canopy  In general modern Zvesda kits are outstanding value for money, and usually the best renditions of Russian/Soviet stuff.
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Jan 25, 2016 14:10
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sparatuvs posted:I just picked this up I haven't built a Zvezda plane since the mid-90s, but I built a fair bit of their other kits. The early stuff is crap, tons of flash, lots of cleanup to do. Mediocre detail then, actually worse now that the tooling wore down. The more recent stuff is much better, I'm very impressed with their figures. I'm building a Zvezda T-72 right now, and it's pretty good quality, but clearly a "budget" kit. No interior aside from insides of the hatches, gun doesn't move, tracks are in lengths instead of individual links, but the detail is crisp and my only real complaint is that the barrel still comes in two halves and needs sanding. Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 14:46
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Read back a poo poo load of pages just to see peoples cool models and saw those amazing hi-mock gundam models. Couldn't help picking one up because £8 from Japan with free shipping was too good to pass up 
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Jan 25, 2016 16:50
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Nice, it's an incredibly high quality kit with a ton of parts for how little it costs.
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Jan 25, 2016 16:55
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Speaking of Mig21 models. What it with quite a bit of the ones that I have seen, especially the Revell one, having a nose cone that is very far back in the fuselage?
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Jan 25, 2016 17:31
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A question, thread: when did the Airfix revival begin? When it was bought by Heller or by Hornby?
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Jan 25, 2016 17:36
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It took me about a year to get trains looping on my last layout, managed to pull it off in about a month on this one! Of course this one's a basic flat loop. But still, I can loop trains! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mNbpfTv3RI
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Jan 25, 2016 18:27
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jadebullet posted:Speaking of Mig21 models. What it with quite a bit of the ones that I have seen, especially the Revell one, having a nose cone that is very far back in the fuselage? There were three generations of MiG-21. The first generation were day interceptors with only a simple gunnery ranging radar. The second generation and onward were full fledged all-weather interceptors, so they had more sophisticated fire control systems which necessitated a larger shock cone for the new radar. The Revell one is a MiG-21F-13, which was the last first generation Fishbed variant.
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Jan 25, 2016 19:37
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Nebakenezzer posted:A question, thread: when did the Airfix revival begin? When it was bought by Heller or by Hornby? Hornby. I think there were a couple of kits planned or released towards the end of the pre-Hornby era (TSR2, Canberra, Nimrod), but it's only really since the takeover that they've been regularly releasing new toolings with the expected standard of engraved panel lines and detailed cockpits.
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Jan 25, 2016 20:27
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Forums Terrorist posted:There were three generations of MiG-21. The first generation were day interceptors with only a simple gunnery ranging radar. The second generation and onward were full fledged all-weather interceptors, so they had more sophisticated fire control systems which necessitated a larger shock cone for the new radar. The Revell one is a MiG-21F-13, which was the last first generation Fishbed variant. Oh. I never knew that. I am just so used to the large cone version. I guess I wont have to just ignore those variants then.
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Jan 25, 2016 22:16
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Some updates I guess. HMS Victory Cross Section is now half done. Orlop just needs some more sea chests and buttresses, then the pumps can go in.  HMS Hood has finished the 2nd month of her projected 35 month build and is actually starting to resemble a ship in places. She is now a meter long and at about 3/4th of her final length, The stern will be built up next.  The metal steam engine has got her boiler and some more details on the smoke box door including a LED lamp and working lock. To open it one must crank the tiny handle. This is just loosely put upon the undercarriage yet. There's not yet all supports in, which is why it looks a bit wonky. The firebox will go on next. 
Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jan 26, 2016 |
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Jan 26, 2016 00:46
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So, this one goes out to all the ship modelers out there. How do you guys mask large scale camo patterns like dazzle camo on very uneven surfaces, like conning towers with lots of decks or funnels? do you mask and spray the whole ship at once, or break it down into subassemblies? and how do you get around accidentally spraying the deck? do you paint all the deck areas and mask them, or just try to angle the airbrush away from those decks?
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Jan 27, 2016 01:41
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Help me, thread! I bought a Revell Kaytusha a while ago, and during the assembly process discovered it had no tires. Sadly, this was after I put on the rims. I recently got Hussar resin (at least I assume it's resin) wheels, and my all purpose Krazy Glue that I usually use doesn't seem to hold, even after I held the wheels in place with Silly Putty. There's no nub at the end of the axle to attach them to, either, since I had to snip that off with the stock rims. How can I get the new wheels to stick?
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Jan 27, 2016 04:39
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COOL CORN posted:I decided to go with this set as a baby's-first-airbrush. I bought a compressor with an air tank and one of their airbrushes a while back. The compressor works pretty well but the airbrush was complete junk. I tried all 3 needles and various tweaks and I could not get a consistent spray pattern without sputter. I ended up springing for a good Iwata airbrush and it works flawlessly.
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Jan 27, 2016 05:09
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Triggerhappypilot posted:So, this one goes out to all the ship modelers out there. How do you guys mask large scale camo patterns like dazzle camo on very uneven surfaces, like conning towers with lots of decks or funnels? do you mask and spray the whole ship at once, or break it down into subassemblies? and how do you get around accidentally spraying the deck? do you paint all the deck areas and mask them, or just try to angle the airbrush away from those decks? I have no idea what you are talking about. Ships don't have camouflage, they are wood, with cannons and sails. 
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Jan 27, 2016 05:10
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Ensign Expendable posted:Help me, thread! I bought a Revell Kaytusha a while ago, and during the assembly process discovered it had no tires. Sadly, this was after I put on the rims. I recently got Hussar resin (at least I assume it's resin) wheels, and my all purpose Krazy Glue that I usually use doesn't seem to hold, even after I held the wheels in place with Silly Putty. There's no nub at the end of the axle to attach them to, either, since I had to snip that off with the stock rims. How can I get the new wheels to stick? Drill a hole in the axle, glue in a piece of proper diameter brass rod, trim to length as necessary. Voila, you have a new nub on the end of the axle to glue to.
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Jan 27, 2016 05:24
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kaosAG posted:Drill a hole in the axle, glue in a piece of proper diameter brass rod, trim to length as necessary. Voila, you have a new nub on the end of the axle to glue to. This, and make sure you clean the resin, mold release agents etc will mess up the adhesion of CA. For a extra strong grip score the resin and the brass with a knife.
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Jan 27, 2016 06:26
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kaosAG posted:Drill a hole in the axle, glue in a piece of proper diameter brass rod, trim to length as necessary. Voila, you have a new nub on the end of the axle to glue to. If you are a cheap bastard like me, you might even use some stuff lying around the house. I've successfully used the metal from cheap clothes hangers and inexpensive hanging wire for picture frames to pin stuff for models.
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Jan 27, 2016 06:55
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Triggerhappypilot posted:So, this one goes out to all the ship modelers out there. How do you guys mask large scale camo patterns like dazzle camo on very uneven surfaces, like conning towers with lots of decks or funnels? do you mask and spray the whole ship at once, or break it down into subassemblies? and how do you get around accidentally spraying the deck? do you paint all the deck areas and mask them, or just try to angle the airbrush away from those decks? All I can figure is leave it as subassemblies (sans deck) until you're ready to airbrush. Masking tape is all that works as it lets you go around all sorts of greeblies, and if you spray from the tape side you'll get away without having a perfectly good seal against the surface. Eye balling the lines from the hull onto the superstructure isn't that bad. The different depths means you rarely see it perfectly side-on so slight irregularities aren't easily noticeable. I'm sure there's better methods, but  Also avoid really complicated dazzle/splotchy patterns as gently caress that.
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Jan 27, 2016 09:41
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Triggerhappypilot posted:So, this one goes out to all the ship modelers out there. How do you guys mask large scale camo patterns like dazzle camo on very uneven surfaces, like conning towers with lots of decks or funnels? do you mask and spray the whole ship at once, or break it down into subassemblies? and how do you get around accidentally spraying the deck? do you paint all the deck areas and mask them, or just try to angle the airbrush away from those decks? The correct answer is to not build ships that have camo patterns on above deck structures
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Jan 27, 2016 09:57
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The Locator posted:I have no idea what you are talking about. Ships don't have camouflage, they are wood, with cannons and sails. Except that time HMS Surprise camouflaged itself like a whaling ship. Or all those merchant vessels who painted fake cannon ports on themselves.
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Jan 27, 2016 14:13
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kaosAG posted:Drill a hole in the axle, glue in a piece of proper diameter brass rod, trim to length as necessary. Voila, you have a new nub on the end of the axle to glue to. Good idea, I'll try that.
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Jan 27, 2016 14:56
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Nostalgia4Ass posted:If you are a cheap bastard like me, you might even use some stuff lying around the house. I've successfully used the metal from cheap clothes hangers and inexpensive hanging wire for picture frames to pin stuff for models.
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Jan 27, 2016 16:18
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Colonial Air Force posted:Except that time HMS Surprise camouflaged itself like a whaling ship. Fair points, but I wouldn't really call that camouflage so much as misdirection. They aren't trying to hide or make the ship harder to actually spot, they are trying to fool the observer into thinking that they are something different, either to lure people in close (Surprise) or to scare off would be attackers (fake gun ports). Also, I was just trying to be a funny jerk since I have no idea how people get amazingly good splinter camo on more modern ship superstructures.
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Jan 27, 2016 17:09
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The Locator posted:Fair points, but I wouldn't really call that camouflage so much as misdirection. They aren't trying to hide or make the ship harder to actually spot, they are trying to fool the observer into thinking that they are something different, either to lure people in close (Surprise) or to scare off would be attackers (fake gun ports). You made me look something up: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_camouflage#Early_use Apparently the Romans did actually use camouflage on their ships.
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Jan 27, 2016 23:12
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Colonial Air Force posted:You made me look something up: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_camouflage#Early_use Cool, I did not know that.
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Jan 27, 2016 23:47
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Got my new airbrush and put some acrylic thinned with water through it. Not uh... not great. Went onto the model (un-primed, just testing) like rain on a windshield, just kind of running in rivulets. Maybe I was holding it too close? Thinned to much? PSI too high? I was running around 30. Should I not use water as a thinner in the airbrush? I'll probably pick up some Tamiya thinner in the next day or two.
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Jan 28, 2016 01:04
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Sounds like a combo of all of those. The paint should be thinned to the consistency of milk. Shoot from about 6 inches away, at 15-20 psi. Very light coats as well. Make sure the model is clean as well, and not covered in mold-release agent.
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Jan 28, 2016 01:22
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COOL CORN posted:Got my new airbrush and put some acrylic thinned with water through it. Not uh... not great. Went onto the model (un-primed, just testing) like rain on a windshield, just kind of running in rivulets. Maybe I was holding it too close? Thinned to much? PSI too high? I was running around 30. Sounds too thin. I usually shoot Tamiya acrylics thinned with water at 45ish with no problems.
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Jan 28, 2016 01:23
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sparatuvs posted:I just picked this up That one is on my list. I've read it's the only mig21bis in that scale to get the shape right.
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Jan 28, 2016 06:45
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Well, a few months back I decided to get into scale modelling. So I bought a kid and some junk, and made a lot of mistakes, and then I remembered that SA has a thread for everything, and I've been lurking here and made a lot less mistakes. Please excuse the crap photos, and welcome to Airbase My Kitchen Table, with that Monogram F-4C kit that you've seen everywhere. Right now I'm working on an Eduard Mig-21 kit, which I'm going to do up in VNAF camo, and it's a night and day improvement in quality. I'd say my biggest mistakes were using Testor's glue (got some good Tamiya stuff now) and crap quality brushes. And I learned a lot of stuff about how not to prime, seal gaps, paint, mask, put on decals, etc. So the next one will be better, in a month or two, and I'm looking forward to joining in the next crap build.   
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Jan 28, 2016 07:53
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Biffmotron posted:Well, a few months back I decided to get into scale modelling. So I bought a kid and some junk, and made a lot of mistakes, and then I remembered that SA has a thread for everything, and I've been lurking here and made a lot less mistakes. Please excuse the crap photos, and welcome to Airbase My Kitchen Table, with that Monogram F-4C kit that you've seen everywhere. Right now I'm working on an Eduard Mig-21 kit, which I'm going to do up in VNAF camo, and it's a night and day improvement in quality. You've already got something down that I still struggle with and that's tempering unrealistic expectations of how your model is going to turn out. I make mistakes and shelf the kit out of frustration. My unfinished kit to built ratio is probably 10 to 1. Great job on the build. It looks like you are starting with a strong grasp of the fundamentals. Time and experience will help you refine things.
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Jan 28, 2016 09:25
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Biffmotron posted:Well, a few months back I decided to get into scale modelling. So I bought a kid and some junk  Look, you gotta do the kit yourself. Its not a hobby if you're just gonna lock some kidnapped child in the basement and make them assemble it for you.
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Jan 28, 2016 09:53
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Biffmotron posted:stuff Looking very good! In other news, Trumpeter announced a Type VII Uboat at the Nurmberg Toy Fair... In 1/48.... With full interior.... Who wants to buy one of my kidneys? Only slightly worn from use, but still great value! e: pics http://www.primeportal.net/models/nuremberg_2016.htm Molentik fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 11:02
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Biffmotron posted:Well, a few months back I decided to get into scale modelling. So I bought a kid and some junk, and made a lot of mistakes, and then I remembered that SA has a thread for everything, and I've been lurking here and made a lot less mistakes. Please excuse the crap photos, and welcome to Airbase My Kitchen Table, with that Monogram F-4C kit that you've seen everywhere. Right now I'm working on an Eduard Mig-21 kit, which I'm going to do up in VNAF camo, and it's a night and day improvement in quality. The kid did a pretty good job, but I suggest doing your next kit independently.
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Jan 28, 2016 14:54
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Molentik posted:In other news, Trumpeter announced a Type VII Uboat at the Nurmberg Toy Fair... 
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Jan 28, 2016 16:06
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This Bronco Valentine suspension is loving boss. Shame the spring is plastic and not metal so it's a massive pain in the rear end to get off the sprue without breaking.
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Jan 28, 2016 16:12
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Ensign Expendable posted:This Bronco Valentine suspension is loving boss. Awesome! Maybe you can make the springs in metal by wrapping some iron wire over a screw?
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Jan 28, 2016 16:26
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