|
Honestly, having worked with a bunch of old gunpla kits thanks to my Gundam X boner, I feel like all those old HG 1/100s aren't that bad. Articulation is basically non-existent, but they can all pull off standing there pretty well. You need a much different skillset compared to modern kits (less pieces so not as much cutting/sanding, but way more seams so more welding, panel line scribing, and masking), which can be a real breath of fresh air. They're usually pretty cheap too, barring the super old stuff. And they usually tend to be a lot closer to the original lineart, which is a plus if you're not a fan of MG redesigns. I usually am though, so I could care less.
|
# ? Feb 8, 2016 06:29 |
|
|
# ? May 27, 2024 03:47 |
|
How necessary does everyone feel the gloss coat pre stickers really is? I've never done it and all my stickers are fine, though I do use micro sol.
|
# ? Feb 8, 2016 06:35 |
|
Yawgmoft posted:How necessary does everyone feel the gloss coat pre stickers really is? I've never done it and all my stickers are fine, though I do use micro sol. I'm kind of surprised Micro Sol does anything for stickers, given how thick their backings usually are. Never tried it myself, only used it on waterslides.
|
# ? Feb 8, 2016 07:05 |
|
Sorry I just use stickers as a catchall. I mean for waterslides I use micro sol and for stickers I use nothing as I haven't done normal stickers yet.
|
# ? Feb 8, 2016 19:02 |
boom boom boom posted:Robot Damashii proportions are bad, IMO. the littl skinny torsos all the RD gundams have look silly CURVY IS BEAUTIFUL edit: don't delete my Kapool that's censorship Meanwhile I've been going totally nuts over stripping parts. Skip the Simple Green and Purple Power, DOT3 brake fluid takes off everything wonderfully. All for finishes like this. Auto-Air candy paint over Alclad chrome. Holy poo poo, this stuff is crazy good. MJP fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Feb 9, 2016 |
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 00:03 |
|
Last Friday I went to scale modeller group in my small city. It was my first time being there. There was bunch of fifty to forty year old dudes and a couple of other guys in their thirties. They could obsessively talk about every single aspect of their model . Some guys even purposely misaligned sights on their 1/35(?) figures, in order to match how some rifles given to this one Canadian division were misaligned. I sat there with my Turn a pretty much said " this is the turn a gundam,1/100 scale, good kit, I preshaded it to make the detail pop out more. I like the design." I thought I was obsessive with my mecha addiction but holy poo poo
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 00:11 |
|
MJP posted:\ Is the first image here gone for everyone or just me?
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 00:14 |
|
It's gone for me too.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 00:19 |
|
I bought my first RG today. I got myeslf the MK II A.E.U.G. because I kept reading how that was one of the better RG kits. Lets just hope my large hands don't break everything. Also I noticed it comes with a tiny tiny little pilot, is there any advice on how to paint that guy or is it even worth it with how small he is.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 01:21 |
That's weird, it's fine for me. It's just a Kapool flipping off boom boom boom for insinuating that skinny Robot Damashiis are the standard of beauty #amphibiouslivesmatter
|
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 02:06 |
|
MJP posted:
How do you plan on painting the pauldron lines. I assume you intend on using masking fluid and a scalpel or exacto to draw the contours.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 02:15 |
Ka0 posted:How do you plan on painting the pauldron lines. I assume you intend on using masking fluid and a scalpel or exacto to draw the contours. I intend to cheat. I'm gonna make copies of the decal sheet and cut frisket film, then use that as masking. Although I might just handbrush them - I can mix up the orange with Vallejo and use their metallic medium to make it shiny. But I could always just do the masking, then do 'em up with the same candy coating process. I'll figure it out when I get there. Also my pissed-off Kapool got deleted, fascist Imgur is fascist
|
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 02:42 |
|
Or maybe imgurians found the image too "problematic".
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 02:47 |
|
Someone asked to see my little group of HGs. I am a filthy casual who doesn't really know anything about gundam. Which one should I do next?
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 02:58 |
|
PaintVagrant posted:Which one should I do next? The Graze is the most fun to build out of the three.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 03:04 |
|
Good thing they've made so many Graze's then.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 04:03 |
|
When Alclad'ing is their black primer good enough for a base or do I need their gloss black?
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 04:11 |
|
PaintVagrant posted:Someone asked to see my little group of HGs. I am a filthy casual who doesn't really know anything about gundam. who is glowy greenman in the back right?
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 04:32 |
|
portent gundam from build fighters tri
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 04:39 |
Its far less interesting than it looks
|
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 04:50 |
|
EthanSteele posted:When Alclad'ing is their black primer good enough for a base or do I need their gloss black? DO NOT BUY ALCLAD GLOSS BLACK it is faulty and the mix is poorly diluted, anything you coat it over with will crack regardless of weather, curing time, zodiac station ,etc. Use any black primer that is good, including; surfacer EVO black gloss, any gloss enamel, mr. hobby ueno gloss black, hell Alclad makes one called "Black Primer & Microfiller" which is a better formulated mix for metals.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 05:32 |
|
mr. stefan posted:Its far less interesting than it looks I dunno, I'm kinda into these pictures. Unrelated: Why do I keep looking at non-cheap Zaku variants? mango sentinel fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Feb 9, 2016 |
# ? Feb 9, 2016 05:48 |
|
Ka0 posted:DO NOT BUY ALCLAD GLOSS BLACK it is faulty and the mix is poorly diluted, anything you coat it over with will crack regardless of weather, curing time, zodiac station ,etc. Yeah I have the Black Primer and Microfiller stuff, it doesn't come to a gloss though and everyone always says Alclad needs a gloss base.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 07:30 |
|
I've never had any troubles with Alclad's gloss black, so I'd disagree with that recommendation. I usually spray it over a regular primer so I can ensure a smooth surface though, so you might want to try that.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 08:41 |
|
The explanation I got from alclad was that they had bad batch of first-run gloss primers and that I was just unlucky, however this happened 2 years ago, I don't know just how many of those bad mixes are still left circulating. The good thing is alclad chrome works fine with any black gloss enamel, including humbrol.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 12:55 |
|
I'm just finishing up my first attempt at panel-lining on a 1/100 Blue Astray Second L and can't wait to get started on something else. The local hobby store doesn't have much: a 1/100 Graze that is kind of tempting but I haven't seen any Orphans yet and that sub-frame looks a bit difficult, and an MG Sazabi Ver Ka that I seem to recall reading is a pretty tough build. I've tackled a number of (older) MG builds without doing anything extra to them (ZZ which was floppy and awful, NT-1 Alex, and Kaempfer, and I think a few others) but it seems like MG and particularly HG have advanced since I last built anything, and RG didn't even exist before. I know I've got a few more MGs at my parents, like a Zeta Plus (whatever the older gray one is I think) and I've got an MG RX-78-4 and Rick Dias with me at my apartment, but I can't decide what to do next. I've been watching Build Fighters and am tempted to get a RX-178B. I'm leaning towards MG as I'm just starting to do anything other than straight out-of-the-box builds, and I figure 1/100 will be easier to panel line and do whatever detailing comes next on than something smaller, but I also want to get some HG stuff like the V2 Assault Gundam or Susanowo that aren't available in MG. Any recommendations for someone just getting back into gunpla and Gundam, and kits particularly worth checking out or avoiding? Also, is there a sort of natural progression of what comes next after panel lining? Sealing gaps or painting parts that aren't properly colored, for example (the Astray has some parts molded in white that are supposed to be blue and are bugging me, but I've never painted a kit before)?
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 16:45 |
|
Don't be intimidated by MG inner frames. I would honestly recommend you buy the MG Astray Blue Frame Second Revise. It makes the 1/100 you just finished look like a joke by comparison, and it's still a top-tier MG. I would go for that Sazabi ver. Ka if I were you. Treat yourself to an amazing experience.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 16:51 |
Ka0 posted:The explanation I got from alclad was that they had bad batch of first-run gloss primers and that I was just unlucky, however this happened 2 years ago, I don't know just how many of those bad mixes are still left circulating. The good thing is alclad chrome works fine with any black gloss enamel, including humbrol. I've had different results with different gloss black bases. Mr. Color gloss black isn't as reflective as Alclad, and Model Masters varies a bit as well. I may try the Mr. Color GX Ueno Black one of these days, mostly because it does stand to reason a lacquer gloss black base would be more forgiving in terms of dry and cure time. Also I never had an instance where Alclad didn't offer an immediate replacement for a bottle at issue, usually because shaking caused it to shatter. The newer bottles are non-reactive plastic, which obviates against that problem.
|
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 18:04 |
I found a nice-looking tutorial about how to do a poison-dart-frog style pattern for model painting. He's painting WH40K figurines and Citadel paints but this should be easy enough to adapt to non-Games Workshop products. I want to paint my Man Rodi coming in the mail up like this. What I'd like to do is some kind of deep metallic blue finish, then hand-paint the design on like some kind of camo. Any experience with bringing in the airbrush for the main color? Or would it be easier to paint the model gloss black, then do up the pattern of black dots with masking tape a-la the Layman's Gunpla Camo Tutorial and paint the rest of it blue?
|
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 18:22 |
|
Hey it took, uh, nine days, but I finally finished the head! / Why yes, Mechanicore, I did want teensy tiny little photoetch sheets behind the face vents that are literally impossible to see. (Actually I don't think I'm joking at this point, and that worries me. ) Twelve tiny sub 1mm in diameter metal rings. If ever I had a greater terror of something disappearing into the carpet void, I must have mentally repressed it. And man, looking at my panel lining in super blown up detail, it makes me feel bad. It looks fine from a distance but those little face lines are too small for my lining pen to really fill in nicely, but too shallow for a wash.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 18:32 |
|
Tighran posted:I'm just finishing up my first attempt at panel-lining on a 1/100 Blue Astray Second L and can't wait to get started on something else. The local hobby store doesn't have much: a 1/100 Graze that is kind of tempting but I haven't seen any Orphans yet and that sub-frame looks a bit difficult, and an MG Sazabi Ver Ka that I seem to recall reading is a pretty tough build. I've tackled a number of (older) MG builds without doing anything extra to them (ZZ which was floppy and awful, NT-1 Alex, and Kaempfer, and I think a few others) but it seems like MG and particularly HG have advanced since I last built anything, and RG didn't even exist before. The Sazabi ver Ka is a good kit. The MG Amazing Red Warrior is a solid build too (as is anything else based on the MG Gundam 2.0 frame). The MG Build Fighters Mk II is not quite as good as those but still OK if you really like the design.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 20:42 |
|
Midjack posted:The Sazabi ver Ka is a good kit. The MG Amazing Red Warrior is a solid build too (as is anything else based on the MG Gundam 2.0 frame). The MG Build Fighters Mk II is not quite as good as those but still OK if you really like the design. I haven't actually seen the Red Warrior in Gundam form yet in the show, so I'm not sure I'm in love with the design (although the Amazing Zaku or whatever was pretty cool). If I wanted an MG Gundam 2.0 frame (which does sound sort of cool) I think I'd prefer it in... RX-78-2 form. As for the the Sazabi I'm tempted but the local store is charging about $115 for it which... doesn't seem bad given the size but I know the sticker price is far less than that, though shipping would be complicated I'm sure. Is that a reasonable price? Barring that, I suppose I might as well work on what I have. The Rick Dias is a neat design (ask me about my boner for Nagano's other works) but I think the RX-78-4 will be next as I really like the look of it and I guess I have a thing for long cannons (see also V2 Assault or F90-II L Type). Also would probably be better practice for more panel lining than the Rick Dias.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 23:38 |
|
The Amazing Red Warrior was only in two episodes of Try (and it sorta showed up at the end), but it probably came off better than any other suit.
|
# ? Feb 9, 2016 23:56 |
|
Tighran posted:I haven't actually seen the Red Warrior in Gundam form yet in the show, so I'm not sure I'm in love with the design (although the Amazing Zaku or whatever was pretty cool). If I wanted an MG Gundam 2.0 frame (which does sound sort of cool) I think I'd prefer it in... RX-78-2 form. As for the the Sazabi I'm tempted but the local store is charging about $115 for it which... doesn't seem bad given the size but I know the sticker price is far less than that, though shipping would be complicated I'm sure. Is that a reasonable price? $115 isn't awful; you can go on Amazon and find some less than that but you have to wait for it to ship. It may or may not be worth a few bucks to you to have it now and not subject it to the tender mercies of the post office. And if you want a MG Gundam 2.0 in RX-78-2 they're easy to find.
|
# ? Feb 10, 2016 00:38 |
|
Finished this Ex-S a few days ago. It's amazing what a difference lighting and a little Testors enamel makes, even on naked plastic. Up next is a Super Custom Zaku F2000 I found for only $21. What a steal !!
|
# ? Feb 10, 2016 00:49 |
|
How much of a pain are older kits? I'm looking at http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10015713 and wondering if there's anything I should know before getting a 15 year old kit.
|
# ? Feb 10, 2016 01:40 |
|
wish me luck on this one goons. this kit's going to take a ton of loving work, but man do I love the yf-19.
|
# ? Feb 10, 2016 02:50 |
|
zelah posted:How much of a pain are older kits? I'm looking at http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10015713 and wondering if there's anything I should know before getting a 15 year old kit. The HGUC GM isn't a bad kit, just don't expect modern articulation.
|
# ? Feb 10, 2016 03:03 |
|
Kaiju Cage Match posted:The HGUC GM isn't a bad kit, just don't expect modern articulation. Ehhh... I mean, I started with older kits, and it's not like the thing's a lot of extra work, but the HGUC GM is kinda crappy. Only two sprues, crappy articulation even compared to other kits from the same time period, beam toothpick... The thing could really use a revive.
|
# ? Feb 10, 2016 03:30 |
|
|
# ? May 27, 2024 03:47 |
|
zelah posted:How much of a pain are older kits? I'm looking at http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10015713 and wondering if there's anything I should know before getting a 15 year old kit. Nothing out of HGUC is particularly bad per se, but Gunpla has come a long way since the HG GM came out. Here's a dalong review of it. http://www.dalong.net/review/hg/h20/h20_p.htm
|
# ? Feb 10, 2016 03:48 |