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I've been googling this and not had much luck, does anyone have any pictures of what alclad chrome looks like when sprayed on different gloss base coats instead of the standard black one? White, yellow, red, etc.
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Feb 11, 2016 15:17
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I'm pretty much done with Yak-3 minus...putting final topcoat or something on it and redoing the canopy paint that flaked off. It turned out alright. Kit was pretty great, people "good" at this activity could really make it into something beautiful.  
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Feb 11, 2016 17:00
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bewbies posted:I'm pretty much done with Yak-3 minus...putting final topcoat or something on it and redoing the canopy paint that flaked off. It turned out alright. Kit was pretty great, people "good" at this activity could really make it into something beautiful. Awesome! what kit is this? I used to build models as a kid and only recently got back in to it so I'm making a list of things to build. I've finished a P-40, have an F6F Hellcat that I'm about to begin, and really want to do a Russian fighter next but I haven't been able to find much at all for them. I'd love a Yak-3, Yak-9 or a late war La series.
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Feb 11, 2016 18:03
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Well I think I got the paint mixed enough but man, you really can't let it pool up around edges because the pigment does weird poo poo and you get little green lines in the recesses. They'll be covered up with washes but at least the entire thing won't turn out green..I hope   Ps sweet yak dude!
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Feb 11, 2016 19:35
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Teeter posted:Awesome! what kit is this? I used to build models as a kid and only recently got back in to it so I'm making a list of things to build. I've finished a P-40, have an F6F Hellcat that I'm about to begin, and really want to do a Russian fighter next but I haven't been able to find much at all for them. I'd love a Yak-3, Yak-9 or a late war La series. Check out a site called scalemates. It is a centralized listing of things that have model kits made of them, the various kits and versions thereof, and reviews.
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Feb 11, 2016 20:14
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Hairspray chipping is awesome. Basically, I did a basecoat of primer, then did a metallic, then glosscoated, then hairspray, then a topcoat of red. Essentially the hairspray is water soluble, so when it gets wet, it flakes off easily with a stiff brush, or a broken toothpick. Here are my results thus far; just wish I wasn't so busy with work and could get to my workbench more often. 
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Feb 11, 2016 21:58
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So the goal is to make a plastic model look like an old metal match box car that was played with outside a bit too much? If I didn't know, I'd say the above picture was a metal figure of some sort that was bashed around. Really cool effect!
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Feb 11, 2016 22:54
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Baronjutter posted:So the goal is to make a plastic model look like an old metal match box car that was played with outside a bit too much? If I didn't know, I'd say the above picture was a metal figure of some sort that was bashed around. Really cool effect! Yeah, that's the idea. Especially for tanks, since the paint job is nice and new for about 5 minutes after it comes out of the factory.
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Feb 11, 2016 22:56
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Yeah, and let's be honest, a lot of weathering in models goes far beyond what would be realistic in the real world. Most model tanks are weathered to the point where in the real world it would ready for the scrap heap. But we do it because it looks cool and adds a unique look.
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Feb 11, 2016 23:12
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Baronjutter posted:So the goal is to make a plastic model look like an old metal match box car that was played with outside a bit too much? If I didn't know, I'd say the above picture was a metal figure of some sort that was bashed around. Really cool effect! That's the idea. That's an RX-77 Gundam/Guncannon from the first Gundam series (the only one I'm even remotely familiar with), so I wanted it to look exactly like that. Thanks for the compliment; I very much admire your stuff! I'm constantly showing my wife pics of your setup threatening to take over our garage with something similar. Edit: I showed my 5 year old how to chip; she went wild and now it looks like this: 
EdsTeioh fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 23:14
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Am I weird for thinking that the Puma has a sexy turret?
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Feb 12, 2016 00:19
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Teeter posted:Awesome! what kit is this? I used to build models as a kid and only recently got back in to it so I'm making a list of things to build. I've finished a P-40, have an F6F Hellcat that I'm about to begin, and really want to do a Russian fighter next but I haven't been able to find much at all for them. I'd love a Yak-3, Yak-9 or a late war La series. It is this one. I got a P-47N for my next build. I'm thinking I'd like to make it shiny polished aluminium like it just came off the production line, but I'd still like to do some sort of wash/filter to bring out the lines and rivets. Any suggestions or tutorials on this kind of effect? What this guy did, basically, though obviously I'm nowhere near that skill or gear level. Good lord people can make incredible things. bewbies fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 00:44
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Molentik posted:Am I weird for thinking that the Puma has a sexy turret? If there's one thing German tanks got right, it's the looks. Despite my overwhelming Russian Bias, I have more German tanks than any other nation's tanks because they have the coolest looking and zaniest designs. Also probably because model companies want that cold hard wehraboo cash and release 15 different kinds of munitionschleppers and then maybe a Sherman I guess.
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Feb 12, 2016 01:33
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Due to not being able to find the new Vampire kit in local shops except as the starter kit I bought that, assuming I'd just toss away the crappy brushes and ignore the glue and paints etc. In a stroke of utter bollocks, the kit has a totally different decal sheet to the one provided with the regular Vampire. The bollocks occurs, because the custom Irish Air Corps sheet I got to do my kit assumes you've got the decal sheet with the regular kit, not the one that comes with the starter kit. Does anyone have spare "KEEP OFF" decals from their set that they'd be willing to send to Ireland?
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Feb 12, 2016 20:01
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Picked up a couple of cheap planes for the future. Tried my best to paint match the italeri colours but I'm coming up short. Does anyone have some good tamiya colours for RLM 74, 75 & 76? The Italeri conversion chart lists them but the F.S numbers and the XF numbers don't match up at all.
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Feb 12, 2016 20:12
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Arquinsiel posted:Due to not being able to find the new Vampire kit in local shops except as the starter kit I bought that, assuming I'd just toss away the crappy brushes and ignore the glue and paints etc. In a stroke of utter bollocks, the kit has a totally different decal sheet to the one provided with the regular Vampire. The bollocks occurs, because the custom Irish Air Corps sheet I got to do my kit assumes you've got the decal sheet with the regular kit, not the one that comes with the starter kit. You can have the entire sheet except from the cockpit decal. Throw an email to my username at gmail.
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Feb 12, 2016 23:15
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Ensign Expendable posted:If there's one thing German tanks got right, it's the looks. That and the almost endless possibilities camouflage wise is the only reason I like to build German stuff.
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Feb 12, 2016 23:50
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Picked up a couple of cheap planes for the future. Tried my best to paint match the italeri colours but I'm coming up short. Does anyone have some good tamiya colours for RLM 74, 75 & 76? The Italeri conversion chart lists them but the F.S numbers and the XF numbers don't match up at all. A quick googling resulted in this, presuming you don't mind a bit of mixing.
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Feb 13, 2016 01:08
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If there is anyone in Canada looking to get themselves an airbrush setup, Michael's is having a buy one get one half off sale. You can also apply a 20% off coupon to that sale price, but only on Saturday. That's slightly better than the 40% off the offer with the coupon pretty much every other day. The downside is that you need to have a friend that also wants an airbrush, or convince yourself you need two for some reason. And remember, Michael's is filled with girls so it will be a completely different experience than any other time you've gone to buy something for modelling.
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Feb 13, 2016 18:45
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Antifreeze Head posted:Michael's is filled with
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Feb 13, 2016 21:15
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Okay, possibly stupid question time. My father-in-law used to build model kits when he was younger, and he still has an unassembled wooden Mantua Models HMS Victory kit in 1:98 lying around, purchased sometime in the early 70s, in its original box(which is in an original Italian Mantua shipping box, although that has some moisture damage, the kit's own box appears to be OK, same with the instructions inside. Haven't had a chance to check the wood itself yet and I have no idea how it's been stored over the years) Googling shows that this kit is still around and can be had for around $350 new. Of course, now they wanna know what it's possibly worth these days compared to a new one. Unfortunately I can't find any decent resources, or even images of the box this old one has. It doesn't help that the model number (776) hasn't changed since the 70s either, as every reissue is under that same number. Is there any way I can help them out or would this be best left to a professional?
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Feb 13, 2016 23:11
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I swung by Micheal's one time because I needed one of those organizer boxes for bits. The only ones they had were in their jewelry and beading section so the little old lady at the register got all giggly and ask "Oh, you got a lot of beads?" Being the worthless nerd I am, responded "BEES?!" Like GOB Bluth. Couldn't have done that with the old model train neckbeards at my hobby store.
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Feb 14, 2016 00:16
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Smoke posted:Okay, possibly stupid question time. My father-in-law used to build model kits when he was younger, and he still has an unassembled wooden Mantua Models HMS Victory kit in 1:98 lying around, purchased sometime in the early 70s, in its original box(which is in an original Italian Mantua shipping box, although that has some moisture damage, the kit's own box appears to be OK, same with the instructions inside. Haven't had a chance to check the wood itself yet and I have no idea how it's been stored over the years) Googling shows that this kit is still around and can be had for around $350 new. So there are a couple of problems they will run into selling this kit. First - it's probably the cheapest Victory kit out there, so right off the bat it's one that the bargain hunters would likely be after, rather than someone who really is willing to spend the big bucks to make a really good Victory. Second - Depending on how it was stored, a lot of the wood may be in very bad condition. Kits that sit on the shelf for lots of years (in this case, 40+ maybe?) can have the wood become dry and brittle, or if there is any plywood in the kit (bulkheads, keel parts, etc.) they might be warped or even de-laminated. Without having someone who really knows his stuff look at it, there is really no reasonable way to put a value on it. The other big issue with any large wooden ship kit, is that the shipping costs to send it to a potential buyer can get really high, really fast due to the size and weight, especially if it needs to be re-packed inside of a larger box to ship it. I would suggest getting a bunch of pictures of the kit and it's contents, and post them on Model Ship World (modelshipworld.com) and ask for help in pricing it, or if anyone is interested in it. That also happens to be the place that they would want to list it, as it's probably the single largest collection of wooden ship model builders to be found anywhere on the internet (at least in English). You'll need to include the general location so that people can guess about shipping (i.e. if it's in New England, someone in Australia that might want to buy it would probably not be able to because of shipping).
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Feb 14, 2016 03:53
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Really though, I doubt you'd even get the cost of the current kit for it. Ship models tend to be produced for decades on end, so something that was first put out in the 60's could still be for sale today. And it's generally the exact same kit, the only difference perhaps being that the manufacturer has upgraded to laser-cut parts, but that's about it. There aren't a lot of people willing to pay more for an old kit when they can get a new one that is literally the exact same item.
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Feb 14, 2016 05:13
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Really though, I doubt you'd even get the cost of the current kit for it. Ship models tend to be produced for decades on end, so something that was first put out in the 60's could still be for sale today. And it's generally the exact same kit, the only difference perhaps being that the manufacturer has upgraded to laser-cut parts, but that's about it. As someone is recently put together a plane with laser cut parts and now is looking to do one with die cut, I can tell you that this is a much bigger deal than others might assume by the few words devoted to it in your sentence.
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Feb 14, 2016 07:07
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The Locator: What do you use to cut out replacement parts on your ships? I broke the gunwale on the clipper, and I want to finish it. Band saw? Exacto?
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Feb 14, 2016 12:15
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Colonial Air Force posted:The Locator: What do you use to cut out replacement parts on your ships? I broke the gunwale on the clipper, and I want to finish it. I keep a jewelers saw and a cheap 100 pack of blades for cutting styrene, wood, and brass. That's what I used to cut all the parts out of the wooden boat I put together last year. http://www.amazon.com/Jewelers-Germ...ds=jewelers+saw
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Feb 14, 2016 13:13
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Colonial Air Force posted:The Locator: What do you use to cut out replacement parts on your ships? I broke the gunwale on the clipper, and I want to finish it. It depends on the material that the part is being cut from. If it's thin enough, I just trace a pattern and use an exacto. If it's thicker (like my cap-rails) I use a saw as was suggested by Nostallgia, but I don't try to cut it exactly, I leave a little bit around the edge and then sand it down to final size. If you had a really good scroll saw, that would work, and a band saw would work for roughing out the shape also if the piece allowed it. Basically, whatever works with the tools you have.
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Feb 14, 2016 18:03
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Yeah, I figured as much when I noticed it was still for sale. They have no intention of selling it but just think it'd be nice to know what it could be worth(the whole attic treasure thing) I'll check out the parts when I have some time, a first glance showed them looking pretty OK, but of course the risk of warping or drying is always present and not always immediately obvious. If I had any affinity with wooden models I'd ask them if I could build it, but plastic is difficult enough for me already sometimes. Also, I'd have no place to put it. Finding place for the Airbus A350 I'm working on right now was difficult enough, and that's only half as long and nowhere near as high.
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Feb 14, 2016 18:07
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Smoke posted:Yeah, I figured as much when I noticed it was still for sale. They have no intention of selling it but just think it'd be nice to know what it could be worth(the whole attic treasure thing) Speaking from other collector perspectives: sometimes a vintage box in good shape can command a premium but it's far from guaranteed.
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Feb 14, 2016 18:27
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Midjack posted:Speaking from other collector perspectives: sometimes a vintage box in good shape can command a premium but it's far from guaranteed. The problem in this case is that Mantua has never changed this model number, so it's possible that everything in the kit is exactly the same as if it was produced today. Same plans, same instructions, etc... So it could be very difficult to actually put an 'age' on the kit.
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Feb 14, 2016 18:49
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What you wanna do is carbon date a section of packaging then.Luminaflare posted:You can have the entire sheet except from the cockpit decal. Throw an email to my username at gmail.
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Feb 15, 2016 01:45
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My friend's ridiculous living-room destroying mega ship continues to progress.     What is very interesting is that this ship will be 100% white and the client who ordered it will be actually PROJECTING the textures onto it as part of an exhibit.
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Feb 15, 2016 02:04
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I was wondering how the gently caress they were even going to attempt to paint it before I read your text at the bottom.
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Feb 15, 2016 02:17
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It's amazing but when I look at it I think "how's it going to be transported?!" Doesn't look like it will come apart; will he be making a custom crate or something for it? Any chance he can get pics of it when the do the projecting, cause that would be aces to see
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Feb 15, 2016 03:01
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Baronjutter posted:My friend's ridiculous living-room destroying mega ship continues to progress. 
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Feb 15, 2016 03:05
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Baronjutter posted:My friend's ridiculous living-room destroying mega ship continues to progress. It's pretty awesome. Sultan Tarquin posted:I was wondering how the gently caress they were even going to attempt to paint it before I read your text at the bottom. I was thinking the exact same thing!
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Feb 15, 2016 03:23
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Yeah I hope he'll share some pictures of it once the projector people have at it. The dude doing it is apparently some world-famous projector pioneer who does all sorts of major projection-wraps. I saw some very cool use of the technology in europe where they'd project a texture over the face of a whole building and a scene would would play out. I guess they just some how scan the geometry of the building then design a projection that sort of UV-maps to it as if it was a 3d model.
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Feb 15, 2016 03:37
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I was wondering how the gently caress they were even going to attempt to paint it before I read your text at the bottom.
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Feb 15, 2016 03:46
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Oh also the ship in real life is almost entirely white in order to minimize heat from the sun or something, so other than a matte white spray once he's done it's pretty easy. The ship as is already has $500 worth of brass in it. The hull is made from plywood I believe and should be quite heavy/solid.
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Feb 15, 2016 03:48
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