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DrakeriderCa posted:I've finally sold the wife on a router so that I can finish some basic cabinetry we need done. What should I be looking for, in a basic table & router to do really simple rounding of dimensional wood and to mill in a channel for a cap, in a package that can stow on a shelf. I don't need a big fixed table, and I'm on a budget so I won't be getting a Freud or whatever's expensive. RPM's should be pretty consistent from one to the next. Although you can get by with something small to do what you're talking, look for something in the 1 1/2-2 HP range. You can get something mid-range decent like Porter-Cable or DeWalt, or heck, the Chinese knockoffs like Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) for mucho cheapo, and live with the scorn and shame. they're probably fine, heck they've got a 1 1/2 HP variable speed plunge for $75
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Feb 10, 2016 00:04
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DrakeriderCa posted:I've finally sold the wife on a router so that I can finish some basic cabinetry we need done. What should I be looking for, in a basic table & router to do really simple rounding of dimensional wood and to mill in a channel for a cap, in a package that can stow on a shelf. I don't need a big fixed table, and I'm on a budget so I won't be getting a Freud or whatever's expensive. As far as power goes, anything with an actual hp at the shaft will do in just about everything most people need. Rpm range wise, unless you plan on spinning 2" diameter cutters, something with a range of 10-14k upto 28-30k will do. Bigger cutters are spun more slowly, very few are spun faster than 30k rpm. Collet reducers suck. So get something that comes with multiple collets. For NA 1/4" and 1/2" are the most common sizes, EU would be 6, 8, and 12mm, where 8mm is by far the most common. My router came with 3 collets, 6mm, 1/4", and 8mm. I've never used anything but the 8mm collet. As far as plunge and fixed bases, both have their use. If you can afford it, I'd recommend getting a router that comes with both. As for features, soft-start is really nice, especially on machines with over a hp at the shaft. Constant output is also very nice to have. My router is rated at close to 2hp for (240V 7A), but it puts out a constant 735W at the shaft. And while that is only a mere single hp, it has no issues cutting a 10mm round over into walnut. As far as plunge bases go, get a feel for the mechanism in the store. It should slide smoothly, have some form of micro adjustment for the plunge depth. As for bits, keep in mind that it will spin at 28k rpm at crotch height. Do you trust chinesium hss to not grenade you in the nuts? If you have none as is, get one of the 15 or 25 bit starter kits. Ideally such a kit would have a couple of plunge straight cutters with the diameter of common plywood thicknesses, eg 1/4", 1/2", 3/4". A rabbet bit, one where the cutter is bigger than the guide bearing, usually it's a 1 1/4" cutter with a 3/4" guide bearing. So it makes a 1/4" rabbet. A pattern bit, with the bearing above the cutter. An edge trim bit with the bearing below the cutter. And whatever round over, chamfer, etc bits you want. Do get carbide tipped bits, they're a bit more expensive but last a lot longer than hss. Solid carbide is nice but very expensive.
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Feb 10, 2016 00:15
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Thanks guys! I'm in Canada and hoping to spend less than $100 for the router, so I'd probably be looking at used routers.
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Feb 10, 2016 01:53
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Deedle posted:Do you trust chinesium hss to not grenade you in the nuts? I had this happen once. Luckily it was only a 1/4" straight bit, and I was wearing a leather apron, so I didn't even know the bit had broken until it didn't throw any more chips out.
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Feb 10, 2016 05:09
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DrakeriderCa posted:Thanks guys! My first router table was a piece of plywood clamped to a bench. You dont need to spend big on a table to get ok results. If I was doing it again, I would go for the "suspend plywood between two surfaces" route though. More support = better than.
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Feb 10, 2016 12:33
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Mercury Ballistic posted:For lack of a better place to post this, I figure here is as good as any spot. That is hands down one of the coolest safes I've ever seen. Plus the fact it's on wheels, you shouldn't have any trouble putting it on craigslist for ~300 bucks and getting at least 200 out of it. You could probably get more if the shelves are removable because people could use it as a gun safe. First thing I'd do at any rate is shoot some penetrating oil/pb blaster into those wheels because they're probably frozen up.
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Feb 10, 2016 12:34
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Mercury Ballistic posted:For lack of a better place to post this, I figure here is as good as any spot. If that's anywhere near me I want to take a look at it. Because I'd totally use something like that. Got no idea what it's worth.
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Feb 10, 2016 14:36
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Frogmanv2 posted:My first router table was a piece of plywood clamped to a bench. You dont need to spend big on a table to get ok results. If I was doing it again, I would go for the "suspend plywood between two surfaces" route though. More support = better than. I went the same way, though I used a Workmate for a base. I got some cheap 16mm plywood and copied this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHaiRb0WZo I think I spent 12 euro on the plywood and some screws. Got the sheet of plywood cut to "good enough" sizes at the store as well, because that was free and convenient. Very little effort and very little cost.
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Feb 10, 2016 16:36
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Thanks again guys! I found a good sale on a router from Canadian tire. It's cheap but has a half decent warranty, and it satisfies all the specs that were raised earlier, for $80.Frogmanv2 posted:My first router table was a piece of plywood clamped to a bench. You dont need to spend big on a table to get ok results. If I was doing it again, I would go for the "suspend plywood between two surfaces" route though. More support = better than. Thanks! I found this online and if nothing else, I can always replace the table top with MDF or plywood and keep the feather boards, etc https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0546841P/false/false/false?selectedSku=0546841&quantity=1
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Feb 10, 2016 18:05
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DrakeriderCa posted:Thanks again guys! I found a good sale on a router from Canadian tire. It's cheap but has a half decent warranty, and it satisfies all the specs that were raised earlier, for $80. Going by the reviews, they all mention that the table is made of way too thin MDF. I'd keep my money and make my own for that kind of money. It really isn't hard or much work to do. Get a 2x4 ft of 3/4" plywood, get it into 4 pieces, 2 pcs 24x18" and 2 pcs 12x12". Also get some 1" long countersunk screws, say about 32 of them. Trace your router's base onto one of the 24x18" pieces. Somewhere that has the spindle sitting in the middle of the table and 2/3 of the way back from what will be the front of your table. Cut out the hole using a jigsaw, it doesn't have to be spot on, as long as it is big enough. Now predrill and countersink the 24 holes for the screws in the same piece that you've just cut the big hole in. Align and glue and screw the two 24x18" pieces together. Once it's set enough, place your router in the hole you've just made for it. Mark the mounting holes in the base of the router onto the upper half of the table. Drill and countersink as nessecary for the type of screw used in your router's base. Now insert a bit the same diameter (or smaller) as the pilot on your holesaw. Mount the router, plunge the center hole. Remove the router and saw out an appropriate sized hole. My router can't fit a bit larger than 35mm through the base, my biggest bits are 31mm in diameter, so I made a 32mm hole because that was the nearest size hole saw I had. If you have no clue, just make it the same diameter as the hole in the router base. Then take the 2 12x12" pieces. align them on the bottom of the table top in such a manner that they will prevent a workmate or other clamp from grabbing the router. Glue and screw them in place. Mount the router back in the hole, put the whole thing on a workmate, clamp the 2 12x12" bits of ply with the workmate. Blammo, easy, cheap router table. And with a 1 1/2" thick table top it's more than strong enough to put a T-track in it and it won't warp if you clamp a 2x4 on it to use as a fence. Use the 60$CAD you'll have left over to buy a workmate if you don't already have one. They are useful as gently caress.
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Feb 10, 2016 18:49
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Appreciate the feedback on the safe. It is in the Northern VA area for what it's worth. I'll spray some oil asap on the wheels.
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Feb 10, 2016 20:39
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^^ That's really a pretty cool safe, I'd be shocked if you couldn't unload that thing on craigslist pretty easy. So long as you can just roll it out the garage and tip it over onto someone's truck/trailer, should be pretty easy.DrakeriderCa posted:Thanks again guys! I found a good sale on a router from Canadian tire. It's cheap but has a half decent warranty, and it satisfies all the specs that were raised earlier, for $80. I wouldn't put too much faith in the warranty... AvE has a really great video talking about warranties from Canadian Tire, and long story short you might as well forget it. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 21:13
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OSU_Matthew posted:^^ That's really a pretty cool safe, I'd be shocked if you couldn't unload that thing on craigslist pretty easy. So long as you can just roll it out the garage and tip it over onto someone's truck/trailer, should be pretty easy. Uhh, make sure buyer assumes all responsibility for this, typically vaults of that size easily go above 1500 lbs.
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Feb 10, 2016 21:32
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deimos posted:Uhh, make sure buyer assumes all responsibility for this, typically vaults of that size easily go above 1500 lbs. Besides, heres how you do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OurCnuyC8zo
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Feb 10, 2016 23:26
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Deedle posted:Going by the reviews, they all mention that the table is made of way too thin MDF. I'd keep my money and make my own for that kind of money. This is a super awesome idea, thanks. I do have a work mate and I hadn't thought of putting the router on it.
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Feb 11, 2016 01:16
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A question about paint sprayers. I've been doing some home improvement lately and I already have a nice compressor setup for all sizes of nailguns but now I have a bunch of cabnetry and shelving to sand/paint. I noticed that pneumatic paint sprayers are a thing and they're not that expensive now that I already have the rest of the getup. It also looks like these would be a lot easier to paint mouldings and detail than with a brush/roller. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Spray-Gun-H4930SSG/203496910 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Gravity-Feed-HVLP-Spray-Gun-H4840GHVSG/203497519 There seems to be 2 kinds, a gravity fed and siphon fed, which works better? Can I use interior house paint in these? Thinned probably?
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Feb 17, 2016 20:32
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TheDon01 posted:A question about paint sprayers. Thinning the paint is only part of the ordeal, some cheap latex paints have such a coarse pigment that they will clog the nozzle regardless of thinning. Some manufacturers label their paint as spray-able, those you can thin per the instructions to about maple syrup consistency and it should be fine. As for siphon vs gravity fed, I know from airbrushing 40k tonks that some paints wouldn't play nice with a siphon feed. No idea why though.
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Feb 18, 2016 00:18
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I have mostly Behr Marquee paint and some glidden, ill have to double check the Glidden but the Behr is all 100% acrylic and water. Any idea how that performs out of a sprayer compared to latex? Its a thicker paint but their website says it can be thinned.
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Feb 18, 2016 00:44
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TheDon01 posted:A question about paint sprayers. You need a lot of CFM to keep it happy to my recollection. Probably not gonna work with the smaller units. Also, do it outside, over spray goes everywhere.
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Feb 18, 2016 01:44
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TheDon01 posted:A question about paint sprayers. I posted a little about sprayers a few pages back but for wood finishes. For latex paints you most definitely want to rent an airless. HVLP cannot be driven by most consumer compressors, you'd either want to go with LVLP and thin the paint or rent an airless sprayer. I am not as willing to recommend an HVLP turbine for latex application but thinned properly it should work.
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Feb 18, 2016 03:48
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I have a cheap little HVLP with a blower that shoots latex house paint just fine. It was the cheapest thing at Lowe's and sounds like a vacuum cleaner. I wouldnt use it for all the walls because it's so small but I used it to paint closet shelving OK. I think they make bigger ones as well.
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Feb 18, 2016 04:11
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Ditto on the airless sprayer, I bought a harbor freight unit last year to paint my detached garage, and was pretty blown away by how great it turned out to be. Easily paid for itself with three different uses, and it seems like it'll hold up pretty well with proper cleaning. Took my entire painting project from an estimated 30 hours by hand down to no poo poo twenty minutes a coat. Worked great with fresh Killz latex primer, but would frequently clog up with some old latex paint my dad gave me until I filtered out the particulates with a few times with window screen material. I wouldn't use it inside though, you're further ahead to just use rollers and brushes. Dollars to donuts you'd spend more time setting up and cleaning the sprayer than actually painting, plus you'd REALLY want to tarp down EVERYTHING you don't want accidentally misted.
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Feb 19, 2016 19:25
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I'm moving to a house in the suburbs from the city. My current house is .05 acres and I used a gas, non-self-propelled mower. I hate it. The new house is about an acre, mostly grassy, and I dont want to hate life - so I'm pretty set on a riding mower. Can someone school me on riding mowers? [spoiler]and leaf management in the fall[/b] What accessories do I need? Bagger? Are there attachments that will help with picking up leaves in the fall? I'm moving in early March, so I have some time to get things in order before the grass really gets cranking. Any help would be great.
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Feb 21, 2016 16:52
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All riding mowers under about $2500 are basically the same, made in the same factory, the differences are largely cosmetic. You want a mulching mower from someone nearby that can service it. Or service it yourself. About once a year you'll need to level the deck and sharpen the blades (maybe more often on sharpening), and change the oil. IMO, Toro makes the best consumer mowers over $2500 (their cheaper mowers are the same as everyone else).
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Feb 21, 2016 17:04
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wormil posted:All riding mowers under about $2500 are basically the same, made in the same factory, the differences are largely cosmetic. You want a mulching mower from someone nearby that can service it. Or service it yourself. About once a year you'll need to level the deck and sharpen the blades (maybe more often on sharpening), and change the oil. IMO, Toro makes the best consumer mowers over $2500 (their cheaper mowers are the same as everyone else). Is it worth spending the extra $1k or so over the $1500 models then? Assuming I plan to keep it for a while, and will likely want to use it for at a minimum dealing with fall leaves, snow, and mowing?
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Feb 21, 2016 20:03
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Fall leaf management: mow over the leaves and leave the little cut up bits to decay. It's good for your lawn.
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Feb 21, 2016 20:47
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Walked posted:Is it worth spending the extra $1k or so over the $1500 models then? Assuming I plan to keep it for a while, and will likely want to use it for at a minimum dealing with fall leaves, snow, and mowing? Tough call. Once you get over about $2500 (been a few years since I shopped mowers so that number might have gone up) there is a noticeable increase in quality but after wearing out two better Toros (over several decades) I bought a cheaper John Deere and it does the job but isn't as powerful, doesn't cut as well, and requires more maintenance.
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Feb 21, 2016 20:51
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Zhentar posted:Fall leaf management: mow over the leaves and leave the little cut up bits to decay. It's good for your lawn. Yeah I'm thinking a mulching blade should do the trick there
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Feb 21, 2016 20:51
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Unless you want to be one of these sperglord old fucks who gets their lawn constantly sprayed with random poo poo so the grass is perfectly uniform just buy whatever mower is going to last and mow away. No need to overthink things for 1 acre unless you are a gardener savant.
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Feb 21, 2016 21:31
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I used to landscape and mow professionally and have no problem doing my own repairs so take this advice with that in mind: go find a used walk behind. Like the kind landsapers use. You can get one for $500-1000 with a 52" deck that was designed to be run for 8-10 hours a day 6 days a week but is now too annoying to use that much because it needs some kind of adjustment or part every month. This equates to every few years to mow your acre of grass once a week. And they cut better than any of those consumer lawn tractors. And the local mower place that the pros go to have ALL the parts right on the shelf.
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Feb 21, 2016 22:48
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What do you guys like for socket organizers? I've looked at everything from the plastic ones at HD to the Hansen trays and the Westling aluminum trays. I'm leaning toward the Westlings, but are there any others to consider? They would essentially live in a rolling tool chest in my garage and not travel anywhere.
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Feb 22, 2016 19:57
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Speaking of rolling toolboxes, who makes affordable ones that still have a fair bit of quality?
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Feb 22, 2016 20:09
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Nostratic posted:What do you guys like for socket organizers? I've looked at everything from the plastic ones at HD to the Hansen trays and the Westling aluminum trays. I'm leaning toward the Westlings, but are there any others to consider? They would essentially live in a rolling tool chest in my garage and not travel anywhere. I absolutely love the Hansen trays. I would hate them if I didn't have the drawer space (they take a lot). So I think the recommendation depends on your use case/what space you have.
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Feb 23, 2016 03:28
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Nostratic posted:What do you guys like for socket organizers? I've looked at everything from the plastic ones at HD to the Hansen trays and the Westling aluminum trays. I'm leaning toward the Westlings, but are there any others to consider? They would essentially live in a rolling tool chest in my garage and not travel anywhere. These Lisle magnetic socket trays are a little bit spendy, but worth every penny. I've got a red for my metrics, black for my SAE, and a quarter inch tray for the small stuff. Otherwise, I just use a socket rail for the heavy impacts. The magnetic trays are super convenient to just grab what you need and go, and they hold basically everything you'd need for sae or metric deep/regular 3/8 sockets
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Feb 23, 2016 04:20
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Speaking of rolling toolboxes, who makes affordable ones that still have a fair bit of quality? Strangely enough, Harbor Freight, wait for a sale you can get them at like 20% off once or twice a year (this advice is five years old, may not work any more).
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Feb 23, 2016 05:11
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Motronic posted:I absolutely love the Hansen trays. I would hate them if I didn't have the drawer space (they take a lot). So I think the recommendation depends on your use case/what space you have.
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Feb 23, 2016 05:28
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Clearly your cars are far too new. 
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Feb 23, 2016 05:48
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Splizwarf posted:Clearly your cars are far too new.
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Feb 23, 2016 06:13
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Arrg, my work blocked gmail access so I have to use my phone to check my mail. Consequently, I missed out on a deal for a Rexcut (Canadian brand similar to Grizzly) 14" bandsaw for $75  Stupid security measures getting in the way of my hobby.
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Feb 23, 2016 15:42
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stealie72 posted:A full set of 3 socket sizes of SAE and metric sockets takes up and entire drawer Yup. 
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Feb 23, 2016 17:26
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