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Safety Dance posted:On average, they cost more money than they save. Third party warranties will go to considerable lengths to avoid paying out. They are not a tightly regulated market like health insurance; they exist to separate the gullible from their money. The best are the warranty brokers that take your money, buy coke, and forget to purchase your warranty.. they you're out the 3k, and good luck getting either the warranty or your money back.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:06
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So if I spent $1800 for 4 years it still isn't worth it?
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Mar 30, 2016 00:11
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Remember how we all told you the Prius is a dead reliable car, and you know how the warranty company makes money? You won't have $1800 in covered repairs in four years. A friend bought a Prius and a lovely extended warranty. It doesn't even cover the HV battery. Pretty much everything you will put into that car in the next four years will be wear items - tires, oil changes, wipers, fuel. I won't even say brakes because most Priuses go for eons on brake pads because you can use just regen braking much of the time.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:16
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Okay, I'll cancel it. I'm just paranoid because my mom just got a used car (Mazda CX-7) and it already has problems.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:18
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The techs at my shop hate the Prius because there's never a dang thing wrong with them. They just get oil changes. Even the brakes last much longer because of hybrid regen braking.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:22
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The only real big expense will either be the brake booster thing or the large battery, and I am sure both are not covered by lovely warranties.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:27
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ruarc posted:CEL came back on. P0421 and p0300. Move your coilpacks and injectors around and see if it moves. The veloster turbo forums are having similar common issues with the coil packs. I think a lot of hyundai's fours come from Mitsubishi design so worth checking those.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:54
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PaintVagrant posted:The only real big expense will either be the brake booster thing or the large battery, and I am sure both are not covered by lovely warranties. One of the dumbest people I know has blown an engine on one at 90k miles in north dakota. If you want to offer him $2k for it he'd probably sell it since the dealer told him some lol $8k to fix.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:56
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Christobevii3 posted:One of the dumbest people I know has blown an engine on one at 90k miles in north dakota. If you want to offer him $2k for it he'd probably sell it since the dealer told him some lol $8k to fix. Just curious, how did he blow the engine? Story sounds interesting.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:22
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 A purely hypothetical question: how would you go about repairing a frayed wire like the one in this image? Assume that you can't get inside the orange bit.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:26
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punk rebel ecks posted:Just curious, how did he blow the engine? Story sounds interesting. We're debating calling the dealer to understand. My friend said he would turn his car on letting it idle for 20-30 minutes in the morning of cold north dakota winters. Judging by his intelligence the plugs have never been changed and just burnt the tips off misfiring until a piece of the plug or two fell in. Allegedly two bad cylinders.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:47
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spog posted:
Clip off the bad part, restrip, and tighten down. Ghetto way is plasti dip it.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:48
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Can also drill into the copper remnants and force an oversized wire in, preferably of a thicker stranding.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:56
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Christobevii3 posted:Move your coilpacks and injectors around and see if it moves. The veloster turbo forums are having similar common issues with the coil packs. I think a lot of hyundai's fours come from Mitsubishi design so worth checking those. The plan on my next day off is to replace them and check the plugs, as the coils to my knowledge haven't been swapped, or if they were it was when the 60K service was done. I have to wait till monday due to OT shifts at work, though. Everything seems fine if I drive like a grandma, though.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:59
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Christobevii3 posted:Clip off the bad part, restrip, and tighten down. Ghetto way is plasti dip it. Tighten down how? I don't think I could get access to the inside of the piece. Geirskogul posted:Can also drill into the copper remnants and force an oversized wire in, preferably of a thicker stranding. A penny nail is the perfect fit for that!
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Mar 30, 2016 02:01
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ruarc posted:The plan on my next day off is to replace them and check the plugs, as the coils to my knowledge haven't been swapped, or if they were it was when the 60K service was done. I have to wait till monday due to OT shifts at work, though. Everything seems fine if I drive like a grandma, though. Just swap them around and see if the misfire code follows. Costs nothing.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:06
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What's under the red cover? What car/part are we looking at?
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Mar 30, 2016 02:07
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Christobevii3 posted:What's under the red cover? What car/part are we looking at? Sorry, should have said: it's a solenoid for a gas shut - off valve for an lpg conversion. Hence the reason that it is purely a hypothetical question, since I am not going to bodge something as important as that. Just curious, as I have had similar failures on electrical stuff before and insulation tape or WD40 aren't viable options.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:17
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Christobevii3 posted:We're debating calling the dealer to understand. My friend said he would turn his car on letting it idle for 20-30 minutes in the morning of cold north dakota winters. Judging by his intelligence the plugs have never been changed and just burnt the tips off misfiring until a piece of the plug or two fell in. Allegedly two bad cylinders. Did he change the oil? I've seen a few Prius that didn't get it changed because it was an "electric car"
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Mar 30, 2016 02:36
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punk rebel ecks posted:So if I spent $1800 for 4 years it still isn't worth it? Christ, no. It's only worth it if you expect to have $1800 in repairs during that time. I've had exactly ONE vehicle that an extended warranty would've saved me money on (my current one  ).
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Mar 30, 2016 02:47
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Christobevii3 posted:We're debating calling the dealer to understand. My friend said he would turn his car on letting it idle for 20-30 minutes in the morning of cold north dakota winters. Judging by his intelligence the plugs have never been changed and just burnt the tips off misfiring until a piece of the plug or two fell in. Allegedly two bad cylinders. I thought letting yoru car warmup more than a minute or two was bad? Godholio posted:Christ, no. It's only worth it if you expect to have $1800 in repairs during that time. I've had exactly ONE vehicle that an extended warranty would've saved me money on (my current one Don't you wish you were covered? 
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Mar 30, 2016 02:48
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punk rebel ecks posted:I thought letting yoru car warmup more than a minute or two was bad? Yeah, that's the point. quote:Don't you wish you were covered? Definitely. But if I bought an extended warranty on all my cars (even the vehicles I bought new) I'd actually be down a couple grand even with the current repair. But from a third party, you really need to investigate what's covered, because chances are the expensive Prius bits aren't. Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 02:50
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Godholio posted:Definitely. But if I bought an extended warranty on all my cars (even the vehicles I bought new) I'd actually be down a couple grand even with the current repair. But from a third party, you really need to investigate what's covered, because chances are the expensive Prius bits aren't. That reply wasn't me attempting to justify my warranty, but to just poke fun at you. Don't worry I'm canceling the warranty tomorrow.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:57
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A dealer is trying to sell me on perma plate under coating and paint protection. Does anyone have experience with this product. I'm not getting the paint protection as from what I can tell it's just wax. Melthir fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 03:26
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MRC48B posted:Did he change the oil? I've seen a few Prius that didn't get it changed because it was an "electric car" Will check...lol?
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Mar 30, 2016 03:52
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RyuHimora posted:but the code reader port doesn't seem to be functional; or it's just too old to support my bluetooth reader. Does your reader not even power up when plugged in to the port? If not, you have a blown fuse somewhere (probably for the lighter if it has one, or a power port) IOwnCalculus posted:Pretty much everything you will put into that car in the next four years will be wear items - tires, oil changes, wipers, fuel. I won't even say brakes because most Priuses go for eons on brake pads because you can use just regen braking much of the time. Coworker bought his 06 Prius with about 70k on it. It's now pushing 180k and he's never touched the brake pads (... though it's needed the brake booster replaced).
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Mar 30, 2016 03:55
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some texas redneck posted:Does your reader not even power up when plugged in to the port? If not, you have a blown fuse somewhere (probably for the lighter if it has one, or a power port) There's a red light on the reader but it doesn't seem to boot up.
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Mar 30, 2016 04:45
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Melthir posted:A dealer is trying to sell me on perma plate under coating and paint protection. Does anyone have experience with this product. Go get a 3rd party undercoat / oil bath.. most add on poo poo is a money printer for dealers. 
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Mar 30, 2016 05:53
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Hey guys, trying to repair my 2003 Buick Regal. It has a 3.8l engine and I'm getting a cylinder 4 misfire error code. This happened about three months ago, and we tried replacing the cylinder coil pack with a spare, which didn't work. I then took it to the shop because the spark plug was just out of reach, and the shop replaced it. It drove away with no problem, though I figured the spark plug was the least likely solution. Since it's the same problem, I think it might be a bad spark plug wire, and the shop just worked it back on temporarily. Any fault with my logic?
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Mar 30, 2016 12:45
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PaintVagrant posted:The only real big expense will either be the brake booster thing or the large battery, and I am sure both are not covered by lovely warranties. Hybrid components have an 8 year / 100,000 mile warranty from the factory. I think there's a even longer factory warranty on the hybrid battery because it may be considered an emissions item. This may vary depending on if your're in California or not. Somewhat unrelated fact: All Prius cars sold in the USA meet California emissions standards.
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Mar 30, 2016 13:05
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So the battery is warrantied for roughly 1/3 the typical mileage of these cars...
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Mar 30, 2016 14:08
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Just did an outer tie rod end on a 2003 dodge dakota. The replacement part came with a new nyloc nut to thread onto the bit that sticks through the knuckle. Since the nyloc nut grips the threads so well i can't turn it without also turning the threaded part. I tightened it down with two wrenches, one on the nut and one on the hex end above the threads, but can't use my torque wrench without everything just spinning. How much should i tighten that nut? I've eliminated any up and down play in the tie rod, and a little grease came out of the boot on my last crank.
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Mar 30, 2016 17:38
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If there's a torque spec, you might be able to use a crow's foot on your torque wrench.
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Mar 30, 2016 18:16
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Raluek posted:If there's a torque spec, you might be able to use a crow's foot on your torque wrench. Or just gudentite.
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Mar 30, 2016 19:13
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0toShifty posted:Somewhat unrelated fact: All Prius cars sold in the USA meet California emissions standards. I think the longer CA-only warranty only applies if the car was sold new in California, though. InitialDave posted:Or just gudentite. This is probably what I'd do in that situation, especially since it's a locking fastener.
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Mar 30, 2016 19:26
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If I'm looking at a project car (~$12,000 budget over 2-4 years), how stupid is it to buy a rolling chassis and basically build an entirely new car inside the body of one from the late 70's/early 80's? I'm not thinking Project Binky levels of Sisyphisian madness, closer to buying a relatively rust free, but not-roadworthy 2+2 Z car, E21, very early E30, or Spider 124 and building a Frankenstein with an LS1, M50, M62, or Coyote engine, replacing the entire suspension, and most of the interior. I can't find a modern car that has what I want out of it, so I figured that I'd build one, but I want to know how feasible my plan is E: also looking at Japanese imports to put a Subaru or Suzuki engine in, but I'm more nervous about that idea The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 23:05
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A kit car would be less painful
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Mar 30, 2016 23:06
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The Door Frame posted:If I'm looking at a project car (~$12,000 budget over 2-4 years), how stupid is it to buy a rolling chassis and basically build an entirely new car inside the body of one from the late 70's/early 80's? It happens all the time on older American cars. You're going a different direction with platforms I'm not really familiar with, but the idea as a whole isn't that unusual. I also don't know how realistic your budget is.
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Mar 31, 2016 00:34
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$12k was actually $4000 over my researched estimate on the Datsun, with specific parts too. I tacked it on because my buddy restored a GTO and he went $5000 over his $15k budget, so I know that I will need at least $2000 more than any estimate I have What's the deal with kit cars? I only hear about them in a very negative context
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Mar 31, 2016 03:43
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Kit cars have a bad rep because the term includes all sorts of junk like Fiero rebodies as Ferraris and Lamborghinis, to "factory continuations" like the CSX4000 Cobras. A quality kit will have good results, but it also depends on the quality of work and attention to detail. Also, there's a big difference between "building a new car within a classic silhouette" and "restomod". On cars with sufficient aftermarket support, you could replace just about everything in the suspension and the drivetrain with modern aftermarket parts without ever thinking the word 'fabrication', but you're still working around limitations like stock suspension pickup points.
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Mar 31, 2016 05:11
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