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I had a midair failure Saturday night when using my hiro frame for a light show at a party (no one saw thank god). Their adamant plea to not use Loctite with their polycarbonate frame came back to bite me as a motor shaked all its screws out. Only two props broke luckily, I went back and used thread locker tape on every screw
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Apr 11, 2016 15:01
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Takkaryx posted:If your ESC looks like the one you linked, then the black wire is negative and the white is signal. These should connect to pinouts on the FC. Each ESC will have a signal/neg wire leading to the FC. Hopefully the board will have numbers on the pinouts, and what order you plug the ESCs in will depend on the board (Northwest motor corresponds to pinout 1, northeast to 2, or maybe northwest 1 southwest 2, etc.) Thanks! Looks like i (finally) know where everything goes! I am not really sure what to do once i have assembled everything on the quad? The Naze32 has a micro USB port. Should i connect this to my PC at some point? Do i need to do anything with my Taranis X9D to set it up (unrelated to the quad) How do i get my Taranis working with the quad? I feel the building process is fairly well documented but i still have no grasp of all the other things to do and barely see those topics brought up. (such as flashing firmware etc) The only reason i assume this is a thing in the first place is because i know about such activities from a life of being interested in gadgets and electronics.
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Apr 11, 2016 17:21
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This video series was really helpful to me in getting my first build set up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0vOVZPzIMo This post was helpful too http://blog.oscarliang.net/cleanflight-naze32-setup/
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Apr 11, 2016 17:34
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After seeing demonstrations of the tarranis, and playing with the 9xr, I am certain they're out to make programming your radios harder. On purpose. The DX6i wasn't "great" but could be figured out. The DX18 is pretty awesome. I'm still trying to figure out 9503...
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Apr 11, 2016 18:11
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Programming transmitters are a whole nother level of learning. Jumping into quads will make your brain leak out your ears for a month or so. Tip for you guys just starting. The wires from motor to ESC. Dont just cut the motor wires short and solder to the ESC. Run the wires under the ESC then back over the top and solder there. On larger frames you can do barrel connectors with heat shrink if you'd like. But the under over is pretty simple and gives you some slack. Philthy fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Apr 11, 2016 |
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Apr 11, 2016 18:52
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One issue that I've found with all of this stuff is that all the information is there, but none of it is centralized. Nothing a bunch of googling and open tabs can't solve, though. I can only imagine how daunting making a new OP with the "basics" would be. Unrelated, my diatone 215 will take a 3s or 4s. I figured I should start with a 3s to slow it down, but I don't really know if it matters.
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Apr 11, 2016 19:06
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Nerobro posted:After seeing demonstrations of the tarranis, and playing with the 9xr, I am certain they're out to make programming your radios harder. On purpose. I have never used a spektrum, but aren't certain sticks/switches tied to specific channels on the receiver with no flexibility? i.e. Can you program a spektrum to have your right stick go from Ail/Elevator control to controlling the pan/tilt on your plane's camera?
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Apr 11, 2016 19:11
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Google Butt posted:One issue that I've found with all of this stuff is that all the information is there, but none of it is centralized. Nothing a bunch of googling and open tabs can't solve, though. I can only imagine how daunting making a new OP with the "basics" would be. Yes, start with 3S. Also, never run batteries down till they're out of charge. You can potentially damage them so that future charges wont hold or they might catch fire and burn your house down. Yet another gotcha I learned after the fact. No damage but ruined a battery.
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Apr 11, 2016 19:52
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I had a midair failure Saturday night when using my hiro frame for a light show at a party (no one saw thank god). Their adamant plea to not use Loctite with their polycarbonate frame came back to bite me as a motor shaked all its screws out. Only two props broke luckily, I went back and used thread locker tape on every screw woops forgot to post the vid of our other light up quad. a goofy little scamp that excited those looking through the windows https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKE70wIWeqs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41-OG8yjbEA
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Apr 11, 2016 22:38
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My hubsan arrived today. I also learned that I suck at flying. like really suck.
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Apr 11, 2016 23:30
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My new favourite frame is the Insect 130 from Banggood US. It's basically the size of an Atom122 but without the deadcat rear arms, giving you a bit more space to fit the antenna/power connector between the motors. Also sorta reminds me of one of those crazy tiny Sputnik 117 frames, except this fits 30.5mm boards.     It's ~260g AUW with a 4s1050mah, and ~220g with a 4s450mah. Flights are only 3 mins with that 450 but hooooooly poo poo is it a fun 3 mins. The 1050 goes for 5min+ which is all I ask for.
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Apr 11, 2016 23:36
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Brekelefuw posted:My hubsan arrived today. Just takes time. Also where are you practicing? If you're just trying to dong around in your livingroom then you're probably way too nervous about crashing into your expensive TV or something, like me. I'm bad at flying too, but I literally made zero progress until I actually took it outside to a field and stopped worrying about having it gently caress up my house 
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Apr 11, 2016 23:40
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I don't care about crashing it. It's more of me overcompensating, or not instinctually reacting in the proper way to fix my flight path. Right stick strafe and left stick rotate confuses me since it's the opposite of what happens in video games. Here's a photo of my sweet drone : 
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Apr 11, 2016 23:57
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What is the name of that drone? I wouldn't mind a small camera equipped one so I don't have to always use my inspire1 every time I just want to screw around
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Apr 12, 2016 00:01
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Hubsan x4 h107d There is a d+ model with a better camera and altitude control, but I didn't want to spend the extra money. the h107c and c+ are camera drones, but no FPV
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Apr 12, 2016 00:04
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The RotorX Atom V2 is now on indiegogo: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-atom-the-world-is-your-racetrack#/
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Apr 12, 2016 00:12
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Hey, does anyone happen to have experience with setting up serial transcievers for computers? I have a quad I've been working on (old picture, currently in the process of rebuilding to stack the RPI and APM).  I have an APM that's acting as my flight controller, then have a RPI communicating through a level shifter over UART0 to send flight commands via MAVLink. I'm doing it this way so the PI can control the quad for autonomous applications that the APM isn't set up for. The PI runs Open CV to track and follow people. One of the problems I'm working on tackling is that the RPI is what's actually communicating with my ground station (my computer). I picked up a transceiver off HK so I can send remote commands to my RPI from my computer. The issue is, my computer is going to be communicating with the RPI, not the APM, and I don't plan on using MAVLink. I haven't been able to really find any guides for how to do that. Thankfully the transceivers are more or less plug and play usb devices but I'm a bit unsure how to go about binding them and setting up a bridge. BedBuglet fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 02:11
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Christ I'm going to stop ordering from banggood. Their prices are good but I'm not likely to get any of my parts this century. I feel like it is literally being walked to my house from China. edit: I mean I guess technically I could just pay for better shipping.
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Apr 12, 2016 02:52
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nerox posted:I have never used a spektrum, but aren't certain sticks/switches tied to specific channels on the receiver with no flexibility? Depends on the transmitter. The DX18 I can do more or less anything.
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Apr 12, 2016 02:53
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Martytoof posted:Christ I'm going to stop ordering from banggood. Their prices are good but I'm not likely to get any of my parts this century. They're not nearly as bad as some of the Chinese ebay sellers. I've had things take well over a month. What I hate more than slow delivery times is how Hobby King will have things out of stock for 3-6 months at a time or how almost half their products are on backorder. Recently had an order for some bullet connectors sit backordered for a month before I checked the comment section and saw people posting from last October asking when they were going to restock the item.
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Apr 12, 2016 03:34
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Any recommendations for a 3s battery and charger? Diatone recommends either 1300 or 2200mah, I'm thinking 2200mah because speed isn't that important while I'm learning, but stick time is.
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Apr 12, 2016 05:49
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sigseven posted:This video series was really helpful to me in getting my first build set up: Thanks! That dude really talks fast! I watched it for a few minutes and it it looks fairly informative. Martytoof posted:Christ I'm going to stop ordering from banggood. Their prices are good but I'm not likely to get any of my parts this century. Whenever i am visiting my PIL's and ordering stuff in china they arrive the next morning. Its like someone is alerted whenever i come to China and sits there waiting for my orders, handpacks them and gets on the first airplane to deliver them to me. I have never ordered anything from China to be sent here to Norway so my only experience with Chinese shipping is domestically in China. I kinda expected them to be just as efficient with international shipments.
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Apr 12, 2016 08:43
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Banggood and various ebay sellers are pretty drat good with shipping it the next or even same business day. Outside of one order I did over Christmas/NYE period, most stuff arrives to Europe within about 2 weeks. What sucks is the backordered stuff, as has been mentioned. I've been waiting already as long for the AV TX/RX and a set of props that I actually need RIGHT loving NOW and it hasn't shipped yet. Google Butt posted:Any recommendations for a 3s battery and charger? Diatone recommends either 1300 or 2200mah, I'm thinking 2200mah because speed isn't that important while I'm learning, but stick time is. I have a pair of Turnigy 2200 for the plane and as a backup for the F450. This is on the lower end of capacity for the latter but they hold up pretty well anyway. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9394__Turnigy_2200mAh_3S_30C_Lipo_Pack.html The charger is the default go-to IMAX-B6, again works perfectly fine with an old laptop PSU: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28146__IMAX_B6_50W_5A_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_UK_Warehouse_.html
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Apr 12, 2016 09:10
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mobby_6kl posted:Banggood and various ebay sellers are pretty drat good with shipping it the next or even same business day. Outside of one order I did over Christmas/NYE period, most stuff arrives to Europe within about 2 weeks. +1 on eBay sellers shipping quick these days. If it's not prime on Amazon I'll go there in an instant. I should have mentioned that the battery is going on that diatone 215 quad. Is 30c low for that diatone tyrant 215? I should probably buy a 1300 and a 2200 just to see how they feel and go from there.
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Apr 12, 2016 09:39
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Martytoof posted:Christ I'm going to stop ordering from banggood. Their prices are good but I'm not likely to get any of my parts this century. Just pay the extra £1.50 for expedited shipping, normally arrives within a week or so that way. Anyone have any experience with the MicroMinimOSD? I've hooked it up to my quad, connected it to the Naze32rev6 board, VTX and Camera. When i power it up I get the camera picture on my goggles, just with no OSD at all. There are lights on the OSD board, and it's clearly routing the video signal through the board, any ideas what I could have done? I've now updated to the latest cleanflight and also updated to the latest mwosd on the board. Is there something i need to turn on in Cleanflight? Or something i need to configure in mwosd GUI to get something to appear? I assumed that there would be at least a default OSD without having configured it yet.
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Apr 12, 2016 11:59
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Google Butt posted:I should have mentioned that the battery is going on that diatone 215 quad. Is 30c low for that diatone tyrant 215? I should probably buy a 1300 and a 2200 just to see how they feel and go from there. If you do, I'd be curious to see what difference you see in flight time. The quad you're looking at has very small props and the difference between 1300 and 2200 is like 70-90 grams depending on the battery, right? Obviously you see some increase but I'd be interested to see how much the extra mah is counterbalanced by the extra weight, especially with such small props. Personally, I've always had really good experiences with Turnigy batteries. I've never worked with FPV (I'm more interested in autonomous flight), so I could be wrong, but don't they normally run on 4S? I was under the impression that the FPV transmitters went off 12 volts. I know I've heard people complain about losing their video with 3S before they lost flight... but that was in relation to a power distribution board so it could have been specific to that. EDIT: Just looked it up because I was curious, wow, you guys lose your fpv system quick. I'm typically flying until 8-9v but you all are down at like 10.4. BedBuglet fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 11:59
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Anyone flying the EMAX RS2205? They good?
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Apr 12, 2016 12:31
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Takkaryx posted:
Takkaryx posted:If your ESC looks like the one you linked, then the black wire is negative and the white is signal. These should connect to pinouts on the FC. Each ESC will have a signal/neg wire leading to the FC. I came across an article talking about OPTO ESC's and how this type of ESC doesn't provide power to the FC. It sounds like my ESCs are OPTO's? From what i understand i need a separate connection to get power to my flight controller, the ESCs won't supply it. Am i missing something here?
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Apr 12, 2016 13:54
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Ineptitude posted:I came across an article talking about OPTO ESC's and how this type of ESC doesn't provide power to the FC. It sounds like my ESCs are OPTO's? From what i understand i need a separate connection to get power to my flight controller, the ESCs won't supply it. Am i missing something here? That is correct, OPTO ECS's don't have the BEC to provide the 5V to power your flight controller. if you are using a PDB of some variety it should output a regulated 5V which you can use to power your flight controller instead. ESC's provide a pair or cables to send the signal from the FC to the ESC. Most people only connect the white(signal) cable to the FC, and then either cut off, or solder the black signal cable to a ground connection(I soldered mine to a ground connection to be safe). With regards to my earlier question about the OSD, it would seem that i may have a PAL/NTSC mismatch causing the failure, switching it over in mwosd GUI should resolve it, I'll find out tonight,
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Apr 12, 2016 14:14
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Combat Pretzel posted:Anyone flying the EMAX RS2205? They good? Yes but you have to use a 4s to really make them shine.
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Apr 12, 2016 14:15
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BedBuglet posted:Yes but you have to use a 4s to really make them shine.
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Apr 12, 2016 14:30
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Slash posted:That is correct, OPTO ECS's don't have the BEC to provide the 5V to power your flight controller. if you are using a PDB of some variety it should output a regulated 5V which you can use to power your flight controller instead. Thanks! Since ESCs normally provide power, is it safe to assume that to power the FC i can connect a red+black wire to 2 of the "trio" of connectors that normally gets connected with the 3-plug from an ESC? (and to take this power from the 5V out on the PDB? Im not really sure where else to provide power to the Naze32.
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Apr 12, 2016 16:42
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Ineptitude posted:Thanks! Oh yeah, you can absolutely do that... It's a great way to find out what a flight controller looks like when it burns out. The point of a BEC is to provide a stable voltage to your electronics (5v in the case of your FC). The output on an ESC is most certainly anything but that. You have three options really, buy an ESC that has a built in BEC, buy a standalone 5v BEC rated to 1-3A (not sure what your setup draws), or get something like a bridge or a power distribution board with an integrated BEC. I use a bridge on mine because it also lets me monitor the voltage off my battery but I also run a large drone and can afford the added size/weight. If you're running a smaller drone, I recommend using an ESC with an integrated BEC because you'll save space. If you're going with an external BEC, you can decide if you want to use a LBEC, SBEC, or UBEC. SBECs and UBECs will provide better battery life but may not be the best option since they can suffer from noise issues. EDIT: Let me clarify something, the power coming off your PDB to your ESCs is NOT 5v. Your PDB is providing direct power from your LiPo battery. The point of an ESC is to regulate that power as controlled by your FC. The ONLY thing that should be connecting to the output of your ESC is a motor. A (typical) BEC is a linear voltage regulator. They take the power off your battery and regulate it to a stable voltage. Sometimes components like PDBs and ESCs have BECs integrated (your ESCs don't because they're opto). My sarcasm aside, do NOT try to somehow jury rig a BEC. You WILL fry your board. BedBuglet fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 16:56
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Combat Pretzel posted:Anyone flying the EMAX RS2205? They good? Yes and yes. Make sure your ESC's are beefy enough or they will go up in flames.
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Apr 12, 2016 17:21
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Combat Pretzel posted:Anyone flying the EMAX RS2205? They good? The red bottoms? They are. Also heard good things about zmx v2, which are cheaper and lighter
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Apr 12, 2016 17:46
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BedBuglet posted:Oh yeah, you can absolutely do that... It's a great way to find out what a flight controller looks like when it burns out. The point of a BEC is to provide a stable voltage to your electronics (5v in the case of your FC). The output on an ESC is most certainly anything but that. You have three options really, buy an ESC that has a built in BEC, buy a standalone 5v BEC rated to 1-3A (not sure what your setup draws), or get something like a bridge or a power distribution board with an integrated BEC. I use a bridge on mine because it also lets me monitor the voltage off my battery but I also run a large drone and can afford the added size/weight. The naze32 can draw power from any of its 6 motor connections, just make sure you don't get the 5v/ground reversed. The ground pin is to the outside of the board and 5v is in the middle.
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Apr 12, 2016 18:33
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sigseven posted:He specifically said he'd be using a 5v out from the PDB though? It's pretty common for them to have 5v/12v regulators built in now. His wording very strongly led me to believe otherwise. "is it safe to assume that to power the FC i can connect a red+black wire to 2 of the "trio" of connectors that normally gets connected with the 3-plug from an ESC?" Sounds like he's talking about the three output wires from an ESC that run to your motor. If his PDB has a built in LBEC or SBEC then he can absolutely power off this but the only way he should get power from an ESC is if it has a built in BEC. It also sounded like he thought the ESC was being fed 5V which also isn't true... unless... you know... your battery is at 5V. 
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Apr 12, 2016 18:42
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Immediately after the bit you quoted was "(and to take this power from the 5V out on the PDB?" By 'trio' I'm pretty sure he means the 3-pin servo connectors.
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Apr 12, 2016 18:54
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sigseven posted:He specifically said he'd be using a 5v out from the PDB though? It's pretty common for them to have 5v/12v regulators built in now. Yeah, my PDB has 5V and 12V out BedBuglet posted:His wording very strongly led me to believe otherwise. I don't know many terms in this hobby yet so i am probably using the wrong words. I meant the 3-pin connector that comes from the ESC and goes on top of the Naze32 (this connector is separate from the red and black power wires) sigseven posted:Immediately after the bit you quoted was "(and to take this power from the 5V out on the PDB?" Yup! i will start calling them 3-pin servo connectors from now! I have no wire to connect my PDB to my FC as the customer support where i bought all my drone parts ensured me i had everything i need. Can i use other wiring or does it have to come from a "drone part supplier"? I have this 0,38mm^2 copper wire, "BELL WIRE", plastic insulated. Can this power my FC? I believe it is used for smoke detectors, fire alarms, alarm bells, etc. Ineptitude fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 19:03
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sigseven posted:Immediately after the bit you quoted was "(and to take this power from the 5V out on the PDB?" That's entirely possible. I guess I'd rather err on the side of caution and give them advice that makes sure they don't burn out a FC.
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Apr 12, 2016 19:17
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