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Kaiju Cage Match posted:What are some good sprue cutters in the 15 to 20 dollar range? Yea, I'm looking for new sprue cutters as well. I have Xuron Micro-Shear 420 and they sometimes they leave marks on my parts, even when I'm being careful. Tell me if I can find better or if I'm just bad at cutting plastic. EDIT: Kuvo posted:I use this. Its only $10 and works really well. Seems pretty good for $10. Hard to find good deals in Canada though. Mad Lupine fucked around with this message at 01:52 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 01:47
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| # ? May 28, 2024 14:22 |
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gently caress i meant to say "10 dollars more", as in 30 total
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May 26, 2016 02:06
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i've had several pairs of lovely xuron nippers that are really only good for cutting wire and ingrown toenails and a pair of godhand nippers and honestly i'd probably just go with the tamiyas over anything else.
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May 26, 2016 02:10
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The Testors cutters are decent, cheap,and widely available.
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May 26, 2016 02:54
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Be a real man and use nail clippers.
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May 26, 2016 02:58
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When the hell did someone start working on a MG Metal Build 00SS, and why did nobody tell me?
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May 26, 2016 03:12
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BB, I kind of hate you. You're killing my wallet here. (Just kidding, please keep it up. 
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May 26, 2016 03:16
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BlitzBlast posted:Be a real man and use nail clippers. Do not use nail clippers.
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May 26, 2016 03:16
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:BB, I kind of hate you. You're killing my wallet here. This news has basically murdered my drive to do something with my own MG 00 because holy poo poo I love the MB 00.
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May 26, 2016 03:19
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Kaiju Cage Match posted:What are some good sprue cutters in the 15 to 20 dollar range? Whatever you do, avoid the Xuron 3175ET. The bypass action does nothing good for straight builds. The Tamiya nippers are a fine product and worth the money, although I'd just as much recommend the Gundam Planet nippers to support a domestic business, assuming they're in stock.
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May 26, 2016 04:01
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Kaiju Cage Match posted:What are some good sprue cutters in the 15 to 20 dollar range? Time for my quarterly endorsement of the Micro-Mark despruing tweezers — they're the only flush cutters I've ever used that are worth a drat. chiasaur11 posted:Do not use nail clippers. I used nail clippers exclusively for over 20 years and they cut cleaner than any Xuron junk ever did. Sometimes, for curved surfaces, I still use 'em.
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May 26, 2016 04:51
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Bimmi posted:Time for my quarterly endorsement of the Micro-Mark despruing tweezers — they're the only flush cutters I've ever used that are worth a drat. I usually snip free from the sprue with the Testors cutters leaving a few millimeters of sprue and finish trimming with the micro mark tool. It's seriously good.
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May 26, 2016 04:57
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I use some Excel nippers I found in an old-fashioned hobby shop for $10, been a loyal workhorse so far. Previously, I just used an Xacto. Gave me cool scars.
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May 26, 2016 05:11
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Midjack posted:I usually snip free from the sprue with the Testors cutters leaving a few millimeters of sprue and finish trimming with the micro mark tool. It's seriously good. Likewise. It's not at all suited to cutting thick stuff.
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May 26, 2016 05:13
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I've been using bobo cutters that came with that little tool kit Amazon has a ways away from the part, then "xuron 410A full flush" closer, and then xacto kinda knife to finish it up. Usually that's enough but if it's a little ugly I try sanding with 1000/1500/2000 grit. I'm not painting or top coating or anything but stuff turns out fine.
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May 26, 2016 05:32
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Went ahead and ordered my second Real Grade, the MS-06F Zaku II. My RX-178 build went great, so I'm moving onto some grunt suits. When I drop by the store, I might also pick up the Gouf Custom, or the Thunderbolt Zaku, because holy poo poo that thing looks sexy. A question on detailing. I've been using a .005 micron pen to detail panel lines, but I don't have the steadiest hand. I've considered doing the inkwash technique, but I don't know how I'd go about doing it. Using the pen means I have some wobbly spots, but it is easy to clean off while it's still fresh. Arc Hammer fucked around with this message at 09:50 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 09:32
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Arcsquad12 posted:Went ahead and ordered my second Real Grade, the MS-06F Zaku II. My RX-178 build went great, so I'm moving onto some grunt suits. When I drop by the store, I might also pick up the Gouf Custom, or the Thunderbolt Zaku, because holy poo poo that thing looks sexy. This assumes either bare plastic or painted plastic that's had a gloss topcoat sprayed/airbrushed on and let to dry overnight. 1) Acquire an ENAMEL paint, usually available at local hobby shops, in the panel line color. Burnt umber is a fine color for most Gundam schemes as a starter color. 2) Acquire a TURPENOID lighter fluid, usually available at 7-11. Ronson lighter fluid in the yellow plastic squeeze bottle is $2 and lasts a very long time. If you can't find that brand, just make 100% sure it's turpenoid based. 3) Acquire a box of Q-TIPS OR GENERIC EQUIVALENT. I have had great bang-for-the-buck success with Dollar General's - they stay in swab form for longer and the shaft is comparable to branded Q-tips. 4) Acquire a FINE-POINTED NATURAL HAIR BRUSH. You don't have to go nuts but if you have a Michael's/AC Moore, wait for a 55% off coupon and get it then. Shouldn't be more than fourish bucks to get a very nice Windsor-Newton brush. Care for it well and it'll last a long time. 5) Go home and find yourself a space to work. 6) Mix together the paint and lighter fluid in a ratio roughly 60/40 paint/fluid. Adjust as needed to get a consistency of water where the paint is in a constant fluid form. Too much lighter fluid, the paint particles will look like they've fallen out of solution. Too much paint, it'll be too thick. Water consistency, flowing like water, be a waterbender but for paint. A paintbender. 7) Touch your brush to the mix. It should suck up the mix via capillary action. If it doesn't suck as it should, try taking it out to dinner first or adding as needed to increase the mix. 8) Touch the brush to the panel line. It should flow right in. Repeat steps 7 and 8 as needed to complete the panel lines. Don't forget to clean your brush in lighter fluid, or even better, enamel thinner/lacquer thinner. 9) Don't touch the part/parts for at least 10-15 minutes. I do not recommend waiting more than two hours. 10) Moisten a Q-tip in lighter fluid. Just enough to moisten. Flick off excess moisture if needed. 11) Gently rub the Q-tip on the spots where you touched the paintbrush to clean up the excess. Twirl the Q-tip as you go to ensure you're exposing as much of the clean, lighter-fluid-soaked surface as possible to get the excess. It should be very nice looking. It sounds more difficult than it is. Just remember to buy fresh paint and close it tightly. I know the FUN WAY that old paint or unshaken paint does not thin in a manner conducive for panel lining. Shake the hell out of it. If you can, grind the teeth off of a blade for an electric hand jigsaw and tape your paint container to it, and let it go at half power for around 30 seconds. This works well for any paint jar or bottle.
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May 26, 2016 14:51
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Threezero is making a 1/12th scale Scopedog
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May 26, 2016 17:15
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I for one am glad that Bandai is bringing a body-positive Dadbod robot to the 1/12th scale
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May 26, 2016 18:28
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Neurolimal posted:I for one am glad that Bandai is bringing a body-positive Dadbod robot to the 1/12th scale Is it body-positive if one of them explodes every thirty seconds?
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May 26, 2016 18:31
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Darth Walrus posted:Is it body-positive if one of them explodes every thirty seconds? Only if the explosion isn't because of their beer bellies.
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May 26, 2016 18:34
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Neurolimal posted:I for one am glad that Bandai is bringing a body-positive Dadbod robot to the 1/12th scale Threezero
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May 26, 2016 18:34
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I'm unfamiliar with Threezero, but I do know ThreeA and I think they're kind of related, but that's about all I know. Are they particularly good? I know I've wanted the ThreeA REX for forever, and that it's pretty amazing, but when I think Scopedog, my mind just immediately defaults to Sentinel being the perfect guys to make it.
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May 26, 2016 18:35
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:I'm unfamiliar with Threezero, but I do know ThreeA and I think they're kind of related, but that's about all I know. Are they particularly good? I know I've wanted the ThreeA REX for forever, and that it's pretty amazing, but when I think Scopedog, my mind just immediately defaults to Sentinel being the perfect guys to make it. It's the same company, basically, just that ThreeA is the label they release Ashley Wood stuff under, and Threezero is their licensed stuff. If you want an idea of the Scopedog will look like painted, here's their Titanfall robot 
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May 26, 2016 18:38
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It'll be okay. Don't mistake Bandai's level to be everyone else's, they're ahead of the curve by a ton.
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May 26, 2016 18:38
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BlitzBlast posted:It'll be okay. Don't mistake Bandai's level to be everyone else's, they're ahead of the curve by a ton. Bandai doesn't really make things on ThreeA/zero's level, that I'm aware of. Figuarts are great, but they don't have cloth clothes. Look at Chirico's jodhpurs, for crying out loud. Threezero's problems are high cost and limited availability.
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May 26, 2016 18:44
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Wait, it's a figure? And here I thought they were making a model kit. Alas.
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May 26, 2016 22:08
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Well, it's more 'toy' than 'figure' but they do some good work, but they're also usually hugely expensive and they make some questionable decisions (did anyone really want a big green REX?). I'm firmly in the 'wait for a price and paintjob' class, for something that I'd be a guaranteed sale on for a kit.
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May 26, 2016 22:14
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:(did anyone really want a big green REX?). Assuming that having REXes of all shapes and sizes is not just and proper.
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May 26, 2016 22:37
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I just wanted a straight-out-of-MGS REX, not a jungle camo  Speaking of things that have ludicrously large guns and radomes:  Head, upper/lower torso, chest... thing, left and right arms, I-Field generator, main gun, radome, backpack, and stand are finished. 11/18 steps done, finally getting there.  Unfortunately this leaves me with the waist, 2x leg thrusters, 2x main thrusters, gun, and verniers. And all but the gun and verniers are hilariously parts heavy, and the verniers, for being one step, still involves building four of them.  And then there's the decals, because I am basically going to glue this thing in when I put everything together, so I'm gonna decal everything up first before I do the final assembly and 
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May 28, 2016 00:31
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Anyone built the IBO 1/100s? How are they? The working gimmicks and improved part separation do look very promising.
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May 28, 2016 00:44
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They're neat. Pick em up.
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May 28, 2016 00:47
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:I just wanted a straight-out-of-MGS REX, not a jungle camo It doesn't look that far off to me  
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May 28, 2016 00:47
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Darth Walrus posted:Anyone built the IBO 1/100s? How are they? The working gimmicks and improved part separation do look very promising. they're fun, but color separation isn't always perfect and many of them have quite a few stickers
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May 28, 2016 00:47
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boom boom boom posted:It doesn't look that far off to me Huh, the one I remember seeing was super green. Maybe it was a special version of the fullsize one or something.
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May 28, 2016 00:53
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Work in progress on that MG Hi-Nu Gundam I got a while back:  Decided against trying to do anything crazy with it (unless you count the striped shield as crazy) - just spray painted the bluish-purple parts black and adding light weathering.
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May 28, 2016 03:20
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I like the purple 'cos it's unique, but black looks really good on that thing.
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May 28, 2016 03:56
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I'm finishing up this real grade Wing Gundam EW, and I'm finding that the Action Base 2 connector doesn't attach solidly to the crotch---there is a ton of play. It works just fine when attaching to the backpack, however. Since other RG gundams have the same crotch connector, maybe someone knows--is this a known issue, is something hosed up with my parts, or did I gently caress up my parts by trying to get them to connect the wrong way?
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May 28, 2016 04:29
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 154 parts for 12 small parts. Goddammit Mechanicore, you're killing me here. And they're so insanely detailed that even someone like me who models for god more often than not isn't gonna bother panel lining all of it until I know exactly what's gonna be showing because gently caress that. TaurusOxford posted:Work in progress on that MG Hi-Nu Gundam I got a while back: Very nice Matsumoto Custom you've got there 
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May 28, 2016 04:53
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G-Reco got a movie or something announced, so maybe it's finally loving time for MG G-Self.
BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 06:38 on May 28, 2016 |
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May 28, 2016 06:36
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