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Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Did you leave the wedge bars in? Also, sometimes they just do what they want. I've heard of removing comb and attaching it where you want with rubber bands, but I wouldn't do that myself. They all have starter strips in, I'm going today and try putting on full frame of foundation in to give them a start.
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Apr 24, 2016 06:38
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I'm that rear end in a top hat who says "nah I don't need a $50 starter course, I'll just read the book and get me some". I'm getting conflicting info on the following two things: 1. Entrance reducer: keep it small for the first few days after relocating bees? 2. Brush to obscure entrance - helps bees reorient themselves and realize "oh hey I'm somewhere new"? 
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Apr 24, 2016 14:25
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If they've been moved quite a way a bush isn't really required. If they are a small hive it's worth keeping the reducer in so they can defend easier. Once they build up open the door some more.
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Apr 24, 2016 15:01
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Yeah, I'd use a reducer until you feel the hive is strong, especially if you have hive beetles in your region and/or another nearby hive (sometimes they'll rob a weaker hive). If you're in a part of the world where it's mid-Spring, I'd just use the bigger opening on the reducer though. Also, check in a week or so and verify you got eggs/larvae so you know your queen is there and fertilized. And I've always done the brush if I move them more than a few feet. It's not going to hurt anything and makes me not worry about them resetting their "BeePS". Also, I have some screen that I use push tacks to secure instead of the duct tape job. Though now that I'm catching swarms like an idiot I invested in a nuc box which has a flap to close the front.
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Apr 24, 2016 16:40
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Tally posted:If they've been moved quite a way a bush isn't really required. If they are a small hive it's worth keeping the reducer in so they can defend easier. Once they build up open the door some more. Thanks! I'll leave the reducer in for now. Should I move it to the larger opening after a couple of days? Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Yeah, I'd use a reducer until you feel the hive is strong, especially if you have hive beetles in your region and/or another nearby hive (sometimes they'll rob a weaker hive). If you're in a part of the world where it's mid-Spring, I'd just use the bigger opening on the reducer though. Also, check in a week or so and verify you got eggs/larvae so you know your queen is there and fertilized. And I've always done the brush if I move them more than a few feet. It's not going to hurt anything and makes me not worry about them resetting their "BeePS". Thanks! I'll probably take the brush off in a couple of days so I can see them. I know there are hive beetles around, but no competing hives AFAIK. I've got some beetle bait and I'll be making CD case traps for them. Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Also, I have some screen that I use push tacks to secure instead of the duct tape job. Though now that I'm catching swarms like an idiot I invested in a nuc box which has a flap to close the front. The guy that sold me the bees did that *shrug* Another question - I'm not going to open them for 7 days so they can settle in. At that point, I'll look for new wax on the other 5 frames. If there is no new wax, I'll start feeding with the standard jar + holes upside down in the top of the box. Does that sound good?
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Apr 24, 2016 19:09
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BrianBoitano posted:Thanks! I'll leave the reducer in for now. Should I move it to the larger opening after a couple of days? When you open them up and thing the hive is strong open it up some more.
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Apr 24, 2016 20:17
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I'm in Nashville if that gives you any idea of the type of weather I deal with, but I only use the small entrance with caught swarms and during Winter. The rest of the time it's large opening or FLY FLY MY PRETTIES!!!! You'll usually want the reducer off during your honey flow period. But I really think it falls more under personal preference, but you want your honeys to be able to get out and get water, forage, poop, etc. I would leave it sealed like 3 days tops, but honestly, I've never left them sealed for a full day. I just move them during early evening after they all come in for the night and seal them, then unseal them after I get up in the morning. Just because I'm unsure if we're on the same page, I mean "sealed" as in "they can't get out at all", not using an entrance reducer. Also, if you're feeding, you know about the ones you can feed from the top of the hive? Much less robbing and attracting other stuff that way. EDIT: Never mind, I'm being dumb and you meant open them as in inspect them and not seal them up like some kind of horror movie for bees. (IT PUTS THE HONEY IN THE BASKET) Yeah, leave them for a week or so, then look for eggs. They'll look like tiny pieces of rice. Then you know that you got a queen, and that she's fertilized (another reason to let them fly so she can have her "nupital flight"). If you see rice (or even better larvae if you don't have a nuc), you can stop looking as you're wanting to know if you got a queen and she's laying more than anything else at the start. If you got two boxes, the eggs should be on the bottom one. Sinister_Beekeeper fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Apr 24, 2016 |
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Apr 24, 2016 20:32
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Been a bit since I posted in here. Our bees did not survive over winter. All indications are that they starved. Lots of bees dead in individual cells.  Something then got into the top bar and ate a bunch of them. Not to be discouraged, we are trying again this year with six hives. Got six boxes of bees from an apiary from down near Anchorage. They arrived last week.  We cleaned out the two hives at my mothers in preparation for the new bees. There was still a lot of snow on the ground, and it was in the 40s temperature wise when we got there, so these bees were pretty cold and inactive. Made moving them to their new homes quick and easy.   This year, we also set up a couple of hives at Sarah's mother's place. She lives on about 14 acres of land and had a nice spot in the trees next to a field. Lots of wild rose bushes among the trees, and the fields will likely see a bunch of fireweed later in the season.  Sarah got the job of dumpin' bees into the top bar.  For some reason, they really, REALLY liked her shoulders. This was one of the weirdest things I think I've seen.  We also now have hives at our house. We moved into a new place at the start of the month, and the landlord thought the idea of keeping bees was cool. Helps that the landlord is Sarah's aunt.  So we have a couple hives in the trees behind the place. Like the two other locations, there is a Langstroth and a top bar.   Checked on all the hives recently, and they are already packing away pollen and nectar (where they're getting it is a mystery to me.) Lots of larva, too. We marked the queens this year, as we sucked at finding them last year. So far, we can spot them pretty quick, which is nice. I suspect it will get harder as the colonies reach their max population, but we'll see. We've dug up a sizable portion of the yard (yes, also with landlord approval!) and will soon be putting in a veggie garden. Will be nice to have pollinators nearby. Hope to see our girls at work!
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Apr 28, 2016 21:21
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Hi thread, I've read/skimmed my way through here in the past week, and I've been poking around at a couple of other websites as well. I'm moving to Pittsburgh shortly and while I gather it's too late to start this year I'd like to have all my ducks in a row for my best friend and I to work with the urban beekeeping group there and start a hive next spring (urban space permitting obviously.) Having enough honey to sell some would be cool but for my part if there's enough surplus for our personal use and to do a bit of mead making I'll be plenty happy. I guess I'm looking for some perspective; I read about top bar and Langstroth hives and think "oh that sounds cool/like a hassle/like bullshit" and while I can sift out "commune with bees"-type woo pretty well I think, I'm not so sure about the practical parts. These are the things that kind of jump out at me, but I'd be happy to be corrected: Top bar Pro: Cheaper up front P: Less heavy lifting P: Fewer components Con: Messy, wasteful honey extraction C maybe  : Bees don't like them sometimes (often?)Langstroth P: Readily modular/expandable P: Ubiquitous P: More thorough extraction (assuming access to an extractor) P: Return extracted comb to the hive C: Full hive boxes heavy/unwieldy C maybe : More stuff (spare frames, boxes, foundation, etc) to fiddle with and storeEd: clarity the yeti fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Apr 29, 2016 |
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Apr 29, 2016 04:41
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I'll take a stab at that one, Yeti, since I do both. All this is from my experience, and as such, anecdotal. Top bar - I'll give you messy extraction, but not wasteful. We got quite a bit of honey out of our top bar last year. Crushing the comb really does a good job of getting as much as possible. But to add to your pros and cons: Pros: Very simple, can be made with whatever wood you have sitting around Cheaper, both upfront and in the long run. No foundation to buy, ever. More wax (if that's your thing) Cons: Cross comb. Oh god, the cross comb. Bees can and will build comb between bars, even properly sized ones. Less honey, since the bees have to put more energy into comb building Langstroth - You got the pros down pretty well, so I'll just add some missing cons. Cons: More costly. Even if you build them yourself, you'll need different woods for hive body and frames, plus foundation. More complex, more parts. Less wax (if that's your thing...) In the end, though, I'm happy as long as the bees are doing what bees do. While I'm not quite a "commune with the bees" guy, I have to say I'm not doing this for profit. I build the hives 'cause I just like to build things and improve my skills. I've seen no difference in the attitudes of the bees between the hives (although the top bar did seem more susceptible to robbing last year). I like the top bar a lot primarily because it seems more natural, and I love the way the comb looks. If I were doing this as a honey business, I'd likely just stick to Langstroths. More initial cost investment, but more honey in the end.
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Apr 29, 2016 23:22
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Thanks FuzzyBuddha, that's all really helpful! Honestly I'd probably way more sanguine abut the prospect of ongoing parts to fabricate and assemble if I actually had a workshop and tools; as it is though it'd mean buying more things readymade, which 
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Apr 30, 2016 01:56
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I'd never suggest someone try to make their own Langstroth frames unless they are sure they are a very capable woodworker and I'm not sure I'd do it then either. I've never known anyone personally with a non-Langstroth, so I really have nothing useful to contribute there that wasn't already said. I'd be slightly concerned about the opening size at the top at some points of the year, but that seems like the sort of thing that would depend more on the bees involved, where you're at, phase of Moon, etc. I'm pretty sure I'd be fishing out even more hive beetles and wasps in the Fall with a bigger enterway. One thing I will add though is to take the weight of full Langstroth boxes into account before you get them. I went with all mediums and yeah, I need more boxes, but I was also able to move them easily while recovering from a botched surgery.
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May 1, 2016 03:15
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Sinister_Beekeeper posted:I'd never suggest someone try to make their own Langstroth frames unless they are sure they are a very capable woodworker and I'm not sure I'd do it then either. I bought 10 medium super frames but now you've got me interested in replacing one of them with a homemade thing because why not. It's no way near worth it cost-wise, but the closest bee supply is 70 minutes away so it'd be nice to know if I can make my own. I'm building up my brood population before building the medium super box, so I'll report back when their brood box is full and it's honey super time. Sinister_Beekeeper posted:I've never known anyone personally with a non-Langstroth, so I really have nothing useful to contribute there that wasn't already said. I'd be slightly concerned about the opening size at the top at some points of the year, but that seems like the sort of thing that would depend more on the bees involved, where you're at, phase of Moon, etc. One of the people in my local group said I would stress and might potentially kill my bees if I restricted their opening in our 95°F heat. I'm sure some of that was hyperbole, but I took the restrictor off anyhow. Time to play find-the-queen!  middle-bottom Also, when I first took this picture, I did it just for the queen. I finished my entire inspection (which took me over an hour since I had to refill and re-light my smoker and I'm super new) thinking she wasn't laying or just that I'm bad at finding eggs. Then, I looked at the picture, and I see the eggs! I blame the light-colored foundation 
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May 1, 2016 18:42
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How do top bars work with syrup feeders and queen excluders?
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May 2, 2016 03:20
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Just finished my 2nd inspection. 13 days after buying a nuc, my 5 new frames are all at about 70-80% full, a mix of brood and honey. Should I go for another brood box next week or straight to honey supers? Nectar flow seems good where I am, apparently. I'm in Northern Florida, if that makes a difference. Ninja edit: Also, my DIY hive beetle trap with CD cases and roach bait is working well! Didn't see any alive this time, and had 5 corpses in one of the traps.
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May 7, 2016 16:27
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So how many/what size boxes do you have right now? Sinister_Beekeeper fucked around with this message at 17:16 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 17:12
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Sinister_Beekeeper posted:So how many/what size boxes do you have right now? One brood box total. It's the largest standard size, I think 11"ish? E: Langstroth if that wasn't obvious BrianBoitano fucked around with this message at 18:22 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 17:42
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Using langstroth, you normally use one deep or two mediums for the brood chamber, and then stack honey supers (strongly strongly recommend just mediums) on top. Optionally a queen excluder between the brood chamber and the supers. You could add like a small on top of the deep if you really wanted to but if you were gonna do that, you shoulda just used two mediums to begin with. I think you should be OK with just the deep, though, that's plenty of room for a hive. I'm assuming you have 8 to 10 frames in a 10-frame deep, right? (I was taught to use 8 frames with a follower board on each side, which allows for good ventilation along each side, but I'm in California where it can get above 100 a few days a year so ventilation is important; you might not need this if you're in a cooler climate). I think there are 12-frame Langstroths, too, YMMV. And, a Deep langstroth should be 9 5/8" to 9 9/16" deep inside. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Langstroth_hive#Hive_body_and_hive_super Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:20 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 18:16
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I'd recommend mediums for everything at this point. If you want to rotate frames, having everything be the same size is nice. I like to use foundation or previously drawn comb except for leaving an empty frame in each hive for drone comb so it just makes my life easier. But I'm also recovering from a surgery and got another coming up, so weight is definitely a consideration. The thought of moving a deep full of honey or possibly sassy bees isn't very pleasant. Whatever you go with, keep in mind any swarm cups are going to usually be on the bottom of your first honey super (they're trying to keep them away from the existing queen so she doesn't destroy them). They like to put them at the border between honey and brood. Saw my new queen for my problem hive chewing out of her capped cell earlier so I'm glad I looked before trying to locate a queen from someone. And I've got another great hive this week made up of two caught swarms (one was missing a queen so I merged them).
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May 7, 2016 19:21
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So my husband and I started from scratch, installing bees on April 10th into frames with no comb. It has been almost a month and they only have three frames dawn out, with capped cells and larvae. Shouldn't they be further along? The weather here in CT has been "meh". We have been feeding them and we have been seeing them comb back with pollen.
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May 8, 2016 20:01
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You should see a spike when you start getting new bees since younger bees are usually better at drawing comb. Also, they'll need more room and produce wax accordingly.
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May 9, 2016 02:45
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Woo hoo! so I just got the go-ahead at work (a livestock rescue / educational farm) to start research and work into getting some hives. North Florida, suburban/commercial area (it's a weird old multi-zoned area, 40 years ago it was all sugar cane), but I think i'm gonna fence off an area of horse pasture and plant wildflowers/create a horse-free hive area. Boss's in-laws are also beekeepers, so free mentorship!
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May 10, 2016 02:05
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This is the bottom deep of a langstroth, there is another one above this that they haven't built on yet, but instead of moving to the next box, they seem to just want to build up above the frames. Is there a way to get these guys to stop building up from the frame?
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May 25, 2016 01:45
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Do you have a drone frame? If not, and you're using regular foundation, just put an empty frame in and they'll take care of it.
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May 25, 2016 03:55
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Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Do you have a drone frame?
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May 27, 2016 21:18
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Got my beehive from a local beekeeper around here. It's a paradise poly, top beespace National but I've got it setup as a Smith just now. Going to build a stand for it on Monday
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May 28, 2016 12:31
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Aramoro posted:Got my beehive from a local beekeeper around here. Let us know how it goes. I love seeing new hive types. Finally met some locals with top bars, and not a single one kept a hive in one over Winter, so seems like another reason to not suggest them for new folks. Discomancer posted:That was a great idea, thanks! When they want drone comb, they want drone comb. Just be sure to check that frame when you're inspecting for varroa since the larger cells/longer development time make varroa gravitate there. I've now lost three queens in my two backyard hives this year, though two were likely up there in age (one was a swarm queen I caught in the early Spring). Our cold, wet Spring has been really rough on queens though as other locals seem to be having a lot of issues with new queens not mating successfully (it's been raining a lot). I just let them requeen themselves if possible as I figure they know what they want more than me even though I'm sure it'd be more effective to get a queen for them. I'm hoping to harvest some honey in late June and I'll be sure to post some pics of my haul. Playing it by ear since I got one last surgery to go that I'm likely doing in a few weeks.
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May 28, 2016 20:55
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Queen excluder screen or no? I bought one because I thought I'd need one (one brood box and one medium honey super, most strategies for keeping queen out of honey supers require moving her brood box down, which doesn't work with only one brood box), but now my bees don't seem interested in it. There are plenty of workers up there, but not drawing any foundation out after a week and a half. The brood box is pretty much full (half of it honey):  And I just noticed they may be drawing out comb beneath the entrance, since I have an overhang there due to my sloppy cinderblock "stand":  Unfocused night shot - are they supposed to be outside at night?:  That was around 10 PM, ~80 degrees F. Now that I've done some reading, some people call an excluder a "honey excluder" since workers don't really like to go through it. Could this be why they're (maybe? Hard to tell without getting right there) drawing comb under the entrance? Unfortunately I can't inspect them again until Saturday due to work hours. BrianBoitano fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jun 1, 2016 |
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Jun 1, 2016 19:05
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Only time mine have been out that much that late at night was when they were wanting to swarm, but everything else you're describing makes that sound really unlikely. As a friend told me "bees didn't read the bee books". Sometimes, they'll just do what they want. I've never had a hive that didn't overhang off the front, so that shouldn't be an issue. Is their stand pretty much level and stable? Do you have any brood? I'm wondering if you got a queen there. Also, can you verify if there is comb under their hive? If so, that's pretty weird and you might want to relocate them a least a little bit since there could be something making them not want to stay in the box. You can also try lightly spraying a little sugar water with maybe a drop or two of something like lemongrass oil extract onto a frame to see if you can entice them. But drawing out large amounts of comb doesn't happen until you get a critical mass of bees going, so don't get discouraged unless they aren't drawing any at all. What's usually happened for me is they knock out a frame or two, then when the brood from those frames hatch, maybe get another frame started, etc. but it will eventually snowball when the population is good. I'm bouncing in and out of long, exciting medical adventures atm, but worst case, shoot me a pm if you need to as I usually have my phone and can get internet.
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Jun 1, 2016 19:32
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Sinister_Beekeeper posted:I've never had a hive that didn't overhang off the front, so that shouldn't be an issue. Is their stand pretty much level and stable? Do you have any brood? I'm wondering if you got a queen there. Pretty much level and stable, yes. I didn't find uncapped brood in the first 5 frames I inspected, and they started getting really mad with me and smoke didn't seem to calm them very well so I stopped my inspection. I believe the following show capped brood: (bottom-left)   Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Also, can you verify if there is comb under their hive? If so, that's pretty weird and you might want to relocate them a least a little bit since there could be something making them not want to stay in the box. You can also try lightly spraying a little sugar water with maybe a drop or two of something like lemongrass oil extract onto a frame to see if you can entice them. But drawing out large amounts of comb doesn't happen until you get a critical mass of bees going, so don't get discouraged unless they aren't drawing any at all. What's usually happened for me is they knock out a frame or two, then when the brood from those frames hatch, maybe get another frame started, etc. but it will eventually snowball when the population is good. I'll check if it's comb under the hive right when I get home today, but like I said it's kinda late so they may be guarding it. I'd say they have enough workers to draw out the honey supers - I'm just confused why they aren't. Using https://this, I'd estimate I have 10 frames of the following density:  Which would be ~1000 bees per side, or 20,000 overall. Then, I'd say there's about half that density in the honey supers, so probably another 6,000. Finally, there's surely more bees foraging elsewhere. Hope your medical adventures end well and soon!
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Jun 1, 2016 21:27
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Yeah, that looks like capped brood, but look at the middle bottom of the first capped brood pic (the one with capped honey). http://i.imgur.com/Ktzoax9.jpg Looks like a supersedure cell. Is there a thing that looks like a peanut hanging out the side there? It's a capped queen they likely made because an emergency need for a queen (tl;dr queen's likely gone/dead). Leave them alone until she can hatch/do a mating flight. So try to not open the box for at least two weeks from today (I'd likely do 2 1/2 weeks. You can read up on queen lifecycles if you need to see what I'm talking about) and let them do their thing. Sinister_Beekeeper fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jun 1, 2016 |
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Jun 1, 2016 22:59
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Has anyone else had problems with Betterbee? After waiting two weeks for the extractor FedEx destroyed, they apparently waited until they got it back before sending another one even though FedEx told them they had a smashed one coming back. So three weeks later, and I'm sitting here waiting. Given how much they charge on shipping, it's pretty lame that they are taking so long to fix a screw up. I was just wondering if this was a fluke, or if I needed to avoid them in the future (even though I'm pretty inclined to do so anyway at this point).
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Jun 27, 2016 21:53
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Alright, brand new here, looking for advice on whether I should attempt this with my location. I live on 9 acres, including some flowering trees and a 1 acre pond surrounded by mature trees. My land is mostly horse pasture, but I back up to several hundred acres of woods, swamp, and streams. The bad: on the other side of my property is farmland as far as you can see. Corn, soybean, cotton, peanuts in rotation and they actively spray with insecticide. Am I boned?
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Jun 29, 2016 19:12
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angryrobots posted:Alright, brand new here, looking for advice on whether I should attempt this with my location. Without knowing what they're spraying, I really couldn't tell you. While insecticides will obviously harm/kill bees, there is also a lot of scaremongering about it. Basically any pesticides not on flowering plants is very unlikely to affect the bees since they're obviously not eating leaves, roots, etc. Depending on how well you know your neighbors, they might do things to minimize risks since the bees will make their lives a little easier.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:47
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Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Without knowing what they're spraying, I really couldn't tell you. While insecticides will obviously harm/kill bees, there is also a lot of scaremongering about it. Basically any pesticides not on flowering plants is very unlikely to affect the bees since they're obviously not eating leaves, roots, etc. Depending on how well you know your neighbors, they might do things to minimize risks since the bees will make their lives a little easier. On the other hand, understand that bees will range at least a mile around their hive, sometimes more, so despite the size of your property there probably isn't a location you can put your hive where they won't be exposed at all to insecticides. And if they're dusting those crops from the air, probably your entire property is exposed to some level of the pesticides. You could try a hive right up against the property line as far away from the dusted fields as possible, and see how it goes.
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Jun 30, 2016 01:18
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Right, pretty much what I was afraid of (that we'd have to try it and see), which is not a great proposition for me, with the monetary and time investment to get going. However, I mentioned this to my wife, and she noticed there's some bee boxes down the road on some property right smack in the middle of the fields. So I'll try to talk to the people who live there and see how they're making it.
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Jun 30, 2016 03:34
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So I finally got my hive installed and bee's setup inside. As I said I'm using a Paradise Poly Hive (BeeBox), I installed a 6 Frame Nuc into the box with 4 foundation DN4 frames and a super with 10 SN4 frames with a Rapid Feeder (1:1 solution just now)  The were a bit desperate for water so I constructed them a small rock pool to help them stop drowning themselves  The weather has been pretty poor for the last 2 weeks sadly and they've so far only drawn out 1/2 of 1 of the frames that I added. But the Queen is still laying and there's plenty of food in the frames that are there so hopefully the weather will improve and they'll get a bit of a flow on.
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Jun 30, 2016 10:30
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How do you convince a stressed hive to draw out more comb? I've got 2 feeders with 1 pint 1:1 sugar water and 1 tsp Bee Healthy in each and a water source nearby. They got honey locked and the queen has nowhere to lay. If they haven't drawn out more comb by Sunday I may harvest some honey from one of the mostly-honey brood frames, just so she will have empty cells to lay in.
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Jun 30, 2016 15:06
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BrianBoitano posted:How do you convince a stressed hive to draw out more comb? Do they have any frames which are all stores? If they do then you could try inserting an empty frame between that frame and the brood. That should encourage them to draw out that frame. Mine are only drawing out one side of the frames so I'm turning them around and rotating their positions to try and get them to draw them out well.
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Jun 30, 2016 15:11
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Replace some honey frames so they get more room for laying. Most of the time, you'll just need enough bees to draw out the comb. It's like you have to hit a certain population for them to go "out hey, we need more comb" and get to work. And yeah, what Aramoro was suggesting works too.
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Jun 30, 2016 15:53
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