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boom boom boom posted:Somebody 3D-printed a 1/12th scale Mobile Worker Now do the Gjallarhorn one. 
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Jun 4, 2016 20:15
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Darth Walrus posted:Now do the Gjallarhorn one. No, now set up an ecommerce site so I can get one!
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Jun 5, 2016 03:59
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 Finished the main body of the RG Zaku II. This thing can crouch like a pro. Puts Ez8 and the MK II to shame in that category. There were some fiddly bits I decided to superglue around the wrists, but once I get the weapons finished it remains to be seen how well that patch job will hold up. Also, the feet are super articulated, so sometimes it's a bit tricky to get a flat contact point. But I love the spring cables for the leg tubes, and the fact that the mono=eye self swivels when you move the head. Gonna decal and panel line it next.
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Jun 5, 2016 05:12
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I picked up some tamiya plastic cement today, and took a shot at seam removal. A couple of the seams in the feet still had a tiny gap left over afterwards, so I shaved off the edge of the label-panel on the runner that the part came from, and wedged that into the gap and welded it in there too. After shaving off the remainder and sanding it, it didn't look awful!. Is there a better way to fill tiny gaps, or am I on the right track?
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Jun 5, 2016 05:34
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I like the tamiya putty for tiny gaps like that.
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Jun 5, 2016 05:36
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I like Mr. Surfacer 1000 in the bottle for filling hairline gaps. Also, it's very important to let cement welds cure fully before sanding them down.
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Jun 5, 2016 09:48
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I'm panel lining the Jesta and... it all seems pointless? Stuff shows up on the light grey but on the navy plastic I'm using black and I can barely see it. Are there any tricks for dark kits or is it just "super subtle is fine"?
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Jun 6, 2016 13:29
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Yawgmoft posted:I'm panel lining the Jesta and... it all seems pointless? Stuff shows up on the light grey but on the navy plastic I'm using black and I can barely see it. Are there any tricks for dark kits or is it just "super subtle is fine"? For something that dark there's no real way to make panel lines obvious. Subtle is fine unless you want to try and panel line the navy blue with something like silver.
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Jun 6, 2016 13:35
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Silver panel lining is actually pretty nice looking IMO though, so try that.
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Jun 6, 2016 14:49
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Gundam Info is currently holding a poll for which Impulse variant people'd like to see in HGCE next. It's the little bar on the left, if you're unfamiliar with the website. Current rankings as of this post: 1. Destiny Impulse (352) 2. Sword Impulse (262) 3. Impulse Gundam Blanche (70) [literally just a white Destiny Impulse R) 4. Gaia Impulse (61) 5. Destiny Impulse R (38) 6. Abyss Impulse (36) 7. Chaos Impulse (32) Bandai better not be screwing with me here, Sword is inevitable so I need a HGCE Destiny Impulse to complete my collection. 
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Jun 6, 2016 23:13
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Not surprised, I'm aware of the Sword and Destiny Impulse but the rest of those may as well be new to me. Not to mention, HGCE Destiny Gundam is as inevitable as taxes.
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Jun 6, 2016 23:23
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Sweet Christ the shipping box the PG unicorn comes in is massive
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Jun 6, 2016 23:56
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Ignimbrite posted:Sweet Christ the shipping box the PG unicorn comes in is massive Hell yeah, big box buddies.  
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Jun 7, 2016 00:07
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Jun 7, 2016 00:30
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A box big enough to bury yourself in once you die of shame.
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Jun 7, 2016 00:50
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Bimmi posted:A box big enough to bury yourself in once you die of shame. I've seen a Neo Zeong box in person and can confirm you could probably hide a body in it.
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Jun 7, 2016 00:55
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Bimmi posted:A box big enough to bury yourself in once you die of shame. Only if it were MG.
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Jun 7, 2016 00:57
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So, I'd like to start doing gunpla for real, graduating from pure snap together stuff. Where's the best place to start? And by that, I mean tutorials and kits themselves. Should I go for an HG, SD, or lower(I'm not sure if I want to practice with MG money)? And are there any tutorials that are highly recommended, rather than random vids on youtube and text writeups?
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Jun 7, 2016 09:35
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Postal Parcel posted:So, I'd like to start doing gunpla for real, graduating from pure snap together stuff. If you want a cheap starter kit, get yourself an HG Hi-Mock. It's a nice fun simple build, and a neat kit you can slap a lot of accessories onto.
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Jun 7, 2016 10:16
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Postal Parcel posted:So, I'd like to start doing gunpla for real, graduating from pure snap together stuff. I'd personally recommend you stick with HG for practice. Are you looking to get into painting or modding or just want to get better at cutting nubs, applying decals, and panel lines? If you like the IBO designs their HG line is a good stepping stone between HG and MG. Also stead clear of the Real Grade line if you don't feel confident, as those kits have tiny pieces that can cause big problems if lost or broken or put in wrong.
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Jun 7, 2016 10:25
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Definitely practice painting/washes/panel lining on HGs, preferably the cheapest ones you can get. You're going to gently caress up a lot at the start and there's no point wasting money on expensive kits that you'll then trash. 
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Jun 7, 2016 10:52
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Sazabi posted:I'd personally recommend you stick with HG for practice. Are you looking to get into painting or modding or just want to get better at cutting nubs, applying decals, and panel lines? If you like the IBO designs their HG line is a good stepping stone between HG and MG. One note on the IBO HG line - do not assume that this post means the 1/144s are significantly more difficult to assemble than a standard HG. They're ridiculously cheap and ridiculously easy.
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Jun 7, 2016 11:39
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Sazabi posted:I'd personally recommend you stick with HG for practice. Are you looking to get into painting or modding or just want to get better at cutting nubs, applying decals, and panel lines? If you like the IBO designs their HG line is a good stepping stone between HG and MG. Painting/Seam Sealing Removing nubs is no problem and on some of the smaller models I have, I've sanded them down before. I just never had the tools or knowledge of putties/glues that can hide seams and stuff. So, I'll try some of those kits, thanks!
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Jun 7, 2016 12:19
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There was a website that did a build along of the HG sinanju where the author presented a number of advanced techniques and readers were encouraged to follow along with their own kits. It was posted in the thread a few months ago but I don't have a link handy.
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Jun 7, 2016 12:24
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Postal Parcel posted:Painting/Seam Sealing If you want to do that, forget modern kits, start looking for older ones. They're great practice for seam welding. I recommend the 1/100 Gundam X line.
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Jun 7, 2016 12:42
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Midjack posted:There was a website that did a build along of the HG sinanju where the author presented a number of advanced techniques and readers were encouraged to follow along with their own kits. It was posted in the thread a few months ago but I don't have a link handy. Got it here. http://goodguydangunpla.blogspot.ca/2012/05/hguc-sinanju-project-start-to-finish.html?m=1
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Jun 7, 2016 13:28
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This is a good PDF with a shitload of techniques in it. I don't do a lot of these things because I have enough trouble finishing a snap-built kit as it is, but if you get good at the stuff in here you'll be building really good looking models. http://funakatown.com/images/Building_Gunpla_Final.pdf
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Jun 7, 2016 13:57
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Postal Parcel posted:Painting/Seam Sealing Tamiya Putty, modeling Epoxy putty, and Plastic Cement are all good seam hiders. Their application is pretty simple too: fill in the seam (dont be afraid to overfill), then sand off the excess. For a nice smooth finish you'll want some high grit sanding materials; keep in mind that normal sandpaper is more reusable than aluminum oxide paper (though the latter is easier to find in higher grits outside of model brands). For Epoxy and Tamiya putty you'll want to apply them on models you're going to paint, unless you like putty-colored lines (and in the Tamiya putty's defense, its dark and works well for a weathered 'n filthy look). As for tools, you'll get a lot of mileage out of a quality X-Acto knife, a chisel or panel liner, a ruler, some styrene, and a set of drill heads. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 18:07
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The third-party 1/100 Moebius Zero is a kit made of hot garbage, the plastic is softer than a fresh-baked dinner roll, and the molding colors are ugly and indistinct. The moving parts intersect physically so any paint job will inevitably scrape off, but damned if it doesn't have fun opportunities for detailing. The base color is Alclad steel, topcoated with Mr. Color GX clear thinned for airbrushing and let to dry for around 15 minutes. The panel wash is Model Masters steel. Gotta love the two-tone metal colors.  The verniers are painted on the outside with Model Masters Metallizer Burnt Metal, the base of the thruster assembly is Alclad steel, the piston housings are Model Masters Steel (toothpicks/small brushes), and the pistons themselves are Model Masters Chrome Silver (again, toothpicks). The Model Masters are enamels, save for the Metallizer, which is lacquer, and are very good for bare-metal handbrush detail painting. Mr. Metal Color has a better finish but is thin to the point where a toothpick can't be used, and it LOVES to flow into stuff when brushed on. Those mini verniers, though? Not even a Godhand nipper gave a clean cut, and the plastic was so soft that trimming with an Xacto gave the results you see. They're too small to hold for sanding - they're maybe 4mm, 5mm at their widest point, which is exactly where you need to sand. So yeah, those nicks are there to stay. For those who want to venture down the painting route: 10 parts Vallejo bright orange to 1 part Vallejo sky gray gives a much more accurate orange color than the dull pale orange in kit plastic. MJP fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 19:29
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I ordered a Tamiya craft knife from amazon, and then once I realized it was being shipped from Japan I ordered another one that would be here in 2 days. However, the first order just arrived and it's TINY. It turns out I ordered two different knives. From top to bottom: a standard #11 hobby blade, the Tamiya 74040 and the Tamiya 74020.  This 74020 is really great for removing stickers and trimming nubs off curved edges. Obviously it can't reach nubs that aren't on the edges of pieces, but it's already my favorite knife. Slanderer fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 20:23
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Oh, another dumb first-timer question: the foil sticks in this RG kit are really prone to peeling or flaking around the edges. I've replaced a few using offcuts from the borders on the sticker sheet, but there isn't a lot of spare material there. Is there any place to buy foil sticker material in the typical gundam colors (because if so, cutting out replacement stickers would be trivial)? Or would I need to buy just silver sticker-backed foil and color over it with the appropriate marker? Or is the "real" solution just to ditch the foil stickers and use metallic paints?
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Jun 7, 2016 22:38
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Yes, but you could also just glue the stickers on with a glue stick or something.
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Jun 7, 2016 22:50
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Slanderer posted:Oh, another dumb first-timer question: the foil sticks in this RG kit are really prone to peeling or flaking around the edges. I've replaced a few using offcuts from the borders on the sticker sheet, but there isn't a lot of spare material there. Is there any place to buy foil sticker material in the typical gundam colors (because if so, cutting out replacement stickers would be trivial)? Or would I need to buy just silver sticker-backed foil and color over it with the appropriate marker? You might have better luck looking for that stuff at a Michael's or other general arts and crafts store than a regular model shop. I've personally starred doing reverse washing and generally painting my kits whenever I can to avoid stickers. With the exception of the eyes decals. (Maybe I'll post some examples later). But yeah those RG sticker sheets were a nightmare for me too. At least the destiny was.
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Jun 7, 2016 22:50
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I found a piece that I think dropped off of my RG Zaku II, but I looked over the piece list in the instructions, and I looked all over the model, and I can't see where it might have come from. It just dropped into my lap. Arc Hammer fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 23:27
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Is it the same color as the zaku? Can you post a pick? Does it have pegs?
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Jun 7, 2016 23:29
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Sazabi posted:Is it the same color as the zaku? Can you post a pick? Does it have pegs? This is the best picture I could get. I'm not sure what it is. 
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Jun 7, 2016 23:44
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is that the butthole cover for the stand hole
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Jun 8, 2016 00:11
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muike posted:is that the butthole cover for the stand hole No, It's far too small, and the RG Zaku II doesn't have a butthole on the main body. It attaches to one which then attaches to an action base.
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Jun 8, 2016 00:45
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Is it a plug that you have to pull out for the arm or leg inner frame assembly?
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Jun 8, 2016 00:55
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zelah posted:Is it a plug that you have to pull out for the arm or leg inner frame assembly? Might be the one you pull out of the arm assembly. You're probably right it looks like it slots in
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Jun 8, 2016 02:16
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