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Ensign Expendable posted:Yes, unpainted plastic looks different, unless you cover the whole thing in clear varnish. Well I was planning on giving it a matte coat that should pretty much even every thing out right?
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Jul 22, 2016 01:57
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Yup, that'll do the trick.
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Jul 22, 2016 02:07
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Awesome thank you
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Jul 22, 2016 02:08
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Making tracks is usually the worst part of building tanks for me, but my current Stug was surprisingly painfree and quick. It's a Tamiya 1/48 StuG III aufs G that I plan to put shürzen on.
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Jul 22, 2016 07:51
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Looks exactly like the one I built but then never painted or added the fiddly bits to. Was pretty decent as individual links go.
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Jul 22, 2016 08:33
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Arquinsiel posted:Looks exactly like the one I built but then never painted or added the fiddly bits to. Was pretty decent as individual links go. It's not individual links though, maybe 12-14 parts per thread. The great thing was that there was maybe only a one single link piece per thread, while some of my other Tamiya tanks had me assembling maybe 30 pieces per thread, and they ended up being extremely uneven. After the frustration that was my Hobby Boss KV-2 as well, this was amazing.
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Jul 22, 2016 09:30
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Really, I don't remember the Hobby Boss KV-2 being too bad.
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Jul 22, 2016 14:43
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lilljonas posted:It's not individual links though, maybe 12-14 parts per thread. The great thing was that there was maybe only a one single link piece per thread, while some of my other Tamiya tanks had me assembling maybe 30 pieces per thread, and they ended up being extremely uneven. After the frustration that was my Hobby Boss KV-2 as well, this was amazing.
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Jul 22, 2016 18:45
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Finally got an airbrush (cheapo Canadian Tire one). How do I set up a fan and stuff so I don't blow myself up?
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Jul 24, 2016 17:07
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Do you mean a compressor? I didn't know CT sells airbrushes? Anyway, just don't spray lacquers and other flammable paints through a fan, that's about all you really have to do. If you want to spray those types of paints, you have to have a spray booth rated for flammable vapors.
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Jul 25, 2016 03:06
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Do you mean a compressor? I didn't know CT sells airbrushes? I got both a compressor and a double action siphon feed airbrush in the kit. Are you familiar with the compressor? The manual says I can adjust the pressure, but there doesn't seem to be a way to do so, and the compressor refills it to 58 psi. The internet said that acrylic paint should be used at 20-25 psi. Is this fine or do I need to get a regulator? Edit: after reading some reviews, apparently the knob on the moisture trap is how you regulate the pressure, but it runs at 30 psi anyway if you're actually spraying. I guess the only way to find out is to experiment! Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Jul 25, 2016 |
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Jul 25, 2016 04:58
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Do you have a link to the kit you bought? That would help get some solid info on that particular brush and compressor. Which paints are you using as well?
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Jul 25, 2016 05:14
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Different paints (and different airbrushes) require vastly different pressures to spray well. If it doesn't have a decent regulator, then that is probably the first thing you should look at buying and adding to that. The crappy "Model Expo" acrylics I used on my last ship sprayed best when thinned down to the consistency of milk, and needed about 19-22psi. The Vallejo air paints seem to do quite well out of my primary airbrush at closer to 12psi.
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Jul 25, 2016 05:40
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Do you have a link to the kit you bought? That would help get some solid info on that particular brush and compressor. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-air-brush-kit-2991975p.html All the reviews say that the manual is wrong and you can't actually adjust the pressure after all. Apparently you can rig it with a tank and adjust the pressure on that. I have a hilarious mix of various paints, mostly Humbrol acrylic and Tamiya. A brief googling suggests that the Humbrol can be thinned with water for airbrushes and Tamiya can be thinned with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Is that true?
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Jul 25, 2016 20:46
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Hi thread. Been thinking of getting into this hobby for a while, reminds me of putting together random models from the craft store as a kid with my dad. I think 1/72 is the right scale for me as a newbie and someone with little space / frequent mover. I was looking at this kit: https://www.megahobby.com/products/mk-1-stuart-1-72-hasegawa.html and wanted to get feedback on how it would be for a beginner. I looked around for some reviews and I believe I found some for this kit that look like it would be a good fit. I'm open to other suggestions as well; I'm partial to early war armor and afvs in general at the moment. Other than that all the tool suggestions in the op seem straight forward. I think I may hold off on paint until I decide how I find the actual building aspect.
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Jul 25, 2016 21:41
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I'd suggest starting out with wargaming models. They are cheap and simple, since people build entire armies in one go. My first 1:72nd kit was the Pegasus KV set. 10-15 bucks gets you two tanks (KV-1, KV-1E or KV-2) with not too many parts each. Zvezda makes excellent snap together 1:72nd scale tanks specifically targeted at beginners, although they aren't designed for wargaming.
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Jul 25, 2016 21:58
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FastestGunAlive posted:Hi thread. Been thinking of getting into this hobby for a while, reminds me of putting together random models from the craft store as a kid with my dad. I think 1/72 is the right scale for me as a newbie and someone with little space / frequent mover. I was looking at this kit: https://www.megahobby.com/products/mk-1-stuart-1-72-hasegawa.html and wanted to get feedback on how it would be for a beginner. A paint scheme perfectly doable with a brush, no transparancies, you could assemble nearly all of it before painting. Lock n' load, I say FastestGunAlive posted:I'm partial to early war armor and afvs in general at the moment. This is the important bit, follow what you are into
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Jul 25, 2016 22:54
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Ensign Expendable posted:I have a hilarious mix of various paints, mostly Humbrol acrylic and Tamiya. A brief googling suggests that the Humbrol can be thinned with water for airbrushes and Tamiya can be thinned with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Is that true? Pretty sure all acrylic paint should be thinable with water? Is the Tamiya acrylic?
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Jul 26, 2016 00:20
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I think the Hasegawa F-22 that I have might be above my skill level for now. I'm thinking about doing a tank instead. What brands should I look at for my first armor?
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Jul 26, 2016 00:20
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FastestGunAlive posted:Hi thread. Been thinking of getting into this hobby for a while, reminds me of putting together random models from the craft store as a kid with my dad. I think 1/72 is the right scale for me as a newbie and someone with little space / frequent mover. I was looking at this kit: https://www.megahobby.com/products/mk-1-stuart-1-72-hasegawa.html and wanted to get feedback on how it would be for a beginner.
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Jul 26, 2016 02:08
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The Locator posted:Pretty sure all acrylic paint should be thinable with water? Is the Tamiya acrylic? Tamiya is a lacquer based acrylic, so while you can thin with water, you'll generally get better results with alcohol or their own branded thinners.
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Jul 26, 2016 02:22
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Wait, if it's lacquer based, is it one of those things where the vapour can ignite, or is that not going to happen while spraying?
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Jul 26, 2016 03:04
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Ensign Expendable posted:Wait, if it's lacquer based, is it one of those things where the vapour can ignite, or is that not going to happen while spraying? Technically yes, but Tamiya isn't anywhere as hot as a true lacquer, it's just a lacquer based acrylic. I've never heard of anyone ever having Tamiya ignite while going through a fan. It's always the super-hot true lacquers, usually metallic lacquers. And saying that, even spraying a hot lacquer isn't likely at all to cause an explosion. Obviously you generally don't want to chance it, but it would be a rare occurrence even so. If anything, it's better to spray a hot lacquer outdoors since it's hell to breath in and it'll stink your place up something fierce. Tamiya is actually quite pleasant to smell, I swear they add some sort of scent to it to mask any other odors.
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Jul 26, 2016 03:50
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Mr E posted:I think the Hasegawa F-22 that I have might be above my skill level for now. I'm thinking about doing a tank instead. What brands should I look at for my first armor? I build lots of 1:48 ww2 armour, and I think that tamiya's newer kits are beginner friendly. If you are really uncertain, go with a wheeled vehicle, as the tracks are usually the hardest part of most tank kits imho. Two tanks that I remember being easy to build are their pz 38(t) and the StuG III aufs G I just built. But I would definitely choose a tank that aopeals to me aesthetically, first and foremost. E: If you want something very simple, you could check out Rubicon Models. They make models geared towards wargamers, so the kits are made to be quick to build and sturdy as hell. They're less detailed though, and you don't get the "full experience" with things like tracks, as these are often single parts. But if you want to just get used to gluing a tank together and paint it up, it's not a bad start. But be prepared that these kinds of kits don't have a ton of parts, so if you want a project that takes a few evenings, it's not the best choice. I think I threw together Warlord Games' T-34 in an hour or so, and that's while watching TV at the same time. http://www.rubiconmodels.com/products.php lilljonas fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Jul 26, 2016 |
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Jul 26, 2016 05:51
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Tamiya is actually quite pleasant to smell, I swear they add some sort of scent to it to mask any other odors. Its the alcohol. Stick your nose in some isopropanol, same smell, at least with mine.
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Jul 26, 2016 18:13
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Airbrush and spraypaint question. I have a lot of spraypaint, and I'm less than pleased with its spray performance at the detail level. I've seen videos that show you can push it through an airbrush if you decant it and use the appropriate thinner. That said, How can I find out what the appropriate thinner for spraypaint is, and how do I make sure my airbrush is clean after using spraypaint in it?
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Jul 26, 2016 20:25
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Greyhawk posted:Its the alcohol. Stick your nose in some isopropanol, same smell, at least with mine. I don't know. Iso just smells like alcohol to me, but the Tamiya we get here in Canada smells sort of flowery and fruity. But it's complicated by the fact that Tamiya has different formulations depending on where you are in the world, which they don't disclose on the labels, and some Isopropyl alcohols can have added scents to them to make them more pleasant for topical applications. So everything smells different all over the world.
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Jul 26, 2016 20:40
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 About 80% done on this bad boy. Really happy with this after struggling through a TIE fighter build. The weathering on the markings is probably too large and was my first time using liquid mask to try chipping. I tried to use dark grey over the base grey to make that look chipped too but didn't like it as much. I also made the mistake of looking at far better modellers working on the same kit and as inspiring as they can be its gets frustrating not being at that level.
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Jul 26, 2016 21:48
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Paragon8 posted:
Chipping isn't exreme enough! The movie props are really heavily weathered with most of the paint missing and every panel not missing is beat to crap. Think 60 year old farm truck. Edit: I wasn't going to suggest it, but if you're feeling brave, a couple heavy (careful) washes in brown, then black around the edges of the panels will fix the look of the chipping. Just think about where the vehicle has been and what people and the environment hhave been doing to it. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 26, 2016 |
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Jul 26, 2016 21:55
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If you don't like the weathering on the stripes, you could always go back in with a fine-celled sponge and stipple in some tighter chipping.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:01
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Jonny Nox posted:Chipping isn't exreme enough! The movie props are really heavily weathered with most of the paint missing and every panel not missing is beat to crap. Think 60 year old farm truck. Yeah I think I get scared of weathering too much when I've got something looking nice. I did a Millenium Falcon and loved it pre-weathering but actually went in and weathered it heavily and couldn't imagine not doing it. Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you don't like the weathering on the stripes, you could always go back in with a fine-celled sponge and stipple in some tighter chipping. Thats a good shout I might try that out. Thanks!
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Jul 26, 2016 22:09
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So, just how big is a 64 gun 3rd rate ship of the line modeled in 1:24 scale? Umm.. Fairly big...  Hell of a work shop this guy has too! That hanging thing is a light from a hospital operating room. Oh, and it's pretty damned impressive up close too. 
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Jul 27, 2016 04:22
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The Locator posted:So, just how big is a 64 gun 3rd rate ship of the line modeled in 1:24 scale? I've been burned by this thread before, and I'm in not convinced that this is NOT a diorama.
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Jul 27, 2016 22:25
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Cthulu Carl posted:I've been burned by this thread before, and I'm in not convinced that this is NOT a diorama. Oh lord, now I'm paranoid, too 
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Jul 27, 2016 23:00
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It does look a little toylike/tilt shifty
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Jul 27, 2016 23:46
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It's a very wide-angle lens. Guy doing this build is a photography nerd of some sort too. Cameras!  Ship out in the middle of the shop.  Both of those photo's are fairly old, from much earlier in the build log thread.
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Jul 28, 2016 05:26
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It's posts like these that make me reflect on why my life just hasn't worked out the way I wanted it to
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Jul 28, 2016 11:44
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NTRabbit posted:It's posts like these that make me reflect on why my life just hasn't worked out the way I wanted it to Not much of a fair comparison unless you are deep into retirement. That guy is in his 70's I believe (this is purely a guess based on how long he has been retired).
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Jul 28, 2016 16:38
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A while back I asked some questions regarding a wooden ship kit. Apparently I'm now the owner of it, and it looks to be fully complete.      Dunno if I'll ever get around to building something like this, but I'll have to invest in some tools before I get started.
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Jul 28, 2016 19:40
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I highly recommend getting a simpler ship to build first. Very few people who try something like the Victory as their first wooden ship ever finish it. Starting with that is seriously jumping into the deep end on a build that would take an experienced wooden ship builder 2-3 years to complete. Some people do manage it, and you might be one of those exceptions, but the odds are against it.
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Jul 28, 2016 20:09
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