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Rubber Slug posted:That's what I was looking into, actually. Looking at DJI's site, I'm finding it hard to tell what the advantages of the Advanced are over the Standard. The camera seems identical, but I've heard the controller for the Advanced is slightly better. Is it worth the extra dough? You will get more range and a better connection (the standard connects over wifi), it has a better gps unit, and technically a better image sensor? I think. And generally better app support (some stuff supports advanced and pro, but not standard and 4k)
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Jul 26, 2016 22:37
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Thanks for the rundown. It sounds like the Standard is probably what I need, since I don't need an enormous range. My usage is probably going to mostly be within a few hundred feet anyway. I must say, I only started researching quadcopters for this purpose a couple days ago and already I'm incredibly hyped about owning one.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:53
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All of my CA bottles dried up, including some fancy thick foam-safe that wasn't even opened yet. I'm pissed.
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Jul 26, 2016 23:15
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I finally got my rates issue sorted... my end points on my radio weren't filling the range between 1000-2000. So I had to go into the radio menu and extend them at both ends. I like Betaflight and all, but it's really opaque to a newbie. Openpilot has a radio wizard that figures out your throws and that sort of thing doesn't happen. Oh well, now I can flip like a madman again.
McMadCow fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 07:58
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Finally finished the build:    Album: http://imgur.com/a/O2n6k Frame: Stanton TSX220 Motors: Emax RS2205 FC: KISS FC ESC: KISS 24A VTX: FX795T-2 RX: FrSky X4R-SB Cam: HS1177 VTX Antenna: TBS Triumph HD Cam: XiaoMi Yi Props: Dal 5040x3 v2 Battery: Turnigy Graphene 4S 1500mAH Was a tight fit getting everything into that frame. Hopefully the weather holds and I can maiden her after work.
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Jul 27, 2016 10:19
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CrazyLittle posted:All of my CA bottles dried up, including some fancy thick foam-safe that wasn't even opened yet. I'm pissed. Keeping them refrigerated seems to help quite a bit. Not sure why the unopened one would dry up though.
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Jul 27, 2016 13:27
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subx posted:Keeping them refrigerated seems to help quite a bit. Not sure why the unopened one would dry up though. It was UFO thick, which didn't have a seal beyond the snip cap which I hadn't cut yet. All it takes is ambient moisture to make ca cure so I guess enough air leaked through the threads to start the process. Of course I was storing it in my garage and hadn't needed any for almost a year but it still sucks to lose $5-10 in glue and not even get to use it once
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Jul 27, 2016 16:50
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I don't post here much but Crossfire sucks. Go openLRS.
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Jul 27, 2016 17:22
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CrazyLittle posted:It was UFO thick, which didn't have a seal beyond the snip cap which I hadn't cut yet. All it takes is ambient moisture to make ca cure so I guess enough air leaked through the threads to start the process. Of course I was storing it in my garage and hadn't needed any for almost a year but it still sucks to lose $5-10 in glue and not even get to use it once For foam safe CA, I always buy the Bob Smith kind (usually labeled as the house brand at most LHS's) in a small container because it seems to start to suck like a week after opening and I never get through all of it. When it's fresh it works great, better than Flash or Zap for less money. ease posted:crossfire sucks Why?
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Jul 27, 2016 17:50
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Wojcigitty posted:For foam safe CA, I always buy the Bob Smith kind (usually labeled as the house brand at most LHS's) in a small container because it seems to start to suck like a week after opening and I never get through all of it. When it's fresh it works great, better than Flash or Zap for less money. Same, I was buying the BSI glue for the longest time but tried UFO because BSI doesn't really make a "thick" foam-safe CA. And yeah always buy the small bottle. Once the nozzle starts to accumulate dried glue the whole bottle will dry up soon too.
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Jul 27, 2016 19:24
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SoundMonkey posted:really unsure why you thought "cram it" was a suggestion
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Jul 28, 2016 00:01
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Slash posted:Finally finished the build: Looks beautiful. What did this equipment run you?
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Jul 28, 2016 00:40
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ease posted:I don't post here much but Crossfire sucks. Go openLRS.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:10
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I'm seeing some issues with the latest non beta firmware about close range failsafes going off, not sure what else though
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Jul 28, 2016 01:23
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The shielding on TBS triumph antennas is this insanely tight weave. Not like a cheapo banggood antenna at all, but the stiffness should have been a giveaway. Made it a bit tricky, but not impossible to direct solder one to an LT200r: They are really small actually pretty light. 7g once the SMA connector was chopped off.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:41
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I'm seeing some issues with the latest non beta firmware about close range failsafes going off, not sure what else though Well, I could buy it now, but it's non-essential, mainly to get away from 2.4GHz, because it's really been fun lately. That one pal always brings his Phantom that has a Lightbridge and pollutes the whole 2.4GHz band so much that it fucks with the range of the others, down to 500-600m max. on open field for me (FrSky no less), and now my other friend upgraded his old rear end Graupner remote control with some DIY Spektrum add-on upgrade from some electronics freak, that's apparently also leaking all over the band, too. Plus the lovely EU essentially regulating firmware updates on future transmitters and receivers. --edit: Also, I want to pick up FPV plane flying. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jul 28, 2016 |
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Jul 28, 2016 02:24
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Judge Schnoopy posted:Looks beautiful. What did this equipment run you? Thanks! Not sure i want to work it out, but here goes: Frame: Stanton TSX220 - £55 Motors: Emax RS2205 - £58 FC: KISS FC - £29 ESC: KISS 24A - £76 VTX: FX795T-2 - £30 RX: FrSky X4R-SB - £22 Cam: HS1177 - £26 VTX Antenna: TBS Triumph - £28 for two. Props: Dal 5040x3 v2 - £2 Total (not including batteries or HD cam or Transmitter or FatSharks): ~£300 Transmitter: Taranis - £149 Goggles: Fat Shark Dom V3 - £260 HD Cam: XiaoMi Yi - ~£50 Battery: Turnigy Graphene 4S 1500mAH - £18 each Tried to maiden it yesterday but it just flipped over. Figured out my mistake was a classic, had two of the motor connections the wrong way round on the flight controller. Maiden attempt #2 today hopefully.
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Jul 28, 2016 10:03
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I have a Hitec X-1 and I want to try field charging with it. Do you just go for a big 5000mah 3s?I mostly want to charge 3s 500mah packs. But if I wanted to charge a 4s pack would I need that big 5000mah to be 4s as well or will it charge a small(500-850mah) 4s with a big 3s pack?
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Jul 28, 2016 19:20
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bring back old gbs posted:I have a Hitec X-1 and I want to try field charging with it. Do you just go for a big 5000mah 3s?I mostly want to charge 3s 500mah packs. But if I wanted to charge a 4s pack would I need that big 5000mah to be 4s as well or will it charge a small(500-850mah) 4s with a big 3s pack? The charger has an internal DC-DC converter so as long as you supply it with 11-18V, it will charge anything from 1-6s (3.7-25V). You could power it with 3S, 4S, a car battery, a cigarette lighter, or a 11-18V power supply. Generally these chargers can charge faster when they do less voltage conversion so you may be able to get more current out of it charging your 4S packs off of a big 4S pack. My 28V chargers charge my 6S packs more than twice as fast off off a 24V supply as 12V.
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Jul 28, 2016 19:32
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bring back old gbs posted:I have a Hitec X-1 and I want to try field charging with it. Do you just go for a big 5000mah 3s?I mostly want to charge 3s 500mah packs. But if I wanted to charge a 4s pack would I need that big 5000mah to be 4s as well or will it charge a small(500-850mah) 4s with a big 3s pack? I don't recall seeing anyone power a charger with another lipo, but as Wojcigitty said, there's no reason it wouldn't work. I would suggest getting a deep cycle/marine battery - it will charge quite a few 500mah packs and it won't hurt to drain/charge it over and over.
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Jul 29, 2016 13:07
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Wouldnt one of those deep cycle marine lead acid batterys be a better choice
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Jul 29, 2016 14:49
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A decent lead acid battery is about a hundred bucks and heavy as gently caress and if it topples over in your car it will spill acid everywhere. Then you need to either get a charger for it or rig up some leads to charge from your Lipo charger (and use a power supply for that if its not AC capable). I went that route for a while and it was a pain in my balls. When I was doing a lot of indoor flying I wood bring my 2s and 3s 350-450 packs and a few old 6S 3300's to power my charger and could fly as long as I wanted. You can figure about 75-85% efficiency. So you could recharge a 3S 450 about 8 or 9 times from a 3S 5000. For some reason nobody does this but it makes sense to me. You will also have to be careful not to kill your big battery, using one of those alarms that goes in the balance tab is a good idea. Although if you are buying everything new from the start it probably makes more sense to just buy more small batteries.
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Jul 29, 2016 14:59
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The only thing you gotta watch for is not over discharging your source pack. All the packs I buy for general purpose electronics have over/under current cutoffs, don't RC packs have that?
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Jul 29, 2016 15:14
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Wojcigitty posted:A decent lead acid battery is about a hundred bucks and heavy as gently caress and if it topples over in your car it will spill acid everywhere. Then you need to either get a charger for it or rig up some leads to charge from your Lipo charger (and use a power supply for that if its not AC capable). I went that route for a while and it was a pain in my balls. When I was doing a lot of indoor flying I wood bring my 2s and 3s 350-450 packs and a few old 6S 3300's to power my charger and could fly as long as I wanted. You can figure about 75-85% efficiency. So you could recharge a 3S 450 about 8 or 9 times from a 3S 5000. Ah, we have power at my main field so I don't do it as often. I had a marine battery already, so I've always just done that. Never had one fall over but it is usually butressed against other equipment in the car/trailer.
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Jul 29, 2016 15:27
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I just charge off my car battery if it comes to it.
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Jul 29, 2016 15:37
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evil_bunnY posted:The only thing you gotta watch for is not over discharging your source pack. All the packs I buy for general purpose electronics have over/under current cutoffs, don't RC packs have that? No, RC packs are raw lithium pouches. There's several reasons you wouldn't want over-discharge protection circuitry in an aerial vehicle -- first and foremost I'd much rather have that last 5% dying wheeze of a battery bringing my drone down to the ground and replacing a battery, than the thing plummeting to the earth and destroying craft and battery at the same time.
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Jul 29, 2016 16:40
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Lmao, makes sense. I've only ever flown a friend's 4 channel plane.
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Jul 29, 2016 17:14
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Originally built it for my telescope, but it works well for RC stuff too. It's hooked up to my ground station's antenna tracker, and I can hook up my goggles and charger if need be as well. 
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Jul 29, 2016 17:32
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Whoops, double post. No idea why those images aren't going through, though.
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Jul 29, 2016 19:47
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I can see the pics just fine. e: what are those connectors called?
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Jul 29, 2016 20:00
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Wojcigitty posted:The charger has an internal DC-DC converter so as long as you supply it with 11-18V, it will charge anything from 1-6s (3.7-25V). You could power it with 3S, 4S, a car battery, a cigarette lighter, or a 11-18V power supply. Generally these chargers can charge faster when they do less voltage conversion so you may be able to get more current out of it charging your 4S packs off of a big 4S pack. My 28V chargers charge my 6S packs more than twice as fast off off a 24V supply as 12V. Nice, I'll just spend a bit more and get the 4s pack then. Thanks for the info. I am absolutely not interested in lugging an SLA battery around lmao. I have a few small ones from an old project propping up a shelf and they are heavy as fuuuuuck.
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Jul 29, 2016 20:03
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Coxswain Balls posted:Whoops, double post. No idea why those images aren't going through, though. Those image links are to the http burningjustice.net. If you're accessing somethingawful over https, a lot of browsers will refuse to load non-https content ("mixed content") like that. That's why some people can see the images and some can't. Your certificate expired in February of 2015, so just slapping "https" on there isn't going to help.
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Jul 31, 2016 01:25
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I am constantly one step behind on the Tiny Whoop craze. I'm sitting on a packet of the stepped-up motors and four of the 205mAh batteries, but I have no Inductrix and the OrangeRX module I need is on backorder. Can anyone find a BNF Inductrix for ~$50? Everyone is sold out.
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Jul 31, 2016 03:17
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The inductrix is the easy part! http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_498&products_id=5618 You could also get an RTF version with the little toy transmitter and make a DIY module out of it.
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Jul 31, 2016 03:21
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Tiny Whoop chat! I just got all the parts and it's a blast to fly, but I've been getting quite a bit of noise over FPV. Even in the same room with clear LOS my screen sometimes turns to static completely for 2-3 seconds. When the motors aren't running this doesn't happen. I was under the impression that these FX797 were already filtered pretty well, but could adding another cap help? I did accidentally rip off the channel selector switch when decasing it, but I don't think that can be the cause... On the other hand I am using a cheapo CP antenna and an old Boscam RC305 receiver, but surely at these ranges that shouldn't be a problem?
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Jul 31, 2016 09:59
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sigseven posted:The inductrix is the easy part! http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_498&products_id=5618 You could also get an RTF version with the little toy transmitter and make a DIY module out of it. Ordered. Thank you, my dude!
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Jul 31, 2016 15:09
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So what's the benefit of the Tiny Whoop over something like the micro 1104 build I just did? I can fly mine in the house no problem, but I can also take it outdoors.
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Jul 31, 2016 20:44
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^^^ I dunno, seems crazy expensive for what it is. I'm actually considering buying an H8 and one of those camera+TX combos to stick it on for a total of $30 or so. http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters/pp_186259.html Had my first couple of FPV flights yesterday, and while it was a bit unusual at first, it's really a great way to enjoy RC flying. It was quite a bit windy but since I'm using the camera on the gimbal, it had little impact and I could fly around without vomiting. Took int to around 200m out with the lovely stock antennas and had almost no signal quality issues. However, it took me only one flight with FPV to realize that OSD is absolutely essential, at least for voltage, time and current. Having my Taranis count down the minutes saved me this time but still hardly ideal. Sine I'm flying DJI and don't want to spend mega-$ on their stuff, I'm looking to hack something together based on MinimOSD - I've seen some code that's supposed to allow it to be connected directly to the Naza, and another project that uses an arduino to translate instead. Anyway, the question is, are all the MinimOSD variants on HK and ebay compatible with different firmwares? The translation approach is supposed to work with "avlink ArduCam (or ArduCam Extra) MinimOSD firmware, not the KV or MW OSD", and the other one requires uploading custom firmware to the OSD micro itself.  Also, is there such as thing as a PCB-mount RCY socket/receptacle? The accessories on my drone, including the gimbal, TX, LEDs, and camera now use RCY connectors or are soldered directly to the board, which is either messy or not very flexible, so I wanted to make a breakout power board that I could mount in a good place and then have all the crap connected to there.
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Jul 31, 2016 21:24
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JST RCY are wire to wire only.
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Jul 31, 2016 22:06
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Man just use the taranis & telemetry. Battery voltage is easy, RSSI is built in, and that's about all you need.
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Aug 1, 2016 04:53
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