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Yep, gun forums hold onto that thing about hand rubbing oil into your stock for 30 days or something like that. Mostly it's cheap, easy, and improves grain appearance. The war story about soldiers rubbing oil on their stock is more about ritual and busy hands than because it offers significant protection. I do think oil helps against dry rot vs bare wood.
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Aug 2, 2016 16:53
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wormil posted:The war story about soldiers rubbing oil on their stock is more about ritual and busy hands than because it offers significant protection. 
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Aug 2, 2016 20:59
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If you're worried about the rear apron, you could move it to the top and make it taller and treat it as a backsplash. You could attach knife/spatula magnets, hanging cutting boards or even tile the fucker. That's actually not a bad idea on the backsplash. I'm not planning on fully enclosing it - just doing some bracing. Not looking to hide the freezer, just have an easily movable work surface, so shouldn't have any major problems with ventilation, but that's a good thing for me to keep in mind. I'll try mocking up something in 3d and post it later for feedback.
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Aug 2, 2016 21:08
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So, I made a ladder for the treehouse (glorified tree platform?) previously posted, mounted it on some scrap steel the previous owner had left lying in the drive way. I'm thinking it will keep the ladder off the moist ground. I've also given both the tree house and stairs a can of wood sealer. I hope it will all last some years, but who knows? Included is my ugly mug eating a faceful of sparks.   
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Aug 2, 2016 22:55
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Looks nice! Do keep in mind though that while wood rots, steel rusts. That pipe looks sturdy enough that it'll last for a good while, but eventually it won't be able to support the weight of someone climbing the ladder. The maximum-overkill method would probably be to pour a small concrete footer with a couple of embedded brackets that pressure-treated wood connects to. That would last for decades.
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Aug 2, 2016 23:09
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Yeah, I had considered concrete, but I know the steel has been laying outside for 1,5 years in all weather conditions and it doesn't have a blemish on it, so I'm thinking it is good stuff - and will last at least longer than the wood of the stairs. Plus with this I get to cut metal, which is awesome.
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Aug 2, 2016 23:29
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So I have a question about sharpening. Up until now I've been using the scary sharp method, but I just purchased a Norton water stones 220/1000 combination stone. I use an MK II honing guide to get my angles correct. So I used the 220 grit to get the initial angle set on my chisel, then went to 1000 to clean it up. The problem is the 1000 is only polishing the middle of the chisel bevel and nothing on the sides. So I went back to 220 in hopes of making it flat for about 10 minutes of grinding. Still the same thing, once I go back to the 1000, only the center of the chisel polishes. I never had this problem using Sandpaper so I don't know what would be causing this. The stone is brand new and shouldn't have any flattening issues. I don't sharpen on one spot on the stone, I move the guide around to cover as much of the stone as I can. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Aug 3, 2016 15:34
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Not sure on Nortons but on other brands you do have to flatten straight out of the box. Fortunately it doesn't take long on higher grit stones. Wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of glass or flat kitchen tile is the go-to method. ed: actually I might be backwards on that and it's the coarser stones that take less time. Either way 1k shouldn't take too long.
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Aug 3, 2016 16:15
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Parts Kit posted:Not sure on Nortons but on other brands you do have to flatten straight out of the box. Lower grit = increased removal. Thanks for the tip of sandpaper on a tile. I picked up a pack of Hirsch chisels I mentioned earlier in the thread and they are so, SO much better than what I had before! Although, the ones I had before had "Tuff E Nuff" or some poo poo written on them....so....yeah. I got 5 of them for $60USD Edit : Oh poo poo, here's my old ones.. I can't believe how much they are compared to what I just picked up. midge fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Aug 3, 2016 |
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Aug 3, 2016 16:40
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One of the few places where I disagree with the recommendations of Chris Schwarz is wrt sandpaper sharpening. It is so much easier and cheaper to get a good scary sharp setup going that minor long-term higher costs are completely worth it to me. I do recommend going with "the good poo poo" from 3m https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/THS/item/ST-MAF.XX
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Aug 3, 2016 16:45
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Question for the guru's who don't own all the tools. I've built a few things over the years, (entertainment stand, side tables, children's chairs, speakers etc), mostly using plywood and edging. My wife wants me to build a headboard for our bed, and was going to use lumber for most of it, as I have some ideas on design that I can't really do with plywood. My problem is this; I don't have a planer or jointer. How can I get straight boards with very consistent thickness? I don't have the space to pick up the high end tools, and I don't want to hand plane boards for hours on end. Is it worth renting a planer and or jointer for a weekend, or is there some other avenue I could explore for people with more money than brains!
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Aug 3, 2016 17:47
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Fozzie Bear posted:Question for the guru's who don't own all the tools. I've built a few things over the years, (entertainment stand, side tables, children's chairs, speakers etc), mostly using plywood and edging. My wife wants me to build a headboard for our bed, and was going to use lumber for most of it, as I have some ideas on design that I can't really do with plywood. My problem is this; You can pay (a lot) more for S4S boards, or you can make friends with someone who has the tools. If you're in a bigger city there might be a hackerspace or coop you could join.
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Aug 3, 2016 17:53
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All you really need is S2S1E boards (two sides surfaced, 1 edge), since you can do the other edge with a table saw. Buying those is still going to be more expensive than getting rough lumber, though. If you do start with rough lumber, edges are usually pretty easy to clean up -- they'll be rough cut, but they're still flat enough that you can run one edge through a table saw with a zero-clearance fence (or through a router table with a jointing jig) and get a clean edge that way. And once you have one edge, you can do the others. Surfacing the faces of the boards is trickier; you really need a planer for that. Borrow, rent, or buy one.
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Aug 3, 2016 18:04
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Assuming you have a table saw, a simple jointing sled jig (example) works great for jointing the first edge. The main downside is that the sled needs to be a similar length as your board. So if you are trying to joint long boards, you'll need a pretty long sled which is a bit of a hassle (especially if you have a small jobsite saw like me).
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Aug 3, 2016 18:25
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polyfractal posted:Assuming you have a table saw, a simple jointing sled jig (example) works great for jointing the first edge. The main downside is that the sled needs to be a similar length as your board. So if you are trying to joint long boards, you'll need a pretty long sled which is a bit of a hassle (especially if you have a small jobsite saw like me). Use a circular saw and a straight edge. Great way to joint long boards really safely.
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Aug 3, 2016 18:31
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Any kind of hardwood is going to be much more than $100 difference on a project that size. Check out the various grades of premium pine boards at HD or Lowes. If you're happy with the results not using conditioner then you can skip it. I'd do a test on some scraps first either way. I can get most hardwood cheaper at a proper lumber store than the S4S pine in HD. It obviously depends on what tools you have available and how much work you are willing to put into it. Most of the stuff on Ana-White is made out of basic pine lumber from HD and even that can be made to look pretty nice with a little bit of work.
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Aug 3, 2016 18:41
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pixfix posted:So I have a question about sharpening. Up until now I've been using the scary sharp method, but I just purchased a Norton water stones 220/1000 combination stone. You probably know this but "grit" size between stones and sandpaper mean different things. And actually grit size between different types of stones mean different things. 1000 water stone = ~600 grit sandpaper, not fine enough IMO for sharpening. I would go up to 4000 at least. Fozzie Bear posted:How can I get straight boards with very consistent thickness? S2S lumber and a tablesaw jig to rip straight edges. If you don't have a tablesaw then use a tracksaw.
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Aug 3, 2016 18:49
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mds2 posted:Use a circular saw and a straight edge. Great way to joint long boards really safely. I'm amazed this never even crossed my mind.  Will do this for my next long board!
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Aug 3, 2016 19:55
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The amount of deflection in a circle saw blade, plus the opportunities for the saw to move away from the straightedge, plus the difficulty in getting the blade exactly 90° to the saw base all equals lol at getting a truly square straight jointed edge from that setup. Get a tuned no 6-8 handplane if you don't want to buy/store powered machinery.
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Aug 3, 2016 22:40
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midge posted:Lower grit = increased removal. Thanks for the tip of sandpaper on a tile.
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Aug 3, 2016 23:08
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Man even on a lathe French polishing is a huge pain in the dick. 
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Aug 4, 2016 04:42
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polyfractal posted:I'm amazed this never even crossed my mind. I just saw some long rips on Tips from a shipwright's channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_0fFH0Hm_M It sounds like he was planning on gluing up without treating the saw cut but the next episode shows he couldn't help himself and had to plane the cuts after all: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9ovavLefz0
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Aug 4, 2016 06:41
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Parts Kit posted:Man even on a lathe French polishing is a huge pain in the dick. People who are good at it make it look boring buy do-able. Then I get home and my shellac has literally every error possible. I've given up, maybe forever. I still do believe an initial thin coat of a good shellac looks great (under another finish that I can actually apply, and set a drink down on).
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Aug 4, 2016 07:39
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Cobalt60 posted:People who are good at it make it look boring buy do-able. Then I get home and my shellac has literally every error possible. I've given up, maybe forever. I have had some good results with this but it wasnt on a huge surface, and it didnt have to stand up to any sort of wear and tear.
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Aug 4, 2016 07:45
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Parts Kit posted:Man even on a lathe French polishing is a huge pain in the dick. Henry Mayhew's "Table of Drunkenness" from 1881 Button makers, (1 individual in every) 7.2 Tool-makers 10.1 Surveyors 11.8 Paper makers and stainers 12.1 Brass-founders 12.4 Gold-beaters 14.5 Millers 16.6 French-polishers 17.3 Average 113.8 You know the solution 
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Aug 4, 2016 13:44
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Cobalt60 posted:People who are good at it make it look boring buy do-able. Then I get home and my shellac has literally every error possible. I've given up, maybe forever. I'm debating trying Danish oil since it has some varnish in it, might give me a similar effect on my pens while being less of a pain than the French polish/friction polishing methods I'm waffling between currently.
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Aug 4, 2016 15:38
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I spray an automotive clear coat, currently. Not loving it, but the results, when done correctly, are really superb.
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Aug 5, 2016 00:54
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Talk to me about dovetail saws. I'm vaguely new to wood working. Or at least let's say new to cutting things without a contractor or table saw. I've been looking at some videos from Paul Sellers about dovetails and I want to start playing. I have some scrap wood and the need to make some joints. I have some Stanley fat max chisels that I have sharpened and flattened with a course diamond steel plate, with the help of said Paul and his fine English wit. They work real well. What I don't have is a dovetail saw. I've been to a couple of flea markets and estate sales, just can't find one in this area used really. What would be a "fine" saw that I can use to grind out some learning dovetails and won't mind loving up trying to sharpen it? I'd been looking at Lee valley and was interested in this guy: gents saw But just want to get a "derp get this entry level one but vaguely good quality one" Thank you!
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Aug 5, 2016 02:27
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Frank Klausz has a video where he takes a Crown Gents saw and re-profiles and sharpens the teeth to make a pretty drat good saw. He also tunes up a Stanley #4 from the rough and a Marples chisel. It's an hour+ but is time well spent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psoD4mMsiDQ
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Aug 5, 2016 06:32
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ptier posted:Talk to me about dovetail saws. I'm vaguely new to wood working. Or at least let's say new to cutting things without a contractor or table saw. I've been looking at some videos from Paul Sellers about dovetails and I want to start playing. I have some scrap wood and the need to make some joints. I have some Stanley fat max chisels that I have sharpened and flattened with a course diamond steel plate, with the help of said Paul and his fine English wit. They work real well. What I don't have is a dovetail saw. I've been to a couple of flea markets and estate sales, just can't find one in this area used really. What would be a "fine" saw that I can use to grind out some learning dovetails and won't mind loving up trying to sharpen it? I got one nearly identical to that, and have had good results with it. At that price, get it. Just get it sharpened every so often, and it will last years.
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Aug 5, 2016 08:05
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wormil posted:Frank Klausz has a video where he takes a Crown Gents saw and re-profiles and sharpens the teeth to make a pretty drat good saw. He also tunes up a Stanley #4 from the rough and a Marples chisel. It's an hour+ but is time well spent. Thanks! I will definitely watch this Saturday when I have some free time. Frogmanv2 posted:I got one nearly identical to that, and have had good results with it. At that price, get it. Awesome. I needed to get pushed in the right direction. I'm probably going to watch the video that wormil posted above and probably go with the saw and see what trouble I can get into.
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Aug 5, 2016 11:36
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I've about finally gotten that pen that the shellac is misbehaving on smoothed out with 1200 grit sanding/friction polishing with my home mix. Probably going to jump up in grit once I find my super-duper fine pack that's tucked away somewhere. drat this one is taking a lot longer, don't think I'm going to do it this way again. Probably just stick with one coat of the straight dewaxed flake shellac for a base and then do the mix instead of try to french polish, oof.
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Aug 5, 2016 13:48
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Okay I've been using a drill since I was like 7 years old and still can't ever seem to get the bit to go in at the point I marked and half the time it skips all over the place and fucks up what I'm working on. Other than a drill press, how do I not do that?
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Aug 5, 2016 18:36
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Okay I've been using a drill since I was like 7 years old and still can't ever seem to get the bit to go in at the point I marked and half the time it skips all over the place and fucks up what I'm working on. Other than a drill press, how do I not do that? Get yourself a center punch.
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Aug 5, 2016 18:41
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Okay I've been using a drill since I was like 7 years old and still can't ever seem to get the bit to go in at the point I marked and half the time it skips all over the place and fucks up what I'm working on. Other than a drill press, how do I not do that? Use a brad point bit.
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Aug 5, 2016 18:44
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Magnus Praeda posted:Get yourself a center punch. I have a center punch, but I didn't think you could use it on wood for some reason. It's pretty pointy and exerts a lot of force, I guess I assumed it would like crack the wood in half or something? I'll try it though, thanks  nielsm posted:Use a brad point bit. Those look pretty good too, thanks!
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Aug 5, 2016 18:50
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:I have a center punch, but I didn't think you could use it on wood for some reason. It's pretty pointy and exerts a lot of force, I guess I assumed it would like crack the wood in half or something? An auto center punch I assume? Give it a shot on a scrap and if it divots too much get an old school center punch you whack with a mallet at the hardware store.
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Aug 5, 2016 18:56
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Parts Kit posted:An auto center punch I assume? Give it a shot on a scrap and if it divots too much get an old school center punch you whack with a mallet at the hardware store. Oh I didn't realize there were different kinds, I've only ever used the "push down on it until it makes a loud bang" type. Guess I'm going back to the hardware store this weekend
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Aug 5, 2016 19:09
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Or use a nail.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:28
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Or the drill bit itself. Or a pencil/pen. Anything with a point that is harder than the wood will work fine.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:59
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