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I want to weather my tank once it's painted since I didn't do much to my first model. Is there a decent go-to guide for that? I'm definitely going to pre-shade this time as well. I shouldn't need to paint anything non-internal before putting it all together, right? The Tamiya instructions are pretty fantastic but it does show things like the exhaust being painted before putting the entire model together. Finally, should I just go with the vinyl treads that come with the model or is it worth it to go ahead and get some fancier treads?
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Aug 3, 2016 17:14
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Greyhawk posted:No worries. Pictures of the Soleil Royal should be coming in next week as well as some progress on the Victory cross section. There is an entire sub-forum on ModelShipWorld for the Triton cross section. The plans were actually developed by the NRG on MSW and the only way to get access to them is to download the keel plans, make your keel and post photos by starting a build log. After doing that they give you access to all of the rest of the plans to continue to the build. I've already printed out the keel plans and intend to make is sometime here in the not to distant future (it's pretty simple, and only three parts) in order to get full access so I can figure out what all I need to get together to build it. It's a nice looking build and it's all done in 1/48 scale which makes me happy. Access to the full Triton build is done the same way, on another sub-forum for the full builds.
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Aug 3, 2016 17:49
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Mr E posted:I want to weather my tank once it's painted since I didn't do much to my first model. Is there a decent go-to guide for that? I'm definitely going to pre-shade this time as well. I shouldn't need to paint anything non-internal before putting it all together, right? The Tamiya instructions are pretty fantastic but it does show things like the exhaust being painted before putting the entire model together. Finally, should I just go with the vinyl treads that come with the model or is it worth it to go ahead and get some fancier treads? Neat thing about the vinyl treads is you can just snip them off if you don't like the outcome. I've only gotten a couple sets of aftermarket treads, both of the "workable" variety. They both look gorgeous, but are very time consuming and tedious to assemble, in addition to costing as much as some entire Tamiya kits. Definitely wouldn't jump into that before seeing how the vinyl tracks work out. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Aug 3, 2016 |
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Aug 3, 2016 17:51
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Remember when I said I was only into star wars kits? I lied. After struggling with an awful hobbyboss f-22 I only want to build the best kits. I have a Tamiya F-16C on the way. Is there a consensus best F-15 model? I'm looking at 1/72 A lot of people I'm reading are recommending Hasagawa but I've read good things about a Platz F-15J which is apparently a new tool and is getting rave reviews but is 2x the price of the Hasagawa. I don't mind the cost (just compare it to Games Workshop and any kit seems cheap) as long as it is a fun rad build.
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Aug 3, 2016 19:06
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 I finally got around to finishing the Tamiya 1/700 Kiso. Pro-tip: When you're doing PE railings for ships this small, make sure you only use 1" lengths at a time, even if it's just a straight side deck. Also, make sure the CA glue you're using is brand new. I learned both of these things the hard way.  Although most people recommended stretched sprue for the rigging, I used fishing wire instead. IMO it's much tougher and sticks on much better once the CA sets.  The full model measures just over 8 1/2" long. I really enjoyed this build, since the deck masking wasn't too tricky and the components like the forward tripod mast fit together well with barely any trouble- something I can't say for the older Aoshima waterline molds. Speaking of which, I also started work on the Aoshima 1/700 Taiyo escort carrier. I have to figure out a solution to make the deck look like it's planked, since there's barely any detail on it whatsoever. I think i'll try and achieve the effect by preshading some black lines in before spraying the wood color paint. I also really need to get my macro lens back from the repair shop.
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Aug 3, 2016 20:10
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Mr E posted:I want to weather my tank once it's painted since I didn't do much to my first model. Is there a decent go-to guide for that? I'm definitely going to pre-shade this time as well. I shouldn't need to paint anything non-internal before putting it all together, right? The Tamiya instructions are pretty fantastic but it does show things like the exhaust being painted before putting the entire model together. Finally, should I just go with the vinyl treads that come with the model or is it worth it to go ahead and get some fancier treads? I found this step-by-step hour-long video to be shock-full of good ideas for painting and weathering tanks, and it explains every part very well since you can see it in practice. Brew a cup of your favourite beverage, relax, and enjoy the tank equivalent of a Bob Ross show, but with a soothing Spanish accent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGPH1BM4e_Q Personally, I build everything and then paint it, because I don't care all that much about getting everything perfect.
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Aug 3, 2016 21:05
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lilljonas posted:I found this step-by-step hour-long video to be shock-full of good ideas for painting and weathering tanks, and it explains every part very well since you can see it in practice. Brew a cup of your favourite beverage, relax, and enjoy the tank equivalent of a Bob Ross show, but with a soothing Spanish accent. That's a great video! Looks like I need to look into getting some black and white primers to go with my grey primer and some white satin for highlights. Are "weathering kits" or paints worth getting at all, or should I stick to using normal paints and pigments and watering them down along with the methods in the video? I already can't do "exactly" what they do in the video since my wheels are already attached to the model  .
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Aug 4, 2016 00:13
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Aug 4, 2016 02:40
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Mr E posted:That's a great video! Looks like I need to look into getting some black and white primers to go with my grey primer and some white satin for highlights. Are "weathering kits" or paints worth getting at all, or should I stick to using normal paints and pigments and watering them down along with the methods in the video? I already can't do "exactly" what they do in the video since my wheels are already attached to the model Honestly, I think it's a good idea not to try to do EVERYTHING immediately. There's nothing wrong with making a kit and experiment with some of the techniques, and then try a new kit and add some extra stuff. I'm completely guilty of buying lots of stuff like weathering paints that I see in tutorials and stuff, but then I get a bit overwhelmed when I paint my tanks, as I haven't taken the time to master the basics, such as getting even coats with my airbrush. So don't feel like you have to get everything at once, unless you really want to. 
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Aug 4, 2016 17:00
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lilljonas posted:Honestly, I think it's a good idea not to try to do EVERYTHING immediately. There's nothing wrong with making a kit and experiment with some of the techniques, and then try a new kit and add some extra stuff. I'm completely guilty of buying lots of stuff like weathering paints that I see in tutorials and stuff, but then I get a bit overwhelmed when I paint my tanks, as I haven't taken the time to master the basics, such as getting even coats with my airbrush. Yeah, I was thinking of practicing chipping, washes and pre-shading on this model, and working on things like highlights and dirt along with more advanced weathering on my next few models. The main thing I want to get fully good at with this model is painting camo well, and I'm going to be using tack or silly putty to mask for that. My next plane I need to work on canopies, so it's definitely a work in progress as I didn't do anything to my first model and left it like it just came out of the factory. I'm finding conflicting info - did the King Tiger use the red oxide primer like other German vehicles or something else - I'd like to use something similar for certain chipping and it looks like Vallejo Hull Red is really close to the color I'm looking for if the tank did use that primer. Mr E fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Aug 4, 2016 |
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Aug 4, 2016 17:17
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So my Grandpa (Frederick Gutheil) served on the USS Cubera, and made himself a souvenir some time in 74. Bought an off the shelf model and made himself a plaque.   (click for big) I posted this in the Milhist thread, and look what popped up! Nebakenezzer posted:That's an old Revell kit, the USS Lionfish. It is still available today. It's a extremely odd scale (Revell made its old ship models to a certain box size rather than standard scales) and scorned by fancy modellists because it's not modern in its detailing, but you can still get it. This is awesome to know. My Grandpa and Dad did model building, but I haven't done any since I was 12. I was kind of hoping something could be done for the cracking crappy paint. Can it be refinished at this point, or should I just buy a new model and re-do it? I'd hate to gently caress up the original. Or should I just leave it be? Any special treatment an old model needs beyond keep out of direct sunlight and don't spray with solvents? Suspect Bucket fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Aug 4, 2016 |
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Aug 4, 2016 17:55
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I'd leave it as is. The imperfect finish is what makes this uniquely your grandpas. You can strip and repaint it of course but that wouldn't be your grandpas model anymore. Quick inbetween. Got the Aventador finished up.  Ultimately it looks very nice, there are a few spots here and there where it one still sees marks where parts where cut from the sprues. It is unimaginable why those very few sprue attachment points would be where they are. I'll have to see if I can get a Lamborghini touchup pen for these. I can see now why so many of these Pocher build logs never finish. The horrendous part fit in the engine compartment combined with the material makes finishing one of these kits a chore rather than a hobby. At least I got a workout out of it. I have secured the services of a photographer friend who wants to branch out into object photography, so after a bit of touch up and clean up, we'll have a nice photo session with the car. Would I buy it again? No. Not from Pocher in any case. I am rather more excited now about what DeAgostini will do with the Special Edition.
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Aug 5, 2016 12:29
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That is really interesting to read, as I've always heard that Pocher was the 'ultimate' car kit. It certainly looks good in the picture!
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Aug 5, 2016 14:56
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The Locator posted:That is really interesting to read, as I've always heard that Pocher was the 'ultimate' car kit. It certainly looks good in the picture! They were, back when they were an Italian car model manufacturer. The new revived Pocher after the bankruptcy is just a brand name of Hornby Models Spain. Of course getting an unbuilt original original Pocher easily sets you back at least a thousand bucks (other than the horribleness that was the Testarossa, this one was bad even with the original company).
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Aug 5, 2016 15:36
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I MAY be getting a Model Factory Hiro kit next so this will be an interesting option to compare with the Pocher. Still in talks about that though.
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Aug 5, 2016 15:40
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Suspect Bucket posted:This is awesome to know. My Grandpa and Dad did model building, but I haven't done any since I was 12. I was kind of hoping something could be done for the cracking crappy paint. Can it be refinished at this point, or should I just buy a new model and re-do it? I'd hate to gently caress up the original. Or should I just leave it be? Any special treatment an old model needs beyond keep out of direct sunlight and don't spray with solvents? It can be refinished, but if the concern is the look (as opposed to its authenticity) I might just buy the same kit again. Especially since loving it up is a concern. When I was a lad, I built the same kit. Wobbly waterline, no paint at all on the upper decks.
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Aug 5, 2016 15:46
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Greyhawk posted:I MAY be getting a Model Factory Hiro kit next so this will be an interesting option to compare with the Pocher. Still in talks about that though. Enjoy, but a word of warning if you're not primarily a car maker. MFH is as good as it gets, and they are not easy despite their excellent quality. I've been building cars for about 4 years now and am only just feeling like I can handle one. Not trying to dissuade you from buying one, I'd just hate to see you drop hundreds on it and be overwhelmed. Which kit were you planning on? Also, nice Aventador!
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Aug 5, 2016 17:49
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The vallejo grey primer I ordered ended up being Medium Gun Metal because they changed their numbering on their primers  . I'm sure I'll find something to use that on eventually, but it's still frustrating.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:48
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Suspect Bucket posted:So my Grandpa (Frederick Gutheil) served on the USS Cubera, and made himself a souvenir some time in 74. Bought an off the shelf model and made himself a plaque. Definitely leave it alone. The fact that it's painted by someone who served on her gives even a crap paint job a meaning that a perfect paint job wouldn't have.
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Aug 6, 2016 04:00
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Darth Brooks posted:Definitely leave it alone. The fact that it's painted by someone who served on her gives even a crap paint job a meaning that a perfect paint job wouldn't have. I agree completely with this. That's a great heirloom to keep in the family, and preserve as it is.
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Aug 6, 2016 04:20
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Darth Brooks posted:Definitely leave it alone. The fact that it's painted by someone who served on her gives even a crap paint job a meaning that a perfect paint job wouldn't have. Thirding. That plaque rules as is, display it proudly.
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Aug 6, 2016 04:23
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I'd be very afraid of this:
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Aug 6, 2016 04:48
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So I found out today that the hobby shop that I bought my first model boat from 2 years ago on August 18th is having a model competition. I thought that it would be kind of neat to take the model I purchased from them (the Carmen - the ship I built in 1 month and logged in this thread) to enter. This is a hobby store that has an entire half aisle - a 16' long rack with 4 shelf levels - devoted to wooden ships for sale. Got online and found their flyer for the show... plastic only.  That would have been a kind of cool thing to do just because of the 'anniversary' timing. Oh well.
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Aug 6, 2016 07:48
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Buy a little plastic sailor man in scale, and then display it on a special stand that just happens to be a fully modeled wooden ship.
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Aug 6, 2016 08:02
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Buy a little plastic sailor man in scale, and then display it on a special stand that just happens to be a fully modeled wooden ship. I love this idea. Bonus points if it's then entered into a wooden ship model, where the presence of the plastic figures is noted as "accidental."
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Aug 6, 2016 17:46
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Haha... that would be pretty funny.
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Aug 6, 2016 20:03
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So IPMS Phoenix - the chapter that I belong to, just won the bid to host the 2018 IPMS Nationals. In August. In Phoenix, Arizona. Hahaha.. At least the hotel rates should be cheap for all the visitors, but hopefully they are smart enough to get rooms right at the venue so they don't die of heat stroke getting to the contest / exhibit halls. Should be fun, I've never been to a show anywhere near the size of the IPMS Nationals, and I'm sure I'll enter at least one boat in the competition for the hell of it, and likely volunteer to help with at least something as a member of the host club, even if I don't do that plastic stuff.
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Aug 7, 2016 02:05
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I'm making Italeri's new 1/72 Sunderland. The instrument panel is pretty neat with the included photoetch.  That is all.
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Aug 7, 2016 23:43
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Admittedly curious now how that big blue ball/blob thing fits into the completed model.
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Aug 7, 2016 23:46
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Should I get blu-tac from Amazon or just pick up some silly putty for masking non-square camo on my tank once I get to that point? I've seen that some have issues with the tac sticking to the paint afterwards so I wasn't sure. I'm going to use Tamiya tape for any straight line masking.
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Aug 8, 2016 00:05
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Mr E posted:Should I get blu-tac from Amazon or just pick up some silly putty for masking non-square camo on my tank once I get to that point? I've seen that some have issues with the tac sticking to the paint afterwards so I wasn't sure. I'm going to use Tamiya tape for any straight line masking. You can get blue tac at a Wal mart [  ] and it's general purpose useful stuff for modeling. The tank that I just completed was masked entirely with it.The Locator posted:Admittedly curious now how that big blue ball/blob thing fits into the completed model. You joke now but know that in the cockpit of a Sunderland between the pilot's seats there is a stairway going to the lower level where the anchor, gaff, and front defensive turret are
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Aug 8, 2016 01:47
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Nebakenezzer posted:You can get blue tac at a Wal mart [ You can get bluetac at select Dollaramas or the American Equivalent.
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Aug 8, 2016 04:37
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Mr E posted:Should I get blu-tac from Amazon or just pick up some silly putty for masking non-square camo on my tank once I get to that point? I've seen that some have issues with the tac sticking to the paint afterwards so I wasn't sure. I'm going to use Tamiya tape for any straight line masking. I got generic dollar store tac and Silly Putty, both work just fine. I never tried the tac for masking, only for holding stuff on toothpicks while I paint it, and it comes off easily enough without damage.
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Aug 8, 2016 04:50
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An alternative product if you can't find Blu-Tack is UHU's Patafix Glue Pads. Despite the name, it's a putty material, and you can find it at many office and art stores. Places likes Staples carry it fairly cheaply. I've even heard it may be superior to Blu-Tack and SIlly Putty, in that it's less oily, and more inert so it won't react with some paints. Don't quote me on that though, I just think I read it in some mag or some forum sometime. http://www.uhu.com/en/products/glue-pads.html
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Aug 8, 2016 04:58
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Mr E posted:Should I get blu-tac from Amazon or just pick up some silly putty for masking non-square camo on my tank once I get to that point? I've seen that some have issues with the tac sticking to the paint afterwards so I wasn't sure. I'm going to use Tamiya tape for any straight line masking. The only issue I've had with blu-tac is that it sometime leaves a grease mark that goes away with a clear coat. I've never had issues with it sticking to paint. Just make sure you let each coat cure.
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Aug 8, 2016 05:03
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:An alternative product if you can't find Blu-Tack is UHU's Patafix Glue Pads. Despite the name, it's a putty material, and you can find it at many office and art stores. Places likes Staples carry it fairly cheaply. I've even heard it may be superior to Blu-Tack and SIlly Putty, in that it's less oily, and more inert so it won't react with some paints. Don't quote me on that though, I just think I read it in some mag or some forum sometime. I use this and have never had a problem with it staining or lifting.
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Aug 8, 2016 05:40
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I used exactly those white putty pads for masking some resin and plastic tanks this summer, and it ripped a bunch of paint, including the primer, clean off from the resin tanks. It worked better for the plastic ones, but I'm very careful about what to do with the resin tanks that I haven't put camo on yet. Is the blue/grey tac generally less tacky?
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Aug 8, 2016 08:06
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Was there a coat of primer on the resin? Sometimes paint doesn't affix well to bare resin.
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Aug 8, 2016 08:30
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Was there a coat of primer on the resin? Sometimes paint doesn't affix well to bare resin. Yup, sprayed on a coat of grey primer, and then airbrushed a preshading coat, a mid coat, and a highlight. And... rrrrrrrip, lost huge chunks that stuck to the white tac. Plastic tanks survived, though. I hate resin. E: crossposting resin hate from the historical thread: lilljonas posted:
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 08:40
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Metal barrels are the one true god So when you all use bluetac for masking, do you reuse it, or throw it away after the one paint job?
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Aug 8, 2016 12:45
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