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Complete noob question: how did you get those golden / white lines on the furniture? Carved, or was thin slivers of metal inlaid in the wood?
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Sep 16, 2016 04:43
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Great work on the inlay. Did you use a scratch block for the stringing? A dremel or small router bit? edit: Loopoo posted:Complete noob question: how did you get those golden / white lines on the furniture? Carved, or was thin slivers of metal inlaid in the wood? Here is one way http://www.leevalley.com/en/newsletters/Woodworking/7/1/article1.htm
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Sep 16, 2016 04:57
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wormil posted:The last time you posted pics I was sort of asking about how it's done and am interested in the process. Sure I could google it but if you want to talk about something else then here is your chance. Ah, sorry, I missed that one. wormil posted:This needs more love. I love woodworking and guns but have no idea what's involved in checkering. Seems like it would be easy to accidentally break out those little diamonds. It is easy to gently caress it up, and if you look at the professional one, they still do. From talking with gun collector/snobs that holds true all the way up - I've seen $1200 revolver grips (no gun, just grips) with the exact same type and magnitude of errant cuts and uneven diamonds. They actually -add- value, as there are laser etching processes that can print absolutely perfect checkering in a tenth of the time - and people will pay more for having it done by a human. There are old dudes who JUST do stocks and checkering and they're pretty loving good, but they'll also charge a hundred bucks for a piece the size of the one I did there, so. It's pretty much - scratch outline, do two master lines at the proper angle, and run parallel off them with the two or three line cutters. All three of those activities could have many paragraphs devoted to them without really teaching you what you have to do. I had to figure out that my slightly changing hand position from the far end of a line to the close end was causing one end to drift a tiny tiny amount every time I cut a new line so after 10 or 12 they were visibly fanning out from one side to the other. Here's an example of one of my first test panels on a scrap hunk of birch:  My two starter lines were the two leftmost faces of the diamond - mistake #1. If you start at an edge, the slow drift of the lines has more distance to stack up and take things out of whack, so you get, say, an inch of stacking errors vs. half an inch each way which is less obvious. You can see the marker lines from where it SHOULD have gone to, but didn't. On my latest panel the drift is smaller - still there, but smaller. What's currently annoying me is these inlayed bits:  Once I get into those little short sections the parallel lines just go straight to hell. And I have no idea how to properly deepen the curved border lines there, no cutter in this set will make that turn and nothing else will try and follow the existing groove like a cutter will.
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Sep 16, 2016 07:22
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That is interesting, thanks for the added info. I have an old .22 and old Winchester 16 gauge both with crappy stocks and have considered making new ones but not sure if or when I'll ever get around to it.
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Sep 16, 2016 07:54
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Thanks guys, I used Veritas inlay tool, basically a fancy scratch block to make the grooves. I cut the maple super thin on my tablesaw and hand fit it with a block plane. The lights are similar to the costco ones, my costco didn't have any so I picked these up from an electrical distributor. I've heard good things about the ones at costco.
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Sep 16, 2016 13:01
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks guys, I used Veritas inlay tool, basically a fancy scratch block to make the grooves. I cut the maple super thin on my tablesaw and hand fit it with a block plane. I have had really good experiences with the drop in Phillips LED T8 replacement bulbs. Good quality light, variety of color temperatures, $10 each and comparable efficiency to a fluorescent. The only down side is thst you need fairly new ballasts for them to work with. A new T8 ballast is like $20 though, so you are still only looking at $40-75 (if you need the whole fixture). The one thing I'd say about the integrated fixtures like the wrap lights: I've noticed some of them flicker badly. I have one I put in my laundry room (Lithonia I think) and it's got that super high frequency strobing you would probably only notice if you waved your hand in front of the light and looked for it, but which I suspect probably causes psychotic breaks over time. The T8 replacements don't do this at all. Also, for some reason I found the Lumens/Watt for the integrated fixtures aren't nearly as good (which is strange because I would expect the opposite) E: actual wood question: I've got a fairly nice turned salad bowl that someone must have dropped/dropped something on, because there is now a pair of hairline cracks on the rim that threaten to turn into a full chip over time. It's not noticeable yet, but I was hoping I could somehow stabilize it with some glue of some sort without utterly messing up the finish/making the crack worse in the process. I don't want open up the crack much/any to get glue in there -- anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking about some really thin CA glue, but am worried about overflow marring the finish. Wood glue I could wipe off, but I don't know of anything thin enough to get good penetration. Hubis fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 16, 2016 13:52
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I would use thin CA. It will mar the finish but try taping it off with packing tape or Scotch tape. Cleanup with acetone and a qtip.
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Sep 16, 2016 17:08
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I've seen dull syringes used to get CA into really tight cracks--you could try that on top of wormil's suggestion.
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Sep 16, 2016 17:48
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wormil posted:I would use thin CA. It will mar the finish but try taping it off with packing tape or Scotch tape. Cleanup with acetone and a qtip. Hmm, could I maybe draw over the surrounding area with wax/vasoline as a mask?
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Sep 16, 2016 18:35
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Hubis posted:Hmm, could I maybe draw over the surrounding area with wax/vasoline as a mask? Interesting idea, report back if it works.
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Sep 16, 2016 19:03
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I want to turn a replacement knob for my terrible IKEA STABIL lid. Is this an equally terrible idea, or can I actually seal red oak to withstand the heat?
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Sep 16, 2016 20:37
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Spazz posted:I want to turn a replacement knob for my terrible IKEA STABIL lid. Is this an equally terrible idea, or can I actually seal red oak to withstand the heat? Heat's less of a problem than moisture, really. But so long as you don't run it through the dishwasher or something, it should be fine.
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Sep 16, 2016 20:40
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I spent the day organizing dads shop and planed some boards down for a project. Then I came across an small Ashe Juniper cutoff I had saved a few years back. So I cut it down on the table saw with a basic jig since I don't have a bandsaw. It is actually pretty nice inside and I think I need save some longer wider straight trunks to make a table out of. It would be nice to have a table made out of wood off the ranch. This piece is going to be turned in to a small book end for mounting a porcupine skull on. 
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Sep 16, 2016 23:10
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If you end up with any 3/4" or so thick scraps of that heartwood you don't need please send me a pm!
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Sep 16, 2016 23:26
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Parts Kit posted:If you end up with any 3/4" or so thick scraps of that heartwood you don't need please send me a pm! What size? What do you want to do with it? Next time I am processing some wood I can make you some chunks like this that will fit in a flat rate box and ship them off. I plan to go digging through some brush piles for decent dry wood next time I am on the ranch. Maybe we can do a scrap wood exchange. Also does anyone make signs with a router? I am thinking about getting a set of templates to make up some signs and was wondering what people use. Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 16, 2016 23:36
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Fun with curly maple. It's a bitch to plane. I've had this long square chunk or 2 of 8/4 sitting around for years and figured recently I'd use some on a "project". Found out you don't always need a surface sander, you can run it through a planer with minimal tearout. Ripped it to a bit less than 3/8". Basically I took off paper thin shavings and "slowed the feed speed down" manually. Good luck figuring which way the grain runs, because it reverses and squirrels up, wihch is why it's so pretty- but it's still worth trying. My old 12" delta will take off another thinner than paper running the flip side through without adjusting- that may have something to do with the feed rollers, idk. This is sandable after glue-up, imo.  Also, anyone needs a totl old school Powermatic table saw within driving distance of OKC, this looks like a nice deal to me. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/tls/5760058785.html
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Sep 16, 2016 23:41
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Enough safety chat, christ. Post pictures of projects   
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Sep 16, 2016 23:57
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ColdPie posted:Enough safety chat, christ. Post pictures of projects Hahahaha Reminds me of this https://youtu.be/rBYt5CxU8fk
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Sep 17, 2016 01:01
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Atticus_1354 posted:What size? What do you want to do with it? Next time I am processing some wood I can make you some chunks like this that will fit in a flat rate box and ship them off. I plan to go digging through some brush piles for decent dry wood next time I am on the ranch. Maybe we can do a scrap wood exchange. On signs with a router -- that's one of the things I intend to do with my Shapeoko, once it's squared and the shop isn't ungodly hot. CNC routers are pretty awesome for that sort of stuff.
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Sep 17, 2016 01:40
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I'm about ready to give up with trying to steam bend wood. The only non-kiln-dried wood I can find around here (San Francisco bay area) is redwood and Douglas fir, neither of which are really ideal for that kind of application.  If I want to build up a laminated piece out of oak or cherry that's cold bent around a 5" radius, how thin do I need to cut the strips into? Would 1/8" do the job?
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Sep 17, 2016 01:51
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So I got the bandsaw into the mobile base I made last week. (it's completely suspended, it just lifts crooked with the band wheels and motor in it)  12' 4x4 as a roughly 3:1 lever, with a truckers hitch (which is 2:1ish) to help me lift the end and hold it up while I got the base underneath.
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Sep 17, 2016 02:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm about ready to give up with trying to steam bend wood. The only non-kiln-dried wood I can find around here (San Francisco bay area) is redwood and Douglas fir, neither of which are really ideal for that kind of application. 1/8" is not nearly thin enough. 1/24" is maybe doable and 1/32" is safe.
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Sep 17, 2016 02:12
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Parts Kit posted:Pens! Blanks are normally 3/4" square by 6" long, but if the material is 3/4" thick and at least 6" on one side I can rip it as needed. I will PM you next batch I do. I need to see if dad has all the parts for a lathe buried in the barn or it is just bits and pieces. I would like to try turning some stuff.
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Sep 17, 2016 02:15
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Turning is pretty fun, you should definitely try it.
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Sep 17, 2016 02:39
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Hypnolobster posted:So I got the bandsaw into the mobile base I made last week. Whatup G0513X2 buddy, that's gonna be me soon, just waiting on the new floor...how 'bout that 400lb shipping weight, eh?
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Sep 17, 2016 02:43
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Bad Munki posted:Whatup G0513X2 buddy, that's gonna be me soon, just waiting on the new floor...how 'bout that 400lb shipping weight, eh?
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Sep 17, 2016 02:53
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The guys that brought the lift gate for mine were kind enough to use their pallet jack to roll it into the garage. Had less than an inch of clearance on the door with the crate on. Getting it off the pallet was the fun part, though, I stepped mine back and forth down 2x4s, removing one each time I rocked it in a direction. And yes, cutting up the crate with the new tool is weirdly satisfying. 
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Sep 17, 2016 03:05
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Does anyone know about the old Delta 930 wood lathes? Worth getting or not any good?
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Sep 17, 2016 20:18
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Atticus_1354 posted:Does anyone know about the old Delta 930 wood lathes? Worth getting or not any good? I have a 930 headstock that I may use to make a bowl lathe someday. Built like a tank and uses Timken 07204 tapered roller bearings. The bearings are open and meant to be run in a bath of light machine oil. If you buy one and take it apart, there are shims in the headstock, just know to expect them (unless some previous owner lost them).
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Sep 18, 2016 01:53
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wormil posted:I have a 930 headstock that I may use to make a bowl lathe someday. Built like a tank and uses Timken 07204 tapered roller bearings. The bearings are open and meant to be run in a bath of light machine oil. If you buy one and take it apart, there are shims in the headstock, just know to expect them (unless some previous owner lost them). The one I am looking at has supposedly been in the family since it was new. I am out of town for a week, so if it is still available when I get back I am going to look at it.
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Sep 18, 2016 02:00
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Makin' dat benchtop kinda fun
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Sep 18, 2016 03:36
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Atticus_1354 posted:The one I am looking at has supposedly been in the family since it was new. I am out of town for a week, so if it is still available when I get back I am going to look at it. Mine may have had a different model number, not sure, but it's the same headstock.  
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Sep 18, 2016 04:21
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I seem to have found myself in possesion of 4 or 5 oak logs of various dimensions. Has anyone built a chainsaw mill? What chainsaw did you use and how did you go about it? I would much prefer an electric chainsaw.
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Sep 18, 2016 15:22
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I don't think an electric chainsaw would be good for a mill. Unless you're just making posts I'd look at local sawmills or calling someone with a mobile bandsaw mill to come cut boards for you.
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Sep 18, 2016 17:09
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Do they make electric chainsaws big enough for a mill? If yes then it should be fine. I don't know if I would bother making a mill for oak.
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Sep 18, 2016 17:34
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So I bought some Doug fir 2x4s that are pretty recently milled and also got rained on so they were damp when I picked them up about 3 days after the rain. I want to paint over them for a project so I didn't want to seal in any moister so I'm letting them air dry out back. When I picked them up they were already decently dry but some were ever so slightly damp to the touch and they smell like they've just been milled and not sitting in the lumber yard for too long. Anyway it's been pretty hot and dry in the 2 days I've had them. About 95-100 during the day and peak dryness of maybe 7-10% humidity. They feel dry to the touch now. I've got them laid out with spacing all around on a slotted wooden table so there's airflow all around and direct sunlight for most of the day. So is 3 days of that enough before paint to get them decently dry? They're going to be framing for an outdoor workbench.
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Sep 18, 2016 21:33
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Super Waffle posted:I seem to have found myself in possesion of 4 or 5 oak logs of various dimensions. Has anyone built a chainsaw mill? What chainsaw did you use and how did you go about it? I would much prefer an electric chainsaw. Not knowing anything specific or first hand about chainsaw mills, this seems to be a pretty solid and even-handed intro into the whys, hows, and gotchas: http://www.instructables.com/id/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/
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Sep 18, 2016 21:56
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I've resawn some 4/4 kiln-dried cherry boards to make panels for a bookshelf I'm working on. I know that after you resaw boards, the stresses in the fibers change and can cause the board to cup, twist, etc. so it's no longer true. About how long does this process take? I want to wait for it to finish before I thickness plane the wood down to its final dimensions, so that it'll hopefully be more stable. Relatedly, anyone know how much distortion you can expect after doing a simple rip cut? I'm guessing this is miniscule at best, but does it happen? One of the things I'm working on is improving my precision, and it helps to know all the different kinds of scenarios in which wood can move.
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Sep 18, 2016 22:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've resawn some 4/4 kiln-dried cherry boards to make panels for a bookshelf I'm working on. I know that after you resaw boards, the stresses in the fibers change and can cause the board to cup, twist, etc. so it's no longer true. About how long does this process take? I want to wait for it to finish before I thickness plane the wood down to its final dimensions, so that it'll hopefully be more stable. Super Waffle posted:I seem to have found myself in possesion of 4 or 5 oak logs of various dimensions. Has anyone built a chainsaw mill? What chainsaw did you use and how did you go about it? I would much prefer an electric chainsaw. My general recommendation is a Stihl MS440 at minimum (preferably a MS660), and a Panther Mill or Granberg Alaskan mill. It's comparatively cheap to a bandsaw mill, but it's not cheaper than hiring someone to come and do it for you. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Sep 19, 2016 |
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Sep 19, 2016 00:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've resawn some 4/4 kiln-dried cherry boards to make panels for a bookshelf I'm working on. I know that after you resaw boards, the stresses in the fibers change and can cause the board to cup, twist, etc. so it's no longer true. About how long does this process take? I want to wait for it to finish before I thickness plane the wood down to its final dimensions, so that it'll hopefully be more stable. Usually when I resaw, any wood movement comes out almost right away or shows up the next day.
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Sep 19, 2016 00:18
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