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Skippy Granola posted:Folks, what are the correct woods to use for a joiner's mallet? The ones you have. As long as it's somewhat durable, and kinda dense, it'll work great. Make one with what you have, beat the snot out of it for a few years, and if it doesn't hold up, make a better one. You'll probably learn something about what you'd like in a mallet, so change your design as needed. More important than wood species is ergonomics, so do a little research on handle shape, handle length, and face angles. If you're doing larger projects mostly, make a larger mallet. If you work on tiny boxes and delicate things, make it a little smaller.
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Oct 11, 2016 12:23
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Javid posted:Here, there's an old, crazy, "Trump-is-too-far-left-for-ME" dude who owns a wood store between unsuccessful attempts to be elected to whatever office, who will look at it, then (maybe) sand a bit on it, sniff it, and then say what it is and be correct every time. I would bet there's someone similarly damaged near you who can perform this function. Is there something wrong with all hardwood store owners?
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Oct 11, 2016 13:27
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wormil posted:I never heard that about oak but I heard something similar about cedar. But I learned that what we call cedar in the U.S. is actually juniper or arborvitae. So it seems sketchy but who knows, maybe you're right. "Cedar" is used as a name for basically every aromatic tree in existence.  The original cedars were in Lebanon, and I very much doubt they have much relation to Tennessee red cedar.
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Oct 11, 2016 14:49
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mds2 posted:Is there something wrong with all hardwood store owners? I wouldn't say all. The guys who run the place in Norfolk VA seem really nice and helpful and not completely insane. But then again I haven't hung out after hours or gotten them completely alone.
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Oct 11, 2016 18:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:"Cedar" is used as a name for basically every aromatic tree in existence. Oh, wood?
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Oct 11, 2016 19:21
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ColdPie posted:Drawbored joint turned out great and seems super strong. Also it only took one evening to put together. Made me super happy when this came together. There is something really satisfying about joinery. They also get a lot better after the first couple tries. What is the scale on that drawbored sample? The dowels seem a lot skinnier than what I've seen used. For decoration on the tenons, have you considered a protruding tenon with roundover? I did them on my Paul Sellers bench and quite like them: https://paulsellers.com/2012/06/making-the-workbench-8/
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Oct 11, 2016 19:42
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Cpt.Wacky posted:There is something really satisfying about joinery. They also get a lot better after the first couple tries. What is the scale on that drawbored sample? The dowels seem a lot skinnier than what I've seen used. They're a little small, but it's what I had on hand. The dowels are 3/16", the rail is about 5 inches wide. One concern I have with going larger is the tenon was only 1" long, so I wanted to avoid having the end grain break out within the mortise. Since I'm no longer doing through-mortises on the other joint, I may pull in the legs a little and add another half-inch to that tenon, which would let me do larger dowels. Through mortises were just too much work through three inches of ash. Maybe next project.
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Oct 11, 2016 23:09
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Delta midi is much heavier and more robust, quieter, and way more powerful than the comet II. I'm liking it. I bore down pretty hard and couldn't stall the motor.
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Oct 12, 2016 00:37
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I found something for you guys https://twitter.com/TheJoinery_jp
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Oct 13, 2016 20:06
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Hubis posted:I found something for you guys Posted it two pages ago. Didn't get any comments... it's a bit hypnotic though.
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Oct 13, 2016 21:02
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I got this keyless chuck for my lathe: https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/185/5436/Turners-Select-1-2%22-Keyless-Drill-Chuck And man is it nice and smooth. Now I'm left wondering if I can put one on my drill press since it'd be waaaay nicer than the one on there. Box says Golden Goose and it ships not attached to the arbor.
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Oct 13, 2016 23:56
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Hubis posted:I found something for you guys xwing posted:Posted it two pages ago. Didn't get any comments... it's a bit hypnotic though. I enjoined this. Thank you.
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Oct 14, 2016 00:02
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Parts Kit posted:if I can put one on my drill press I asked that awhile back on GJ and overwhelmingly the answer was yes.
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Oct 14, 2016 00:48
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Yeah I think the only issues may be if Delta used some whack rear end taper for some weird reason or if I can't whack off the current one.
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Oct 14, 2016 02:08
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Does anyone know of a food safe finish that can stand up to alcohol? I was thinking it might be fun to turn some wood sake cups or shot "glasses."
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Oct 15, 2016 00:07
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Urushi. But if you are doing sake, why not a masu? https://youtu.be/MwPVcEMqKM8 
Corky Romanovsky fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Oct 15, 2016 |
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Oct 15, 2016 01:28
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Urushi. But if you are doing sake, why not a masu? that youtube video led me to some leaked footage from Festool R&D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb4j51Mor20
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Oct 15, 2016 01:36
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Hubis posted:that youtube video led me to some leaked footage from Festool R&D There's something amazing and terrifying about a five-axis robot arm swinging an active circular sawblade through the air with no blade cover or other safety equipment whatsoever. I mean, the robot should at least be wearing goggles. 
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Oct 15, 2016 03:14
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Urushi. But if you are doing sake, why not a masu? Hubis posted:that youtube video led me to some leaked footage from Festool R&D
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Oct 15, 2016 03:25
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Urushi. But if you are doing sake, why not a masu? Twice I've been to Japan and recognize the boxes. They got me to play a game where we drank sake from successively smaller wood boxes that fit inside one another. We started with the large box, filled it with sake, drank, then to the next smaller size. I don't remember if anyone made it to the smallest. In exchange I taught them how to shotgun beer, they loved it. Fun times. Party animals. They also kept trying to make me throw up by ordering increasingly grosser raw food. I drew the line at raw shrimp heads in some kind of raw egg yolk sauce, it just didn't seem like the kind of thing you should eat with a stomach full of booze.
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Oct 15, 2016 04:49
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Update: Victorian dressing table is shellac and lacquer, then underneath some sort of varnish. I'm having to break the surface with methylated spirit and then coat in paint stripper to get it off. Draw fronts are walnut veneer, rest of it is still probably birch.
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Oct 15, 2016 10:26
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So what are some decent online lumberyards? Also does anyone have any recommendations for lumberyards in Houston and Austin?
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Oct 15, 2016 19:56
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Has anyone here tried using polyurethane or other finishes in a hvlp gun? I've got a nice compressor so it seems kind of stupid to spend cash on spray cans.Atticus_1354 posted:So what are some decent online lumberyards? Also does anyone have any recommendations for lumberyards in Houston and Austin? http://www.cookwoods.com/ http://www.woodworkerssource.com/shop/SFNT.html
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Oct 16, 2016 08:26
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Parts Kit posted:Has anyone here tried using polyurethane or other finishes in a hvlp gun? I've got a nice compressor so it seems kind of stupid to spend cash on spray cans. Thanks I will check them out. Also, I should be heading to the ranch within the month and processing some more Ashe Juniper. I will fill up a flat rate box for you when I do.
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Oct 17, 2016 00:22
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Parts Kit posted:Has anyone here tried using polyurethane or other finishes in a hvlp gun? I've got a nice compressor so it seems kind of stupid to spend cash on spray cans. Most anything should spray fine it just takes some fiddling with it to figure out the proper consistency to spray and not run. Also if it's a water based finish you want to make sure you get a sprayer with stainless steel parts or it can rust.
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Oct 17, 2016 00:46
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Thumposaurus posted:Most anything should spray fine it just takes some fiddling with it to figure out the proper consistency to spray and not run. Also if it's a water based finish you want to make sure you get a sprayer with stainless steel parts or it can rust. Atticus_1354 posted:Thanks I will check them out. Also, I should be heading to the ranch within the month and processing some more Ashe Juniper. I will fill up a flat rate box for you when I do.  For other places to look locally, check cabinetry companies. There's one near me that has a scrap pile people can pick through for cheap walnut and such.
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Oct 18, 2016 14:19
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I bought some new toys  
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Oct 18, 2016 20:37
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mds2 posted:I bought some new toys  That jack plane is 100% great, the only bad thing about it is that the adjuster knob assembly falls out easy when the blade isn't on.
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Oct 18, 2016 21:59
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mds2 posted:I bought some new toys I've been thinking about picking up the low angle jack from them, probably mostly for a shooting board. I have the rabbet block plane and it's my most used plane by a huge margin. Are those all the fancy different blades for the jack?
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Oct 18, 2016 22:34
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mds2 posted:I bought some new toys I have the block plane and used to have the jack, I plan on buying that smoother to replace my Stanley no3 eventually. My hot take is at most you need two blades if you are going to use the jack for both roughing and jointing tasks, and that you always want to buy the low angle blades and just sharpen a micro-bevel to achieve whatever angle you are after. Regardless you'll likely be very happy with your purchase. (I sold the jack as I wanted dedicated roughing and jointing planes, and I didn't really need a really nice roughing plane. I now have an old Vaughan and Bushnell jack plane for roughing and the Veritas no6 as my jointer.)
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Oct 18, 2016 23:42
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These came as a set from lee valley. The jack, smoother, and block all came with 25 degree blades. The set also included a 50 degree smoother blade. Nice little bonus.
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Oct 18, 2016 23:47
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Is there any way to prevent or reduce the ungodly squealing that happens when boring pen blanks?
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Oct 19, 2016 00:23
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Install the biggest subwoofer you can find off of craigslist and crank up the bass, baby!!!!
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Oct 19, 2016 03:33
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mds2 posted:These came as a set from lee valley. The jack, smoother, and block all came with 25 degree blades. The set also included a 50 degree smoother blade. Nice little bonus. Yeah, that set is a good deal. If it came with one extra blade then certainly no loss there. Ease the corners and give it a go on gnarly stuff.
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Oct 19, 2016 03:38
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Oy, I built a pretty good sized box back in August for a wedding and now it appears the lid has shrunk. I'm pretty surprised since I made it by finger jointing the sides then cutting a rabbit in the top/bottom boards and gluing them on. Then cutting the lid off which means the top is firmly glued to some wood that goes cross-grain. Somehow the lid still managed to shrink a bit and now the latches don't quite line up anymore so you can't quite close it. It's back for repairs now and I Was going to sand the front of the box down about 1/16th inch so it will line up again but now after typing this I am thinking I should check if any of the glue joints broke or something. It seems odd that the sides of the lid would compress to allow the whole thing to shrink. I should I should also double check that the hinges aren't hosed up or something.  Album http://imgur.com/a/dOxmo Edit: Also, I'm sorely tempted to take this deal on craigslist. I'm not sure why it's not gone already http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/mat/5831250832.html Squibbles fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Oct 19, 2016 |
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Oct 19, 2016 04:54
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Parts Kit posted:Is there any way to prevent or reduce the ungodly squealing that happens when boring pen blanks? If there is I don't know it. I've tried oil and wax to no avail. I think it's heat build up so maybe slow down, or speed up. Squibbles posted:I Was going to sand the front of the box down I wouldn't. What if it expands again? Can you shim the hinges? That would be a non-permanent solution.
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Oct 19, 2016 06:53
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wormil posted:If there is I don't know it. I've tried oil and wax to no avail. I think it's heat build up so maybe slow down, or speed up. The hinges are piano style. I could move them in a little maybe. Might be tricky since it's such a small amount. I might just have to switch the hardware to something more forgiving. With the box being as large as it is, wood movement is going to be noticeable i guess. Hmm, what would work best. Currently the latches have little pins that must line up before it closes all the way and it can be latched. That makes any wood movement at all cause issues. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Oct 19, 2016 |
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Oct 19, 2016 16:06
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Squibbles posted:Oy, I built a pretty good sized box back in August for a wedding and now it appears the lid has shrunk. I'm pretty surprised since I made it by finger jointing the sides then cutting a rabbit in the top/bottom boards and gluing them on. Then cutting the lid off which means the top is firmly glued to some wood that goes cross-grain. Somehow the lid still managed to shrink a bit and now the latches don't quite line up anymore so you can't quite close it. You might switch to some more forgiving type hinges. Nothing wrong with what you did, except wood gonna wood (move with relative humidity) and more shrinkage  occurs in the winter months.Squibbles posted:Edit: Also, I'm sorely tempted to take this deal on craigslist. I'm not sure why it's not gone already Looks like a good deal, but keep in mind that 'mahogany' is a very generic term used flippantly. It's going to be some nice Asian hardwood though, most likely.
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Oct 19, 2016 16:15
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Mr. Mambold posted:It's going to be some nice Asian hardwood though, most likely. Says right in the ad, "This mahogany is Indonesian." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toona_sureni
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Oct 19, 2016 18:31
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wormil posted:Says right in the ad, "This mahogany is Indonesian." Do I need to put a :pedantic:  on?  I'd buy it for a dollar, or 200 if that's what the guy's asking.
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Oct 19, 2016 20:04
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