Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches
yeah pictures are always good. I love me some hounddogges

edit since new page:

So I have a co worker who has vegan dogs.

Am i right to continually yell at him about it or just a prick?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

pizzadog
Oct 9, 2009

Bud K ninja sword posted:

yeah pictures are always good. I love me some hounddogges

edit since new page:

So I have a co worker who has vegan dogs.

Am i right to continually yell at him about it or just a prick?

Correct. Coworker is an idiot. Look at the dog's teeth. Does he have teeth like a human or a great ape? Answer: he has loving canines. Dogs eat meat. Sure they won't turn up their nose at vegan food, but it's unethical to not feed them meat, their systems are not built for it.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


I guess my hound dog's ribs aren't too prominent, just the last two or three, which may be fine. The shelter worker processing our paperwork said she could probably stand to gain a "little weight". I tried to get a picture but she doesn't want to pose for me yet. We're not very good at being still unless it's laying down time. We'll learn though.

Problem!
Jan 1, 2007

I am the queen of France.
Make a fist and feel the skin on the back of your hand. The ribs should feel like that, easily felt but not poking out. From the side there should be a definite tuck behind the ribs and from the top there should be a visible waist.

Engineer Lenk
Aug 28, 2003

Mnogo losho e!

pizzadog posted:

Correct. Coworker is an idiot. Look at the dog's teeth. Does he have teeth like a human or a great ape? Answer: he has loving canines. Dogs eat meat. Sure they won't turn up their nose at vegan food, but it's unethical to not feed them meat, their systems are not built for it.

Eh, dogs aren't obligate carnivores like cats are and hypoallergenic diets are vegan, so I'd consider it more a quirk.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Problem! posted:

Make a fist and feel the skin on the back of your hand. The ribs should feel like that, easily felt but not poking out. From the side there should be a definite tuck behind the ribs and from the top there should be a visible waist.

Then yeah, the last couple definitely feel too boney. We're seeing the vet in a couple of days so they should be able to tell me more.

pizzadog
Oct 9, 2009

Engineer Lenk posted:

Eh, dogs aren't obligate carnivores like cats are and hypoallergenic diets are vegan, so I'd consider it more a quirk.

Sure they are omnivores, not herbivores. And no, most dog hypoallergenic diets are not even vegetarian. Unless a veterinary nutritionist told them to feed their dog vegan, it's a dumb idea.

pizzadog fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Oct 20, 2016

Engineer Lenk
Aug 28, 2003

Mnogo losho e!

pizzadog posted:

Sure they are omnivores, not herbivores. And no, most dog hypoallergenic diets are not even vegetarian. Unless a veterinary nutritionist told them to feed their dog vegan, it's a dumb idea.

I just know HA is hydrolyzed soy, I used it for one of my dogs for a washout period, and it seems to be a common prescription food in my area.

If they're feeding their dogs a nutritionally complete diet that the dog tolerates, protein source is a matter of personal preference. It's OK to think it's dumb, but it's roughly as gauche to point it out as commenting on someone choosing to feed their kid a vegan diet.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


My black cat's intimidation tactics seem to have worked vs the dog. The dog is giving her plenty of space and quit trying to sniff her. The dog still wants to sniff the orange cat but he just stays out of sniffing range.

Sekhmet
Nov 16, 2001


Darth Walrus posted:

Just out of idle curiosity, does anyone else's dog bring in dead leaves to play with/chew on? Because our little cocker puppy does. To be clear, I'm not too fussed about this - a dry leaf isn't especially messy, unpleasant, or difficult to clean up, and she's suffered no obvious illnesses from this odd little habit - but I figured it was peculiar enough that I might as well ask just to see whether this is common or if it's just our pup being weird.

Anyway, in grand old thread tradition, here's Chloe, the culprit in question:



Anything that's in the yard that isn't grass is there to be played with and chewed on to my puppy. Dead leaves, sticks, pieces of mulch, rocks, whatever. They're feeling out the world with their mouths still (and holy gently caress it's annoying).

The previous tenants of our house had a little hobby vegetable garden and there are still these tiny little yellow heirloom tomatoes that are making a last stand, and those are the best yard-prize for Hachi. There was a proud retriever soft-mouth moment when he was carrying around two of them in his mouth without putting a dent in either, then he lay down and chomped into them and all hope was lost.

Sekhmet fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Oct 21, 2016

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Vet appointment went fine today. She actually weighs 47 lbs right now and could probably stand to weigh up to 55 lbs. The vet thinks she's probably closer to a year and a half than one year. We got 6 months of heartworm prevention and we're going back in about 6 months to get retested for heartworms and check her weight.

Next is obedience classes.

Carmant
Nov 23, 2015


Treadmill? What's that? Is that some kind of cake?


BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag
Just curious...what are some of the thread's general thoughts on slip leads? We were at a PetSmart/rescue the other day with our pup (attempt at some controlled socialization, he's not quite ready for the dog park yet) and one of the volunteers noticed his pulling on his leash and asked if I'd tried a slip lead on him. To me it just seems like a choke chain wrapped in a pretty color so I had not tried one. I did give her the benefit of the doubt and try one for a few minutes on the pup. She talked about noticing his "energy" already being different, but I didn't notice anything different other than feeling like an rear end in a top hat for putting it on him in the first place. Has anyone else had a positive experience with this type of lead?

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



I use one to just run my dog out to pee because it's easy to slip on but I don't use it as a training aid and I don't know that I've seen anyone use it that way locally. I mostly just see rescues use them because they are good at preventing skittish dogs from squirreling out of a collar and booking it.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Look at this stupid dog enjoying snow. Its like ... come on dog ... its just frozen water.

He was literally going apeshit and running around looking like Tony Montana with coke all over his nose. Much better than last year when he tried to walk without getting it on his feet.

Shugojin
Sep 6, 2007

THE TAIL THAT BURNS TWICE AS BRIGHT...


Super Grocery Kart posted:

Just curious...what are some of the thread's general thoughts on slip leads? We were at a PetSmart/rescue the other day with our pup (attempt at some controlled socialization, he's not quite ready for the dog park yet) and one of the volunteers noticed his pulling on his leash and asked if I'd tried a slip lead on him. To me it just seems like a choke chain wrapped in a pretty color so I had not tried one. I did give her the benefit of the doubt and try one for a few minutes on the pup. She talked about noticing his "energy" already being different, but I didn't notice anything different other than feeling like an rear end in a top hat for putting it on him in the first place. Has anyone else had a positive experience with this type of lead?

They can be useful in training a dog to not tug because fitted properly they are loose and comfortable when the dog isn't pulling.

You can also get a Martingale collar which operates on the same principle but has a maximum amount it can tighten. These are basically two loops of fabric (could be something else, but whatever), with one larger than the other. The adjustments are on the larger loop and the lead attachment is on the smaller, so that when the dog pulls, the small loop gets pulled back and tightens the larger one somewhat, but not infinitely like with a sliplead or choke chain.

That said if you want to stop your dog from pulling it's basically all in the effort to keep your dog heeled :ssh: My dog still pulls a little bit when there's something REALLY INTERESTING but mostly walks very gently and nicely and gets lots of compliments from strangers.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I found pulling on a lead to be one of the more difficult habits to break personally. My dog learned and accepted just about everything else really quick but pulling on a lead. I have been working on it since he was 3 months old and he's 1yr and 3 months old now. He's really good most of the time but still has some tendencies every now and then especially with something really good (squirrel or bird) or if he's super loving excited.

It's hard and every dog responds to different techniques. Good luck and keep to it. Also be consistent with your correction. I found my wife was being pretty lenient about letting him pull so we quickly got on the same page and nipped that in the bud.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Give me some hot takes on coats and such for dogs. Belle's shorthaired and it does actually get cold in NC. All our dogs back in bama were longish haired and largely hung out inside or in the garage once things got nippy, so I'm not really sure what people do.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


How cold is actually cold for a dog? My dog has short hair but we rarely get snow. I don't really see dogs in clothes where I live except on the really tiny dogs.

It was a little chilly this weekend and we went to a bonfire. I was fine in just long sleeves but my friend thought my dog was looking a little cold so he brought her a blanket and bundled her up. It was adorable and she loved it.

Kluliss
Mar 6, 2011

Cake, is it a drug, or is it simply a delicious chocolatey piece of heaven?
For me putting clothes on my dog is down to wind chill and rain, if it's not too blowy and it isn't raining (and there isn't snow/ice) then she probably doesn't need a coat. That said, from November onwards she actually does like her little hoody and will happily turn herself into a little sleepy ball when wearing it (dog is a staffie mix so not a tiny dog).

Plus people seem to like her more when she's dressed...if she's not, they tend to avoid her because she looks mostly staffie (except for the ears) and most of the staffies round here are on choke chains and are actively aggressive to any dog they see.

Speaking of dog aggression, Wraggles has been so good (because of the open bar method) that today a jack russell /springer cross bounded over and immediately went to sniff her bum, but she totally ignored him, just looked at me as we walked away, never even looked at the other dog :3

Given that a year ago I was worried we'd have a permanently leashed* dog with zero chance for her to run around off lead due to her aggression, I am amazed and really grateful to this thread for all the advice. Thank you for helping me be marginally less of a dipshit about owning a dog.

*She does still spend most of her time on a lead because we walk along a lot of roads, but there are a couple of places where I let her off because it's possible to see in all directions and she's got good recall these days. She won't be off her lead again until December though because fireworks season starts soon and she's just going to be a little stressball until it's over :/

BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag

Shugojin posted:

They can be useful in training a dog to not tug because fitted properly they are loose and comfortable when the dog isn't pulling.

You can also get a Martingale collar which operates on the same principle but has a maximum amount it can tighten. These are basically two loops of fabric (could be something else, but whatever), with one larger than the other. The adjustments are on the larger loop and the lead attachment is on the smaller, so that when the dog pulls, the small loop gets pulled back and tightens the larger one somewhat, but not infinitely like with a sliplead or choke chain.

That said if you want to stop your dog from pulling it's basically all in the effort to keep your dog heeled :ssh: My dog still pulls a little bit when there's something REALLY INTERESTING but mostly walks very gently and nicely and gets lots of compliments from strangers.

Thanks, I appreciate this. We have a Martingale collar on our other dog, but she's not much of a puller anyway. As far as the pup goes, leash walking and nipping are still his biggest challenges. Currently his recall is about 50/50 so "heel" isn't quite in his vocabulary. Our back yard is a bit bowl shaped, and for whatever reason he won't voluntarily leave the bowl area, which is great for playing fetch off the leash, but I currently only do that when both adults are home so we can grab him if he does decide to get brave or finally decide to chase a squirrel. We are putting a fenced area in this weekend so he can finally go hog wild safely.

Psychobabble!
Jun 22, 2010

Observing this filth unsettles me

Super Grocery Kart posted:

Thanks, I appreciate this. We have a Martingale collar on our other dog, but she's not much of a puller anyway. As far as the pup goes, leash walking and nipping are still his biggest challenges. Currently his recall is about 50/50 so "heel" isn't quite in his vocabulary. Our back yard is a bit bowl shaped, and for whatever reason he won't voluntarily leave the bowl area, which is great for playing fetch off the leash, but I currently only do that when both adults are home so we can grab him if he does decide to get brave or finally decide to chase a squirrel. We are putting a fenced area in this weekend so he can finally go hog wild safely.

I've lucked out and had dogs that weren't big pullers naturally but the way I've tried to reinforce it is to feed high value treats(cheese generally) while they're walking at my side. Its worked p well but its kinda low grade if you have serious issues

pizzadog
Oct 9, 2009

GoodBee posted:

How cold is actually cold for a dog? My dog has short hair but we rarely get snow. I don't really see dogs in clothes where I live except on the really tiny dogs.

It was a little chilly this weekend and we went to a bonfire. I was fine in just long sleeves but my friend thought my dog was looking a little cold so he brought her a blanket and bundled her up. It was adorable and she loved it.

Varies dog to dog. Both my dogs are medium dogs but one has rougher medium hair and one has extremely short hair with hairless belly and pits, one of them is fine, the other one is literally best friends all winter with the one gas wall heater in our house, and our weather is very mild in california. Walks are fine without a coat if it's not raining, cuz she's moving so staying warm. If we camp in the winter she must have jackets and blankets and loves the fire. Actually even in the summer she loves to be bundled up by the fire when it's even slightly chilly. I bet that was real cute!

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


pizzadog posted:

I bet that was real cute!

It was super cute.

Any good links or advice about camping with dogs? It's something I definitely want to do some day after get some obedience skills down. I figure it doesn't hurt to read up now.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
My dog (a 1 year old 55lb vizsla) has short hair, basically no insulation fat and gets cold fairly easily.

We only put a jacket on him if we're hiking somewhere up in the mountains that is snowing or freezing or slightly above. He looked really comfortable with a fleece vest in the snow and 35-40 degrees.

When we go pheasant hunting this winter I'm sure I'll grab a neoprene vest to keep him warm and protect his chest from brush.

Rain or any wetness will make him really cold though. He's a runner so he stays warm by being active but the moment he stops he will start shivering if it's too cold.

GoodBee posted:

Any good links or advice about camping with dogs? It's something I definitely want to do some day after get some obedience skills down. I figure it doesn't hurt to read up now.

Obedience is huge when camping with dogs depending on what kind of camping you do.

If it's one of those 20 feet by 20 feet pull in spaces with a fire ring and a picnic table then it's really important to have good recall and have them stay close.

I tend to car camp in more remote areas of Washington state where neighbors are not much of an issue. The thing is that we have a lot of wildlife (bears, cougars, elk, goats, etc) that could be an issue if we came across them. I work with my dog on a firm heel and recall every day to ensure that he comes when I call him. He's also fairly clingy so he always checks in after losing sight of me which helps.

As far as sleeping in a tent goes, my dog started barking at every stick crack and noise he heard the first few times. Eventually he relaxed and enjoys it now. I bring a kids sleeping bag for him so that he has something to crawl inside at night. As i mentioned before, he's a short hair dog so it also helps keep him warm at night and prevents him from trying to crawl into my sleeping bag.

My German short-hair that I grew up with has a camping chair that she sits in around the fire with the rest of us otherwise she tries to get into yours with you. Bring a chair, mat or blanket so they have somewhere to relax.

Verman fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Oct 24, 2016

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

So Belle has gotten pretty good about not peeing/pooping when I leave as of late. She has now picked up the much more worse habit of destroying things in a very Fuckface manner when I leave. This appears to be semi-random with her with being perfectly fine or destroying my blinds/chewing the door frame. My apartment isn't going to be pleased about this and I'm going to move up crate training to right god drat now. Tips/recommendations would be appreciated.

Krispy Wafer
Jul 26, 2002

I shouted out "Free the exposed 67"
But they stood on my hair and told me I was fat

Grimey Drawer
Looking for advice. 8 year old Pit/Terrier/Mutt mix who is experiencing rapid weight loss (weighs 25, down from 30). She doesn't want to eat kibble, but will indulge in some people food. She's puked twice in the last 3 days in her kennel, but we've seen no other messes. Puke looks like a nice tomato cream soup (more orange than red) and smells terrible. Kind of lethargic, but happy and doesn't appear to be in pain. She's sleeping comfortably next to me right now.

Vet visit today showed no fever, good blood work (just dehydrated), and I'm still waiting on fecal results. I'm terrible about her heart worm medication so I can't discount parasites. There are no obstructions in her bowels, but I didn't opt for a chest x-ray to look at her stomach. She doesn't have a history of eating stuff she shouldn't, but one of our two dogs got into the bathroom trash last week so that's the unknown variable. The other dog is usually the culprit in stuff like that.

So right now the top three possibilities are an obstruction, cancer, or parasites. Swell. I guess the fecal tests will give a thumbs up or down on worms, but it sounds like I'm going to have to spring for a x-ray to rule on the other two. Vet is comfortable right now with less aggressive treatment. She gave her a shot to help with nausea and some fluids by injection.

Anyone see anything like this before?

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Verman posted:

Obedience is huge when camping with dogs depending on what kind of camping you do.

Thanks!

Depending on how obedience training goes, we might try going for a hike in the spring. Then depending on how hiking goes, we might try camping later. My plan is to try out car camping in a nearby dog-friendly state park first before getting too ambitious.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

GoodBee posted:

Thanks!

Depending on how obedience training goes, we might try going for a hike in the spring. Then depending on how hiking goes, we might try camping later. My plan is to try out car camping in a nearby dog-friendly state park first before getting too ambitious.

That's the right idea. We took our dog hiking a lot before we brought him camping. Get them used to being in a new place and exploring. We were lucky that ours sticks close in unknown places where others might just run off.

Also consider day camping ... go to a state park, find a spot for a picnic and just spend the day relaxing in one area and see how he does. Set up a small tent or something in your yard and try sleeping out there one night. That might ease them into it pretty well.

pizzadog
Oct 9, 2009

Yeah I agree with Verman that the best thing in your toolbox is a solid recall and leash skills/obedience behavior - barring that, a solid long tether line, and you can get these $10 metal dog tie out cables on amazon that work so fantastic for a campsite where you have a tree or a picnic table available - dog can roam far enough to pee away from you and reach the campfire circle, but not invade others' campsites. I think training is probably more important than gear - a good recall or leave it cue will help keep your dog's nose away from a dangerous animal or keep them from eating a poisonous mushroom or jumping off a cliff.
There's a whole world of gear you can get into for hiking with dogs - there's a facebook group of that name with lots of searchable advice - but basically just be safe and responsible and slowly ramp up the activity and adventures. Dogs usually don't need too much more extra gear for a short hike, just bring extra water for them or make sure you have a purification filter or chemicals - they can get the same parasites you can from drinking from unpurified streams such as giardia. But you can also get custom trekking backpacks for your dog and booties if the substrate is sharp, such as volcanic rock, so you can get pretty serious but you don't necessarily have to. Remember leave no trace principles apply to dogs also in the wilderness - such as burying or packing out waste to keep nature natural.

Definitely go car camping first - I think the thing that was hardest for my dog at first was not being able to see outside of the tent when there's noise outside. It's easier if she's tired from a long hiking day. It's worse if there's neighboring campsites with loud dogs who aren't as quiet. But she's been camping and hiking from when she was about 6 months old on to 3 years, now unless there's something very loud and alarming, all the small critter sounds are background noise and even to dogs barking, she responds to her cues for settling and being quiet. Camping by a babbling brook is recommended! A kong or chew toy to stuff with something to facilitate settling around the campsite, and multiple rugs/dog beds and a spare fleece blanket is something I recommend if you're in the car and have the extra space and it will be cold - maybe even a towel and wipes if you like to keep your tent and sleeping bag cleanish.

Psychobabble!
Jun 22, 2010

Observing this filth unsettles me

Krispy Kareem posted:

Looking for advice. 8 year old Pit/Terrier/Mutt mix who is experiencing rapid weight loss (weighs 25, down from 30). She doesn't want to eat kibble, but will indulge in some people food. She's puked twice in the last 3 days in her kennel, but we've seen no other messes. Puke looks like a nice tomato cream soup (more orange than red) and smells terrible. Kind of lethargic, but happy and doesn't appear to be in pain. She's sleeping comfortably next to me right now.

Vet visit today showed no fever, good blood work (just dehydrated), and I'm still waiting on fecal results. I'm terrible about her heart worm medication so I can't discount parasites. There are no obstructions in her bowels, but I didn't opt for a chest x-ray to look at her stomach. She doesn't have a history of eating stuff she shouldn't, but one of our two dogs got into the bathroom trash last week so that's the unknown variable. The other dog is usually the culprit in stuff like that.

So right now the top three possibilities are an obstruction, cancer, or parasites. Swell. I guess the fecal tests will give a thumbs up or down on worms, but it sounds like I'm going to have to spring for a x-ray to rule on the other two. Vet is comfortable right now with less aggressive treatment. She gave her a shot to help with nausea and some fluids by injection.

Anyone see anything like this before?

I don't have advice for you because IANAV, but I will say that when my shiba had an obstruction she started having liquid shits indoors(this being a dog that, since 7.5 weeks, had never had a poo poo accident). So good luck, hope it turns out well.


pizzadog posted:

Yeah I agree with Verman that the best thing in your toolbox is a solid recall and leash skills/obedience behavior - barring that, a solid long tether line, and you can get these $10 metal dog tie out cables on amazon that work so fantastic for a campsite where you have a tree or a picnic table available - dog can roam far enough to pee away from you and reach the campfire circle, but not invade others' campsites. I think training is probably more important than gear - a good recall or leave it cue will help keep your dog's nose away from a dangerous animal or keep them from eating a poisonous mushroom or jumping off a cliff.
There's a whole world of gear you can get into for hiking with dogs - there's a facebook group of that name with lots of searchable advice - but basically just be safe and responsible and slowly ramp up the activity and adventures. Dogs usually don't need too much more extra gear for a short hike, just bring extra water for them or make sure you have a purification filter or chemicals - they can get the same parasites you can from drinking from unpurified streams such as giardia. But you can also get custom trekking backpacks for your dog and booties if the substrate is sharp, such as volcanic rock, so you can get pretty serious but you don't necessarily have to. Remember leave no trace principles apply to dogs also in the wilderness - such as burying or packing out waste to keep nature natural.

Definitely go car camping first - I think the thing that was hardest for my dog at first was not being able to see outside of the tent when there's noise outside. It's easier if she's tired from a long hiking day. It's worse if there's neighboring campsites with loud dogs who aren't as quiet. But she's been camping and hiking from when she was about 6 months old on to 3 years, now unless there's something very loud and alarming, all the small critter sounds are background noise and even to dogs barking, she responds to her cues for settling and being quiet. Camping by a babbling brook is recommended! A kong or chew toy to stuff with something to facilitate settling around the campsite, and multiple rugs/dog beds and a spare fleece blanket is something I recommend if you're in the car and have the extra space and it will be cold - maybe even a towel and wipes if you like to keep your tent and sleeping bag cleanish.

I was also gonna recommend a long lead because imo unless you can bet 100 dollars your dog will come when you call them under any circumstances, dont let them off lead. My thoughts may be skewed because I have a flighty independent dog/breed. He's Velcro on me 99% of the time but its not worth the risk for me. People with more biddable dogs may feel different but my dude is fast as gently caress and it took a couple weeks for animal control to catch him so homie can tolerate a leash for a bit

Problem!
Jan 1, 2007

I am the queen of France.

Super Grocery Kart posted:

Just curious...what are some of the thread's general thoughts on slip leads? We were at a PetSmart/rescue the other day with our pup (attempt at some controlled socialization, he's not quite ready for the dog park yet) and one of the volunteers noticed his pulling on his leash and asked if I'd tried a slip lead on him. To me it just seems like a choke chain wrapped in a pretty color so I had not tried one. I did give her the benefit of the doubt and try one for a few minutes on the pup. She talked about noticing his "energy" already being different, but I didn't notice anything different other than feeling like an rear end in a top hat for putting it on him in the first place. Has anyone else had a positive experience with this type of lead?

I use one to get my dog in and out of the ring when doing dog sports where he's supposed to run naked and that's about it.

As for training not to pull, it'll be more effective to train a not pulling behavior than rely on a tool. As soon as he starts pulling, stop and turn around and walk the other way. You will look like a complete lunatic to your neighbors walking 5 feet and turning around over and over again but eventually he'll get the idea that "I pull = walkies stop". Also create a reward zone by your side and feed your dog treats there during your walk so he has incentive to stay by your side. Realistically you should start out by enforcing a strict heel for a half block, then a full block, then a block and a half, and building up duration rather than doing it for your full walk every time or else it will be exhausting and frustrating and not fun for both you and your dog. Baby steps is key here. Pulling is a tough one that isn't an overnight fix.

If you want a tool to help with your no-pulling endeavor, front-clip harnesses like the Easy Walk are better than a choke chain/slip lead. They make it so the dog cannot physically pull because it pulls them around to the side, some dogs will just pull regardless against a choke chain and happily choke themselves.

Krispy Kareem posted:

Looking for advice. 8 year old Pit/Terrier/Mutt mix who is experiencing rapid weight loss (weighs 25, down from 30). She doesn't want to eat kibble, but will indulge in some people food. She's puked twice in the last 3 days in her kennel, but we've seen no other messes. Puke looks like a nice tomato cream soup (more orange than red) and smells terrible. Kind of lethargic, but happy and doesn't appear to be in pain. She's sleeping comfortably next to me right now.

Vet visit today showed no fever, good blood work (just dehydrated), and I'm still waiting on fecal results. I'm terrible about her heart worm medication so I can't discount parasites. There are no obstructions in her bowels, but I didn't opt for a chest x-ray to look at her stomach. She doesn't have a history of eating stuff she shouldn't, but one of our two dogs got into the bathroom trash last week so that's the unknown variable. The other dog is usually the culprit in stuff like that.

So right now the top three possibilities are an obstruction, cancer, or parasites. Swell. I guess the fecal tests will give a thumbs up or down on worms, but it sounds like I'm going to have to spring for a x-ray to rule on the other two. Vet is comfortable right now with less aggressive treatment. She gave her a shot to help with nausea and some fluids by injection.

Anyone see anything like this before?

My first thought is blockage. Spring for the x-ray. My dog had a blockage that wasn't palpable on external examination but they found it after doing an x-ray.

BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag

Problem! posted:

I use one to get my dog in and out of the ring when doing dog sports where he's supposed to run naked and that's about it.

As for training not to pull, it'll be more effective to train a not pulling behavior than rely on a tool. As soon as he starts pulling, stop and turn around and walk the other way. You will look like a complete lunatic to your neighbors walking 5 feet and turning around over and over again but eventually he'll get the idea that "I pull = walkies stop". Also create a reward zone by your side and feed your dog treats there during your walk so he has incentive to stay by your side. Realistically you should start out by enforcing a strict heel for a half block, then a full block, then a block and a half, and building up duration rather than doing it for your full walk every time or else it will be exhausting and frustrating and not fun for both you and your dog. Baby steps is key here. Pulling is a tough one that isn't an overnight fix.

If you want a tool to help with your no-pulling endeavor, front-clip harnesses like the Easy Walk are better than a choke chain/slip lead. They make it so the dog cannot physically pull because it pulls them around to the side, some dogs will just pull regardless against a choke chain and happily choke themselves.




I will try that technique with him on our next walk. I've been having some success with using high value treats as a heel incentive, but as a hound he's still easily distracted by some mystery smell 10 feet away. He's got an Easy Walk but he's kind of oddly in between sizes. Too big for a Small but his Medium even on its smallest is still a little loose. Considering he's growing a pound or two a week, he should grow into it soon enough. While I don't walk him with it yet, I've still introduced it to him with lots of treats and he's now comfortable with taking it on and off without a struggle.

In other news, he had his first trip to the dog park today, and after a little nervousness and clinging to me, he worked up the stones to explore a little on his own and even awkwardly play with another puppy for a few minutes. Hopefully we can get another trip or two in before his next puppy kindergarten class, as he is still terrified during socialization time.

Krispy Wafer
Jul 26, 2002

I shouted out "Free the exposed 67"
But they stood on my hair and told me I was fat

Grimey Drawer

Problem! posted:

My first thought is blockage. Spring for the x-ray. My dog had a blockage that wasn't palpable on external examination but they found it after doing an x-ray.

She ate and drank some yesterday and didn't puke. I'm not going to delude myself into saying she's getting better, but she's not getting worse.

It's not so much paying for the x-ray, but the surgery that might be required if they find a blockage that I'm worried about. :(

BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag
I have a question that some quick googling didn't really answer. We brought home a 3 year old female Chow Chow mix from a rescue a few days ago. She was introduced to our puppy at the rescue and they seemed fine. We introduced her into the house slowly by herself, let the puppy sniff around afterwards without her there, etc, all the things that should be done. At first she was extremely patient with him and would do the usual corrective behavior type actions. We've had to separate them a few times when the pup doesn't take the hint that she is done. In any case, today I stood between them to intervene and when I had my back turned to her she bit the back of my thigh. Didn't break skin but it was deliberate and hard enough to leave a painful bruise through 2 layers of clothing. This is the first bit of aggression I've seen from her, although she's been showing signs of possessiveness and jealousy. I spoke with her former foster home who said she had never had any issues. There's a ton of advice out there for introducing a puppy to a home with an existing dog, but not a lot for introducing an older dog to a house with an existing puppy. We have a child living in the house as well and now I'm very wary of the new dog. Any suggestions? Should I be getting prepared to contact the rescue? I wasn't myself keen on the idea of a second dog with our already neurotic puppy, but my significant other fell in love with the Chow Chow and I caved.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Another dipshit question

When my crate arrives, would it be a good idea to set it up in the dog's room and just leave the door open so she can walk in and out of it whenever she wants? She's been doing really well going to her room to go to bed and hanging out while I'm at work. I don't need to crate her on the regular but I want her to be okay with it if I need to.

Obedience class starts tomorrow. Yay!

pizzadog
Oct 9, 2009

Goodbee:
Yes, and playing various "crate games" (googleable)

Super Grocery Kart posted:

I have a question that some quick googling didn't really answer. We brought home a 3 year old female Chow Chow mix from a rescue a few days ago. She was introduced to our puppy at the rescue and they seemed fine. We introduced her into the house slowly by herself, let the puppy sniff around afterwards without her there, etc, all the things that should be done. At first she was extremely patient with him and would do the usual corrective behavior type actions. We've had to separate them a few times when the pup doesn't take the hint that she is done. In any case, today I stood between them to intervene and when I had my back turned to her she bit the back of my thigh. Didn't break skin but it was deliberate and hard enough to leave a painful bruise through 2 layers of clothing. This is the first bit of aggression I've seen from her, although she's been showing signs of possessiveness and jealousy. I spoke with her former foster home who said she had never had any issues. There's a ton of advice out there for introducing a puppy to a home with an existing dog, but not a lot for introducing an older dog to a house with an existing puppy. We have a child living in the house as well and now I'm very wary of the new dog. Any suggestions? Should I be getting prepared to contact the rescue? I wasn't myself keen on the idea of a second dog with our already neurotic puppy, but my significant other fell in love with the Chow Chow and I caved.

I'm gonna have to say that it would be a horrible idea to keep this dog around a small child and a puppy, unfortunately. The foster home she was in may not have had a rambunctious puppy with which to test this or she's just very dog selective, maybe this puppy bugs her more than that puppy, etc. But it's not a safe situation, really. Unless you're ready to double down, muzzle train, crate and rotate, it's going to be potentially unsafe until she is totally acclimatized but that is never a guarantee.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


pizzadog posted:

Goodbee:
Yes, and playing various "crate games" (googleable)

Cool. I just want to make sure it's not a really dumb idea to say here's a crate, you can use it or not, whatever. We can play some games too.

Engineer Lenk
Aug 28, 2003

Mnogo losho e!

Super Grocery Kart posted:

I have a question that some quick googling didn't really answer. We brought home a 3 year old female Chow Chow mix from a rescue a few days ago. She was introduced to our puppy at the rescue and they seemed fine. We introduced her into the house slowly by herself, let the puppy sniff around afterwards without her there, etc, all the things that should be done. At first she was extremely patient with him and would do the usual corrective behavior type actions. We've had to separate them a few times when the pup doesn't take the hint that she is done. In any case, today I stood between them to intervene and when I had my back turned to her she bit the back of my thigh. Didn't break skin but it was deliberate and hard enough to leave a painful bruise through 2 layers of clothing. This is the first bit of aggression I've seen from her, although she's been showing signs of possessiveness and jealousy. I spoke with her former foster home who said she had never had any issues. There's a ton of advice out there for introducing a puppy to a home with an existing dog, but not a lot for introducing an older dog to a house with an existing puppy. We have a child living in the house as well and now I'm very wary of the new dog. Any suggestions? Should I be getting prepared to contact the rescue? I wasn't myself keen on the idea of a second dog with our already neurotic puppy, but my significant other fell in love with the Chow Chow and I caved.

A bite to the back of the leg hard enough to bruise would be a 'return the dog now' sort of situation if I had a kid in the house. Better for everyone if the dog ends up in a less chaotic environment (sans puppy) where they'll have a better chance to succeed.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
My dogs best friend magnus (an 8 month old husky) lives conveniently a few doors down from us. Stan woke me up to go to the bathroom today at 7am, still dark. He gets outside and pucks up a scent and takes off towards magnus house which also had a fire hydrant outside. Starts peeing then sees magnus turn the corner a block away. He lays down and waits for magnus to approach and sniff. Then they both proceed to lose their goddam minds and start trying to play full throttle.

On the sidewalk.

In the dark.

At 7am.

It's adorable every time they see each other but Christ almighty it's too much that early.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply