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Hardware is fine, but I don't live in a place that sees rain more than 12 days a year and it never snows. I do suggest an electric impact to build the trailer since all of the nuts are nylock and it would suck to spin everything together manually. Thicker plywood is better. Add carriage bolts in the two holes on either side of the trailer near the spring mounts, it adds a lot of rigidity compared to none in place. Repack the bearings before you put the trailer together. RTV seal the hubs on otherwise they will leak the oil that separates out from the grease you pump in. Be careful pumping too much grease in, you will blow the seals. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBO4MG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the wheel bearings you want as spares, two per wheel. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...WMZMVWNW0FHTE72 These are the bearing seals you want, one per wheel. Run separate ground wires for each side of the trailer. I'm using the HF chocks, use washers on the underside to prevent pull-through. I have holes in the center that are more forward for when I'm only bringing a single bike and two sets of holes further back for when I want to bring both bikes. I just move one of the chocks when it's single bike mode, the second chock is perfect for holding my gas can. I mounted a piece of steel on the front of the trailer, drilled holes, and put eye-hooks further out, this is needed if you want to bring two bikes and is nice for a single bike as it is much more stable.  
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 02:14
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Guys, If I buy this CRF, does the fact that it has been ridden so little mean anything in terms of its maintenance etc.? 2014 CRF250L, 345 miles https://yubasutter.craigslist.org/bik/5852630488.html Guy says he bought it new last year and then 'lost interest'.
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Nov 4, 2016 22:11
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might have stale gas in the tank, but other than that it's only two years old so you're fine
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Nov 4, 2016 23:03
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carcinofuck posted:Guys, If I buy this CRF, does the fact that it has been ridden so little mean anything in terms of its maintenance etc.? nah, that new of a bike is golden unless he hosed something up
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Nov 5, 2016 00:16
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Probs needs carb cleaned.
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Nov 5, 2016 01:25
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carcinofuck posted:Guy says he bought it new last year and then 'lost interest'. ~The Honda Experience~ It's almost certainly fine. It's a honda, and that's not long enough to really mess anything up. Change the gas and probably seafoam it (to reference Z3n).
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Nov 5, 2016 02:11
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Uh, I don't think the carb us something you really need to worry about with that bike.
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Nov 5, 2016 03:01
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that bike is FI, no carbs to clean
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Nov 5, 2016 04:55
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Alright, I don't know if its an obvious choice, I've got two people offering their 2014 CRFs for exactly $4000. Aforementioned fully stock bike w 300 miles: https://yubasutter.craigslist.org/bik/5852630488.html 3,000 miles, a few mods that sound useful and I won't have to install a lowering link: https://sacramento.craigslist.org/mcy/5842880603.html Is there any reason I should pick the stock bike? I looked up these bikes on craigslist in 30 different cities across the US, they're all pretty similarly priced around 3.5-4k and anyway can't help that I'm in Cali, so I don't feel I'm getting shorted much. Edit: the guy who previously only wanted trades is offering his 2013 w 3k miles for 4000 as well. https://chico.craigslist.org/mcy/5845558620.html carcinofuck fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 05:34
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Oh I didn't realize that year had swapped to FI, yeah, buy the 300 mile one. Edit: gettin' old can't assume all dirt bikes are carbed anymore.
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Nov 5, 2016 08:18
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Z3n posted:Oh I didn't realize that year had swapped to FI, yeah, buy the 300 mile one.
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Nov 5, 2016 08:31
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carcinofuck posted:Why not the one with the few addons? Is the difference in mileage a big deal? No, the higher mileage one is basically just broken in. If those mods are worth an extra $100 to you plus whatever the difference in travel is, get it.
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Nov 5, 2016 16:27
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:No, the higher mileage one is basically just broken in. If those mods are worth an extra $100 to you plus whatever the difference in travel is, get it. Yup, this. I try and avoid longer distance travel for bikes when I can, just cause you never know, but you should be fine there.
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Nov 5, 2016 17:50
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:No, the higher mileage one is basically just broken in. If those mods are worth an extra $100 to you plus whatever the difference in travel is, get it.
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Nov 5, 2016 18:28
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Planning ahead. Would going from Yamaha R3 to Daytona 675 after a year good idea? Or wait two years?
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Nov 5, 2016 20:20
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How many miles during that year?
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Nov 5, 2016 20:25
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2500
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Nov 5, 2016 21:51
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No.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:52
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Whats the goal then?
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Nov 5, 2016 21:59
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Counterpoint: daytonas are awesome and fun. They're also really good at teaching you not to put your weight on your hands
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Nov 5, 2016 22:01
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10k on your first bike, if you're actively working on improving, building a new skill set each time you ride, and reading the usual books so you can internalize those lessons.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:07
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MomJeans420 posted:Counterpoint: daytonas are awesome and fun. They're also really good at teaching you not to put your weight on your hands I dunno if you're talking about how they have probably the most aggressive and uncomfortable riding position outside the 2000's Ducatis or about how they will headshake all over the place if you are driving out of a corner hard on the throttle and provide much input to the bars.  I liked mine. It didn't like me.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:17
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-A n i m 8- posted:Planning ahead. Would going from Yamaha R3 to Daytona 675 after a year good idea? Or wait two years? Hahaha. Daytona is a bike that hates you and wants to make you hurt. You're welcome to it, but please buy a GoPro and wear it at all times. For our amusement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qepDZAaNlns Nitrox fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 22:22
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BlackMK4 posted:I dunno if you're talking about how they have probably the most aggressive and uncomfortable riding position outside the 2000's Ducatis or about how they will headshake all over the place if you are driving out of a corner hard on the throttle and provide much input to the bars. When I first got mine I couldn't go more than 20 minutes without my wrists hurting, but on the positive side my abs are probably a lot stronger now. I was just thinking of the little day to day things, like you have too much weight on the bars, hit a bump, accidentally give it throttle, then it rockets off. I love that 2nd gear can go from 0 to 90mph, and that when a traffic situation seems sketchy I can pretty much just think "I want to be over there" and it feels like you're instantly there, but the fact that you don't even need to shift to go absurdly fast makes it really easy to get in bad situations if you aren't careful.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:36
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Honda 750 v4 magna 1984ish, shafts drive version. Anyone know anything special about those? My brother is looking at a winter project and one of those appeared locally for cheap.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:55
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Supradog posted:Honda 750 v4 magna 1984ish, shafts drive version. Anyone know anything special about those? My brother is looking at a winter project and one of those appeared locally for cheap. The carbs are violently disastrous to remove/install and they're a pain in the sack to work on in general. Aside from that just all the usual lovely old bike BS.
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Nov 6, 2016 00:51
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MomJeans420 posted:I was just thinking of the little day to day things, like you have too much weight on the bars, hit a bump, accidentally give it throttle, then it rockets off. I love that 2nd gear can go from 0 to 90mph... This sounds like any sportbike with a decent amount of torque to me. Is the Daytona only a special snowflake because it actually makes torque down low compared to the other 600s?
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Nov 6, 2016 01:06
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Jazzzzz posted:This sounds like any sportbike with a decent amount of torque to me. Is the Daytona only a special snowflake because it actually makes torque down low compared to the other 600s? It's got a 'Widowmaker' reputation on this forum, but since we are all goons it's more of a 'Video-Game-Abandoner', I guess. 
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Nov 6, 2016 01:14
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The Daytona's a triple, right? Total displacement / Number of cylinders = n The bigger n is, the more torque the engine will generally make for that displacement range. So if the Daytona's a triple while the others are fours, it should have a leg up (and 75cc) on its 600cc competition, at least in the torque department.
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Nov 6, 2016 02:08
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Jazzzzz posted:This sounds like any sportbike with a decent amount of torque to me. Is the Daytona only a special snowflake because it actually makes torque down low compared to the other 600s? The thing I keep hearing is that the handling is very much track oriented which makes it way twitchier than an average, inexperienced rider is prepared to deal with, even when compared to say a CBR600 or an R6.
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Nov 6, 2016 02:16
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What is the draw with triumph in general? It seems half the people that stop in here want a Daytona 675 or Bonneville. Outside of the internet I have never actually seen anyone riding one. Is this a west coast or hipster thing I don't get?
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Nov 6, 2016 02:54
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rdb posted:What is the draw with triumph in general? It seems half the people that stop in here want a Daytona 675 or Bonneville. Outside of the internet I have never actually seen anyone riding one. Is this a west coast or hipster thing I don't get? Possibly. The best selling Triumph dealership in the US is in Portland (along with the best selling Ducati dealership) - at least they were a couple years ago. Though the Bonneville guys are usually just hipsters who latched onto it because it was for a while, the only retro looking bike on the market before everyone else jumped on that cash cow. The Daytona guys are usually mootmoots-in-training. 
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Nov 6, 2016 03:08
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Yeah, that's what confuses me about the Daytona, it seems a bit lacking in electronics for the $14k sticker, combine that with midrange power and it looks like a recipe for disaster for newer riders. I don't see what it offers above a ZX6R, GSXR etc that justifies the cost. Maybe the fact that when I see the word Triumph I automatically think of the company that made the TR7 and Lucas electrics scares me away.
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Nov 6, 2016 03:25
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rdb posted:What is the draw with triumph in general? It seems half the people that stop in here want a Daytona 675 or Bonneville. Outside of the internet I have never actually seen anyone riding one. Is this a west coast or hipster thing I don't get? They make a great looking middleweight that has an actual midrange compared to the 600 inline fours while at the same time being set up with very aggressive geometry for a stock bike and a narrow bike feel. They also sell a version with Ohlins suspension and other goodies for a not-unreasonable price. Traction control isn't as big of a deal on a 600 since it takes some effort to spin up a warm tire, even with that midrange. Newer riders shouldn't be on a supersport in the first place. edit: The base 675 stickers at 12k. You're looking at the 675R with Ohlins R&T forks, TTX rear shock, Brembos, quickshifter, etc. None of the Japanese brands even sell something like that. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 03:26
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Thanks for explaining that. Your right, the Japanese don't offer the high end components the 675R does. However, new riders still get on super sports. And bad things happen. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-ngusODMCsY Someone else made the jump from an R3 to a Daytona and here are the results.
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Nov 6, 2016 03:40
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rdb posted:Thanks for explaining that. Your right, the Japanese don't offer the high end components the 675R does. Traction control isn't saving you from 'hitting sand' or being an idiot. It'll (probably) prevent you from highsiding if you spin the rear up in a corner. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 03:45
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Slide Hammer posted:The Daytona's a triple, right? Torque is a function of displacement, not cylinders. Fewer cylinders usually means more power in the lower RPM range, but tuning and design is the real determiner of that.
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Nov 6, 2016 06:53
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Z3n posted:Torque is a function of displacement, not cylinders. Fewer cylinders usually means more power in the lower RPM range, but tuning and design is the real determiner of that. What he means is cost is the real determiner of that
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Nov 6, 2016 09:10
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Yeah the 'less cylinders = more torque' isn't an inherent thing. However engines with fewer cylinders can usually not rev as high, which dictates designing/tuning for torque. Here's a fun dyno curve; the twin cylinder bike makes more low-end torque but, even though it revs higher, peters out before the thumper. Also it shows how incredible the lc4 engine is. 
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Nov 6, 2016 13:26
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High Protein posted:Yeah the 'less cylinders = more torque' isn't an inherent thing. However engines with fewer cylinders can usually not rev as high, which dictates designing/tuning for torque. Not pictured: the incredible maintenance schedule required to get that kind of power from a single.
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Nov 6, 2016 19:24
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