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Anyone here know electrical engineering terms in Spanish? I'm teaching an electronics class in Colombia next month and I have no idea how to translate words like "to short" and breadboard to Spanish.
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Dec 9, 2016 01:52
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| # ? May 28, 2024 22:48 |
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That's a really interesting question and I'm curious as well - I had a Thai kid in my physics class this last term and his english was so fractured that I honestly have no idea how he could have possibly kept up in class.. I mean in group lab sessions he would eventually just give up trying to communicate with people and take a nap instead, because it was so much effort to communicate with him that everybody just started sort of avoiding him. I felt really bad for the guy but I mean I still can't pronounce his first name 
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Dec 9, 2016 05:46
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google translate is surprisingly non lovely with more technical terms
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Dec 9, 2016 05:54
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For straight up vocabulary, the IEC has this: http://www.electropedia.org
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Dec 9, 2016 05:55
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rawrr posted:google translate is surprisingly non lovely with more technical terms There’s a good reason for this. Google Translate learns by studying multilingual documents. Technical documents are often translated, by professionals, into other languages. They’re an ideal source for a machine translation engine. So the software is surprisingly good at translation technical documents, because it has a lot to work with there. It is conversely surprisingly bad at translating casual writing, because humans don’t bother to translate blog posts.
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Dec 9, 2016 06:16
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huhu posted:Anyone here know electrical engineering terms in Spanish? I'm teaching an electronics class in Colombia next month and I have no idea how to translate words like "to short" and breadboard to Spanish. Are you from Canada?
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Dec 9, 2016 06:23
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rawrr posted:google translate is surprisingly non lovely with more technical terms Good luck with trying that approach without someone to bounce it off of. 
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Dec 9, 2016 08:24
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Yeah it's useless for sentences; I just use it to translate terms. It'll usually get you in the ballpark, and if you sort of speak the other language, you can google that to see if it's the common/correct term. My experience is pretty limited to sourcing parts on taobao though, like "cable glands with strain relief"
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Dec 9, 2016 09:24
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Jyrraeth posted:For straight up vocabulary, the IEC has this: http://www.electropedia.org This is excellent, thank you. I've been meaning to learn some Chinese vocabulary for electrical terms for months. I can make good flash cards from this.
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Dec 9, 2016 10:20
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As far as Google translate, my first attempt was to translate breadboard to Spanish and I searched the Spanish term on Google (tablero de circuitos) and got mostly PCBs and circuit breakers.Jyrraeth posted:For straight up vocabulary, the IEC has this: http://www.electropedia.org drat, I was excited but it doesn't have Spanish. ante posted:Are you from Canada? No, why?
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Dec 9, 2016 18:04
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If you GIS tablero de circuitos and click on the pictures that look like breadboards, one of the results is an intro to electronics in spanish with pictures (which might be useful for other terms) http://hispavila.com/total/3ds/tutores/procedimientos.html It seems like tablero de circuitos just refers to pcbs in general, and this (google translated from spanish to english) paragraph suggests that there isn't a spanish term for breadboards: "For many cases of circuit tests before the definitive ones an evaluation of results is done for which the panels or test boards, with the Anglo-Saxon term 'breadboard', similar to the one shown below, are made."
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Dec 9, 2016 18:23
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huhu posted:drat, I was excited but it doesn't have Spanish. But it totally does  How are you looking for it? "Breadboard" isn't in there for some reason but if I do a search on voltage I get this. Remember that Spanish's code is "es". Bear in mind this is the IEC, so it'll be all European Spanish, but I doubt that matters much in technical fields. meatpotato posted:This is excellent, thank you. I've been meaning to learn some Chinese vocabulary for electrical terms for months. I can make good flash cards from this. It has spotty coverage in some sections, as I learned from being in Norwegian cable documentation hell for a few months at my old job. 
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Dec 9, 2016 21:27
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One Legged Ninja posted:TL;DR: Don't rush. Check the datasheets against your board layout. Check them again. Have someone else check them. Give up and take up underwater basket-weaving instead. Also, test each section as you assemble it. A small update: I took the two SOIC-24 LED chips off with my iron, and it was still a no-go. So I got out a second board and put on just what I needed to get the uC to run. That one didn't even make my computer do the ba-DOOP sound, so after two days of testing and inspecting everything, I went to set it down with the USB cord in, and clumsily banged it off the bench and broke the connector off. That's when I found that the data pins weren't actually connected to the pads. When I stuck the probe on them to test continuity, it would push down and make contact, but nothing was getting through normally. I think next time I design something, I'm going to use through-hole connectors. Anyway, after a few hours of playing around and learning all about fuse bits, I can get both boards to pop up as a Leonardo, and a simple Hello World written to the serial port works fine. But the code I've written so far for my breadboard setup just makes the device unrecognizable. I've tried to make it generically applicable to any 32u4, avoiding platform specific shortcuts to pins and so on (except for quick and dirty temporary code), because I'm testing with a Teensy 2.0. So I suppose I'll have to go through line by line and see what's breaking it.
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Dec 10, 2016 06:05
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Jyrraeth posted:But it totally does I have no idea what I was looking at before but I swear Spanish wasn't there.
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Dec 10, 2016 18:22
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Finally got the nixie clock actually telling the goddamn time last night. It only took, oh, 10 months for me to get off my rear end and finish it? Maybe in another year I'll get it into its lovely half-finished box I made alongside it 
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Dec 11, 2016 01:22
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This is every project I've ever worked on. Ever. This one has a somewhat strict deadline, however.
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Dec 11, 2016 05:38
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someday, SOMEDAY i will get around to buying/building a tube amp kit and LED vu meter and putting in the old Macintosh SE case I gutted 7 years ago.
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Dec 11, 2016 19:15
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What sounds better of these two, used Weller 50€ Or a new china copy like this, I hear they have a good reputation, for chinese copies anyway. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLDERING...04AAOSwZQxW3Zfu Still I have a preference for older quality tools....
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Dec 12, 2016 13:50
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His Divine Shadow posted:What sounds better of these two, used Weller 50€ I was gonna say a Hakko FX-888D but when I looked at their prices in euros or pounds they seem to be much more expensive than in the US what the hell e: did find this cheaper clone that's otherwise unremarkable except for my favorite feature ever quote:No restrictions on how long you can use this soldering iron as it is mains powered Wow you mean it won't suddenly use up all its power-juice and shut down until I refill the tank?
Shame Boy fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Dec 12, 2016 |
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Dec 12, 2016 15:36
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His Divine Shadow posted:What sounds better of these two, used Weller 50€ The 936 types have lovely short stiff cords on the handle instead of the beautiful silicone cabling on Wellers. The heater in my old one decided to not produce any real heat after about a year, and it was never very good at regulating the temperature. Only downside to the Weller is that 20W may be a little on the low side depending on what you're doing, I really prefer 60W+ even for SMD work as long as the temperature regulation is on point. But 20 WellerWatts is probably better than whatever they claim the 936 can do.
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Dec 12, 2016 19:27
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My genuine Hakko 936 has a silicone cord and a 50W heater and reaches operating temperature in <20 seconds. 
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Dec 12, 2016 20:08
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I've been really happy with my Metcal - you can pick up used units that are a couple product generations old (mine is a PS2E) for "cheap" (relative to what they cost new, compared with new intermediatish level irons, and in the context of a purchase that should last for a lifetime). I find that they're excellent for occasional, hobbyist style use because you never have to twiddle your thumbs waiting for them to heat up (<4 seconds), and because you use them so infrequently the tips will tend to last forever (so the cost of replacement tips doesn't matter as much). FWIW mikeselectricstuff uses Metcal, and that guy tends to do everything the smart way so it was quite reassuring for me to find that out after buying mine. Ergonomically, it's nice that the cord is soft, the handpiece has the, uh, girth of a comfortable pen, and that the tip is close relative to where you grip it for better control.
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Dec 12, 2016 21:53
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Metcals are good, we use them at work. Very convenient to swap tips compared to Wellers, only thing I don't like as much is there's no temperature control since afaik the tip is made to reach a specific temperature. Not that it matters much, they seem to have excellent thermal regulation and a good power budget. Also my daily driver Weller is 80W
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Dec 12, 2016 23:51
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I haven't done scotch tape instead of soldering in a long-rear end time but I just did it now and it's working better than it has any right to. I replaced the 15-year old dual NiCad AA's on my cordless Wahl clippers with a single 18650 and gave myself a shave and a haircut without it cutting out. It's running at 4.2v on a full charge instead of the NiCad's 2.4v but doesn't seem to be overheating, just running with gusto. loving love these clippers, I've been shaving with them for as long as I've had facial hair, I've probably saved $10000 on razors and shaving cream so far.
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Dec 13, 2016 00:05
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Hi all. I could use a quick sanity check: I want to use a rotary power switch that can handle up to 5A at 24 VDC (from this power supply specifically). I don't expect it to ever actually see that kind of draw, but I'm trying to err on the side of caution. Most rotaries are apparently intended to be signal switchers and therefore rated at well below 1A, so these are the search criteria I used: http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Rotary-Switches/_/N-5g2i?P=1z0x8ggZ1yvsm2a&Ns=Pricing%7C0 and http://www.digikey.com/products/en/...d=0&pageSize=25 And the winners (i.e. cheapest option) are these: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/A21415RNCQ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNbjZ2WlReYqS7wnWG8l9OBJTM96huqHg%3d or http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/HS13X/360-2808-ND/1046759 Did I miss anything important? Admittedly, I'd like to use a rotary purely for aesthetics. If this isn't the way to go, I'll just deal with a toggle or rocker instead.
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Dec 13, 2016 23:53
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I built a "smart" dewheater for my telescope, but somehow managed to mess up even this simple circuit. My schematic (apologies for the messy layout):  EDIT: FIxed the 3-way junctions in the schematic Basically, I have two mosfets on a 12V line, and two on a 5V line (which is generated from a switching "ubec" regulator off the 12V). The mosfets gates are switched via GPIO pins on a Raspberry pi, and are wired with a small resistor in series to prevent ringing (I'm told...) and a 4.7k pulldown. The resistors by the switches represent the heating bands (nichrome wire). Finally, there are four 1-wire temperature sensors which are powered off 3V3 from the RPi, with pullup. Individually all the heating strips seemed to work fine on my bench, but once I moved everything outside and started using multiple heaters at once, some of the heaters will get "stuck" on, even when the GPIOs are set low. I started poking around with a multimeter and it seems related to the 1-wire temp sensors somehow. Power will be applied to a band until I unplug the temperature sensor, then the power cuts. If I plug the temp sensor back in, the band starts heating again. I've done a cursory check for shorts and didn't see anything. Before I tear everything apart, is there something fundamentally wrong with the circuit? I'm fairly incompetent with electronics and designing circuits so I wouldn't be surprised polyfractal fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 04:02
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In reality, Q2’s source is connected to ground, right? Your schematic is inconsistent with three‐way junctions.
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Dec 14, 2016 04:11
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Platystemon posted:In reality, Q2’s source is connected to ground, right? Your schematic is inconsistent with three‐way junctions. Urgh, yes, I'm just bad at KiCad. That should be a junction too. All the mosfets share a "solder line" on the back of the protoboard which is connected to ground. Edit: fixed the various 3-way junctions in the image. polyfractal fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 04:34
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The only thing that jumps out at me is curiosity about your power supplies. Are they referenced to the same ground? Can the RPi comfortably source enough to power all four temperature sensors? Edit: if not, you can run ds18820s off of 5V. Since the output is open drain, it won't effect your communication. Edit 2: apparently the RPi can supply up to 50mA, so that ain't it. KnifeWrench fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 05:04
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polyfractal posted:I built a "smart" dewheater for my telescope, but somehow managed to mess up even this simple circuit. took me an embarrassingly long time to recognize this as "dew-heater", wracking my brain to figure out what a "de-wheater" could be
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Dec 14, 2016 05:14
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Is the heating wire flat or wound around something? If you built an inductive load, the voltage at the mosfet drain may be spiking high enough to damage it. When it's stuck on, what happens if you measure at the gate? Do you see it at 0V and does poking it with a meter probe unstick it?
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Dec 14, 2016 06:45
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Trabant posted:Hi all. I could use a quick sanity check: Have you considered using a MOSFET as a switch? It might be easier than sourcing a switch that can handle the full load. It keeps the current extremely low over the switch contacts so you can use most anything without worrying that the switch will weld itself on. Like you say "Most rotaries are apparently intended to be signal switchers" and it sort of makes sense to use them as such.
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Dec 14, 2016 07:49
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Thanks for the comments everyone!  KnifeWrench posted:The only thing that jumps out at me is curiosity about your power supplies. Are they referenced to the same ground? Can the RPi comfortably source enough to power all four temperature sensors? Oh, maybe it is the grounds. Originally they were all referenced together. The 12V fed two of the mosfets and the 5V switching ubec, which then fed the other two mosfets and powered the RPi through its USB. And everything was tied into the 12V power supply's ground line. This seemed to be causing problems (after running the heaters for a minute or two the ubec would start flashing and the RPi would reboot) which I assumed meant the ubec was drawing too much current (it's rated for 5V/3A, but a cheap chinese part so I dunno, and no manual). So now the RPi is powered directly from a 5V wall wart, and the rest of the circuit is unchanged. BUT, various things tie back into the RPi's ground pins (because it made sense before), but I'm guessing that's probably an issue since the circuit has two different grounds now? For reference, one heater is rated at 12V/0.63A and the other is 5V/0.5A. The DC supply is rated 12V/4.75A, so theoretically it should have enough power for both heaters running full blast and the RPi, only ~1.8A total. Sagebrush posted:took me an embarrassingly long time to recognize this as "dew-heater", wracking my brain to figure out what a "de-wheater" could be Heh, oops sorry. Should have explained that one a bit better  It's a heater band that helps keep dew (and frost) from forming on the telescope's mirrors. This one is "smart" because it tracks the ambient temperature/humidity and keeps the mirrors just a few degrees above the dewpoint.But a de-wheater would be a nifty device too!  Foxfire_ posted:Is the heating wire flat or wound around something? If you built an inductive load, the voltage at the mosfet drain may be spiking high enough to damage it. I have two heaters: one is flat and glued directly to the back of a mirror, the other is loosely wound around a piece of flat plastic. It's 30cm long and makes perhaps a dozen turns around the plastic, which is about an inch wide, and 12 inches long. So it's not really "wound" so much as zig-zagged, if that makes sense. Would that still be a problem? I'll go poke about the gate today when I get a chance, it'll take some disassembly to get inside the project box polyfractal fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 13:57
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For the life of me I haven't been able to find any plug-in LED Christmas lights that don't have a terrible migraine-inducing 60Hz flicker. Would I be better off rectifying an AC strand, or modifying a battery powered strand with an AC adapter?
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Dec 15, 2016 01:06
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TerminalSaint posted:Would I be better off rectifying an AC strand, or modifying a battery powered strand with an AC adapter? AC strands have LEDs both ways, so you’d need to rig your own inverter with a suitably high frequency. Battery strands have all the LEDs installed with the same polarity, so all you need to do is give them a suitable DC power supply.
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Dec 15, 2016 02:07
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MisterOblivious posted:Have you considered using a MOSFET as a switch? It might be easier than sourcing a switch that can handle the full load. It keeps the current extremely low over the switch contacts so you can use most anything without worrying that the switch will weld itself on. Like you say "Most rotaries are apparently intended to be signal switchers" and it sort of makes sense to use them as such. Can't say I considered MOSFETs for this, but it sounds like viable solution. But I was impatient and settled on this one since the specs say it should be able to handle up to 5A DC. If not, I'll try a transistor and will be out of just $10... assuming I don't fry the rest of the electronics
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Dec 15, 2016 04:44
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polyfractal posted:Oh, maybe it is the grounds. Originally they were all referenced together. The 12V fed two of the mosfets and the 5V switching ubec, which then fed the other two mosfets and powered the RPi through its USB. And everything was tied into the 12V power supply's ground line. The microcontroller and the mosfets have to share a ground because when the gpio line goes high, you need it to be at least 2.5V above the source so that the mosfet switches on. The microcontroller output is relative to its own ground, so if the mosfet ground and microcontroller ground are unrelated, you're going to get behavior that depends on how the two grounds float relative to each other. (as an aside, you may not actually get >2.5V out of a worst-case rasberry pi GPIO according to some quick googling, but it's probably okay since you're unlikely to have worst-case parts) The 12V return should go to the mosfet source pins, the 5V wall wart return, and the other 5V supply return. polyfractal posted:I have two heaters: one is flat and glued directly to the back of a mirror, the other is loosely wound around a piece of flat plastic. It's 30cm long and makes perhaps a dozen turns around the plastic, which is about an inch wide, and 12 inches long. So it's not really "wound" so much as zig-zagged, if that makes sense. Would that still be a problem? Nah, it's almost certainly fine. And looking at the specs for that mosfet, it has big avalanche ratings anyway so it would survive a lot.
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Dec 15, 2016 09:01
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Foxfire_ posted:The microcontroller and the mosfets have to share a ground because when the gpio line goes high, you need it to be at least 2.5V above the source so that the mosfet switches on. The microcontroller output is relative to its own ground, so if the mosfet ground and microcontroller ground are unrelated, you're going to get behavior that depends on how the two grounds float relative to each other. (as an aside, you may not actually get >2.5V out of a worst-case rasberry pi GPIO according to some quick googling, but it's probably okay since you're unlikely to have worst-case parts) Ahh, this is probably the problem then, and would explain the semi-flaky behavior which has been really hard to pin down. Thanks for the detailed explanation, that makes a lot of sense! Silly question: I'm assuming all of these return lines should be wired "outside" of the RPi to prevent sinking too much current through the RPi itself? E.g. don't wire everything into the RPi's GND ping, but instead tie them all into a "star" external to the RPi?
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Dec 15, 2016 16:51
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polyfractal posted:Ahh, this is probably the problem then, and would explain the semi-flaky behavior which has been really hard to pin down. Thanks for the detailed explanation, that makes a lot of sense! Yes. You can use perf board, screw down terminals, or a big ol solder junction to join them. If you're using two GND pins on the Pi, then your current is having to pass through the ground trace or plane of the Pi, which may be bad (both for signal/RF reasons and for crap getting hot reasons).
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Dec 15, 2016 20:23
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| # ? May 28, 2024 22:48 |
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Current always flows in loops. Think about where the loop is going, what things it will touch, and what it will do the them. Current comes out of the 12V supply, flows through the heater, through the mosfet, then into the 12V return. You don't want to run those amps across through the Pi's board or IC. There is some resistance to the traces on the board and in the IC. 1. Things would get hot (P=I^2R, I is large, R is nonzero, so it'll dissipate heat) and 2. you will move the ground voltage the Pi sees (delta V=IR, I is large, R is nonzero, so there has to be some voltage drop) On the Pi's side, some current will come from the 3.3V supply on the Pi's board, into the Pi, out the GPIO pin, into the MOSFET gate, out the MOSFET source, and will need to get back to the 3.3V return on the Pi board. That's the only current coming out of the Pi's board and it'll be just the leakage for the MOSFET gate (nanoamps). That won't cause any significant heating or shifting the Pi's ground potential compared to your start ground point. If things were switching fast in the circuit, you'd also care about AC current vs DC current (at large frequencies inductance is more important that resistance and capacitors look like shorts, so they'll take different paths), but all the fast switching is inside the Pi board, and they've presumably designed it well enough to keep it looking like a mostly DC load. Foxfire_ fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 06:19
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