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You could if you wanted to, but im pretty sure you would need a crane to lift it when you are done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NPAjqQ4GvE I am pretty sure im going to make my next bed and something like that seems fairly easy to do.
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Jan 17, 2017 13:34
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Granite Octopus posted:And yeah I was never selective enough about the quality of my timber. You can't spend too much time looking over pieces before you buy them. Given the difficulties I am having matching up these boards to make the top to my workbench, I agree with you both. Something I've heard at least a few times is to purchase the widest board you can, and then cut it down to the size you need. I just purchased a few 2x12's to cut down into my sawbench - hopefully that helps a little bit with the crazy twisting I'm having. If I knew what I was looking for when I'm at Home Depot or Lowes, that would help - unfortunately even if I think something is straight there, by the time it gets home and into the workshop it usually has developed a cup or twist, or both.
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Jan 17, 2017 15:50
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Professor Shark posted:My girlfriend wants to buy a new bed and mattress, upgrading our Queen to a King I feel that would be fantastically heavy and expensive.
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Jan 17, 2017 16:12
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Butcher block bedframe would almost certainly require that you reinforce the floor. Seconding the suggestion to make a hollow bedframe and put some drawers or other storage into it.Zhent posted:If I knew what I was looking for when I'm at Home Depot or Lowes, that would help - unfortunately even if I think something is straight there, by the time it gets home and into the workshop it usually has developed a cup or twist, or both. You may well already know about this, but the trick to detecting warped boards is to sight down their length with your eye at one end of the board. This creates foreshortening that makes it much easier to detect any curves. That doesn't mean they won't spontaneously warp when moved from the Home Depot environment to your workshop environment, of course. 
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Jan 17, 2017 16:57
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Yeah, I hadn't considered the weight, I don't think my old house can take it.
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Jan 17, 2017 17:23
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Professor Shark posted:Yeah, I hadn't considered the weight, I don't think my old house can take it. Also, the matress needs to breathe and a solid bottom would block it. When I changed bed size, I put off getting/making a frame for about 3 months and used the matress on the floor. About 2 months in I noticed an ant here or there on the bed and then 3 months in I got out of bed one morning to see the wood floor buckled. The sweat wasn't air drying but trying to migrate through the floor which had a vapor barrier under it. I got the cheapest frame from Ikea and I had to rip the last row of flooring thinner but it's back to normal now.
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Jan 17, 2017 18:02
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Falcon2001 posted:[*]On that note, his workbench is...difficult. I should have built a knockdown nicholson or another design or read the Workbench book by Schwartz, but it'll work out. I'd like hear specifics about difficulties building it, especially about the aprons. It looks straightforward.
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Jan 17, 2017 18:11
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wormil posted:I'd like hear specifics about difficulties building it, especially about the aprons. It looks straightforward. Honestly I'm probably grumbling, but his plans are a bit difficult to follow. I'm following the plans in his working wood book and it just feels very confusing when I compare it to other books I have, but it's possible that months of part-time irritation has rendered me less than reasonable about this. I also wish I'd build one with the...uh...holes in it. Where you can put chisels and saws and stuff.
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Jan 17, 2017 19:05
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Falcon2001 posted:Man, waxing my plane is like the craziest thing. I have a solid hunk of beeswax that I just rub on and suddenly that thing flies across the wood. It doesn't even look like it leaves any residue, but there you go. Handy tip for anyone that uses hand tools I guess. This may be my ignorance, but when you say 'solid hunk of beeswax' do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stakich-Pure-Yellow-BEESWAX-Block/dp/B00F3CNMV4 ? I haven't every tried waxing the bottom of my planes, but I probably should
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Jan 17, 2017 19:29
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bred posted:Also, the matress needs to breathe and a solid bottom would block it. I've been using a mattress directly on the floor for over a decade now without problems.  And yes, I've shifted it around and looked at the floor underneath it. So your experience is probably at least somewhat dependent on local environment, size of mattress, and sweatiness of sleeper.
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Jan 17, 2017 19:38
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Falcon2001 posted:I also wish I'd build one with the...uh...holes in it. Where you can put chisels and saws and stuff. Why not make a rack that you can just bolt to the bench or better yet make it removable so you can move it to different locations on the bench?
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Jan 17, 2017 19:47
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Zhent posted:This may be my ignorance, but when you say 'solid hunk of beeswax' do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stakich-Pure-Yellow-BEESWAX-Block/dp/B00F3CNMV4 ? I haven't every tried waxing the bottom of my planes, but I probably should It's v traditional. I use it on the bottom of my wood-body planes and it chooches real nice. For my metal planes I just have a tee shirt wadded up in a tuna can and soaked with 3 in 1 oil. That's fine but it can tend to leave a black residue if there are any metal bits in the oil.
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Jan 17, 2017 20:14
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Zhent posted:This may be my ignorance, but when you say 'solid hunk of beeswax' do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stakich-Pure-Yellow-BEESWAX-Block/dp/B00F3CNMV4 ? I haven't every tried waxing the bottom of my planes, but I probably should I use a candle, works a treat.
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Jan 17, 2017 20:49
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I made some more bottle openers https://imgur.com/a/13i3F One from padauk/ebony and 9 from maple/padauk. Man, that padauk is SO orange and the dust gets everywhere. So much more noticeable that the regular brown tones of cherry, walnut, etc. 
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Jan 17, 2017 20:55
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You can also use paste wax. It's what I finish my sliding jigs in.
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Jan 17, 2017 21:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can also use paste wax. It's what I finish my sliding jigs in. Also grating or smushing up beeswax and mixing it with a touch of mineral spirits does the same job for slightly cheaper
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Jan 17, 2017 21:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can also use paste wax. It's what I finish my sliding jigs in. I've done that on my table saw, and other table type tools. Tim.
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Jan 17, 2017 21:41
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Zhent posted:This may be my ignorance, but when you say 'solid hunk of beeswax' do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stakich-Pure-Yellow-BEESWAX-Block/dp/B00F3CNMV4 ? I haven't every tried waxing the bottom of my planes, but I probably should Yup, almost exactly that. Doesn't leave a residue or anything, can barely tell it affected the plane at all (metal plane, for clarification) by sight but it drastically improves the speed of planing. Skippy Granola posted:Also grating or smushing up beeswax and mixing it with a touch of mineral spirits does the same job for slightly cheaper You can also melt beeswax and mineral oil for a similar thing. I used a 2:1 oil:wax mixture on my cutting boards and it worked pretty well, I assume it'd also work for plane smoothing and would stay pretty liquid, but I guess you run the risk of leaving residue or oiling what you're working on. Candle would work too and are conveniently pencil shaped, minus the whole wick thing. Falcon2001 fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 00:17
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Sellers is a good woodworker and craftsman, but he is an awful writer. He also constantly forgets just how big the gulf is between his skills and the skills of a new woodworker. I can say that the knockdown Nicholson that Phone is building at my place is more effort than Schwarz makes it out to be, but the directions are crystal clear and any confusion we've had were due to us accidentally skipping a page.
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Jan 18, 2017 01:22
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Also I would not recommend doing his poor man's router thing. My chisel got stuck in the block of wood and I had a hell of a time trying to get it out...was probably the dumbest and most dangerous thing I've done to date. It's what convinced me to get a real hand router tbh.
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Jan 18, 2017 03:02
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Flattened Spoon posted:Also I would not recommend doing his poor man's router thing. My chisel got stuck in the block of wood and I had a hell of a time trying to get it out...was probably the dumbest and most dangerous thing I've done to date. It's what convinced me to get a real hand router tbh. Also real router planes are an order of magnitude better than some wacky oldman chisel jammed in a block of wood trick.
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Jan 18, 2017 03:03
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Just chiming in to echo the above sentiments. Poor mans router is bad and not good at all.
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Jan 18, 2017 03:30
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Is boiled linseed oil food safe for using on a pizza peel, or do I need to go get mineral oil?
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Jan 18, 2017 03:49
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It's not food safe.
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Jan 18, 2017 04:55
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Squibbles posted:I made some more bottle openers  These look fantastic! Where do you get those openers?
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Jan 18, 2017 05:08
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Squibbles posted:I made some more bottle openers Are you making these to sell or does everyone you know now have one.
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Jan 18, 2017 05:13
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Super Waffle posted:
Amazon has those as well as other animals Flattened Spoon posted:Also I would not recommend doing his poor man's router thing. My chisel got stuck in the block of wood and I had a hell of a time trying to get it out...was probably the dumbest and most dangerous thing I've done to date. It's what convinced me to get a real hand router tbh. I have a nice looking scar on my left forearm from when, if I remember correctly, I was making some blackberry trellises. My chisel was getting stuck so often that I sort of absent-minded-ly was rocking and pulling it out. It got stuck, so I gave it a hard tug... and it came out freely. I was a bit shocked, then I looked at my arm and a lot of blood started coming out of the imperceptible slice I'd given myself! Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 11:22
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GEMorris posted:Sellers is a good woodworker and craftsman, but he is an awful writer. He also constantly forgets just how big the gulf is between his skills and the skills of a new woodworker. Yeah I'm currently in the process of making this bench, and it still amazes me that he put his together so quickly, but I'm really enjoying making it and the plans are very easy to read (with the exception of the different parts to the legs, I had to label each piece there because I'm kind of an idiot and the plans weren't really obvious to me on those). I started mine on Saturday and have been putzing around 30-60 minutes a day on it. I finished the top and the legs on one side, and at this rate hope to have finished by the end of this weekend.
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Jan 18, 2017 12:58
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I'm looking at making a bookshelf this weekend. http://www.ohohblog.com/2013/02/diy-bookcase-librero.html These plans look reasonably decent, and i've been playing around a bit. If i reduce the "A" parts to 8 instead of 16 (halving the width of the shelf support), I can fit this into a single sheet of plywood. I've checked the layout with CutList Plus, but for whatever reason it won't put part "C" on the same sheet. (probably because of grain alignment, but i don't care about that) Are my structural changes going to be no problem? I'd rather limit myself to a single sheet of plywood vs 2. Layout: Note: There is enough room on the right (empty white space)for part C (10" x 36.5")  
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Jan 18, 2017 20:04
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toplitzin posted:I'm looking at making a bookshelf this weekend. Sorry in advance, I'm going to come off like an rear end in a top hat but I'm legit trying to help. I wouldn't waste my time building this because it's poorly designed. and isn't going to be very strong and will be worse when you halve the supports. The only resistance it has to racking is the thickness of the shelf supports and that rectangle of plywood in the center and I don't believe it's enough. If you put much load on this and then push or pull sideways it's going to fold like an accordion. You could increase stiffness by putting plywood behind the top and bottom shelves as well, or attaching it to the wall, but overall I'm not very impressed with the design. Realistically it will probably be fine for awhile if don't put much weight on it and don't move it around so if you want to try it and only mean it to be temporary then give it a shot.
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Jan 18, 2017 20:24
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wormil posted:Sorry in advance, I'm going to come off like an rear end in a top hat but I'm legit trying to help. I wouldn't waste my time building this because it's poorly designed. and isn't going to be very strong and will be worse when you halve the supports. The only resistance it has to racking is the thickness of the shelf supports and that rectangle of plywood in the center and I don't believe it's enough. If you put much load on this and then push or pull sideways it's going to fold like an accordion. You could increase stiffness by putting plywood behind the top and bottom shelves as well, or attaching it to the wall, but overall I'm not very impressed with the design. Realistically it will probably be fine for awhile if don't put much weight on it and don't move it around so if you want to try it and only mean it to be temporary then give it a shot. I keyed in on that one since it matched the style of a MDF one I already have.  http://home.woot.com/offers/cassidy-4-level-bookshelf-2 I figured if it's good enough out of MDF, it'd be fine out of decent 3/4" Ply. I'm not going for a shelf full of books, but mostly office tchotchkes/Funko stuff/models. I'm open for other ideas but i'm trying to hold steady around the price of a single sheet of plywood because any more than that and i can grab a cheap target/amazon self assemble bookshelf.
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Jan 18, 2017 20:34
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Eh, from the blog it looks like it works fine. It's just a fancier variation of the cinder-block-and-pallet-wood school of furniture making. FYI though, a good bump to the side will probably shred the glue bonds and topple it.
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Jan 18, 2017 21:04
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toplitzin posted:I keyed in on that one since it matched the style of a MDF one I already have. Please don't post offensive things in our safe space. toplitzin posted:I'm open for other ideas but i'm trying to hold steady around the price of a single sheet of plywood because any more than that and i can grab a cheap target/amazon self assemble bookshelf. Just go buy something pre-made, if budget is your primary concern to the point that you are weakening an already bad design you aren't going to save anything at all by building it yourself.
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Jan 18, 2017 21:10
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Super Waffle posted:
I got the bear ones off aliexpress. I think that's the cheapest place to find stuff like that in bulk. It was probably $3-4 each in a lot of 10? Got the magnets there to. Some nice 1" round and something like 10mm thick n52 rare earth ones. This was a batch of 10 I made for co-workers but from the ones I've made in the past pretty much everyone I know has one now plus around 10 that my mom sold when she was doing craft shows and farmers markets to sell her baking. I think they sell pretty well actually and are relatively easy to batch out if anyone is interested in selling at craft shows. I think you could probably sell them for at least $30-50 each given the openers themselves without magnets or wood often seem to retail for $20 or so. Also, boy howdy is it ever easier to deal with the lamination cleanup with a thickness planer. Previously I did it all with hand plane and random orbital sander and that process felt like it was the most time consuming part by far. With the thickness planer it just takes a few minutes to clean up all the joints and flatten everything out then just final smoothing with the sander. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 21:41
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toplitzin posted:I'm open for other ideas but i'm trying to hold steady around the price of a single sheet of plywood because any more than that and i can grab a cheap target/amazon self assemble bookshelf. At a minimum, I wouldn't decrease the size of the shelf supports unless you beef it up somewhere else. Here is a similar idea but much better designed. http://modern.creairtive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Modern-White-Bookcase.jpg wormil fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 22:15
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GEMorris posted:Just go buy something pre-made, if budget is your primary concern to the point that you are weakening an already bad design you aren't going to save anything at all by building it yourself. It's not solely budget, it's also waste because my woodworking projects are few and far between so the excess scrap would sit around for a while. I'm open for other plans/suggestions if you have any handy. Edit: I'm out of practice overall, so I can't tell what's a good plan vs "reddit/pintrest project of death" Edit 2: With some of the leftover offcut from the single sheet idea, there should be enough for some backside (cross?)braces, no? Or in other words, what could I tweak in the remaining wood to improve the structure while still only using a single sheet. (I like these kinds of challenges. My last project was the RockBack Chair from Make which was also a single sheet project.) toplitzin fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jan 19, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 22:16
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What Wormil just posted (maybe edited in?) looks A) cool B) sturdy and topple resistant and C) incredibly easy to make. Like I think I could whip that together in a day or two with some plywood and a bunch of screws, to do it the easy schmuck way with modern fasteners. E: Racking is where stuff leans sideways, right? All of the 90 degree joints in what Wormil posted that are facing different directions means that it can't lean without completely tearing apart the wood, at least based on my understanding of torque and geometry. Magres fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 22:38
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As practice for my toolchest build, I did my first ever dovetails tonight with some poorly-squared scrap wood. Turned out all right! Not too difficult. I had to pare down the tails a little to get them to fit onto the pins; I think I put the saw kerf on the wrong side of my pin marking lines. I also wasn't very happy with how the chisel cut out the waste. The end grain between the pins split quite a lot and the surface didn't end up anywhere near square. Going to do some research on that. Otherwise, just some gaps from imperfectly cut lines, nothing practice won't fix.
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Jan 19, 2017 00:55
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So assuming I'm aiming for 'really nice but not Festool nice', what are recommendations for planers? Getting a bit sick of stock setup and want the option to buy rough lumber and I just don't have the time to do that all by hand.
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Jan 19, 2017 07:19
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Popular Mechanics last issue had some reviews of planers and they really liked the one by Ridgid. I'd grab one myself if I had any space for
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Jan 19, 2017 07:50
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