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Motronic posted:Could you please explain this? I've never heard of renting a water heater. It's very common here. You pay a monthly fee (like $15/month) and they remove the old water heater, install a new one, warranty it and perform the maintenance. I've always purchased instead of rented but for people who aren't going to know what to do in an emergency and don't want to maintain things it's an option. They'll also rent you furnaces and AC packages.
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Jan 27, 2017 22:49
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sirr0bin posted:It's very common here. You pay a monthly fee (like $15/month) and they remove the old water heater, install a new one, warranty it and perform the maintenance. That's......interesting.......where is "here"? And what is maintenance on a water heater other than draining it annually to remove sediment and potentially replacing electrodes every several years? And even if you don't do that there is a manufacturer warranty.....potentially you need to do those things to easily qualify. Seriously, I'm not giving you poo poo. I want to understand how this is a viable business model because I may have a new business idea for my area.
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Jan 28, 2017 02:04
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Motronic posted:That's......interesting.......where is "here"? Winnipeg, Manitoba. Oh I agree, there's very little to maintain on a water heater but people go for rentals like crazy. When you're buying a house it often lists in the ad "heater rental" or something like that because you have to take over the rental or buy it out. Even the $450 home depot entry level has a 6 year warranty and that would cost over a grand on rental.
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Jan 28, 2017 02:28
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Motronic posted:That's......interesting.......where is "here"? Ontario, Canada. I think it's very common across all of Canada. It's dumb. I mean, the majority of people rent a water heater. They just don't consider the option of buying one around here. Instead, we're paying almost 20 CAD a month (after taxes) to have this heater. In theory if there's an issue we can call and get it serviced for free, or replaced, but in practice in the nine or so years we've been in this house there's been no issue. The vast majority of people have no issue with their water heaters since they're so reliable. The companies that rent them out simply replace them after however many years to avoid any maintenance and after having made plenty of profit. I don't like renting but I've been too lazy to do anything about it. These energy rebates simply brought it back to mind and give me an incentive to get rid of this. So hopefully I can replace it with something more efficient so I get the rebate, eliminate the monthly rental cost, and reduce our monthly heating bill. The only cost, with luck, to me will be the initial purchase and installation price. Typically the rental contracts are transferred with the purchase of a house, that's how we ended up in ours.
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Jan 28, 2017 04:14
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kid sinister posted:Let me guess, that faucet had a hot valve, cold valve, and one on the spout? I've heard of that happening in older dorms with janitor closets. The janitor mixes up hot and cold to fill his mop bucket, then shuts off the spout. With the hot and cold both open, the cold ends up supplying the hot side and they mix together. Do you have a fixture like this? Post a picture and we can tell you how to disable the spout to prevent it from happening again. Sorry, I went off on work travel right after I got it working. I just want a hot bath in that claw foot tub dammit.  Cold comes in to the cold side, the bottom splitter (was the problem) is cold going to the shower now and to the washer when I get one. Top splitter is hot and same set up. I planned on building a new shower this summer, there's a lovely shower stall and that's it now, and having a real plumber run real pipes instead of hoses going everywhere. Also, everything's backwards. Slate Slabrock fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Jan 28, 2017 |
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Jan 28, 2017 04:33
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Slate Slabrock posted:Sorry, I went off on work travel right after I got it working. I just want a hot bath in that claw foot tub dammit. Yep, just as I thought. Remove that sillcock/hose bibb/whatever from where the hot and cold join together. If you do that, then whenever someone leaves open both the hot and cold sides, it will come streaming out that hose and people will close off both those valves, ensuring that both your hot and cold lines stay separate from each other. Sometimes, you got to think ahead and prevent people from ruining their own showers inadvertently. edit: If you want, you would leave a connection there for a hose. The main thing is getting rid of that valve.
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Jan 28, 2017 04:47
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On the plus side, there's not much I can't fix on a water heater now.
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Jan 28, 2017 05:22
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Question about water softeners (and if this has been answered already, forgive me, the thread is too long to get through): I need a new 40,000 grain softener, for rural well water and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience/opinions on them? I'd love to get a smaller combo model (like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-40-000-Grain-Water-Softener-GXSH40V/203219780) but I'm wondering if they have a shorter life or are not as reliable as a traditional tank and salt tank models (like this https://www.amazon.com/Fleck-Soften...2470955011&th=1) Also, is there any advantage to going over capacity on a softener? In the case of the second one, it's actually $20 cheaper to get a 48,000 grain model instead of a 40,000 grain.
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Jan 28, 2017 22:32
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I've known about a leak for a little too long. At first I thought it was the roof, but realized it was the drain for my kitchen sink. Tore open the wall behind the cabinet and, well, this was the result. I think I found the leak. (The back wall behind the kitchen sink is easily accessible.) So that lower section of pipe needs to be cut from what I understand. Do I have to thread it or is there a reliable compression-type fitting that I can use instead? And while I am at it, it's a mess under the sink. Can I combine the 2 drain lines into one so that there is only one connection at the stack? Speaking of the stack, I take it I have to support it while I remove and cut/re-thread? Can plastic fittings support the 10-12' of iron pipe stack?   Oh, and that silver pipe going from the garbage disposal? YEAH, that sprung a leak too. Trying to justify replacing the double-bin sink with a single while I am at it.
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Jan 29, 2017 06:04
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stealie72 posted:Question about water softeners (and if this has been answered already, forgive me, the thread is too long to get through): Get the fleck water softener. The fleck will have better quality of cation resign in it. And the control head is much higher quality. You can also find people who will work on the fleck head ( and tons of youtube videos). The GE I I think will be harder to find parts on.
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Jan 29, 2017 06:46
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Fire Storm posted:I've known about a leak for a little too long. At first I thought it was the roof, but realized it was the drain for my kitchen sink. Tore open the wall behind the cabinet and, well, this was the result. I think I found the leak. (The back wall behind the kitchen sink is easily accessible.) ...You were able to stick a reciprocating saw blade through your pipe by hand??? Anyway, the proper fix would be to support the weight of the stack, cut out the problem section, slide on some no hub couplings, put in a new section and tighten down those couplings. Yep, that is definitely a mess under the sink. Why is there an outlet in there if there's romex going into the disposal? Yes, you can combine the two sink drains into one stack connection as long as you cap off the other. I would probably use the top and cap off the bottom. Get a disposal drain kit, probably an end tee kit since the drain on your left bowl lines up so well with the stack. Use a straight pipe off your disposal.
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Jan 29, 2017 18:00
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I'm putting pex adapters and end cap on my new shower valve and I've screwed them in as far as I can get by cranking on them with a wrench.   They're almost completely in, the cap on the right is the least secure at over 3/4 of the way in. I'm worried about causing leaks by overly torquing it, but also worried about not tightening it enough? Should I crank on it more or will this be okay?
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Jan 29, 2017 20:31
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Get the fleck water softener. The fleck will have better quality of cation resign in it. And the control head is much higher quality. You can also find people who will work on the fleck head ( and tons of youtube videos). The GE I I think will be harder to find parts on. Cool. That makes sense. The one I have now has a fleck head and it lasted more than two decades.
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Jan 29, 2017 20:58
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Chef Boyardeez Nuts posted:I'm putting pex adapters and end cap on my new shower valve and I've screwed them in as far as I can get by cranking on them with a wrench. No you buried the gently caress out of that. It's tight enough now :P. You should be fine even though its over tightened. You can't back it out because the brass is stretched out. So leave as it.
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Jan 29, 2017 21:56
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My kitchen sink just started leaking from underneath. The water is coming from the center hole of the faucet only when the hot tap is turned. I don't think I can tighten anything else that would be causing the leak since I'm thinking it is coming form somewhere in the valve itself. Any simple check I can do before I head over to the hardware store and buy a complete faucet assembly? Thanks
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Jan 30, 2017 02:38
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kid sinister posted:...You were able to stick a reciprocating saw blade through your pipe by hand???  In fact, the whole pipe appears to be thinning due to corrosion. Assuming because galvanized pipe into cast or black pipe? I can't get a pic of it due to angle, but the black pipe? Where the threads were is just a mess of rust. SO I guess I need to re-tap/chase the threads OR just use a flexible adapter? kid sinister posted:Yep, that is definitely a mess under the sink. Why is there an outlet in there if there's romex going into the disposal?
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Jan 30, 2017 03:02
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diremonk posted:My kitchen sink just started leaking from underneath. Kinfolk Jones posted:Hi all. I have a toilet question. Two of our toilets have started malfunctioning occasionally, so I decided to replace the guts in the tank. I bought this, which will also make them dual flush. I read that they don't work with Mansfield toilets because of the flush valve, but just from looking inside the bowl (Mancasa by Mansfield), it seems like it should work fine. Any thoughts? My personal experience with a unit that is almost exactly like that also bought at home depot is that they are kinda garbage. I put one in my place and one in at my mother-in-laws to fix old leaking units. The one at the MIL's is still working okay but the one at my place had the actuator break right as guests were arriving for a party. I swapped the old fashioned kit out of the basement toilet and got it going again in 10 minutes but I was not super thrilled. Also I live in an old house with old plumbing so a little extra water helping things along the way probably isn't a bad thing.
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Jan 30, 2017 23:40
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diremonk posted:My kitchen sink just started leaking from underneath. The water is coming from the center hole of the faucet only when the hot tap is turned. I don't think I can tighten anything else that would be causing the leak since I'm thinking it is coming form somewhere in the valve itself. Any simple check I can do before I head over to the hardware store and buy a complete faucet assembly? Upload a picture of the faucet. I imagine there is an O ring in there you could replace that would fix it.
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Jan 31, 2017 00:41
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Fire Storm posted:YEP. All corroded to hell. The pipe came out with absolutely no resistance! ... because the threaded part of the pipe is all corroded to hell. You might need to replace that entire stack if it's that badly rusted, possibly more than that stack. I hate to say it here in DIY, but you may need a professional, at least to inspect your pipes further and see how much damage there is. Also, that's not black pipe. Black pipe is for gas only. Edit: that definitely looks like somebody used romex for an appliance cord. I'd have to reread my NEC book to see if that's allowed, but a flexible appliance cord would definitely be easier to plug in and not knock over everything in that cabinet from its rigidity. Edit2: if some weekend warrior used romex instead of a proper cord for your disposal, then you need to check the grounding, both at the disposal and inside the plug on the other end. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 01:50
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Upload a picture of the faucet. I imagine there is an O ring in there you could replace that would fix it. Here's a top and bottom shot of the faucet in question. It's a price pfister faucet, but I'm sure it's not in the greatest shape since I've already had to replace both of the cartridges.   In the second pic you can see a drop of water forming next to the center hole. I've checked all the connections and everything is beyond finger tight so that is why I'm thinking it is within the fixture itself.
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Jan 31, 2017 22:21
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diremonk posted:Here's a top and bottom shot of the faucet in question. It's a price pfister faucet, but I'm sure it's not in the greatest shape since I've already had to replace both of the cartridges. It could just be an O ring on that spout. I'm not entirely sure though.
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Feb 1, 2017 04:20
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Nevermind, got it. It's this, which far as I can tell is model a112.18.1m, or something close to it. 
jackpot fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 02:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It could just be an O ring on that spout. I'm not entirely sure though. Ended up replacing it with a new fixture, but thanks all for advice. Though it was strange that when I removed the old fixture I found out that they had used clear silicone to seal the gap between the sink and fixture. I thought it was normal to use putty or just the plastic gasket that the faucet came with.
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Feb 2, 2017 20:23
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diremonk posted:Ended up replacing it with a new fixture, but thanks all for advice. Though it was strange that when I removed the old fixture I found out that they had used clear silicone to seal the gap between the sink and fixture. I thought it was normal to use putty or just the plastic gasket that the faucet came with. Ya those faucets are pretty much a throw away. And clear sillicon is odd. I'd use putty if you can. Putty will help over the years keeping it from looking all nasty when you remove the faucet. Even with a clear gromit provided by factory. The putty works better.
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Feb 3, 2017 02:04
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Apartment plumbing question: When the faucet rests for a while, the cold tap is warm to hot and stinks. How alarmed should I be? Backstory: I'm the sort of paranoid who tends to wash his hands when he gets home. I started noticing that after washing my hands, they'd smell exactly like a dirty kitchen sponge, especially when you microwave one to kill bacteria. Figuring maybe it was a bad job cleaning faucets I'd just rewash my hands and the faucet and not pay any attention. Now I think I've deduced that anytime the faucet rests for a while, say overnight, the cold pipe is hot and smells. This flushes out after about 10 seconds. Generally the faucet tastes clean and non-metallic so I haven't had a reason to suspect pipe issues. If it's just stale water from metal pipes I'm okay rinsing it out as a workaround. Just wondering if this jumps out as signifying something worse.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:10
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revdrkevind posted:Apartment plumbing question: When the faucet rests for a while, the cold tap is warm to hot and stinks. How alarmed should I be? It sounds like its an older building and you should just let the water run before you wash your hands. You could always talk to your local water district about your concerns.
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Feb 7, 2017 01:00
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It sounds like its an older building and you should just let the water run before you wash your hands. You could always talk to your local water district about your concerns. Cool. They clearly spent a lot of money refinishing the place- it's just annoying to find out they skimped in the dumbest possible ways. They installed double-pane windows but not ones that are actually insulated properly so they sweat like a bad metaphor and are definitely going to rot in a few years. I'll have to get out before then. Why would you even do that... but that's a question for another day! Thanks.
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Feb 7, 2017 16:53
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The bucket that my sump pump sits in keeps getting buoyant and tipping over, causing the space to start to flood. I keep catching it before it gets stupid bad but obviously this isn't working. I've got 3 8" cinder blocks on it as is to keep it down but it's not cutting it again. I'm gathering the problem is the weak/small holes around the bottom of it are not allowing enough flow when it rains hard enough. I was thinking I'll drill a set of bigger holes a bit higher on the bucket so if it reaches that point the water will flood in faster. Though what might that due to the longevity of my pump? Can I get something that makes the float a little higher so it has to fill more before firing so the pump turns on longer/less frequent? Plus obviously my yard drainage needs some work that will come this summer.
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Feb 9, 2017 20:04
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LethalGeek posted:The bucket that my sump pump sits in keeps getting buoyant and tipping over, causing the space to start to flood. I keep catching it before it gets stupid bad but obviously this isn't working. I've got 3 8" cinder blocks on it as is to keep it down but it's not cutting it again. I'm gathering the problem is the weak/small holes around the bottom of it are not allowing enough flow when it rains hard enough. I was thinking I'll drill a set of bigger holes a bit higher on the bucket so if it reaches that point the water will flood in faster. Though what might that due to the longevity of my pump? Can I get something that makes the float a little higher so it has to fill more before firing so the pump turns on longer/less frequent? Can you post a picture of the set up?
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Feb 10, 2017 00:36
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Can you post a picture of the set up? I was thinking I will once I can actually see it again. Right now it's still under about...idk a foot of water.
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Feb 10, 2017 01:02
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Figured here is best for my question. When I turn the water on in my bathroom sink water starts flowing up out of the drain of my bathtub. Is there somewhere that's clogged I should look for? Would pictures of anything help? I have called the maintenance guy for the property i live at but it's also my dad so hes never in to much of a rush to help us.
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Feb 15, 2017 00:43
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You have a drain line clogged most likely. It should be snaked sooner then later.
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Feb 15, 2017 02:11
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You have a drain line clogged most likely. It should be snaked sooner then later. So this only started after draino was poured in the bath tub. Don't know if that affects anything.
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Feb 15, 2017 03:35
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clam ache posted:So this only started after draino was poured in the bath tub. Don't know if that affects anything. It may have moved the clog further down the line. Its tough to say how it was plumbed.
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Feb 15, 2017 04:16
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It may have moved the clog further down the line. Its tough to say how it was plumbed. If i get a picture of the archaic set up behind the tub could you maybe lead me in a direction of what to check?
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Feb 15, 2017 19:54
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So there's a leaky pipe under my tub. It's at a joint and only happens when the tub is full and the weight is putting pressure on the joint to gape. Online research is sending me in two different directions, either just apply some sealant and be done or replace the whole joint. What's my best course of action?
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Feb 16, 2017 01:15
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clam ache posted:If i get a picture of the archaic set up behind the tub could you maybe lead me in a direction of what to check? You could just run a powered snake from the sink itself, It's a little further away but its really hard to snake thru a tub.
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Feb 16, 2017 02:39
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there wolf posted:So there's a leaky pipe under my tub. It's at a joint and only happens when the tub is full and the weight is putting pressure on the joint to gape. Online research is sending me in two different directions, either just apply some sealant and be done or replace the whole joint. What's my best course of action? I'd rather replace it but thats just me.. Depending where it is you may be able to just tighten it up.
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Feb 16, 2017 02:40
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'd rather replace it but thats just me.. Depending where it is you may be able to just tighten it up.  Arrows point to the two suspects.
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Feb 16, 2017 03:48
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there wolf posted:
Righty tighty.
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