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Oh, forgot to mention this, but Trumpeter is doing something mental. I was looking at their display table and it looks like they are making a kit of the USS Hornet as she was during the Doolittle raid, in something bigger than 1/350? Difficult to tell, but the kit is silly huge - I'm guessing 1/144?
Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 04:05
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Nebakenezzer posted:Oh, forgot to mention this, but Trumpeter is doing something mental. I was looking at their display table and it looks like they are making a kit of the USS Wasp as she was during the Doolittle raid, in something bigger than 1/350? Difficult to tell, but the kit is silly huge - I'm guessing 1/144? Stop talking, post photos  e: It's probably an addition to their 1/200 line NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 04:09
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Old Swerdlow posted:I am not 100% on this but I believe that Vallejo paints come pre-thinned. Either way if you are planning to airbrush acrylic paint, it is really easy to thin. You just need to add some water or windex until you get the correct consistency. Vallejo Model Air and Game Air paints are thinned and mostly work right out of the bottle (a few colors are slightly too thick), their normal line will not spray without thinning. Their metallic non-air range does not thin well at all, the Air metallics go on even with a brush like a dream. And while this is a contentious subject, just thin with water or a specific thinner. It's water based paint.
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Feb 5, 2017 04:09
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Feb 5, 2017 04:14
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Italeri seems like one of those manufacturers where everyone looks at their stuff and goes "Hmm, that's nice.", but no one actually ever buys their stuff. I'll take a look at anyone who makes cheap tanks in 1/56
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Feb 5, 2017 05:38
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I want the full set of 1/35 torpedo boats from Italeri so I can build and display them - the Elco 80' PT-596, PT-109, the Italian MAS 568, the Vosper 73' MTB, and now the S-Boot
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Feb 5, 2017 05:59
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Awesome. I agree with NTRabbit that this is a new addition to their 1/200 line of ships. Fantastic stuff for the big plastic modellers.
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Feb 5, 2017 07:13
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It even has the correct number of Mitchells, unless I'm miscounting
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Feb 5, 2017 09:12
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Rocks. There's something very cathartic about casting and painting up rocks. 
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Feb 5, 2017 10:36
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Rocks. How do you cast rocks? Find a rock, plaster cast that biznatch?
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Feb 5, 2017 15:26
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Woodland scenics sell rock moulds. One of them looks like a dong.
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Feb 5, 2017 15:55
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Nebakenezzer posted:How do you cast rocks? Find a rock, plaster cast that biznatch? You can, but as TTerible said, the Woodland Scenics rock molds are really affordable and produce consistent results. Creating your own molds isn't too hard, it just takes a lot of time. Painting a 12+ coats of liquid latex on a rock, with multiple hour drying time between coats. Too much hassle, really. I bought a 30 pound bag of Hydrocal from a local supplier of casting and molding supplies, so I've got enough to last me ages. Casting with Hyrdocal is super easy too, so you can cast up a rock and demold it within a half an hour. Then you just paint the rock with very thin paint washes. I like to use the Flory sludge washes, thinned out at least half and half with some wet-water. Thin, watery washes let the casting itself soak up and blend the colors nicely. You just spot various complimentary rock colors around the surface, and do on overall wash with your base rock color. You can do a very thin dark wash after this to get all the crevices, and then finally a little dry brushing to bring out the edges of the rock features. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 16:09
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I finished my 1:48 Hasegawa P-40 Warhawk (Jt86 09086). There is no weathering because I've ruined 2 of the last 3 models in the final painting stages and I just wanted to finally complete a model and call it done. There are a lot of fiddly bits on the underside, but overall, it was a nice build. I wish the instructions would have split the underside build out into more steps because there are a couple steps where there are so many parts and lines that it gets confusing. I ended up using a red sharpie on the instruction page to mark every part that I applied so I wouldn't forget any. One important thing to note is that for the brown/green camo scheme, it suggested Mr. Color C361 and C369 with alternates of C22 and C23. I went with the alternates and they were much less contrasting than the primary colors would have been. I should have tested first instead of trusting that the would turn out looking good. As you can see, the contrast between the two is very low. It should look like a very dark green and medium tan. One technique I tried for the first time is to add a bit of the body color (in this case, I mixed the green and brown) to the final flat coat. Not a lot, just a drop or so in 1/2 oz is about the mix I used. I thought it worked very well to tone down the decals slightly so the whites don't stand out.    edit: Are the image links broken for anybody else? They look broken to me, but if I right click and "view in new tab" I can see them. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 16:19
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I think it's because the images are hosted on a site that doesn't pass images off to a secure site like the forums. Some sites are configured weird and can't handle https sites.
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Feb 5, 2017 16:29
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Italeri seems like one of those manufacturers where everyone looks at their stuff and goes "Hmm, that's nice.", but no one actually ever buys their stuff.
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Feb 5, 2017 16:56
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SkunkDuster posted:I finished my 1:48 Hasegawa P-40 Warhawk (Jt86 09086). There is no weathering because I've ruined 2 of the last 3 models in the final painting stages and I just wanted to finally complete a model and call it done. There are a lot of fiddly bits on the underside, but overall, it was a nice build. I wish the instructions would have split the underside build out into more steps because there are a couple steps where there are so many parts and lines that it gets confusing. I ended up using a red sharpie on the instruction page to mark every part that I applied so I wouldn't forget any. One important thing to note is that for the brown/green camo scheme, it suggested Mr. Color C361 and C369 with alternates of C22 and C23. I went with the alternates and they were much less contrasting than the primary colors would have been. I should have tested first instead of trusting that the would turn out looking good. As you can see, the contrast between the two is very low. It should look like a very dark green and medium tan. Image links are broken as you say, for the reasons given by Bloody Hedgehog no doubt. I had the same issue with my previous webhost. Overall the plane looks very nice with good construction, but if I may offer up an area for a very large improvement for a fairly small effort - your seams are very visible. On your next one, consider using a good modeling putty on the seams and sanding them smooth to make them invisible after painting. Example locations in your pictures are where the wings are glued to the fuselage, and on the 3rd photo there is a pretty obvious and open seam between the top and bottom of the wing-root. Great job overall though, will look good sitting on your shelf!
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Feb 5, 2017 18:18
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Baronjutter posted:I had a hellish time doing this gravelly dirty area, but I finally got it right. There's like 6 layers of stuff under there.... 
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Feb 5, 2017 18:33
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I just wanted to fill in this big hole with something, I can add more detail or something later. So I just added a piece of cardboard with some expansion joints caved in (too small lost most of them in painting) but it looked not so good. But then I added some weathering powders and it's better. Weathering fixes everything.  
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Feb 5, 2017 19:39
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Do you tag the models yourself or do you use decals/pre-done models?
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Feb 5, 2017 23:30
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The Locator posted:Overall the plane looks very nice with good construction, but if I may offer up an area for a very large improvement for a fairly small effort - your seams are very visible. On your next one, consider using a good modeling putty on the seams and sanding them smooth to make them invisible after painting. You're certainly right about the seams. I do have and use the Mr. Surfacer fillers as well as perfect plastic putty. I used to avoid filling some seams because sanding them would eliminate panel lines and rivets (I'm terrible at scribing), but with that perfect plastic putty that isn't an issue. My biggest problem in that department is a lack of attention to detail and a lack of patience. I move too fast and don't notice the seams until after priming or sometimes even after basecoating. At that point, I just say gently caress it and keep going. I start out strong and am very meticulous with the cockpit, but get burnt out by the final painting and just want to get it done with. About the images, if anybody has suggestions on getting a new host and transferring my domain name, please PM me. Yes, I know about imgur, but I like to have my own host.
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Feb 6, 2017 00:55
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SkunkDuster posted:About the images, if anybody has suggestions on getting a new host and transferring my domain name, please PM me. Yes, I know about imgur, but I like to have my own host. I use a goon host from SA Mart and I'm pretty happy with it - Lithium Hosting. All of the photo's here from my builds are hosted on my domain there. Even on the highest possible shared hosting option (for the storage space) it's stupidly cheap compared to my cheap dedicated server host I was on before. Here is the SA Mart thread - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2818800 I got the Buttertroll plan and paid for 3 years which makes it really cheap and includes free domain registration.
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Feb 6, 2017 01:57
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MOAR from the Nuremberg toy show. Airfix is doing a 1/72 Victor bomber, pretty cool. Also maybe a later version of the Avro Shackleton? Miniart: several Russian tank destoyers with some (maybe full) interiors.
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Feb 6, 2017 02:44
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This is the dumbest thing. I had bought a GP-9 locomotive for  at a train show in November, and it turns out it's ancient, which isn't really a problem, but it's also a super dopey design and the trucks barely move, and there is no room in it for me to shove a DCC decoder. I think I've learned my lesson to do a smidge of research first.
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Feb 6, 2017 02:59
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Nebakenezzer posted:MOAR from the Nuremberg toy show. Airfix is doing a 1/72 Victor bomber, pretty cool. Also maybe a later version of the Avro Shackleton? Miniart: several Russian tank destoyers with some (maybe full) interiors. The Shackleton stayed in service until 1991 so it's a good subject for a kit with lots and lots of minor variant details.
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Feb 6, 2017 05:21
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Hi thread, this was a long but interesting read. It's got me wanting to get back into painting after a very long absence. Some crazy good work in here. I'm thinking of cobbling together the Peacemaker from Fury Road, the chassis of which is apparently a Howe Ripsaw. Anyone know where I could find this or a similar kit in any scale?
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Feb 6, 2017 07:43
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Mr. Powers posted:Do you tag the models yourself or do you use decals/pre-done models? Just some cheap not great resolution inkjet printed graffiti I got off ebay.
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Feb 6, 2017 07:46
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Baronjutter posted:Just some cheap not great resolution inkjet printed graffiti I got off ebay. Just drop the property values in your HO scale neighborhood and it'll show up one night. I order inks from a graffiti supply company. The employees think it's incredibly funny I order their products for legitimate use. Whatever is in the marking inks is permanent like no other industrial ink I can purchase. (We identify diesel engine parts with them). Lizard Combatant posted:Hi thread, this was a long but interesting read. It's got me wanting to get back into painting after a very long absence. Some crazy good work in here. That'd be an awesome build. It's a Plymouth Valiant on top of a Ripsaw. All my thirty seconds of GIS can find is Lego technic builds. It'd be a challenge, but man, it'd look sweet.
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Feb 6, 2017 13:40
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Yeah I can't seem to find any scale kits. I'm not big on my track vehicles knowledge, is there anything else with a similar arrangement? Or close enough that I could modify?
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Feb 6, 2017 13:53
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does anyone have good information on what they made the 9th/10th doctor's sonic screwdriver out of
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Feb 6, 2017 17:30
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Arquinsiel posted:The Shackleton stayed in service until 1991 so it's a good subject for a kit with lots and lots of minor variant details. Yeah, I was looking at it again, and it's definitely the later version: big sensor dome, no guns.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:55
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muike posted:does anyone have good information on what they made the 9th/10th doctor's sonic screwdriver out of There's a guy in the Who thread in TVIV who works on design for the show but I can't remember his name right now. Probably have more luck there.
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Feb 6, 2017 18:17
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Thanks. Just saw someone from RPF made a bunch of models on shapeways but I'd rather use non shapeways parts when possible
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Feb 6, 2017 18:22
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Lizard Combatant posted:Yeah I can't seem to find any scale kits. I'm not big on my track vehicles knowledge, is there anything else with a similar arrangement? Or close enough that I could modify? First off, I've seen sources say the car part is a Plymouth Valiant. It's not. It's a Chrysler Valiant Charger, which was based on the chassis of the Chrysler Valiant, which started out as a rebadged Plymouth Valiant, which I think Is where the confusion comes from. Compare the cars side by side and it's pretty obvious. Only one of them has a fastback. As for the tank part, the ripsaw has a couple versions, so be careful with references not from the movie. Ignore anything that's not the one with six road wheels and three return rollers. That's the same numbers as a panzer III. In fact you could probably use panzer wheels, possibly enlarging the holes with a file, and get something reasonable. Honestly, if you get the wheel spacing, general proportions, and that brace on the outside of the wheels, you could probably just do whatever for the tube frame and have it look decent.
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Feb 6, 2017 18:58
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So guys, any plans for another crapkit group build? The 3-wheeled turd truck was pretty fun.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:45
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Nebakenezzer posted:MOAR from the Nuremberg toy show. Airfix is doing a 1/72 Victor bomber, pretty cool. Also maybe a later version of the Avro Shackleton? Miniart: several Russian tank destoyers with some (maybe full) interiors. The Shack is an AEW.2 a 1970s conversion of several MR.2 airframes (that Airfix did a kit of last(?) year) carried out as Shackleton was replaced in the MR role by Nimrod. It was intended as a stop gap measure so naturally served for about 20 years, while the RAF/MoD/British Aerospace tried to get the Nimrod AEW.3 to work. Good to see, have been fighting the urge to buy an MR.2 for a while. Really hoping they release a full or conversion kit for the Victor to make a K.2 (the B.2 kit is great, but my dad flew tankers!). Lobster God fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 22:15
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makka-setan posted:So guys, any plans for another crapkit group build? The 3-wheeled turd truck was pretty fun. I've shamefully not even started on the last one, because I went overboard on the planning. My "large scale" modelling output has totally stalled. I'd be up for doing something quick and stupid though.
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Feb 6, 2017 23:10
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Blue Footed Booby posted:First off, I've seen sources say the car part is a Plymouth Valiant. It's not. It's a Chrysler Valiant Charger, which was based on the chassis of the Chrysler Valiant, which started out as a rebadged Plymouth Valiant, which I think Is where the confusion comes from. Compare the cars side by side and it's pretty obvious. Only one of them has a fastback. Awesome, thanks! My next question is to do with scale. The Panzer III is only slightly too long and quite a bit wider (but that's not an issue if I'm kit bashing it), but I was thinking about getting the car in 1/32 and the tank in 1/35 for better wheel dimensions. Does that make sense? Also finding a non die-cast Valiant Charger may be a bit of a challenge, but I think at the very least, any Australian slotcar store worth its salt would have to have one. That might end up dictating the scale I go with. e: Ugh! All I can find is someone who does a resin Valiant Charger in 1/25. Why?! Lizard Combatant fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 23:55
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Lizard Combatant posted:Awesome, thanks! Man, I wish I saw this post before I started drinking. As you observed, the proportions on the pzkfw III are significantly different. I'm pretty sure it could be chopped into something that looks reasonable, but you might well end up basically scratch building everything but the wheels. There are people selling just wheels, though I have no idea if that would end up saving you money versus a cheapo tank kit and a couple styrene sheets, then just discarding/chopping the hull. There are plastic kits of the American charger, but even that I haven't been able to find in a plastic kit in a close-enough scale (I'm pretty confident 1/32 would be fine). Plastic would be much easier to deform to get the pounded to poo poo look of the one in the movie. gently caress these weirdo scales. 1:25 just isn't natural.  I think the car model will definitely dictate the scale.
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Feb 7, 2017 00:27
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Mr. Powers posted:This is the dumbest thing. I had bought a GP-9 locomotive for HO or N, and what manufacturer?
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Feb 7, 2017 00:58
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Man, I wish I saw this post before I started drinking. Looking at the 71 Dodge, the top half is pretty drat similar, especially once it's been modified. I honestly think the longer hood on the Dodge will make it easier to make the extention for the Peacemaker. Accuracy be dammed. Anyone recommend a cheap Panzer III? The wheels and track are the only parts I care about, but I think it'll be easier to get a full kit. e: Alternatively, I could just chuck a Falcon XB GT shell on top and make an Interpanzer of Interpeace-maker Lizard Combatant fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 01:22
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