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Dane posted:Wondering how I can strengthen that angled cut without making it look bulky or screwing up the stackability of it. The angled cut doesn't seem like it would be a problem to me. The dining room chair I am sitting in right now has basically the same approach to the back legs, and it's doing fine after 100 years of abuse. I mean, I wouldn't lean back in it either, but that's more out of concern some of the now creaky joinery. I guess if you are using something like pressure treated pine the back might be a little less stiff? If you wanted it to be stiffer, just thicken the width of the legs from 1-1/2" to 2".
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Feb 7, 2017 22:09
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Dane posted:Wondering how I can strengthen that angled cut without making it look bulky or screwing up the stackability of it. You want as much continuous grain running through the elbow as you can get. This is where crooked trees come in handy. Lay it out the wrong way and you'll have a short grain situation that will snap. The chair in her picture looks like that might have happened and was scarfed back together. Chairs can be tricky, many experienced woodworkers make a prototype.
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Feb 7, 2017 22:16
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Atticus_1354 posted:Some sort of drawbored mortise and tenon joint that will suck them together and allow for more gluing surface. soooo many ways for me to screw that up - especially when making 6 chairs. I'm really not very skilled and was hoping this could be a light and easy project for me to get my feet wet on. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Instead of using a 2x4, you could make a laminate out of 2-3 pieces of thinner material that have the same cut, but at a different angle on the grain. So wherever the grain is short on one board it's long on at least one other. That might work. It means a lot more cutting though, and I only have a jigsaw and a (somewhat lovely) skilsaw. But there would have to be a major difference in grain direction for it to make a difference though, right? Just alternating the direction on standard lumber won't get me much more than a 30degree difference, as far as I can figure out.
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Feb 7, 2017 23:02
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Dane posted:That might work. It means a lot more cutting though, and I only have a jigsaw and a (somewhat lovely) skilsaw. But there would have to be a major difference in grain direction for it to make a difference though, right? Just alternating the direction on standard lumber won't get me much more than a 30degree difference, as far as I can figure out. Honestly I'd say you should make one of those cuts in a 2x4, as described in the plans, then clamp it to something and see how much force it takes to break. That's, what, a 15-degree bend? I'm kind of surprised that it looks like the one in the photo broke, but like Wormil says, it does kind of look that way. Maybe she used lovely wood?  Anyway, these cuts would be a lot easier to make on a bandsaw than on a jigsaw (and I wouldn't recommend trying with a skilsaw due to the inside angle). If you know anyone that has a bandsaw, you should be able to bust them all out in under a half-hour; just bring in a pattern piece and your blanks, transfer the pattern to the blanks, and make your cuts.
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Feb 7, 2017 23:13
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Thanks so much for the input, folks. Much appreciated.
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Feb 7, 2017 23:29
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How do you guys go about ensuring you drill a hole perfectly square to the surface of something too big to drill on a drill press? Are those jigs that make handheld drill a sort of drill press worth the money, or can I make or buy a different jig the might get used more often or be cheaper?
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Feb 7, 2017 23:45
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Two try squares set at right angles to the hole
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Feb 7, 2017 23:50
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MetaJew posted:How do you guys go about ensuring you drill a hole perfectly square to the surface of something too big to drill on a drill press? You can build a jig: video, plans.
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Feb 8, 2017 00:15
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MetaJew posted:How do you guys go about ensuring you drill a hole perfectly square to the surface of something too big to drill on a drill press? They do make these things https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA but I can't speak to how well they work or which one to get.
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Feb 8, 2017 00:16
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Skippy Granola posted:Two try squares set at right angles to the hole This, or a wooden L that you have glued up and you stand it up and drill in the corner like so: 
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Feb 8, 2017 01:37
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A self-centering doweling jig can be great for doing dowel tenons (easy if not very stylish joinery), but it also can do square holes in the middle of large areas, simply by dint of being a flat, machined piece of metal with a guide hole in it. I mean, I wouldn't get the jig just to do this kind of job, but if you were on the fence about one, realize that it's not quite as single-purpose as it sounds.
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Feb 8, 2017 02:47
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Stultus Maximus posted:They do make these things These are really flimsy and cheaply made. I bought one, used it for a single job, then gave it to my Dad. If you have a drill press I would just take a piece of scrap and make a hole for your bit size, then use that as a guide. If you don't, do the same on a piece of scrap using a square and check that it's straight by dropping just the bit in there.
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Feb 8, 2017 20:52
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I got live edge walnut board the wife wants me to hang as shelves in the bathroom. Any ideas for a nice way to hang it that doesn't have huge supports? Sadly it's only 1/2 inch thick, so floating shelves likely won't work unless someone has an idea I haven't thought of.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:29
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keep it down up there! posted:I got live edge walnut board the wife wants me to hang as shelves in the bathroom. Any ideas for a nice way to hang it that doesn't have huge supports? Hang it from eye hooks drilled into the ceiling joists maybe? Could look quite elegant if you use a nice cord or corrosion-resistant chain.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:33
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keep it down up there! posted:I got live edge walnut board the wife wants me to hang as shelves in the bathroom. Any ideas for a nice way to hang it that doesn't have huge supports? Maybe something like this with 1/4 in round bar. https://youtu.be/cxnduhQDuMo
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Feb 8, 2017 21:35
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You can also hang it from chains attached to the wall. A third option would be to make the shelf supports out of wood to match the shelves. I did this for my bathroom, and then put a dowel between the supports to act as a towel rod.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:38
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Spazz posted:These are really flimsy and cheaply made. I bought one, used it for a single job, then gave it to my Dad. Agreed on this, but the main problem is the bit wobbling. If you have brad-point bits (so you can center them when you spin it up) it should let you drill reliably straight. They're still not great, mind you.
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Feb 8, 2017 22:24
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Hubis posted:Agreed on this, but the main problem is the bit wobbling. If you have brad-point bits (so you can center them when you spin it up) it should let you drill reliably straight. I usually drill pilot holes to mitigate this, or use an awl/mallet combo or center punch to give me a nice divot to work with. I bought this and it's been very handy for marking holes in wood, metal, and plastic.
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Feb 9, 2017 00:50
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If you don't have an awl/mallet, a light touch with a claw hammer on a nail does the job just fine too
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Feb 9, 2017 19:54
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cakesmith handyman posted:Oh man you guys should see the combination mitre/table saw abomination my local diy store sells, you'd have a fit.
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Feb 10, 2017 15:34
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That'd probably be good for doing wood floors.
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Feb 10, 2017 15:57
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Anybody have doubts that a side table/hall table could resist racking with wedged through-tenons in a 1 1/8" thick top with no apron rails? 34-36" legs, bridle joint at the bottoms.  Walnut slab top, 1 3/4" square ash legs. I'm considering putting in a shelf only about 8 inches down from the top. Housed/tounged in, so it will help resist racking. Also considering making the legs more along 2 1/4 along the width and 1 3/4" deep. That would definitely solve any racking problems but I don't love the proportions. e: with floating shelf http://i.imgur.com/eSpYK9V.jpg ee: aprons, also optionally only a rear apron. also lower shelf sort of fits the proportions better  Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 01:21
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I believe that without an apron or other structure it will not be very rigid and I really don't like the shelf. I would go with aprons but they don't have to boring, or solid.
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Feb 11, 2017 04:12
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Hypnolobster posted:Anybody have doubts that a side table/hall table could resist racking with wedged through-tenons in a 1 1/8" thick top with no apron rails? 34-36" legs, bridle joint at the bottoms. For what it's worth I kind of dig the look of the shelf but that's all aesthetics.
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Feb 11, 2017 07:09
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Hypnolobster posted:Anybody have doubts that a side table/hall table could resist racking with wedged through-tenons in a 1 1/8" thick top with no apron rails? 34-36" legs, bridle joint at the bottoms. I'd be nervous with it, frankly, plus it's ugly imo jimho. The 2nd version would be much stiffer. I'd like the lower shelf a bit larger for aesthetics, but I can't visualize how to build it offhand. A 3rd shelf and you're in art-deco design country (I love good art-deco) You could also taper the legs and top shelf and go for a Japanese look. That might be stunning.
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Feb 11, 2017 17:20
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Looking at it a 2nd time, you have 2 competing themes, rustic (through legs) meets 80's brass and glass console. If you went more industrial and floated the top instead of having through legs you could keep the overall structure light while improving rigidity.
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Feb 11, 2017 19:28
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wormil posted:Looking at it a 2nd time, you have 2 competing themes, rustic (through legs) meets 80's brass and glass console. If you went more industrial and floated the top instead of having through legs you could keep the overall structure light while improving rigidity. This is true. I only got the through tenon legs stuck in my head because I'm in roubo-building mode right now and it seemed interesting. e: there's always just doing this, which is also fine but less interesting  ee: that leads to a whole different world of somewhere leaning towards asian design eee: nyehhh.. 
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Feb 11, 2017 21:35
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What about staked? You'd get your through-tenon fix and it would have a bit more stability. Not sure how it would look without turned legs though. Also maybe it's too tall to stake? Disclaimer: I'm basing all this solely from pictures earlier in this thread.
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Feb 11, 2017 22:50
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Granite Octopus posted:What about staked? You'd get your through-tenon fix and it would have a bit more stability. Not sure how it would look without turned legs though. Also maybe it's too tall to stake? While I've done some staked stuff, I'm no expert. However the top looks a little thin for a staked mortise to be the only joint resisting racking forces.
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Feb 12, 2017 00:06
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Yeah, only 1 1/8" top for 33" worth of leg won't quite work. I think I'm just going to start cutting joinery and see how it goes instead of agonizing over it in sketchup and overthinking it.
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Feb 12, 2017 00:11
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How hot does a plane iron have to get before it loses temper or gets damaged? I've recently started trying hollow grinding on a (cheap and lovely) bench grinder and now I feel like the plane iron I ground gets chipped in no time flat. When grinding I only let it get warm to my fingers before I let it cool down for a few seconds. I'm 50 / 50 as to whether or not I'm just imagining things, and I might try to compare the ground blade to one that's been strictly done by hand.
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Feb 12, 2017 07:07
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Iirc the steel will discolour if it's over heated
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Feb 12, 2017 08:08
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The problem is that the very point of the edge absorbs the heat almost instantly, and can't transfer it to the rest of the iron quickly enough, so it could be hardening before the rest of the iron even starts to get warm. Short term fix: don't grind right up to the edge, leave a tiny sliver of unground metal right at the edge, and hone that away. Since it's hollow ground, it will take no time at all to hone that tiny spot. Long term: get a better grinding wheel on that grinder, that cuts cooler and therefore doesn't heat the metal up as quickly. (I've never used them, but I've heard good things about the Norton pink or white wheels.)
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Feb 12, 2017 15:04
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Depending on the steel, could be as low as 500F. Some steels like O1 can change temper instantly while others have to soak in heat for a long time.
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Feb 12, 2017 19:27
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I was using a fancy grinding wheel and going very slowly / gently, the problem seems to be that I let the grinder get to the edge of the blade. This led to nicks that took a while to get out by hand. Other than that, though I think I'm sold on hollow grinding the primary bevel and then finishing by hand, it makes holding the blade at the right angle dead easy.  In other news holdfasts are cool and good and so is that 90 degree board holder thing. It works much better than clamping a clamp to a clamp or whatever. Also the really lovely 3/4" bit worked with the Gramercy holdfasts, while the fancy bit that cut much smoother required me to rough up the outside with sandpaper.
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Feb 12, 2017 23:21
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I used the WoodOwl quick chipper today as practice for the small perpendicular guide GEMorris made (and then appended). Just going through a single 2x12 board was fine for the Gramercy hold fast; it didn't grab or anything, but I didn't have to put english on the drill to bore out the hole a bit more. How thick is your bench top? In other news, mortises are real hard.
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Feb 13, 2017 02:34
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Tres Burritos posted:In other news holdfasts are cool and good and so is that 90 degree board holder thing. It works much better than clamping a clamp to a clamp or whatever. Also the really lovely 3/4" bit worked with the Gramercy holdfasts, while the fancy bit that cut much smoother required me to rough up the outside with sandpaper. This was my experience as well, I just used a 3/4" spade bit from HF for these holes and the holdfasts have a great grip.
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Feb 13, 2017 03:57
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Phone posted:How thick is your bench top? 3 and some inches about. Also using a chisel to rough the inside of the holes worked pretty good.
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Feb 13, 2017 06:21
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MetaJew posted:How do you guys go about ensuring you drill a hole perfectly square to the surface of something too big to drill on a drill press? Drill chuck on back side of my radial arm saw. It's how I did this:
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Feb 13, 2017 07:32
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I don't understand, nor do I own a radial arm saw, but that looks cool.
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Feb 13, 2017 09:21
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