|
Mouse guards and candy are the way to go. It's not going to hurt anything and if the hive needs it, they'll really need it. And yeah, if the supers are empty, remove them as it'll help them out not having to cover a bunch of empty ground in terms of keeping out pests and keeping warm. With ten frame mediums, I'd go two boxes if the top isn't filled out with brood/stashed honey, but I really am guessing without being able to see it. And yeah, get another bottom or whatever you need for a second hive if you can. Like Tally was saying about swarm control (also it's really much easier with two hives than one if you can do it as you can transfer capped brood if you have to or even the hive if something goes real bad). Check with the locals since I don't know your climate, but you also can give them sugar water, but you're going to likely want it to be more than 1:1 based on weight given that it's going to be Winter soon. You can just put it in a bucket with some straw, rocks, marbles, anything to keep your bees from drowning themselves and let them go to work. Melicious posted:Sorry, yes, I just meant boxes. And only the three boxes, total. I had anticipated adding a fourth, but they would frequently ignore the bottom box. I just kept swapping them around anticipating they'd start using whatever was on top for honey storage, but no dice. My mentor seemed to think everything was fine, but again, he's been pretty MIA recently. This last check, all of the eggs were in the bottom box (surprise to me), but there was still larvae/capped brood throughout all 3. You might want to verify they didn't mean frames instead of whole boxes. But this is a weird time of year to worry about swarming tricks. Also, I kinda think I hate Leperflesh for clearly having much better weather conditions than me. I've had to let packages go overwinter to get that kind of production. That I grab random swarms from weird places and they're actively turning all the woods and farms into subdevelopments probably doesn't help.
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2016 05:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 15:56 |
|
|
Yeah california has a lot of zones of Mediterranean climate, and I'm in one of them. There's a reason we grow fuckloads of bee-pollinated agriculture out here.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2016 01:52
|
|
|
Question for northerners: I'm in Northeast Ohio, where everyone it talking about a potential nasty winter, and I'm looking at wrapping my hive for the winter. So far, most of what I've read is to use tar paper or using a pre-made wrap. The pre-made wraps look like a garbage bag filled with cheap insulation, and seem like if they ever get punctured, you're going to just end up with a big wet mess. Tar paper seems more appealing, but doesn't have much of an R value. I'm thinking about using some rigid foam insulation (like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Expanded-P...-875-ft/3365568) painted black, cut to the correct dimensions, and screwed into the outside sides of my hive. I figure I can even run a couple of furring strips to leave a little pocket of air (1/4 of an inch, maybe?) between the insulation and the hive wall so that any water that gets in can evaporate. I can use HVAC tape on the cuts/seams so that the bees can't burrow into it. Thoughts? Also, with so much concern about moisture, should I put a few small holes into my bottom board to serve as drainage, or will that just introduce new issues of water getting in from below.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2016 15:42
|
|
|
I've never been anywhere cold enough to have to wrap so others are going to give you better information, but yeah, I'd use rigid foam myself. I think that stuff you linked is what I'm thinking of, but the pink and green stuff definitely is. Just don't use that styrofoam stuff with the foil side as it will just fall apart. I'd just cut out pieces and tape them around the hive, using some twine to reinforce it. Be sure to put a mouseguard there or at least an entrance reducer. I use shims on top with candy in them and leave the holes unplugged to let out moisture (and to peek in to see if they need more food). Your local beekeepers group can give you better info as they're working in that environment. I'm in Nashville so I'm not the best person to help you with harsh Winter stuff.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2016 00:15
|
|
|
I really need to get around to making a decision about which type of hive to construct over the winter. There are a few hives I've seen in the area and they look to be mostly Langstroth so I am leaning in that direction. If they survive in those up here where it easily gets down to -20F, then it's probably the logical choice. None appear to be wrapped.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2016 18:13
|
|
|
I found this free online course: Honey Bees and Colony Strength EvaluationCourse Administrator posted:The objective in developing this course was to provide easily accessible information to improve the understanding of basic honey bee biology, recommended colony strength evaluation practices, and recognition of important diseases, pests, and parasites that impact honey bees. The course consists of individual modules that provide background information on honey bees as well as clear, consistent recommendations for apiary inspection. Individuals can take advantage of the training at their convenience. The modular approach requires short blocks of time for each section and the viewer can proceed at their own pace viewing modules in any order they wish. I'm a total beginner interested in establishing a hive in the spring, so I've gotten a lot out of the first two modules. I think the more advanced stuff will be great to come back to once I actually have bees in front of me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 17:06
|
|
|
A lot of beekeeper associations also tend to do classes during the winter since it's their downtime anyway, so you can also look for those. Nothing beats a local that you can ask to look at your stuff if you're not sure what's going on.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 18:52
|
|
|
Pulled the trigger on a top bar hive, the plans for it so I can make more in the future, and also plans for a "cathedral" hexigon topbar hive. Went with white pine for the one I ordered, and figure I can replicate insulating boards for next winter if need bee. https://www.beethinking.com/collections/top-bar-hives/products/top-bar-hive http://www.backyardhive.com/cathedral_hive_details_of_fully_assembled_hive/ Fog Tripper fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jan 1, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 20:27
|
|
|
Reading though this thread further, I see a few are from here in Utah. Any idea who might be the best place to get. starter pack of Carniorans? I know I butchered that name. We are up in the mountains and a more winter hardy bee might be a good investment.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 13:53
|
|
|
*pokes at the thread, with ear held against the side to determine if the colony is dead* *talks to himself* - Carnolians ordered and should be available end of April - Hive should arrive any day now - Wondering if bees wax is needed on top bars to start the bees off Fog Tripper fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Feb 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 19:58
|
|
|
Yay bees! My super strong but honey light colony is still kickin.' I've had several peeks inside to replace their candy board, which wasn't much of an issue since the weather here in Chicago has been insanely warm. Lots of 50 degree days, a ton of my perennials are already starting to peek through the soil 😑 Do you seasoned beeks find it particularly helpful to add another couple of pounds of bees to a surviving hive in the spring? We did have heavy loss with the early freeze and snow in November, but since it's my first year, it's hard to judge if it was more than would be expected. My remaining ladies seem quite happy and calm, chowing away at their candy.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2017 02:57
|
|
|
Sorry, have a five week old baby now so I've been not around as much.Melicious posted:Yay bees! If you can get some patties for your light hive, that will encourage brood production. That will usually work out better than adding a package that can possibly reject your queen. Just make sure to put in some hive beetle traps if you have any problems with beetles as the protein can attract them. I've been using the Mann Lake Ultra Bee if that matters, but really most pollen substitutes that mention protein should at least help. Any day above 55 you can check if it's sunny, just try to not cast a shadow over the front and wear your gear since they might be a bit fussy if it's that cold. Biggest Spring issue is to make sure they got food and make sure they don't swarm (which is also why I'd advise not getting more bees for the box if they're alright). Note that protein pollen substitute is not what you want to give them in the Fall as you don't want them cranking out brood and/or eating a lot and pooping in the hive as it can encourage sickness. Fog Tripper posted:*pokes at the thread, with ear held against the side to determine if the colony is dead* If it's above 55, take a peek. Also, yeah foundation will not hurt. They might just nip off bits of it, but they're reusing the wax elsewhere. So don't worry if there are random holes where a cell should be. I can't tell you much about top bars as I've never used them and everyone I know personally that has didn't have good results with them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2017 07:53
|
|
|
I am still weighing the pros and cons of putting up a beehive at the farm. Pros: Awesome, honey, bees, yay. Cons: Effort, lots of kids at the farm daycare and summercamp that we maybe don't want to expose to possible beestings.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 17:49
|
|
|
Suspect Bucket posted:I am still weighing the pros and cons of putting up a beehive at the farm. Pros: Awesome, honey, bees, yay. Cons: Effort, lots of kids at the farm daycare and summercamp that we maybe don't want to expose to possible beestings. Situated in the right place (and facing a good direction) there's no more risk of beestings than not having a hive.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 18:17
|
|
|
Also, get an (off-brand) epi-pen and keep it on site, just in case.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 18:33
|
|
|
I would love to put some hives up in the mountains on federal land. I know they are open range for cattle, but dunno how hives would work. Lots of meadows that would be awesome to take advantage of. Downside would be configuring placement of hives that would survive with the amount of snowfall up in the alpine region. I could conceivably snowshoe back to clear them every so often. Snowshoing at 8k+ elevation can be a real bitch though. Also there is the how to keep curious individuals away. Fog Tripper fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Feb 17, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 19:07
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Also, get an (off-brand) epi-pen and keep it on site, just in case. Yeah, I have a couple on hand for "guests". We had a person come in and discussion legal and medical issues at our last beekeeping association meet. Unfortunately, had to miss it because the whole having a new baby thing. I really wish I could tell you what to do about having hives somewhere public since I'd love to know that myself. All I can really tell you is that in my experience most people are terrified of bees and will keep their distance from hives if there's aware of what they are. There are premade signs that you can get that will alert folks and I paint all my gear bright yellow so it's visible.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 19:27
|
|
|
Did a check to see how my hives did over Winter. Had one of my queens apparently make it until a week or so ago. So I got two supersedure queen cells and figured I'd post a pic so folks could see what they look like. (Sorry, can't get the image to link correctly, so here's the url.) https://imgur.com/a/uiEua Sinister_Beekeeper fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Feb 17, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 23:36
|
|
|
TouchyMcFeely posted:Also, bees can be purchased in two ways. Either as a 3 pound box of bees I completely lost it at this part. Imagining myself in a minor car accident and breaking the "literal 3 pound box of bees" Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Did a check to see how my hives did over Winter. Had one of my queens apparently make it until a week or so ago. So I got two supersedure queen cells and figured I'd post a pic so folks could see what they look like. Is it common for queens to die in winter? Do you just buy a new queen then?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 02:06
|
|
|
Catberry posted:I completely lost it at this part. Imagining myself in a minor car accident and breaking the "literal 3 pound box of bees" Catberry posted:Is it common for queens to die in winter? Do you just buy a new queen then? No, it isn't. They made it through the winter until literally the (likely) last cold snap. It's rather frustrating. You can get new queens, but usually in a month or two from now, so I'm going to let it ride and hope it works itself out. Sinister_Beekeeper fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Feb 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 02:54
|
|
|
Sinister_Beekeeper posted:They sell nets that you can put around hives and boxes in case you have any problems. I just drive with my jacket on since I figure I could just zip up my hood if I really needed to. Usually bees are going to be mellow, but I've caught swarms and relocated some bees for folks and well, some of them are....less nice than normal hives. I've never made the connection between "bees" and "nice" Maybe I've just met too many wasps and "flying striped thing" became anathema. I have never been stung by a bee. Though I was once stung by a bumblebee that I was trying to move from my windshield to a bush before driving off. While googling I found this article. http://beekeepinglikeagirl.com/is-honey-vegan/ Apparently honey is sort of kind of vegan (if you have a good beekeeper). I wasn't looking for that information but it gives a nice insight into beekeeping. Catberry fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Feb 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 11:07
|
|
|
Keep in mind honeybees tend to be bred and most people don't breed them to be super aggressive (and others aren't allowed to because their wife will get mad at them). I almost always wear gloves simply because I don't like handling propolis, and will wear a veil depending on what I'm doing more to keep my honeys out of my ears and nose than any concern about stings. When it's hot, I might have a veil on and then gloves, but t shirt and shorts. I've never been stung working with known hives when it wasn't my fault (I wore really baggy stuff after a surgery and would get the occasional bee in the shirt, then sit on them). Swarms and relocated hives on the other hand, well, I have seen some mean ones. The worst was one in a tree infested with hive beetles and soon as I relocated them and they weren't literally being eaten, they mellowed right out. That comb on top of the frames in that picture in your article hurts my soul. Also, you do crush bees. It happens because they'll move right into the way as you're setting gear down. It sucks, but it really is unavoidable. As far as queens being replaced, most only make it 1-4 years. I had one hit 4 and all I got was some practice swarming (where they swarm, go really close to their hive, then go back). It was a big enough pain that I'm probably going to replace any that hit 3. But replacement is done to keep the hive viable and only weird people would try to see how old their queens can get. I do like that the author didn't mention that honeybees are an invasive species in North America. Sinister_Beekeeper fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Feb 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 22:35
|
|
|
Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Keep in mind honeybees tend to be bred and most people don't breed them to be super aggressive (and others aren't allowed to because their wife will get mad at them). I almost always wear gloves simply because I don't like handling propolis, and will wear a veil depending on what I'm doing more to keep my honeys out of my ears and nose than any concern about stings. When it's hot, I might have a veil on and then gloves, but t shirt and shorts. I've never been stung working with known hives when it wasn't my fault (I wore really baggy stuff after a surgery and would get the occasional bee in the shirt, then sit on them). Swarms and relocated hives on the other hand, well, I have seen some mean ones. The worst was one in a tree infested with hive beetles and soon as I relocated them and they weren't literally being eaten, they mellowed right out. This is all super interesting. I had never heard of hive beetles but they seem pretty nasty. Sinister_Beekeeper posted:That comb on top of the frames in that picture in your article hurts my soul. What's wrong with it? Sinister_Beekeeper posted:Also, you do crush bees. It happens because they'll move right into the way as you're setting gear down. It sucks, but it really is unavoidable. As far as queens being replaced, most only make it 1-4 years. I had one hit 4 and all I got was some practice swarming (where they swarm, go really close to their hive, then go back). It was a big enough pain that I'm probably going to replace any that hit 3. But replacement is done to keep the hive viable and only weird people would try to see how old their queens can get. How do you replace queens? Does the hive make a new one if the old one dies or do you just go to some store and buy a ready young queen? Sinister_Beekeeper posted:I do like that the author didn't mention that honeybees are an invasive species in North America. I never thought of this. Do they have any specific negative effect on the environment? I would assume that a lot of stuff they are used to pollinate are then plants not native?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 23:07
|
|
|
Catberry posted:What's wrong with it? It shouldn't be there at all. The beekeeper probably put the inner cover on upside down. https://honeybeesuite.com/strange-comb-in-strange-places/
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 00:19
|
|
|
Melicious posted:It shouldn't be there at all. The beekeeper probably put the inner cover on upside down. Ohh I see now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 00:34
|
|
|
Catberry posted:This is all super interesting. I had never heard of hive beetles but they seem pretty nasty. The swarm I gathered in that case was attacking people. They apparently went into a tree hollow that had a previous hive (there was already honeycomb drawn in it), but was also infested with beetles. Guess the queen died and they got stuck. Catberry posted:What's wrong with it? Catberry posted:How do you replace queens? Does the hive make a new one if the old one dies or do you just go to some store and buy a ready young queen? Catberry posted:I never thought of this. Do they have any specific negative effect on the environment? I would assume that a lot of stuff they are used to pollinate are then plants not native?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 02:48
|
|
|
It's super important that you take every precaution not to get stung, it's surprising how easy it is to trigger an allergic reaction from getting stung too much.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 04:06
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:It's super important that you take every precaution not to get stung, it's surprising how easy it is to trigger an allergic reaction from getting stung too much. Yeah, not trying to encourage folks to be flippant about that and sorry if it came off that way. I have hives in backyards though so I have to requeen when they're aggressive and I'm not personally wearing full gear with my known hives as I know they're mellow. If I'm dealing with unknown bees or someone else's stuff, I'm doing full gear.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 17:38
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:It's super important that you take every precaution not to get stung, it's surprising how easy it is to trigger an allergic reaction from getting stung too much. As I understand it, folks getting stung is a good thing over time. Builds up a tolerance and lets the bees teach you when you are loving up. Decided to switch gears and change my order from a kenyan top bar to warre. Less often maintenance, still top bar (albeit attached to sides with comb), smaller footprint. I have the plans for a kenyan and a super-duper hexagonal kenyan for future self-builds.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 18:44
|
|
|
Fog Tripper posted:As I understand it, folks getting stung is a good thing over time. Builds up a tolerance and lets the bees teach you when you are loving up. I think it can work either way, and randomly change which way it's working. It's still taking some chances that one doesn't need to be taking. I can only imagine what happens with the idiots that do the deliberate stings on the bridge of their noses because of some alternative medicine nonsense. It's awkward to explain, but bees definitely have a "we're getting mad" noise that they'll make too. So not moving fast and jerky, and not letting them be in your shadow tends to be all I really need to do with mine. But again, I also know my hives. I would be a lot more cautious around new hives or other folk's hives. But I've been stung less than ten times, and it was almost all due to baggy clothes that I was wearing post-surgery and bees getting in them, then stinging me when I was smushing them. So yeah, totally my dumb fault. I did however get a staph infection from one of those, so I'm not going to advocate getting stung for the fun of it. Also, you can get tetanus from bee/wasp stings.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 20:02
|
|
|
My wife and I have bith gotten bacterial infections from stings. Cellulitis is gross. Allergic reaction isn't the only risk, so please take reasonable precautions and try not to get stung.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 20:06
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:My wife and I have bith gotten bacterial infections from stings. Cellulitis is gross. Allergic reaction isn't the only risk, so please take reasonable precautions and try not to get stung. Oh absolutely. I got one of the higher-end jacket/hood combos and gloves. That said I may forgo the gloves at first and use them only during shuffling of boxes and such. If I haven't contracted the plague from the constant scratches from the pups who jump on/off of my lap, after they romp in the yard (their part-time bathroom), then I am confident to not get it with a deserved sting.  Also your username/post combo is top notch.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 22:48
|
|
|
Fog Tripper posted:As I understand it, folks getting stung is a good thing over time. Builds up a tolerance and lets the bees teach you when you are loving up. It rarely works this way, it's not worth the chance that you some day go into anaphylaxis from one too many stings.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 05:47
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 10:06
|
|
|
Fog Tripper posted:As I understand it, folks getting stung is a good thing over time. Builds up a tolerance and lets the bees teach you when you are loving up. Actually the opposite is true the more you get stung the more likely to become allergic. Don't get stung by bees if you can avoid it. Once you are sensitive to bee stings you can then try to desensitise you to bee stings by getting stung. Imagine you're playing Buckaroo but stead of plastic saddlebags it's Bee stings and instead of bucking it's anaphylaxis.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 10:12
|
|
|
Whatever happened to killer bees? Back in the 90s I saw TV shows detailing how they were sweeping up from central America and soon they would overrun the north. Wiping out all life and leave it a barren post-apocalyptic wasteland.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 11:44
|
|
|
Aramoro posted:Actually the opposite is true the more you get stung the more likely to become allergic. Don't get stung by bees if you can avoid it. n=1, but I'm now mostly taking care of my wife's hive because of this. We just got it last summer, and she's always been a bit sensitive to stings, but they went from welt the size of a quarter that went down in a coupe days" to "welt the size of a saucer that was around for a week" over the course of getting stung a 2-3 times over the summer. For whatever reason, stinging/biting bugs don't give me much of a reaction, but I still am newbie-level cautious because I'd like to keep it this way.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 14:44
|
|
|
stealie72 posted:n=1, but I'm now mostly taking care of my wife's hive because of this. We just got it last summer, and she's always been a bit sensitive to stings, but they went from welt the size of a quarter that went down in a coupe days" to "welt the size of a saucer that was around for a week" over the course of getting stung a 2-3 times over the summer. For whatever reason, stinging/biting bugs don't give me much of a reaction, but I still am newbie-level cautious because I'd like to keep it this way. I've been stung a bunch of times, you won't stop them all but just avoid unnecessary stings. At very least always use a veil as getting stung on the face is no joke.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 15:24
|
|
|
Anyone using Warre hives? How's honey production? (Not my primary motivation, just curious)
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 20:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 15:56 |
|
|
Catberry posted:Whatever happened to killer bees? They don't survive below freezing that well so they only are going so far North.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 22:25
|
|